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General like to use split loom cover on exposed wiring and not have to worry about insulation type (use whatever is in wire drawer).... And also give wires a little protection....

THere is no reason to "T" into a hydraulic line unless you want full time monitoring, easy enough to just add gauge into a quick connect/disconnect and deadhead the flow into gauge for just enough time to get gauge reading..... And just a note the "primary system" relief valve is usually ahead...

Front axle design looks alot like what ISEKI uses on Massey Ferguson and other tractors.... Its pretty simple front end but the only real nasty is the "C" clip on the bottom of the vertical shaft.... Seal may be two piece, both on horizontal and vertical plane...

From your description of problem, it would appear there problem is between the start switch and solenoid/starter.... Sounds like either a short in wiring or start solenoid/starter failure... Best thing you can do is get wiring diagram and look for a short at any place where a failure may...

IF voltmeter says alternator is putting out about 14 Volts (+/-) the alternator is working.... Personally after checking alternator voltage I would have battery load tested and clean all the terminals at battery to bright and shiny (battery post & cables) and ground connection at frame...

Anybody what to show off their chainsaw scabbard attached to their tractor or 4x4.... Need some ideas....

IF style/shape/form factor does not match what is in coupler now, its probably not correct part.... JUst sort of when through this with my SCUT and found out generic "O" ring from auto parts store ($0.69 each) works just fine....

Final follow up... So far none of the hydraulic companies I tried to contact bothered to respond.... So today I got out a old dental pick and pulled "O" ring out of female side of coupler... Took it to local auto parts and low and behold it turnout it's a generic 9/16 in. I.D. by 3/4 in. O.D...

Final follow up... So far none of the hydraulic companies I tried to contact bothered to respond.... So today I got out a old dental pick and pulled "O" ring out of female side of coupler... Took it to local auto parts and low and behold it turnout it's a generic 9/16 in. I.D. by 3/4 in. O.D...

Might try worm type hose clamp as a "gripping point" for channel locks or such tool......

One thing to keep in mind with HST is engine RPM is everything...

My expierence is that you can probably have local hydraulic shop make your hoses for about half of what Massey dealer will charge for hose...

Part of your problem may be jack is starved of hydraulic oil.... With jack in side and pump horizontal it my not have enough oil to fill pump/cylinder.... IT may not be the fact you can not bent the bars, it may be a fact the jack can not exert its full 6 ton rating... Turn jack 90° so pump is...

Small SCUT (MF GC-1715) but has HST & 25HP, will dig holes and bury itself (in 4WD) before running out of power....

Checked there..... No luck.... Other than I can get the complete connector (male & female) for about $25 which is a lot better than the $100 AGCO want for the same thing under their catalog part number and lists it as wrong size to boot....... Have searched internet up and down and have gotten...

Learn to balance your load on trailer.... Personally I would not except anything that did not have axles near center of trailer bed....

My estimation looking at wiring diagram is that both neutral safety switch (22) and PTO switch (21) has to be closed circuit to operate the starter relay (23) which is not in diagram... Again its a guess from poorly done wiring diagram in owners manual/shop manual...

Does anybody know where I can acquire a Safeway S460-2 "O" ring kit for Safeway S40-2 hydraulic connector..... I have one that is oozing fluid and want to replace just the O ring.... So far Safeway who actually list the S460-2 "O" ring as a replacement part has not been responsive to my...

Maybe this will help.. #22 is I believe neutral safety switch... .

If you roll winch 90° counterclockwise the pto shaft angle is good and most of hardware is above PTO line...

That is fine, but first I have to know the size....

Sometimes it not that the item is not available, it can be you are using wrong search terminology.... Some times it is just finding the poipular "buzz word" phrase for item you are looking for.... Much of the time I am more inclined to do a "visual search" using Google Images than to do a text...

One out of three, one is a maybe... Waiting for answer to inquiry.... With my luck there is 1000 O ring sizes and the one I need is not stocked by local supplier..... And closest supplier is 39 miles away and I don't even have a name or address....Just thought I would try online order first....

Does anybody know where I can acquire a Safeway S460-2 "O" ring kit for Safeway S40-2 hydraulic connector..... I have one that is oozing fluid and want to replace just the O ring.... So far Safeway who actually list the S460-2 "O" ring as a replacement part has not been responsive to my...

With stick welding the rod size if the inner "stee' diameter, NOT the outer diameter of flux.... And ARC rods come on many different sizes for I believe 1/16 up to hughe.... And With MIG its more how you focus your heat/bead to get proper penetration, and no wire size though with bigger work...

IF its steel. build it up with any weld process and grind to conform with rest of wheel diameter.... Personally I would use MIG or Braze, but that is what I have available to me....

Import a orphan.... With no state side support I think it would be a money waster.....

Is your lift pump really functioning, that is pretty basic to supply fuel to injector pump.... Also is injector pump timed correctly?

Some new torch handles (mixers/bodies) they have arrestors built in now..... Must be a reason....

Arrestors....

Try clearing your web browser.... Never seen porno on this site....

Does it have hitch point on rear, if yes then it can pull....

Keep thinking I need to gather up materials and make one for my MF, but never quite get started....

Actually best solution would be new truck & trailer with load scale built in....

18 inch breaker bar, 6 inch extension and correct size deep socket..... I carry in my jeep because of deep set alloy wheels, but its good for any wheel/lug combination.... Chevy PU has 24 inch breaker bar, extension and metric/sae socket sets.... Also 4 way, but PU has better storage space and I...

My 2002 WranglerX with 4.0L and such has been a sweetheart...has 121,000 mile and only code it throws is when I don't get gas cap on tight....

If she reports all is good, you owe everyone that helped you $150 (each)....

HaD several SS working on my property by contractors... Had to use my SCUT and FEL and chain link drag to clean up after them...SS are hell on ground.... IF you have "tractors" just get a couple of implement's you might need if you don't have them... IF driveway is to small for your tractors...

What?????....... Can't you take the weight of one bale on baler scale and then just multiply that (average) weight by number of bales.....

The physical joystick does not move (locked/froze), or hydraulics don't do anything when you move joystick?

Get any generic belt of correct size, go to locale belt supplier and take your existing belt with you, once you find the length (inches/millimeter) then you should not have to pay outrageous dealer markup prices....

HUH?..... Your text question does not agree with the thread title!...

Well if its a round bail sure, but my familiarity is with a smaller rectangle bail.... Sorry I even posted.....

First thing is to figure out what turns on light, then work back from there... If it were me, I would pull one relay at at time to see if light goes out and then... Proceed from there....

Well weigh one bail on something as simple as bathroom scales and divide the weigh in to 2000 and it will give number of bails (approximate) bales to make a ton.... Quite simple really.... If one bale is 125 pounds, then 2000 ( a ton) divided by 125 is 16... That would be 16 bales...

HUH?..... What does TPS have to do with PTO.... Does the tractor in question even have TPS.... IF PTO light is on, troubleshoot PTO circuit.... I would bet there is a failed relay or a wiring short somewhere in the circuit.... First thing to do is get wiring diagram, don't start replacing parts...

This may or may not be a solution depending on what the intended use for winch operation is.... Been thinking about one along of these lines as a alternative to a PTO logging winch (not recovery) as I have some stuff to pull out (dead trees and brush) that is in about 200 feet beyond where...

Might just enquire here: https://bro-tek.com/products/index.php?&addon2[]=Wheel%20Spacers

Personally I don't see a bend, I see straight bars and a failed weld that allowed the square bar to shift/move....

Looks like cracked weld to me.... But I have a problem understanding the angular difference in the two tubes as it is much more than what even the bent square stock would compensate for... For me, I would just use large clamp and pull the two bars together and redo failed weld on round...

Why... Loader will either lift bale or it won't....

Picture?

MY thoughts is if tractor was run on diesel and the combustion forces of diesel may have over pressured the rod bearings, the bearing and crank may be toast... Not exactly what you wanted to hear.... Or again it was run low on oil and again rod bearings and crank may be toast.....

Its certainly not a one size fits all situation, but on my GC 1715 if I was lifting 500 pounds in FEL rear wheels came off the ground, my solution was to make a ballast box about 24x24x12 inches which comes out to 4 cubic feet, concrete weigh in at about 150 pounds per cubic foot, so weight is...

I clean and buff all my battery and cable terminals and wiring installations to a clean shiny state and coat with "NO-OX-ID A" and I don't have any oxidations problems, a good cleaning and application out lasts most of my batteries (the record one being 8 years).... Learned about this product as...

And in the end, remember the teeter-totter principal you learned in elementary school.... And as rear wheels come of ground you probably lose forward and backward motion and brakes....

Did you miss the word "battery" in thread title...

I really have doubts on that statement because it depend on size of winch, size of power to operate winch, how stuck you are or vehicle you are rescuing.... I have a Jeep that weighs in at 4500 pounds, with 10,000 (+/-) lb. pull winch in front and have to block all four wheels, and it took...

And don't run batteries down to where your computer drops out from low voltage.... You will either have to wait for battery to recover on its own or use jump start procedure to get going again....

Sure, you can do anything, but remember electric winches are for occasional "recovery" and not hourly use.... Electric winches are hungry and will kill a battery and alternator if your tractors electrical system is not up to the demands of what the winch needs to function with any success...

Personally I would weld on tabs and move pins outside box...Period .... No matter what you put in box for weight it will become a problem over time as you need to access/replace damaged pin as weigh settles into box....... I drilled through lower section of my ballast box (both walls), wedged...

Check voltage to glow plugs, and check glow plugs to see if they are shorted or open.....

Look into same concept to forced air ventilation that comes with grinding helmets/face shields.... Probably could adapt to welding helmet... Something on order of this... Also I ditched my stick for MIG and would never go back...

Actually measure the area where the (pipe/hose) threads are showing on coupler(s) and then get correct size jaws on clamp....

You should really look at multiple YouTube video's explaining good and bad of brands of oil filters.... There is a lot of disparity in the market place and brand name does not mean "everything"...

There is a bumper on front of JD mower and it is wedged under lip of bucket.... Not photoshopped .... Discovered I could wedge JD into bucket when it was on back property and quit running like a deer.... These later pictures on level ground and on controlled condition are to show that ballast...

It only took me something like 10 years or so to figure out I needed gun holder....

My new favorite tool is this simple MIG gun holder.... Got so tired when laying MIG gun down and reeling off a bunch of wire I finally had to make one.... Since there is no hardware/welding supply store locally that has one, yes I made it... Found magnet for $7.99 at local hardware and then a...

Keep in mind the further out the "weight" is in from FEL the more it effects the stability of tractor.... Its sort of Archimedes principle of "give me a lever and fulcrum and I can move the world".... The front axle is the fulcrum. The weight in FEL can be the lever or the ballast weight on...

Prefer all steel for real work..... But then with a 10,000 lb. winch you can break anything...

Generally any female QC will have manufacturer/part number embossed on the body... Lacking that consult one of many charts... Can't tell you about hose lengths but generally a ruler plus a bit of extra (inches) will do...

Ditto.....

Possibly.... check for a groind between alternator and light.... Otherwise it may be connected wrong at alternator.... Indicator (ALT LAMP) is about this simple unless the is a external alternator regulator involved...

Don't you mean a 1986 MF?....... Wired correctly?.... "Most" alternator systems produce a ground going to back to alt light when alternator not spinning up.... Light usually has 12V (+/-) on one side of light (from IGN switch), the alternator lead for light transitions from a ground condition...

Ummm.... Does a lug wrench fit the hold in pocket bolt?....

Guess you really failed your english courses in school and later the "introduction to the internet 101"....

IT just emphasizes what poor amount of information is available online.... Don't have a stake in it one way or other, ...Its only really believable if it underscores what we already know..... But beware its the future.....

OH... And not to be left out... """" What is specifications of GL rating for hydraulic fluids ChatGPT The GL rating for hydraulic fluids is not a standard or widely recognized term. However, you might be referring to the ISO viscosity grade or the AGMA (American Gear Manufacturers...

This is what "chatGPT" has to say... """ You What is break down of AW 46 hydraulic oil ChatGPT AW 46 hydraulic oil is a type of hydraulic fluid that falls under the ISO viscosity grade 46 classification. The "AW" in AW 46 stands for "anti-wear," indicating that this hydraulic oil is...

Same here.... When considering hydraulic fluid change in my MF and after a front axle seal change was trying to get some idea what fluids were a acceptable fluid and purchase locally... Out of frustration and lack of good information I went with the manufacturer's suggested fluid that was a...

Have Hobart Handler 140 and use only C25 and .030 wire ....

Ever heard of a "Bridge Reamer"...

Might try clearing hole in pin by taking small drill bit that will clear the threads and maybe hand twist it to get to bottom of drilling in pin, it may remove hardened grease in "channel" in pin....

I made a spare tire carrier by using some 2x2 inch steel tube and it plugs into a standard 2 inch receiver hitch welded (vertically) to trailer side rail...Have two receiver locations, one on front of trailer and one on side of trailer incase load overhangs front.... Also front receiver allows...

Rear Ballast is everything.... JD mower weighs #520 by the manual... Ballast weight #500(+)....

Make one... A section of bar stock with two pins welded in (or something similar)....

Lots of ways to build a forge.... It has evolved over the last 2000 years up to about 150 years ago when the design finally stopped evolving.... Suggest you do more research on forge design..... Someone mentioned a propane/gas forge but consider you can only heat what will fit inside froge...

This may be what you are looking for... Look in TofC for General information > Filters Guide..... https://parts.agcocorp.com/us/en/apbsearch?q=masseyferguson/652482/l&name=MF+1835E+COMPACT+TRACTOR#

It does not work that way..... The QH is a "standard" and QH that does not conform to standard is the problem..... Having several QH's just complicates the issues, modify the implement "once" to match the standard and move on.... Its easier to modify implement once than having to change out QH...

Nope, my 30 something year old one does not leak...

Not really.....Many implements of any particular "category" (1-2-3) were manufactured to a loose standard before a more exacting standard of the "quick hitch" evolved... The QH standard tagged implement(s) just means manufacturer is reconfigured the attachment it meet more exact standard....Sad...

More ballast weight added to BH....

Use quick hitch, modify non conforming implements once, be happy forever.....

This is my free standing vise.... Actually Blacksmith leg vise...

If you had stayed with "quick hitch" you would not be having this problem....

This is my weld table, measures 26x28 inches and 1/4 inch thick because that was what $20 got me..... Vise is mounted with two bolts and so far I have never had a need to remove it.... .

Aaaah... YES.... Have special screw in fuses (old school) for the well, have a spare pair in ZIP lock bag hanging from a nail next to fuse panel..... Rest of house and out buildings are circuit breakers....

Well I did the front axle seal replace on MF GC 1715 and it's pretty much as detailed in link below for a GC 2310... Yes it can be done by just removing lower section...And YES you need GOOD SET OF SNAP RING PLIERS otherwise dealing with snap ring is MISERABLE.... And when refilling front axle...

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2005,camry,3.3l+v6,1431008,cooling+system,radiator,2172

My only insulation need are hydrants scattered out through property, and I use a combination of foam insulation secured with tape and a section of waste PVC pipe slipped over that and a hole drilled in side for valve and topped with a cap.... Keeps sun and rodents from destroying insulation....

Use a BROWSER that supports "AD Blockers"..... I am usually on a PC and there is only one ad on "TractorByNet" I can't block so far.... But consider that most forum are supported by "click through" advertising for financial support, a process that needs to be abolished....

Though I graduated from fluxcore to solid wire and shield gas and I would never go back, I found this video helps a lot....

Same with mine....

Link below is pretty good break down of how to fix front axle seal, but it shows you all the parts and such... Yes it is for a 2310 but its identical to the 17XX series.... I presently am in need to replace seal (#16) in right wheel assembly so I found this and it pretty well describes the...

On sheet metal use .023 or .030 wire (solid wire with shield gas preferred) and do a tack weld every inch of so (do not try to run bead), when you have success in going length of weldment go back and put another tack weld next to one you already did, keep up the repeat process till you have a...

Yep...And local store always has odd assortment, either to big or to small and by chance if I do find the size I want, if I want 2 there is only one in the bin, if I want 4 then there is usually only 3 in bin.... The local TSC sucks.....Usually is out of stock specifically what I am looking...

Fellow up the road from me has a lift outside, it's on a cement slab and a pole barn roof and no sides.....

Pop one of the hubs off, I'll bet the numbers on the bearings are not Terramite, but a generic bearing that fit the Terramite specification.....

Have you tried here.... https://www.terramitereplacementparts.com/

First thing I did when I got my horizontal band saw (harbor freight) was to throw away junky plastic wheels for "real" wheels.... Yeah I know not best saw in the world but if you don't abuse it its ok for occasional use.... Wheels! https://thecasterguy.com/

As in other posts, ramps, jacks and jack stands.....

Plastic wheels...About a 3 year life span.....

I use 2,500 load capacity 10,000 burst web ratchet straps, on all four corners (Calif DMV/DOT) that give me 10,000 pounds hold and 40,000 burst energy (theoretically) to break tractor loose from trailer, and yes I have a 1,500 pound tractor and 500 pound (+) ballast weight,,, They are...

Maybe this will help.. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Adapters-Fittings/JIC-to-JIC/ And...

Do you really mean "Quick Attach" (Skid Steer Quick Attach - SSQA).... "Quick Disconnect" is phrase usually associated with hydraulic quick disconnects..

Not sure where you are getting 6000PSI.... Most systems top out about 2500PSI at most or maybe even less.....

The information you need to find the male counterpart of the QC is on the barrel of the female connector.... Part number and possible brand name if there will be the first clue.... Whatever the part number is ends in "K"...

Do riding lawn mowers count as "tractors"....

Then there is this.... (Edited for more direct lug nut, lug bolt, stud information) https://www.dormanproducts.com/flipbook/dorman/wheel-hardware/dor75803-1.pdf

3.470 or 88.138mm (+/- a foot)...

On my 1715 block/drain hose is right there on frame rail (plugged), how much mess can it make trying to use it? I usually don't bother changing out AF fluids in any vehicles yearly I just check them to be sure the are up to doing what's required...

Leave the BH on you will need it for ballast/traction in the snow....

Seems to me he does not understand silver solder is not just like plain old lead/acid solder... Love this stuff.... https://www.amazon.com/Wolverine-Silver-Brazing-15-Silvaloy/dp/B008AE4NBU?th=1

Was thinking this a good solution myself.... IF threads get a little flux in there, it can easily be cleaned with a "bottom" tap....

Generally auto start compressors have a "unloader" valve that releases any pressure in cylinder(s) when compressor reaches set pressure.... IF your unloader valve is leaking pressure back into cylinder due to faulty valve in unloader, yes its going to be very difficult for compressor to start...

Chev PU -8 Jeep -6 Honda -4 MF tractor -3 Big riding mower -2 Small riding mower -2 Walk behind Mower -1 Chain saws (3) -3 Leaf blower -1 Weed wacker -1 Generator -1 Pressure washer -1 Total 33 (I think)

Unless you test it you will always be "Chicken Little"

Well... Therei s the three point adapter(s) mentioned above, but that is only half the solution...

Set up a trial.... Find a tree or pole and set up a "fall" from maybe 2 or 3 feet above ground and see how it performs... You may be surprised... Any fall protection device that has any friction on rope going up is going to be a pain in the butt to use as you will be having to always work rope...

Yes with CABLE always use blanket or whatever "dampener"...but not necessary with chain.... CABLE will be like a "whipsaw" if it breaks or comes loose, but chain will just lose tension and drop like dead snake.... Chains do not store energy like a cable...

Pull from rear draw bar, not from bucket (FEL), not from box blade....

IF this hose operates bucket and boom, if you temporary field repairs fails, it may not be good for operator in bucket... Suggest replacing hose with certified replacement hose ...

I use Nitride gloves and just use fingers to scrape/rub off excessive grease as clean as I can get it, no need to be hospital room clean, just remove excess that is dirt trap....

ZIP tie on shaft cover behind bell(?)...

Sometimes if you just throw out the blade part numbers in a GOOGLE search, it will comeback with aftermarket replacements.... Found out this way that OREGON brand blades were better blades, better pricing on e-bay than the JD blades for my riding mowers that are gold plated....

Way ahead of you on that...

Its called a "dead man".... You can use a length of chain or tow strap and bury a spare tire or a log in the dirt and do somewhat of same thing.... The thing is with the anchor is since its pointed it tends to go deeper into soil as pull increases, the deeper it goes the more holding power...

Pull spindle apart and see if the is a number on bearing then go to local bearing supply or check out online and just buy the replacement bearings.... My JD mowers spindles are alone $35 each and I have 6 (on two mowers for $210) yet I can get 12 replacement bearing for like $5 each or $30...

There are replacement flashers that flash speed is controlled electronically and don't care if bulb(s) are incandescent or LED... Flasher speeds will be a constant if it has just 1 bulb and maybe up to 10 bulbs/LEDs...

So you want to go in a straight line forever?........ The front caster have to turn, so you can steer.... There is something here you don't understand about ZT mowers...

There are generally LED replacement for "standard" incandescent bulbs, you need to know what the "nomenclature" is for your incandescent bulbs and the find a cross reference for the LED bulb... Might start here... For just bulb replacement you might want to start in "Cars,Trucks, SUV's"...

Eartly VW (Beetle, Ghia, Thing) does not use wheel studs VW uses bolts, if there are stud in early VW hubs they are after market and are not a standard feature...

All good information BUT.... Is just single vehicle information using solid anchor point to pull against (self rescue) ... IF stuck tractor and pulling with 4WD or "other" rescue vehicle, both vehicles lack a solid anchor to pull from (assisted rescue) ..... Which vehicle moves first is how much...

L4200 ????

These work good, hardware, big box store item...

Probably get by with autoparts store hose as long as it is correct diameter, diesel fuel rated, and you don't put any kinks in it when installing..... It will probably be 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of a AGCO hose...

Are you talking (wheel) lug bolts.... If so adjacent bolts/studs should give you a clue.... IF you have lug nuts on threaded studs showing then studs are pressed into flange on axle, if you have bolt heads (no threads showing) then the lug bolts are threaded into flange on axle....

Unfortunately the factory service manual leave a lot to be desired..... This is about all it says for fuel system.... You may just have to bite the bullet and start tracing it from injector pump to the "fuel pump" to tank....

Really don't think it has anything to do with tires, think it has to do with the mud.... Crossed a soft bottom of a seasonal creek maybe 5 times, on last crossing tractor just sunk into bottom mud, tire type has little to do with situation the front axle is buried and up to chassis in really...

Tractor Supply is the Horror Fright of the tractor world....

I have a 4WD with 10,000lb pull winch just for those type of occasions....

Take bulb out and read what the rating of bulb is (probably in wattage) and the should be a number like "XY123" or what ever is on bulb... There is many cross reference charts that will have alphanumerical number of a incandescent bulb on one side of chart and the LED equivalent on other...

IF its a open system the 3PH is a captive pressure lifting the implement behind the valve, system pressure will be at pump pressure if its below system relief valve or at system pressure if pump is over driven and pump put pressure is above relief valve setting.... But this concept only works...

I would do one of two things.... Remove flange from tractor and grind (or machine if you have lathe or milling capabilities) off enough for "U" joint collar to fit, or grind off enough of "U" Joint collar to clear flange.... Personally I would cut back flange on tractor side if the is enough...

Already went over suspected areas with metal detector..... The rest of the 10 acres may take forever with magnet.... Easier to make new ring and I have extra shackles.... I do blacksmithing as a side hobby...

Simple test to see if power is getting to glow plug buss would be to just use simple test lamp, probe to buss, clip to ground and turn switch to either glow plug position or start if test light illuminates glow plug circuit is good, if not start tracing back with probe till you find voltage...

On a open center system you will never see real time pressure reading.... Only time pressure builds is when there is a restriction to flow..... You have to deadhead "something in system" to cause back pressure, hence where the system's pressure builder (restriction) causes relief valve to open...

First off don't use adjustable end wrench ( Crescent wrench) use a open end wrench...... Adjustable end wrenches tend to flex and loosen and round off the hex of the fitting.... Two thing the may help... Section of pipe (cheater) to extend length for more leverage on wrench to apply more...

Typically the first hydraulic control ( FEL?) will contain the pressure relief valve that controls system pressure... its also possible there might be a pressure relief/control valve at hydraulic pump output, its all tractor dependent ... Get a pressure gauge and short hose and QC that fits your...

Think this might mean something.... ALL things considered most of these post are just scaring newbie off...

By the time you spend a lot of money on rebar and concrete, a "culvert" would have been cheaper...

Are you talking TUFF-TORQ transaxle in a riding lawn mower?

Don't know why battery was so hard to find.... 1 of about 20 listings... https://www.nationwide-battery.com/deka/322nf.php

Check to see if there is a fuse off the battery side of starter solenoid and its good, it powers ignition switch and relays, starting circuits...

Structurally a drum is designed to keep what ever it is holding in, if you-try to put pressure on outside by using as a culvert, you will find it very weak and prone to almost immediate failure.... The corrugations on plastic and steel culverts are actually there for strength.....

Is there a battery group number on existing battery label https://www.batteryequivalents.com/bci-battery-group-size-chart.html

I wanted a ring to slide chains through and connect multiple shackles to, so I took a length of 1/2 steel rod and wrapped it (red hot) around a piece of 4 inch pipe and over lapped ends about a inch (+) and welded it.... Gave me "larger" point to connect multiple shackles, now if I could only...

Usually a set in owners manual, but legible is the question...

Might be time to push the envelope, fabrication wise....

Not sure what it is that you describe as a "D" ring, GOOGLE searches always seem to turn up "shackles".... Got picture of device you are looking for?... Inquiring mind wants to know... THE "D" rings the come up (other than shackle) all seem to be weld on closed loop, don't see how you are going...

Maybe a "generic" supplier.... Might also try using the word "sheave" in search string... https://www.usarollerchain.com/v-belt-pulleys-sheaves-s/5417.htm

Correct.... Red and Black (actually its a Black/Yellow did not notice Yellow stripe till later) and battery cable all on same post... Red and Black/Yellow one goes to fuse panel/main switch and one to alternator.... Both go through the slow blow fuses.... To keep it simple the size of the "ring...

Seems to me a really good hydraulic shop or "machine shop" could do a weld buildup in threaded area and then chuck it up in a lathe and turn it down to factory specs (diameter) and then cut new threads .... End process should look like it never ever had a problem.... But then it's all about the...

Yep... MF has been very good at keeping the hydraulic filter from being cross-referenced.... But a tiny little note in shop manual says its a 10 Micron filter... Oddly enough the is a filter that is the same specifications (dimensionally and threads) that is a WIX filter for Kubota, only...

Might want to see if you lower CAT2 3PH arms will draw in enough to match the width of a CAT1, if so then all you may need is bushings to fit QH, but I believe CAT1 QH uses same size pins as CAT 2... IF so you can probably stay with your CAT1 implements...

Correct !,... I did not fully read my notes and yes it is a RY....

IT is inside a corrugated protective shied and there is a rubber boot on end of shield in picture it is sort of hidden but be assured there is a main battery cable (+12volts) to top terminal of starter solenoid...

IF fuse blows putting "Main Switch" in glow plug position ( not start) and blows the fuse, yes there is a problem in glow plug circuit or with glow plug(s)

THERE SHOULd BE NO GROUND STRAP ON STARTER...... Starter motor is grounded by its attachment bolts to engine block..... The mage below is from my GC 1715, only difference is wire colors.... The black/yellow & red wires in image below is really red/white and white wires for your starter - One...

Possibly the malfunctioning 3rd function switch caused solenoids to operate irrationally and there for block the hydraulic flow to rear and diverted flow to "tank"... As generally 3PH is last hydraulic operated function on most tractors....

Hmmm..... Might be candidate for dumbest statement of the year.....

Check the female coupler, it will probably have a manufactures' brand name and model number... . OR...

The "enter" key always energises a correct brain response....

I cut to standard 16 inch fire place size so my 24 inch stroke splitter suffices...

I might look at... https://www.hobartwelders.com/equipment/welders/mig-gmaw/handler-210mvp-mig-welder-m00229 Or maybe... https://www.hobartwelders.com/equipment/welders/multiprocess/multi-handler-200-m30242

The filter number is for kubota with 3/4X16 thread.. Not sure if it would fit on you "Champion"....Owners manual page 29 gives you part numbers for hydraulic filters.... https://www.championpowerequipment.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/100330-1-om-english.pdf Here is spec for WiX 51361...

Maybe if fuse only blows when start switch (key) is moved into "start" position....

Here is blowup of wiring diagram.... And it shows the 40 amp fuse supplying the tractors "Electrical System".... And by looking at diagram, I would not just suspect a problem with starter/solenoid circuit but also possibly glow plug circuit... A possible diagnostic test would be to locate and...

Saw that diagram before, and it not really conclusive because if does not show source of wire off left side of diagram, BUT the way it is wired in and also parallel connection to fuse panel I would suspect it is a 12 VOLT source for "electrical system' power directly connect to battery via...

But what post on solenoid?.... The lead that activates solenoid or from same post on solenoid the main (+) battery cable connects to?

There seems to be a lot of misconceptions where the fuse is located.... Anybody have a wiring diagram (like from owners manual) showing where fuse is actually located in circuit...

Actually it was about at the one minute mark I realized he was clueless... the 12 second comment was a miss type on my part....

The difference in quality will be the name on fitting (and country of origin).... Tractor Supply and Amazon, either one (or both) may not be best quality or best price.... https://shopping.google.com/?pli=1

Only took me to the 1 minute mark to understand he does not know what he is doing.....

Not exactly sure how often I grease. But I do do it when I think about it.... That being said for me, go with what you tractor manual says.... If you have a fitting/pin that stops taking grease, stop right there, and pull pin and check it for clog or whatever.... I recently had one that would...

Only finds I have found on my property was beer cans, previous owner was a drinker I would guess....

Here it the QH standard for all CAT "X" (1-2-3) hitches... And as a side note I have a SCUT and most CAT 1 implements seem just a little to big/heavy, but the CAT 0 seem just a bit to much of a light weight (CAT 0 seem primarily for ATV'S)...

I always thought it was a ancient sailing knot on the end of a light line for heaving to someone on another ship or boat or dock and the light line was used to pull heavier line (hauser) across for whatever reason..... The "original" monkey fist knot actually had a weight inside the knot...

On my property its still 98% chain and maybe 2% "other".... Only real application for ratchet straps for me is as tie down of a vehicle (tractor/show car) on car carrier trailer...