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Put it in NEUTRAL, then jump the solenoid. That bypasses EVERYTHING, including the ignition switch. Put it in Neutral!!!!

rv7charlie, Another quick VOM test is to hook the positive lead to the positive battery post and the negative to the copper starter motor post. Not the solenoid--the motor post. The meter will read zero or very near, as there is no potential for current flow. Now introduce the load (hit the...

If you want a simpler example of the how and why of a relay, look no farther than the key switch on your car. Would you want to run the positive battery cable up thru the steering column, thru your key switch, then back down to the starter? No, the key switch is merely the trigger for a...

They work the same way a light bulb filament works, but in slow motion. When you supply 110 volts to a light bulb, there is an inrush of current thru the filament. There is unlimited amperage available, but as soon as the filament gets (white) hot, (micro-seconds) resistance builds and...

I do believe there are some models of TANK heaters that incorporate an internal thermostatic switch which will turn the element ON or OFF, but it doesn't regulate (vary) the current flow.

I tried to edit to add another paragraph and lost the whole thing! I wanted to add that the element position has more to do with hot water rising (element loop should not face down) and especially, the element cannot touch any metal engine parts. That's why there are dozens of element shapes-to...

I still doubt that. Procure a block heater and immerse it in a small container of water (a soup can, small cooking pan) and plug it in. Pretty sure it will boil the water, and boil it hard, until it evaporates enough water to expose some part of the element, then the element will burn out.

Egan, I'm not sure if your definition of a block heater is the same as mine, but what I know as a block heater has NO thermostat (nor any other method of interrupting the current) in it. It is a straight, direct circuit as soon as it's plugged in, and keeps on heating until unplugged. Same...

You can't just "measure the frost plug diameter" and "buy one that fits." There's several variations for each diameter, depending on the length, thickness, and angle of the element, which is determined by how your block was cast. Some elements even have a bend in them, to accommodate the...

I am the guy with the video of "Just Yank em" hydraulic couplers on my MF tractor. I looked on the OEM tips, but there was no information to be seen. The attached pic is of a tip that interchanges, looks like Pioneer 4010-3P.

To whoever was interested in gas welding steel, I've done it quite a bit back in the day. I worked for a gravel hauling company and I didn't have access to an arc welder or generator in the pits. Yes, I've used coat hanger for filler rod. As far as getting it clean, its a non-issue, because...

Since we are relaying old "war stories" I'll tell you my experience. i worked for a construction company as a mechanic. (1975?) One day, the foreman tells me the D8 (Caterpillar bulldozer) has a split in a steel hydraulic line. The line was at least 1" diameter, maybe 1 1/4. Easy place to get...

Yeah, I think that type is expensive. Usually I've seen them on skid steers. I've attempted to couple those types several times and never succeeded. Another guy will come along and do it easily. I believe those are what are called "flat face". To install the "just pull to unhook" couplers...

I wouldn't know about their cost, as they came standard on the tractor. I have bought extra male tips and they were not noticeably more expensive. And I suspect they are not much different than a "two-way collar" type. It's just that the collar is made to be the mounting point, simply...

Many thanks to grsthegreat for posting this. For some reason, I thought every later model Massey had these couplers. Guess I gotta get out more.....

Hey grs, if YOU had the video, could YOU post it to YouTube? I can email it to you....

Cycledude, yeah, I could do that. But the videos shows the action, and what moves where. I'll get a few pics tomorrow, fwiw.

If those couplers are in a place prone to rust and dust and junk getting in them, wrap them in a paper towel or rag, then secure the rag with wire or zip strap, then soak the rag with heavy oil. Keeps the junk out and keeps them moist with oil. Worked on the sander connections on a County...

I'd like to point out that grasshopper DID disassemble the detent part---several times, in fact and did clean things up. He just wasn't bold enough and experienced enough to go deep enough into it the first few times. After he got it cleaned up, grease WILL fix what's wrong in there. And the...

kwbretired, The couplers would disconnect automatically IF the hose had a straight pull. Alas, the way we are set up with elbows, the coupling will bind up from the side torque and won't release. But yes, on a straight pull, the hose just comes out of the body with no damage. i had a 1954...

Does anyone know if the forum will only accept pictures and not video? I have a good video of me pulling them apart and re-hooking them several times, but alas, I'm not smart enough to get them to post here. I click on the paper clip, go to my photo library and I can attach any of my still...

irving, the video by Mike? Did not show my style. On mine, the collar is anchored solidly and the hoses do the moving. If you want, send me a PM with your email address. I think I can attach that video I shot around noon demonstrating how mine work.

Yeah, if the collar must be slided back to unhook, you need to get that collar loose first. But with my style of couplers, that collar never moves. ALL the other stuff on either side of the collar shifts, but the collar is securely fastened to the bracket. It cannot move or turn. I sent you...

Grasshopper, can you ROTATE the knurled collars? If so, rotate and blow compressed air in there, to try to remove dirt, rust and junk. After the collar is rotating and clean as possible, try to rotate the elbow, to twist the two parts against each other.

No, wait. Don't cut anything just yet. I'm trying to show video I took about noon here in a Wisconsin, showing how to disconnect the couplers. As far as 5030, he has a LONG, LONG history of being disagreeable on this forum. Pay him no mind.

And grasshopper, I would bet that the 4 balls have some sort of cushion or real short spring, or some way to allow the 4 balls to retract and get out of the way when the nose of the spool try's to come thru to float. Then they re-extend into the groove to hold you in float. Try to push those 4...

OK, hope the video attaches. Notice the collar is anchored to the bracket, and ALL the other parts move. Exact opposite of older, 2-hand disconnects. NUTS! I can't get the video to show up when I click the paper clip to attach. But it IS in my photo library. A bunch of older pics show up...

Irvingj, Yup, that makes perfect sense! If those internal parts are not too badly rusted or damaged, he should be able to have a float function again. Could that C-clip have moved or got pushed out of position and ended up in the bottom of that cup? Or gotten broke and is jamming up the...

Yeah, you need to clean up all the rust and junk on those parts. Look inside the cap you're holding in picture 144201. Is is pitted or rough? It's possible you'll need a new cap, if that one can't be refurbished. Look into the bottom of that cap. Is there something in there preventing the...

And an observation on his "float" problem. All the spool valves I've seen with a float feature have that mechanism attached to the valve body on the opposite end of the spool from the handle, attached to the body by 4 small screws or bolts. If he can access that area, he should remove that...

Couple things while I wait for it to get daylight out--I can unhook under medium pressure, such as the empty loader lifted off the ground several inches or several feet. No problem. As a matter of fact, it unplugs even easier, as the extra pressure helps "push" the hose out of the coupler...

I'll try to shoot a short vid tomorrow AM. On my 1754, I don't touch the collar, merely yank on the hose and it unhooks. I can't be the only guy whose Quick Couplers unhook like that?

Again, the collar does not move!! It's anchored into the holder bracket, it can't move. What moves is the rear, female part of the coupler, inside the collar!! and those guts move when you pull on the hose. But you need to pull straight. If you grasp the hose by the elbow, it will bind and...

Have you tried just grasping the hose next to the elbow and GIVING IT A HARD PULL? I need to use 2 hands and try to keep the coupling straight as it comes out. Just give it a yank, the collar stays still, the innards of the rear part slide toward you. Just give it a straight pull!!!!

I have couplers that merely require you to grasp the hose and give a good yank. The female body of the coupler is fixed and the movement of the hose slides the sleeve toward you. When it gets "displaced" enough, it releases the hose. To reconnect, just push the male tip into the coupler, like...

There is a hand-pump-up device which you can use to pressurize the cooling system. Car and tractor dealerships almost certainly have one near you. Do you know a mechanic who could borrow one for an evening or a weekend? Gravity always functions consistently. Clean off the area, dry it...

If the starter is still out, mark the ring gear with crayon or spray paint. Try to bar the motor backwards (working through the starter hole) with a real stout screwdriver, tire iron or pry bar. Try to determine how much of a revolution it will rotate in either direction. If you get to even...

I have a concrete counterweight cast in the bottom half a 55 gallon barrel. I did cast a tongue into it, for pulling wagons and trailers or skidding trees. In the OPs original statement, he mentioned not having the luxury of welding. The nice thing about casting in concrete is you only need...

I've been in the woods since the late 50s with Farmall Hs and Case SCs. (Hint: don't turn sharp to the right). I also have owned a HST for the past several years. I agree 100 per cent with Hermio. While log skidding, to get to the clutch pedal in time to stop a rear "flip over" is going to be...

For the benefit of the next person who has similar AC symptoms, check back on my earlier post (7) where I mentioned that the compressor is controlled by several switches "in series." One of those switches is to prevent "over-pressure" which could blow out hoses, condensers or even damage the...

A technique I use is to back drag with the HEEL of the bucket. You can see exactly how much material is either accumulating or disappearing. I use the nose of the bucket as a depth gauge, to regulate how aggressive the heel cuts. When you get to the end of the stretch, lift the bucket and...

Heres an Ebay link to a wireless remote controller. I use one to control the chute deflector on my snowblower, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work to run a DC motor forward and reverse. You will need to select “controller only” and the price us under $20. https://www.ebay.com/itm/203590959493...

My view is that a hydraulic cylinder simply pushes 2 pins apart or pulls those 2 pins together, nothing more. If the cylinder rod buckles, it’s a sign that the rod is longer than it’s diameter supports, and/or that the extend pressure is excessive. My view is that the actual design of the...

My 1754 has a couple fuel filters behind that rear cover.

As a former truck heavy truck mechanic, I had used ether on dozens of truck tires UNTIL the tire route man told me what REALLY happens when someone gets killed. As mentioned earlier, when the ether cools, it contracts, so you gotta be fast with the air chuck. The problem gets acute when the...

DerpDerp, My loader stays on all winter when the front blower is mounted. I remove the forks or bucket, then lift the arms up til I can just walk under them. I have a hydraulic ball valve installed in the “raise” line so I lift the arms, close the valve, relieve the pressure then uncouple the 4...

So why was there money available for a huge CEO raise, but the company suddenly can’t afford it when labor wants the same? Seems if the CEO didn’t grab such a large chunk, the employees would be more satisfied with their share. It’s always the same story—sorry, business is down and you need...

I bought a 54 HP Massey instead of the 58 and every time I blow snow, I regret not spending a couple thousand more for the 58 HP. Also, if you see a lot of snow blowing in your future, get a cab, HST, and a FRONT MOUNTED blower. i guarantee you won’t regret those options. The only downside to...

Unless you’re sure it’s low, adding Freon doesn’t mean more or colder air. If you have good air flow from the ducts, check the compressor to see if the clutch is turning the center hub. The clutch is controlled by several pressure switches in series. If the compressor is indeed running, the...

I’m just guessing here, but could you watch the drain hose, from under the evaporator, for water drops? Mine (and most vehicles with AC) drip pretty heavily in muggy weather. If it drips good at first, then stops dripping, it might be icing/freezing up. Or when you shut down, put a catch-can...

Or replace the whole darn window!!

Heres another cheap easy check…Grab the fan blade (tractor ignition switch off) and try to turn it. If you can turnthe fan without turning the engine, the belt isn’t gripping enough. If the engine rolls over with the fan, consider the belt good. Now, in the shop or on an overcast day, slip a...

As far as using that huge tree for boards, you may be disappointed in the lumber. Around here (Wisconsin) Poplar is known for warping and twisting. Even if piled and stripped correctly and appearing to cure straight, the lumber will curl as you unpile it. It also is very susceptible to rot...

Unless it’s a multiple disc clutch, you don’t even need splines. So then its not a real difficult job to make one on a lathe. You just need the diameter of the pilot bearing and the minor diameter of the disc. I’ve even made them for twin disc setups by carefully tacking a piece of keystock...

I’m with spyderlk and LD. You’ll never get a usable hole with a drill bit. Never. Custom sized reamers are available and are the best solution, especially since you need to do several holes. Don’t wreck the hub, break the bit, or break your arm with a drill bit. If it were just one thin...

Shooterdon, Im in central Wisconsin, so we do get some snow, but not like in places like upstate NY or even north of us, by the Lake Superior snow belt. In my situation, we get a LOT of drifting and I have very few places to put snow, so to use a blade or bucket, I’d need to shove or carry it...

JWR, I have a 1/2 of a 55 gallon barrel full of cement on the 3point that I cast a hitch into, so I can pull trailers or wagons easily. I do have a backblade, but it sticks out to the sides and rear and is clumsy and in the way, and doesn’t couple up to a wagon too well, so usually the barrel...

JWR, I use all 4 FEL ports to control the blower, but when I unhook the couplers holding the loader arms up, there is a little back-pressure and the hose end will ooze oil and the arms will settle—-plus later I can’t re-connect the loader arm coupler with the pressure from the raised arms. I...

Robert, Nope, ideally you must spray until the dirt is pushed completely THRU the radiator, one direction or the other. Ya gotta be able to see the trouble light all the way thru the rows of tubes in the radiator. Not a 5 minute job. Best to remove any screens, oil coolers, AC condenser, etc...

I bought a brand new 54 HP Massey with cab (heater!) and HST transmission, belly PTO, as well as rear PTO, and 6 foot front mount, shaft driven blower. The subframe (heavy!) stays on year round, as do the loader arms. I do detach the forks/bucket when the blower is on. I keep the arms up...

I worked in a truck shop way back when. Put a trouble light in behind the radiator, by the fan blades. Best done indoors or on a cloudy day so the ambient light isn’t too bright. Then go to the front and look thru the radiator. If it’s clean, you’ll see lots of light thru the fins. In second...

It may interest you to know that oil designated “S” is for spark ignition engines. Oil labeled “C” is for compression ignition (Diesel) engines. Or maybe you knew that already.🙄

I rewired 2 Great Dane reefer trailers, nose box to tail lights, using nylon air brake tubing for conduit. It comes in sizes from 1/16 OD to 3/4” OD. Quarter inch is great for one wire, maybe 5/16 or 3/8 for 2-4 wires. Stuff is tough as all get out, and bends easily. Pretty sure you will be...

I’ve noticed that on my 1754 twice now. Both times, I’ve noticed a significant reduction of “growling” noise right after the scheduled change of hydraulic/hydrostatic fluid. The noise wasn’t constant--only when I asked the steering to do some work. It got really quiet after I replaced the...

I don’t know if this works on every filter, but on my car and pickup, as tight as I can get it with one hand, and usually can loosen it with two hands. Never a leak, so far, but only been doing this for 25 years or so. On my MF 1754, I do give the hydraulic/HST filter a little more than that...

…….With a metal detector……

When I was a truck mechanic, we punctured the very bottom of almost every oil filter and let it drip out. Truck oil filters are big and heavy and messy. Draining it helps take care of some of the messy. We made our own punches from a length of 1/2” rod, ground one end down to a sharp point...

Well, I bought a brand new 1972 Chevy Impala Custom Coupe in April of 1972, the week I got out of the Army. It got about 14 MPG. Today I have a 2017 Chevy Impala and it gets 29-30 MPG. If the 72 got 10,000 miles on a set of plugs, that was good. Ditto the points in the distributor. New cap...

Ben trim, In our area of Wisconsin, I’ve always seen premium gas labeled as , “ CONTAINS NO ETHANOL” posted right on the pump. Every station around here has that. I doubt I can even buy 93 Premium WITH ethanol anywhere around here. There are usually 2 lower octane grades (87 and 89) in the...

The post below was a belated attempt to explain why an ammeter can’t be wired like a voltmeter. ””Voltmeters connect the hot to a ground. Ammeters are wired “in series” so electricity flows in one terminal and out the other, like the meter in the gas pump. If you wire an ammeter to ground, the...

Ypu could view the ammeter as a 2-way water meter. When you start your tractor and use up some watts from the battery, the charging system should replace them back into the battery. The ammeter will show how many amps are flowing back to replenish what you used. After the battery is full, the...

Glad to help!! Thanks for coming back and reporting. Hopefully you can tighten the retaining bolt and KEEP it tight. Might not hurt the re-torque it in a couple weeks/hours.

My thought is first go under the tractor on a creeper (or cardboard) with a good light. A helper could engage and disengage the 4WD rod so you can see what moves and where. Block the wheels. I doubt if you need it running.

Yeah, I suspect that there is a lever somewhere down below that (let’s just say) should point to 9 AM (and rotates from 8 to 10 to engage and disengage) and it got flipped to 3PM, so it reversed the input shaft that it rotates. (assuming the push-pull rod is vertical) See if you can follow that...

I’m 71 years old now and bought a MF1754 HST, (54GP) with cab. Best $41000 I ever spent! This is 4WD and chains are not needed unless you gave some pretty steep terrain. The hydrostatic makes this whole thing work. When snow is light, mash the pedal down and fly. If you hit deeper snow, back...

Here’s a “Hole Saw” job I helped my buddy with. He cut out an old solid axle out of this clam trailer and wanted to replace it with a 5” round semi trailer rear axle. To get the holes aligned, we roughly torch cut them out, but not bigger than 5”. Then we stretched a string thru the 6 layers...

Get a device called a “Tapered Bridge Reamer” with a 1/2” shank. They work exceedingly well and leave a pretty nice finished hole. They come in various sizes, but you will need a 7/8”, and the smaller diameter might be in the 11/16” range, or thereabouts. Should cost less than $100, but in a...

Hope the sketch of the chipper shaft (above) shows up, but that diagram is EXACTLY the same arrangement any twin screw (18-wheeler, semi) has. The output of the front differential (tractor PTO) can be any reasonable angle, but the receiving joint of the rear diff (chipper) should point at the...

Altho not everyone has access to these, I used used grader blades as an anchor. Even the curved ones work fine. The wood posts were bolted thru the grader blade holes and into the 4X4. I used 5/8” bolts and nuts, not lags, and I can tighten them a bit every several years. If there is a lot...

I almost always punch a hole in the filter to drain out most of the oil. I made my own hole punch out of a piece of 1/2” rod and ground down one end to a sharp point. It’s about 14-16” long, so I can get the point onto the filter and still be able to hit it with a hammer. Then hold the punch...

Back to the OP: I've removed dozens of bolts like that, usually successfully, a couple, not. The most important step is getting your drill hole CENTERED! Getting this right will give you options down the road. Use a center punch. If you see the bit isn’t exactly centered, lean the drill...

First I would suspect a plugged up radiator. Like another poser suggested, put a bright light in behind the radiator, by the fan blades. Then look thru from the the front. You should see light. Another basic cause is fan belt slippage. At WIDE OPEN throttle, standing still, the fan should...

I fabricated a small U clip out of 3/16 rod. I bet a piece of welding rod wouid work. One leg of the C is about an inch long, and the other leg is maybe 3/8” long. The main part of the C is whatever dimension it takes to hold the collar in the unlocked position. Before I attempt to engage...

To the guy who used his PTO to pull the telescoping shaft apart: BE CAREFUL! Most PTO shafts are held into the tractor by a snap ring or other not-so-robust means. Don’t pull hard on this or you will have some strange, expensive-looking oily parts fully visible behind the tractor. Even the...

Be careful here of using just a voltmeter. While they are a great device, they are very sensitive. Thry will indicate full voltage thru a filament smaller than a hair. When you place a load on that filament, it may not supply any current. Better in this case, use a 12 volt test light, like a...

If you have a 12 volt test light, not a digital meter, hook it to the small actuator terminal on the starter solenoid. When you hit the key/starter, it should illuminate. If it doesn’t, good chance a safety or neutral switch isn’t satisfied. Then try this. Make SURE you are in neutral...

You might make a ”prop” to insert under the bucket, to hold the weight of the loader so you don’t need to vent out too much valuable oil. A 2X6 would probably be sufficient. You might be able to use your curl to take the pressure off of the lift cylinders by inserting said prop under bucket and...

And if masks are so ineffective and/or cause O2 or CO2 issues, be sure to let the surgeon who does your next hip or knee replacement, or who operates on your tumor, know that, so that the doctor, nurses, anesthesiologist and the housekeeper who mops the floor know that you dont want them to wear...

Here’s my observations: 1). The “effective“ rate of protection is said to be mol 94%. I’m not good in math, but I think that means for every 100 instances, 94 will be protected. Some simple math reveals that 6 of those 100 will NOT be protected. When we start talking about sub-1% infection...

I use a WION Smart switch. It plugs into an outlet like the timers one uses for Cmas lights. It’s controlled by my IPhone from where ever I’m at, or I can push a button on the device and turn it on or off right there. I also have another Wion device wired to a motorized ball valve on the air...

I fabricated a “boot” to slip over one tine of my forks. I welded an old ball to it, so I can drive up to a trailer, slip the ball into the receiver, lift and manuever the trailer into wherever I want it to go, then set it down, all from the seat. I used a 1 7/8 ball, which works fine for 2...

Make sure all quick-couplers are fully engaged. Give each one a firm pull or look carefully to see if one sticks out more than another.

As far as health care costs in retirement: pre-65 it is costly to buy your own insurance. Once you turn 65 (Medicare) you are home free. Medicare will deduct $130? from your monthly SS check. My supplement at age 71 is an additional $130 (more or less) and my drug plan (Part D) is $16-20 per...

I, too, have one of those 45 gallon blue plastic barrels, cut down to about 11-12”. I actually left material on each side to form handles, above the main vessel. I also back the tractor up on a couple 6”X6” blocks, then lift the front end up with the loader and wedge jack stands under the front...

I’m going on my fourth year with my 1754 Hydrostat and it just recently (couple weeks ago) began popping out of gear, so far, just out of Medium. It’s done it a half dozen times. it must have been reading your posts on the forum! Im wondering if there is wear or weakness on some detent...

Some more snowblower “anti-gouge” skid pictures.... Test,test. Try this..... Again, with this 6” by 74” wide skid, I can put the front-mounted blower on float and go across soft, wet grass, unfrozen gravel, without any problems. I even blew out 3/4 of a mile of woods trails, some places...

Test,test. Try this.....

I solved that problem by attaching this full width ski on my front mount blower. It is a piece of flat stock, 6 inches by 86 inches, with the front 1 1/2 inches bent up at 30 degrees. Total cost is less than $50. I thought I would need to remove it after I built up a layer of frozen snow, but...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]642073[/ The tractor wasnt laying on its side, and I dont know how the pics got rotated.

I know I’m supposed to, but I don’t remove the FEL on mine. I take off the bucket or forks and retract the SSQA plate tight to the loader arms. I installed a high pressure ball valve on the hose that would raise the loader, so I can hydraulically lock the loader in the “UP” position. The ball...