conduit recommendation

[brown91]

Hello everyone...newby here!

I am currently in the process of rewiring a 1972 MF 135 for my dad. The wiring for the lights over the rear fenders got ripped out by some brush he was pushing with the box blade. I wanted to come back with new wiring from the dash, but I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for the conduit to I should use. The issue I have is that there really isn't any good connection locations for any kind of conduit across the rear axel housing. Right now the best I can come up with is to use a flexible plastic or rubber conduit similar to "liquidtight" and maybe use zip ties (won't last long) or pipe clamps. I had thought about adding some sort of steel tube, but again, there doesn't appear to be any places to secure it. I just didn't want to run unprotected wire or a plastic wire loom, but I see that used a lot on older tractor wiring. I was wondering if anyone has any good solutions/suggestions or am I overthinking this?

Thanks.

 

[Phil Timmons]

Hello everyone...newby here!

I am currently in the process of rewiring a 1972 MF 135 for my dad. The wiring for the lights over the rear fenders got ripped out by some brush he was pushing with the box blade. I wanted to come back with new wiring from the dash, but I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for the conduit to I should use. The issue I have is that there really isn't any good connection locations for any kind of conduit across the rear axel housing. Right now the best I can come up with is to use a flexible plastic or rubber conduit similar to "liquidtight" and maybe use zip ties (won't last long) or pipe clamps. I had thought about adding some sort of steel tube, but again, there doesn't appear to be any places to secure it. I just didn't want to run unprotected wire or a plastic wire loom, but I see that used a lot on older tractor wiring. I was wondering if anyone has any good solutions/suggestions or am I overthinking this?

Thanks.

I like sealtite unless there is some heat or crush problems.

Yunno some sealtite has metal flex inside (tougher), and some is just the PVC outside (cheaper). If you use the metal-lined I would make sure you have some sort of bushing, (or tape wrap) .. . . or even the correct end-fitting (omg) to make sure the vibration does not cause the metal to wear into the wire insulation.

 

[brown91]

I like sealtite unless there is some heat or crush problems.

Yunno some sealtite has metal flex inside (tougher), and some is just the PVC outside (cheaper). If you use the metal-lined I would make sure you have some sort of bushing, (or tape wrap) .. . . or even the correct end-fitting (omg) to make sure the vibration does not cause the metal to wear into the wire insulation.

Thanks Phil. I will check into that!

 

[Cat385B]

1/2 PEX tubing. If you heat it slightly, you can form it.

 

[brown91]

1/2 PEX tubing. If you heat it slightly, you can form it.

Thanks Cat. I hadn't thought of that. I've got some out in the shop. I will take a look and see if I can make that work. I also have some 1/2" pvc conduit as well. I might try to heat bend that first since the gray color may match the paint a little better, although I know pex has more natural flexibility.

 

[4570Man]

I’ve used pex tube for vehicle conduit before. So far so good.

 

[3Ts]

I've read that PEX is not supposed to be exposed to the UV in sunlight for very long. Anyone have experiences with PEX exposed outdoors?

 

[skipmarcy]

Possibly some 5/16 or 3/8 fuel hose ? Some newer versions for fuel injected engines are quite stout but of course very flexible. Cable ties (good ones) or clamps to attach. Would take years to degrade enough to require replacement.

 

[gary49]

I've read that PEX is not supposed to be exposed to the UV in sunlight for very long. Anyone have experiences with PEX exposed outdoors?

Pex is terrible outside. Gets really brittle. PVC electrical conduit is much better and you can bend it with heat, as well.

 

[Midniteoyl]

PEX is not UV resistant.

You can use black flexible poly tubing/hose : Amazon.com : Raindrip 052010P 1/2-Inch-by-100-Foot Poly Hose, Black : Garden & Outdoor

With 1/2" Adel Clamps : Solarson Stainless Steel Cable Clamp 1/2 Inch(0.5 inch) 20 Pack, Pipe Clamp, Metal Clamp, Tube Clamp, Rubber Cushioned Insulated Clamp, Wire Cord Installation 12 mm - - Amazon.com

Obviously you can get different diameters as you need.

Tape/heatshrink or otherwise protect the wires at the entry/exits.

 

[pmsmechanic]

What I've done for trailer brakes and it would work here too is -40 electrical cord. You can get it in 2 or 3 wires. For fastening I'll drill a small blind hole into the cast (1/8" or 3/16") and use a "P" (Adel clamp as per above) clamp. The "P" clamp gets pop riveted into the blind hole and your done.

 

[OzarkChris]

Hello everyone...newby here!

I am currently in the process of rewiring a 1972 MF 135 for my dad. The wiring for the lights over the rear fenders got ripped out by some brush he was pushing with the box blade. I wanted to come back with new wiring from the dash, but I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for the conduit to I should use. The issue I have is that there really isn't any good connection locations for any kind of conduit across the rear axel housing. Right now the best I can come up with is to use a flexible plastic or rubber conduit similar to "liquidtight" and maybe use zip ties (won't last long) or pipe clamps. I had thought about adding some sort of steel tube, but again, there doesn't appear to be any places to secure it. I just didn't want to run unprotected wire or a plastic wire loom, but I see that used a lot on older tractor wiring. I was wondering if anyone has any good solutions/suggestions or am I overthinking this?

Thanks.

"use zip ties (won't last long)"

I use Stainless zip ties - usually find at places like Grizzly for cheap - they will probably outlast the bumpers .

 

[plowhog]

PVC electrical conduit is much better and you can bend it with heat

If you want to bend PVC conduit, first fill it with sand before you heat it. Then heat and bend it. Let it cool then remove or flush out the sand. The internal sand helps prevent a wall of the pvc from collapsing when you bend it.

 

[lpakiz]

I rewired 2 Great Dane reefer trailers, nose box to tail lights, using nylon air brake tubing for conduit. It comes in sizes from 1/16 OD to 3/4” OD.
Quarter inch is great for one wire, maybe 5/16 or 3/8 for 2-4 wires. Stuff is tough as all get out, and bends easily. Pretty sure you will be pleased if you use it.
One drawback is if you try to thread a wire for more than 6-8 feet—you will need a fish tape or piece of stiff wire to fish the wire thru. I threaded the wire thru the tube while it laid straight on the bench, then transferred/routed it thru the desired locations. Get some appropriate clamps, too, to anchor it where you want it.
Check on Ebay, or your local auto parts store might have it, a truck shop for sure.

 

[CoyPatton]

I rewired 2 Great Dane reefer trailers, nose box to tail lights, using nylon air brake tubing for conduit. It comes in sizes from 1/16 OD to 3/4” OD.
Quarter inch is great for one wire, maybe 5/16 or 3/8 for 2-4 wires. Stuff is tough as all get out, and bends easily. Pretty sure you will be pleased if you use it.
One drawback is if you try to thread a wire for more than 6-8 feet—you will need a fish tape or piece of stiff wire to fish the wire thru. I threaded the wire thru the tube while it laid straight on the bench, then transferred/routed it thru the desired locations. Get some appropriate clamps, too, to anchor it where you want it.
Check on Ebay, or your local auto parts store might have it, a truck shop for sure.

An old trick for pulling wires is to use a small strip (relative in size to your conduit size) of plastic (grocery bags work well cut to size) to a string linger than your conduit run. At one end secure a vaccuum near the conduit (conduit can be secured in place or prepped for wire to be pulled. Then feed the plastic piece from the other end of conduit. Once the string is inside the conduit from end to end, tape electric wires to the string in a stepped pattern, string and one one wire together then 1 inch down second wire, another inch 3rd wire and on.
Have someone to gentle feed the wires as another gentle pulls on string. With patience and care wires can be ran this way.

As for securing the conduit, careful routing should allow it to be placed in a protected path for much of the route. Where exposed to potential grabbing forces of brush/tree limbs or others, closely spaced clamping is the best way to prevent damage. There are lots of clamps available even more if willing to drill a hole for a screw or rivet.

 

[rScotty]

I rewired 2 Great Dane reefer trailers, nose box to tail lights, using nylon air brake tubing for conduit. It comes in sizes from 1/16 OD to 3/4” OD.
Quarter inch is great for one wire, maybe 5/16 or 3/8 for 2-4 wires. Stuff is tough as all get out, and bends easily. Pretty sure you will be pleased if you use it.
One drawback is if you try to thread a wire for more than 6-8 feet—you will need a fish tape or piece of stiff wire to fish the wire thru. I threaded the wire thru the tube while it laid straight on the bench, then transferred/routed it thru the desired locations. Get some appropriate clamps, too, to anchor it where you want it.
Check on Ebay, or your local auto parts store might have it, a truck shop for sure.

Yes, I know the nylon you are talking about. Good idea. I'll hope to remember & do my next project that way.

 

[brown91]

So I just wanted to give you guys an update...Last Saturday I went out to the shop and looked at using pex or pvc conduit, but I just couldn't come up with a great idea of how to anchor it to the tractor even if I got lucky and was able to create the bends. I also was concerned about the conduit termination connectors (esp. pex). I was a little concerned they would look odd for tractor wiring. So to make a short story long, I punked-out and went with 14-2 low voltage direct burial landscape wiring. It has thicker insulation and supposedly is weather and uv resistant. It looked similar to the direct burial romex, but with stranded wires and doesn't have separate insulation for each wire. It actually looked similar to a piece of the factory wiring that was left dangling, just a different color.

I attached it to the tractor axle housing with heavy duty zip ties (maybe 3/8" wide). The wire was also able to slide into a few of the remaining factory connectors bolted along the side of the transmission housing. The connectors appeared to be fairly thick sheet metal bands bent in the shape of a "U". Everything went fairly well and I was able to get all the lights back working. I just have serious concerns about how well it will perform against future brush. I think I will be doing this project again sometime in the future.

 

[brown91]

What I've done for trailer brakes and it would work here too is -40 electrical cord. You can get it in 2 or 3 wires. For fastening I'll drill a small blind hole into the cast (1/8" or 3/16") and use a "P" (Adel clamp as per above) clamp. The "P" clamp gets pop riveted into the blind hole and your done.

I really like this idea. I have never even tried to drill into cast before, would it be similar to drilling in mild steel? When you say 1/8" or 3/16", I am assuming you mean the depth of the hole, because you would probably need rivets with a fairly large diameter for the clamp. Am I understanding you correctly?

Thanks for the input.

 

[brown91]

I rewired 2 Great Dane reefer trailers, nose box to tail lights, using nylon air brake tubing for conduit. It comes in sizes from 1/16 OD to 3/4” OD.
Quarter inch is great for one wire, maybe 5/16 or 3/8 for 2-4 wires. Stuff is tough as all get out, and bends easily. Pretty sure you will be pleased if you use it.
One drawback is if you try to thread a wire for more than 6-8 feet—you will need a fish tape or piece of stiff wire to fish the wire thru. I threaded the wire thru the tube while it laid straight on the bench, then transferred/routed it thru the desired locations. Get some appropriate clamps, too, to anchor it where you want it.
Check on Ebay, or your local auto parts store might have it, a truck shop for sure.

That really sounds like a great idea. I wish I had read this sooner. Oh well, I'm sure I will be rewiring the rewiring in the near future. I definitely made a mental note about this material!

 

[brown91]

"use zip ties (won't last long)"

I use Stainless zip ties - usually find at places like Grizzly for cheap - they will probably outlast the bumpers .

Thanks Chis! I didn't even know such a product existed. I just did a quick search and see that my local harbor freight has some in stock. I know what I am getting with harbor freight, but I am thinking even a low grade stainless has to be better than plastic, do you agree?