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The thing about collar rings is there are so many names and so many companies that no longer exist.... It think its pretty much IGNORED..... Only thing I found different is one local welding supply paint all their bottles blue and stencil their name on them.... That tells me they are...

Alway found 1/2 drive SAE and Metric standard sets fill 99% of my use ( home/ranchette owner) .... Only variation is 36mm gland nut on VW flywheels... If you try piece parting its always going to cost you triple what a set will and you will always be missing the one size you really immediately...

Really like the grill/brush guard....

I think in your initial statement you nailed it.... Top hinge and check chains..... 50,000 dump trucks can't be wrong....

I'm of the school that it can be welded back on.... Either by you or a professional, depending on your welding skills....

Could be...

Look at valve body closely and see if it has a "CGA XXX" designation.... Certain valve body types have different configuration for different gasses..... Its a first clue to what type of gas may be in cylinder.... https://www.concoa.com/cgachart.html

Actually Lindie dropped the PRAXAIR name a while back and is now LINDIE.... At least at my dealer and their online website...

Not all of us have a "compressor plant" within reasonable range..... That is why we exchange....

I "own" three tanks, oxygen, acetylene and C25.... Do not have bill of sale for the oxy and acet, were purchases maybe 30 years ago and bill of sale (receipt) has disappeared same as dealer who sold them to me.... Possession is ownership.. C25 tank all I have is a copy of receipt whose corbon...

Convexed???....... What were the engineers thinking....

You probably don't need anything more the 2500# winch fro brush pulling, and attached to bucket is pretty good chance of bending or wracking lift arms....IF you are going to mount a winch do it rigidly to tractor frame as in post #5... If you do a lot of winching with electric winch you will...

IF you are getting a MMM (Mid Mount Mower) you are limited to 2 inch wheel spacers....

Try this link... And use "North America" https://www.agcopartsandservice.com/

Was just on it this morning.... Check your bookmarks....

Personally.... Bolt On Hooks, not questionable quality from Amazon.... https://www.boltonhooks.com/ Wheel spacers...Probably don't need to fill rear tires, does not add that much, BUT you do have BH for "ballast".... https://bro-tek.com/products/index.php?addon2[]=Wheel%20Spacers Factory...

Basically a mini steer is a lot of muscle in small package where you can not get your wheeled tractor with a FEL into.... What exact use where you contemplating with a mini excavator vs what a mini SS can do?....

Have not taken the plunge (yet)... Only thing holding me back is I only need it for a few weeks to a month removing fire/storm damaged trees but would also be better than having to pay a crew to come and do the work at the sum of $1800 a day... And my SUB compact tractor is not really BH...

Chinese excavator (cheap) .... Buy it, use it, sell it when no more work for it.... Anyway that is my thought process at the moment... The thing is the excavator in more mobile than a BH and can you BH lift 1.5 tons...

Had one single zerk in my FEL bucket that would not take grease... Period.... Pulled the pin and cleaned the channel cleaned and tested zerk, and all good, putting back to gether and pin would still not take grease.... Raised bucket and changed angle on buchet , it took grease.... Problem...

Had similar problem on one of my JD lawn tractors, if it has B&S engine the plastic "bendix" drive on starter may be "gone"....

You win for number of stitches.... I only got 6 with chainsaw incident....

I cut my logs into multiples of 16 inches (usually 4 feet) and use a set of FEL forks to move them to log deck where they are later cut and split to fireplace size .... With some crafty maneuvering I can load 4-6 logs and never have to leave tractor seat...

Since I don't have a BH, I went simple route... Box is 50Cal.

Some people say diesel fuel works...

My return line for my DUERR 22 ton (30+ year old made by MDT) has filter rated for 400PSI..... Don't have to wonder why....

I made a 2x2x1 foot box for my ballast (4 cubic feet) and concrete weigh about 150 pounds per cubic foot... So my ballast is about 600 pounds.... Maybe a little heavy , but it works for me.... NOT photoshopped live picture.... Dead Deere weighs in at 520 lbs according to JD documents...

I usually cut logs in multiples of 16 inches (actually 4 feet) and use forks to move them to "log deck" where they are later cut and split for fireplace size... For anything other than forks or a grapple, you need a swamper to "harness" logs to tractor....

What is AMP rating of your 110volt unit... I have Hobart Handler 140 and I can burn 1/4 inch steel and have good penetration... Technique and wire quality has a lot to do with it....

Actually sweet spot is using a alternator that is internally regulated and one can eliminate external regulator....

It's not a phase thing..... A 3 wire alternator usually has a B+ to battery (charge lead), and a lead to ALT light on dash and a 3rd lead to supply +12 volts to alternator to give it initial spike of 12 volts to start charge sequence.... A 2 wire alternator will have a lead from B+ to battery...

Don't think engine got any water in it, but HST filler was definitely under....

Get quality hydraulic return line and with proper barbed connector worm type hose clamps should be good.... THe hoses on my splitter wer 25 years old ans still good (I think) but in adding new engine and I decided to replace hoses and filter. Tha ias about 5 years ago, all is still good...

Glad I don't have to deal with snow and ice and frozen crap.....

Stay away from HF wire.....

Use primarily WIX on my tractor/mowers/vehicles because they are available OTC locally.... JUst can not x-ref the HST hydraulic filter from MF specs....

I use GMAW exclusively have 8 year old partial demo roll of flux core in drawer (just in case)....

And here is a list of/for confusion....

Most and best information I have ever heard is generator should be capable of 50% more power output that welder requires... Reason being that rotating mass of generator (rotor/armature) needs to be able to maintain inertia as generator bogs when there is high current flow when arc is first...

First rule of buying... After you purchase something stop looking....

Again.... https://www.stevenstractor.com/home/chain-limiter-kit.html

THis is a 10 year old posting you are responding to.... It already available in digital format.....Try Google search....

One of these... Don't have a shop/garage/barn...

If a little spooked by this, there are actually propane conversion carburetors available....

Might look here... But my 22 ton splitter uses 1/2 inch hoses on pressure and 3/4 bulk onreturn sides.... https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Hose-and-Hose-Assemblies/

Actually the best bolt on hooks are not make/model tractor specific, in comments that say fits "XXXXXX" tractor is just to grab buyers....... Want quality.....And aftermarket support? https://www.boltonhooks.com/ Got to be 10 threads (100 or so responses) about weld/bolt on hooks...Try...

Umm...Can we get back on track, first off TIG is only going to solve problems for a few welders with equipment and skill..... MIG is probably best for intermediate welding for most small farm and hobby farm applications.... Brazing is entry level for small repair usually for people with Oxy/Acet...

With .023 solid wire and C25 gas you can weld thin materials well... Technique is to do a tack weld about every inch or so along seam, then come back and add new tack weld next to existing one, do this repeatedly till you have full/complete weld along seam.... http://weldingtipsandtricks.com

Ummmm.... http://weldingtipsandtricks.com

This is why I don't loan out or borrow items.... BUT my father always said if you borrow something always be sure to return it in better condition than when you borrowed it or if you really broke it, replace it....

IF you are half way serious about oxy/acet brazing you really need serious torch set.... THE the big box store sets with 16 oz oxy and mapp gas are just enough to make you really frustrated..... Personally I would not go smaller than the style shown of graphic below..... To learn to braze...

Check to see if timer relay for shut off solenoid is working.... May be blown fuse, may be bad relay timer, may be bad solenoid.... Shutdown relay/timer supplies 12VDC to shut down solenoid for about 10 seconds when key goes to off position.... Information supplied is rather sketchy....

Appears to be bottom pivot mount for lift for rear implement....

Size of Brush Hog is not major concern, you can probably run up to 60 inch, but how you use/abuse it will be how you hurt tractor... Tractor Data dot com states you have full 24.5 HP at PTO (claimed)... General consensus is it take about 5 hp per foot of "mower" width...

Might be of more help with actual model number of your Bolens "tractor"...

Ummm... My GC1715 has a DL95 FEL.... Either one was optional on early 17xx

I always have a ballast box on my GC1715 and it always drops down (leaks down) and drags.... Solved issue by putting a set of check chains/limit chains on it to keep it up where it clears whatever, no more drop issues and I can completely ignore its there.... THough mine are DIY they are...

Also.... https://belmetric.com/metric-banjo-bolt-high-flow-transfer-cohline-series-8091-93/?

This may (or may not) help....

Bottom line here is shop all oxy/gas outlets locally and find plan that fits your needs....

Feet (') or inches (")....

At random intervals when I happen to think about it.... But IF I don't see any oil leaks it really does not seem to matter....

On my small MF all hydraulics and power steering start (with pump) at HST and returns to HST as the sump.... As for being to high, probably not a problem unless its puking out a vent or filler tube...

An oxygen-acetylene flame has a significantly higher temperature than an oxygen-propane flame. Here's a breakdown: Oxygen-Acetylene: Reaches temperatures around 3,100 degrees Celsius (5,610 degrees Fahrenheit). Oxygen-Propane: Reaches temperatures around 2,800 degrees Celsius (5,072 degrees...

Nope..... Purchased Cylinders.....Usually only have to refill/exchange once every 2-3 years so it makes no sense to lease cylinders and just have them just sit there... Only caveat is these are old prices by several years, new times new prices but was still cheaper for long term than lease.... I...

Only viable option for me was buy my cylinders.... Now have a 175CF C-25, a 80 CF Oxygen and a 60CU ft Acetylenes... No lease hassles/costs, just refill cost at exchange time... I found LINDE (old Praxair) best to deal with..... Walked in to Airgas looking for a 125CF, C-25 cylinder and they...

They make this stuff called "Loctite"....

Almost every LOG SPLITTER I have seen uses NPT on cylinder and control valve...... I find statement that people have never seen NPT fitting on hydraulics rather naive....

Sealants should only be used on tapered thread fittings (NPT and such), and straight fitting usually seal with a metal to metal flair contract or an "O" ring..... Teflon tape and I don't get along, I use a general purpose thread seal and that in its specification cover a long list of what it is...

I have a 10k winch on my JEEP and any load I am trying to pull that is to heavy it just slides my 4.5k JEEP....What you are trying to pull is relative to weight of puller...

VEVERSIUM is the new Chinesium....

Think I wiped mine down few years ago with rag and light oil (30W) .... Don't give it much though as it does not get much rust... But gets use for all sorts of things in shop....

This may be what you want.... https://parts.agcocorp.com/us/en/apbsearch/model I would verify if its correct seal by calling before ordering... https://www.lindstromequipment.com/other/pid261085/oil-seal/

THis post was edited to say use split bolts and rubber tape and plastic tape instead of wire nuts........

NEC requires splices to be in a box.... Just use split bolts and rubber tape then plastic tape....

IF tractor has a "open differential" in front axle this might be normal.....

I use 1/4 and 5/16 inch chains because I don't have anything big enough to put enough pull on chains to damage it.....

You either pay the piper or you cant dance....

Very first thing I would do is see if you can get sheared bolts out of spindle, repair may be easier than you think if you can .....

THE thing about working with chain it is infinitely adjustable for length, so you only need one, with cable you probably will need several of various lengths....And the one you really want, you left back at the shop....

Did you mean this?... https://www.gearhaul.com/ Mount it on rear of tractor....Could be you may have to fabricate bracketry.... My chain saw scabbard is mounted on my ballast weight, i seldom if ever remove ballast so it also become sort of a tool holder.... Also kind of expensive for just...

I do this often with my recovery winch on my Jeep after a questionable operation(pull) ....

What is it about "cheap" and "quality" being mutually exclusive don't you understand.....

Then of course you could always DIY something like "slots".... Just 2x2x1/4 inch angle iron... Slot is 5/16, hold 1/4 or 5/16 chain just fine...

I user the "peg" type... Works ok for me... Same style as kennyd is recommending...

Love my AGM also ..... But the best thing for battery life on any battery is to keep terminal scrupulous clean and use antioxidation "chemicals" to prevent corrosion....

I have a set of 50+ year old copper cables, probably as good as day they were made ( bought as top quality at the time) always stored in protective bag in utility storage of my prime vehicle..... As of late, last 10-15 years I find a "jump box" more to my liking and useage as it seems the...

As for dual voltage I think in concept something like the Hobart Handler 210MPV is a really good option for home and small farm and comes in at about the price of the Miller 142.... If I had as good foresight as my hindsight I would have gotten a dual voltage machine, but when I was looking...

Never heard of JOG, but then again I use a Hobart and that term is not in any instructions.... Wire is alway HOT when trigger pulled..... Wire feed tension setting should be in manual.... Without welders manual you are just spitting into the wind.....And be sure you have polarity correct for...

But why does my toaster require computer control.....

Think there was a single pointer version somewhere..... Kinda remember it.... BUT then I only use level indicator when bucket is "grounded"....

Always drop them to ground.....

Use one almost exclusively..... Made my own and its simply a rod from bucket through a tube and when rod is flush with end of tube, bucket is level... And don't laugh about a round peg in a square hole, it a scrap pile supply build... But really like the one mentioned above that...

My question now is how did you get that much water in axle, and how much is on other side....

Lot to be learned here.... He also has Youtube videos... https://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/

Aaaaah, but the front axle uses hydraulic 10w30 semi synthetic fluid.... AKA Permatrans 821XL....

Try a couple of heating element from electric water heater(s)... All that is required is to have elements suspended in water (not electrical connections) to absorb heat energy...

Your seal part number is 4265156m91 which is same part number as GC1705-20 and is a two piece seal....

Most of the work will just require simple tools (sockets-end wrenches) BUT you will need really good "Snap Ring" pliers to get lower section off and back on vertical shaft.. After several hours of frustration and round trip to autoparts and dropping $30 it only took 18 seconds to get snap ring...

Kind if liked the early version of this one.... https://books.google.com/books?id=B4UGKKYFUD4C&newbks=0&printsec=frontcover&hl=en&source=newbks_fb#v=onepage&q&f=false

IF and I say IF you want know more about what's in front axle.... Go look at this link..... Yeah I know it's for a GC23XX, BUT it is so very similar to a GC17XX it will scare you.....just go to link and scroll down to "May 2016 - Replace Axle Steering Spindle Oil Seal"...

Look as slide/connect collar and see if the in any manufactures name or part number....

Going to the expense of sleeving and it does not seal so you have water leaking into cylinder.....

If it's only into water jacket, I would venture to guess to tap threads into in and install a plug.... It's drilled all the way into a cylinder, it's pretty much dead.... IF drilled all the way into cylinder you "might" sleeve it but it would be rather ifie....

Looks a little dodgy to me... I can see losing pin and then lock assembly....

Geez.... Its a light bulb, might need to inset bulb in holder and twist lock it in place then plug in wiring.... But this is just a WAG (wild ass guess).... Pic of bulb could help....

Don't think over filling would be issue.... Under filling yeah!.... Need to see hydraulic fluids better?.... Add a color dye to it and when you see "color" in sight glass you have a minimal required fill.... https://www.greenpartstore.com/john-deere-hydraulic-oil-dye-mt3668.html

Any Lowes, Home Depot or ACE hardware should have ground bars....

IF you think your leak is from bad "O" ring, gently remove it and take it to quality auto parts and get into their "O" ring assortment and do stare and compare.... Found that my Safeway brand QD's on my MF GC1715 use standard sizes.... Also Surplus Center seems to be good source for hydraulic...

Avoid "clamp on".... I had a clamp on hitch on FEl and as I was moving trailer it came free and all I could do is watch as trailer ran into nephews Toyota..... What I am saying is only use solid mechanical connection (bolts and nuts or lock pins).... My personal choice now is trailer ball on...

Maybe this document will help....

Get better picture of label on back of alternator, it would seem by how its draws is how to connect alternator.... Two thing that bother me on back of alternator....

Just no.....

43 mile in 3-4 hours ... Means that you will have average of about 10-12 mile an hour .... That is miserable... Buy or rent trailer...... Seat time is horrible and think of all the road rage you will generate from people trying to commute down the road.....

Actually that is the way it is.... Its supported by the valves/spring in hydraulic unit body and just hangs out there, boot is for pretty...

Try one link at a a time.....

Probably....

IF battery needs a charge it sure is missing any surface resistance..... Never heard of such nonsense.....

As long as generator has capacity to handle the initial surge loads when you first strike arc there should be no problems.... HOBART recommends a generator with about 50% more watt ratings the what welder actually draws..... This keeps generator from bogging down every time you strike arc....

I'd stay with a fuel caddy of some sort, out there in Cali red diesel (off road) is about 50 cents a gallon cheaper than road fuel..... BUT I'm fueling a SCUT, and only burn maybe 20-25 gallons a year so two 5 gallon cans works for me....

Lots of variations out there...

Think you will find the parts you are looking for (part of joystick system) is not part of the DL95 loader but more for the main tractor hydraulics.... https://parts.agcocorp.com/us/en/apbsearch?q=masseyferguson/652327/l&name=MF+GC1723E+COMPACT+TRACTOR#

Knowledge is power, when was last time you cracked open an encyclopedia..

Same gears going forward and in reverse (mostly) see no different, except reverse gears **seem** lower....

I hose of the dust once in a while.... When I can't tell what color it is....

Just came up for me..... https://www.weldingsite.com/ BUT browser says it not "secure".... But don't have any real reason to go there..... Pretty DEAD!

Found used one with blown B&S engine.... Replaced engine with Predator 6.5 HP.... Probably cheaper then trying to make one....

Only tow hooks I have observed on vehicles seem to be on front of pick ups.... Sort of seems like he man bling for trucks....

According to Gemini AI... Where is CFM of a air compressor measured? CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) of an air compressor is typically measured at the outlet port of the compressor, where the compressed air exits the machine. This measurement indicates the volume of air delivered by the...

Then there is the time you are trying to be a nice guy and help the two local rednecks with a Ford Duely really stuck in a bog and his buddy is big 4WD Chevy.... The didn't have much and was needing help (would not take my 4WD Jeep into bog) but loaned then a 30 ft 5/16 chain..... First thing...

Prefer to pull from draw bar in rear, or tow/pull ring attached to of front chassis..... Use a "dynamic recovery strap" and not just "tow rope"....

Probably rusted or dirty seat tracks.... Have two JD riding mowers and a Massy Ferguson tractor and none of the seats move easily, but they do move "eventually"....May a little "dry" lube to loosen ...

Late to the party but this is why I stay away from "store brands" and stay with "national brands".....

For your future reference....

Think I would start over with all new deck not just patches..... Maybe 1/8 in. gauge minimal...

Really solid cast/forged steel vice, and you probably can't break it.... Vice of choice for blacksmiths...

Stay away from cast iron vices... The material is brittle, go with a cast steel vice....

Personally I think it has serious design flaws so it can be made on the cheap..... Get it operational and sell it off and real quality made one....

A awful lot of wiring on both terminals of disconnect switch, you probable will have a problem finding parasitic drain or "control" switch until you decipher what all the wiring is about.... From someone who does a bit of wiring there is a lot wrong with switch installation, looks like a...

The problem with the WIX 10285 is it's a 23 micron filter... AND its listed as for KUBOTA tractors..... MF shop manual states hydraulic filter for 17xx series is a 10 micron.... After many hour of searching it seems there is no direct replacement for the AGCO OEM 6258877M911 by any reputable...

A lot depends on what warehouse closest to you residens has product, occasionally overnight, or 5 days... Or provider is small online store selling through Amazon.... Also depends on if they have local PRIME van or its shipped via UPS, DHL, FEDEX or USPS and god forbid ONTRAC....

Was going to cost me $300-400 to put PB on my SCUT and then a thousand or more for splitter, found a uses splitter with blown engine for $200 and infested $350 for hoses and new engine.... Way ahead for stand alone splitter, and still have tractor available to move wood to and from splitter...

Ballast is great for keeping rear on ground when doing heavy lifting with FEL, didn't do much for CG changes other than reminder to keep FEL low whenever possible, however wheel spaced do do a lot to make tractor more stable on side loading (anti tip) on slopes...

Check end play with pulley torqued... You should have a minimum of about .005th (+/-)

Probably not normal.... Sounds like pulley is bottoming out on a bearing cap or pushing timing chain pulley against bearing cap or pulling crank laterally against its thrust bearing....

You may have over paid..... **Typical** online and not a dealer.... https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Adapters-Fittings/SAE-O-ring-to-NPT/SAE-Male-to-NPT-Female-Swivel---Straight/SAE-6-Male-x-1-2-NPT-Female-Swivel-Straight-6900-06-08-Adapter-9-6900-6-8.axd

Ever heard the phrase S*** happens.... Check blades and stump jumper for excessive out of balance..... Suggest lock washers, nylock nuts or Loctite threadlocker when putting it back together.... Also inspect area around where gearbox bolts down for cracks and or metal fatigue....

https://www.amazon.com/Vise-Grip-Locking-Wrench-Wire-Cutter/dp/B00004SBB8

Randy T is correct.... I had a leak on piston rod in valve of my 30 something year old wood splitter, thought it was where rod from control handle goes into valve body... Replaced "O" rings.... Still leaking....... After thorough clean up (brake clean) .. IT was discovered the threads were...

The concept is you modify offending implement once be happy with QH forever.....

Why would you try to do this when pin is stationary in boss.... Actually what you really want to do is clear grease passage in pin so end of ram is lubricated on pin....

Moved my lights on my MF GC series to inside of ROPS.... No more broken lights.... Found out my lights were expensive ($125 each) the hard way.... Think if I ever break them again I will go with aftermarket automotive/truck lights....

In this picture one cylinder is alway being pushed out (extended) and by the pivot the opposing cylinder is in compression forcing it into retract position.... It's all controlled by the valve assembly....

Maybe the fabrication of defensive shield is in order if you feel something is a threat by design.... On my MF GC 1715, the hydraulics are up and out of the way of any damage unless I hook a projecting log or stump, then it is my fault for no watching where I am going....

Get out welder and some steel and convert implements to CAT 1....

If its bent, its probably fractured if spewing fluid... Safe procedure would be just to replace it...

These guys seem to have best pricing..... When I wanted to change hoses on my log splitter, they had exactly what I needed and reasonable too.... https://www.surpluscenter.com/

Can't help you with the what BH to get, but for the hydraulics you need a "Power Beyond" kit designed for your tractor to run BH.... One of several "kits" out there.... https://www.boltonhooks.com/bm18005-john-deere-power-beyond/

Once keeper bolt is out nothing should be keeping pin from moving but rust.... Did you try running a small drill bit (under size- by hand) down pin to clear any old grease out of passage?

Have a MF GC 1715, (Sub compact) added 3 inch wheel spacers on rear and would do it again in a heartbeat, it made tractor so much more stable..... I only have about 1-2 acres of level ground on my 10 acre plot and the spacers were very much needed to make tractor more stable.... There is so...

Use the 300 yard of topsoil to fill the divots, then see what you need to do from there.... Also find that back dragging FEL in float helps with basic leveling (but not really precision)

My Wife... Been married to her for 50 years and every day is a adventure....

Then there is cost if you are going to use 200 feet of synthetic winch line there is cost... At maybe $1 to $2 a foot (+/-) its going to be a bit expensive, and probably special order...

A chain is a chain whether its on a electric or a gas saw, anti kickback (which is all I use) or not...... Quality of chain is everything, the way saw cuts is how sharp chain is..... MY STIHL chain maybe have 50 + hours on it and has been on the bench numerous times to be hand filed and made...

Need a washer, put on a washer, personally never seen need for one that is custom for use with clevis pin....

Didn't know that there was a self centering drill bit ... BUT if you lay down "E" track and use a "transfer center punch" through holes in track and use small bit for pilot hole so it does not drift off punch mark then go to desired size hole , you will probably have a better success rate...

Message on Facebook seems to indicate EA (Everything Attachments) may be back in business.....Please don't shoot the messenger.... https://www.facebook.com/groups/1232301603480909/?hoisted_section_header_type=recently_seen&multi_permalinks=8901094189934907

Think you would be better with floor mount 4 post "storage" lift.... Don't believe your roof trusses are designed to be "loaded" as you want to do....Also many advantages of having a"lift system" available for doing maintenance work....

Check out McMaster for "O" rings, if they don't have it, it probably does not exist.... https://www.mcmaster.com/products/o-rings/

The biggest thing I have ever tightened was a gland nut on a VW aircooled motor...300 ft-lbs (verified with torque wrench) ..... Bigger is always better but it can also be a problem of to much energy and to heavy when trying to operate.. For me something with about 350ft-lbs is conceivably...

Generally most 240 volt welders don't have a neutral, they have a L1 and L2 (120 volts on each Line) and usually a safety ground to chassis..... Some early welder bonded the neutral to chassis as a "Ground" so it may depend on what era in which welder was made as to how it was wired....

Maybe start here...

Look in phone book for steel sales..... Or go to town and drive around in industrial area and note the signage on buildings.... Unfortunately for me, "local" steel sales with "drops" is 70 miles from me and that is one way....

Drain tank and refill with "proper" fluid.....

First explain why you replaced "Main Switch"..... Do you have SHOP manual for your 23XX?... My shop manual for my GC17xx has chart like below.....IF your 23XX has similar switch that is similar to chart I would verify new switch is good and if proved good, you have problems elsewhere..... IF...

Please explain why you think engine shut off solenoid is working.... Solenoid on pump usually "operates" when key is turned off and is controlled by a timer so it stay OPERATED for a period of time (8-10 seconds) to stop fuel flow, no fuel, engine should not be running....

IF cigarette lighter goes on/off with key that would be simplest solution... There is another way by adding a relay to turn on/off camera power, and relay is controlled by taping the operate path of relay into any circuit the comes under key control.... The voltage of camera system is not really...

You can buy all the fancy grabbers and such you want...... I simply have a 1/4 inch chain (1200LBS proof) about 30 feet long (actually 2) and a couple of hooks on it, also a couple of clevises and a steel ring about 3 inches in diameter.... This is all simple stuff.....Probably $75 invested...

I personally would be spending so much time installing and removing MMM because most of my Tractor work requires agility the MMM would hinder.... Have 2 JB riders for all my mowing and the seem to me a better option from what I mow on my acreage.... You might get a decent rider for less then...

Because at one time the Delete feature went a way.... And I wanted it back so it was a standing message to system operator I wanted it.... Well the Delete feature came back, but I never got around to removing message in sig line... I suppose I should edit it....

THis one is a 5 - 1000lb Joshua Hendry Stamp mill located at the Mariposa Museum & History Center in Mariposa California (on highway 140 to Yosemite National Park) , there is also a 2 -1000lb stamp mill on same property.... Both mills are fully functional (but 5000lb mill is having bull wheel...

Not exactly a farm implement.....This is a 5000lb stamp mill for crushing gold ore, it has two 8 inch flat belts powering it...

Several solutions, RTV, or Liquid tape or whatever..... Main thing is to pull it away from line so it does not become a reoccurring problem....

Basically it's a "PTO Cap".... Might be pretty generic.... My MF is missing one also and it seems to be same style and bolting pattern as yours.... Pic below is the AGCO cover for my MF.... Also there is plastic/rubber ones that just slip on like a prophylactic....

This is my adaptation of 10 gallon ATV sprayer on back of JD riding mower.... Hose is about 50 ft....

Great idea... To bad sprayer manufacturers don't offer something....

Problem is typically with upper hook.... Distance from "U" shaped area in hook is to short to bolts securing it to frame..... A "extended" hook will usually solve that problem.... https://www.boltonhooks.com/imported-quick-hitch-accessories /

I did this as alternative to "hooks" and I had angle iron and bolts already available, just took a bit of fabrication....

The GC1705/10/15/20 series tractor does not have a 60 amp slow blow fuse, only fuse between alternator and 12 volt (battery terminal on starter solenoid) is a 40 amp slow blow and and runs from the "B" terminal on alternator through fuse #11 on fuse block (#29 in diagram) and to 12 Volt...

There is no 60 amp fuse......Only the 40 amp fuse #11 on the GC 1705/10/15/20 series tractor... Part number 29 in diagram.... IF you don't have 12Volts at "B" terminal of alternator you have open circuit on path, through fuse back to 12 Volt terminal on starter solenoid.... .........

I use a long extension tube (piece of steel brake line) on air compressor nozzle and blow out radiator from screen side....

Never quite understood using both, see a lot of "Facebook Plumbers" doing that.....

Only tapered threads (NPT) need sealants.... Tape or paste or fluid (locktite?) .. Straight threads do not "seal" they provide pressure to make a metal to metal contact seal (like JIC connection) or use some sort of gasket ("O" Ring?) to make seal..

I find it odd the tail wheel does not swivel 360°.... And rubberized canvas curtain looks kind of cheesie.... Personally I don't think it is designed very well, seems to be manufactured very cheaply.....

JD has a front bumper that I accidently found out that it wedged under lip of bucket when it was on back property pretending to be a dead deer.... NO, no photo shops here yes it was staged, but it's real....

Nope..... Just 500+ lbs on 3PH... Wheel weight or filled rear tires are just not enough.... JD weighs in at 520 lbs. according to manual...

Since turbos spin at extremely high RPM it requires really good bearings and good lube oil flow, has anybody check turbo drain line to see if there is adequate oil flow to bearing and out drain?

First thing to do would be to pull drain plugs and strain gear oil through something that will capture any metal filings to see if there is anything large enough to cause a danger to other gears and bearings.... Maybe strain through paper coffee filter or maybe paint strainer... It could be as...

For what its worth TUFF TORQ recommends 5W50 full synthetic oil in the K-46....

Maybe (or maybe not) something like this video may shed some light on procedures and specifications....