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YES.... It comes in different gauges and different size spools..... Should have also mentioned that when I did inital tie wire spot..... Old age and mental fog is my excuse and I am standing buy it....

Electricians/linesman pliers works pretty well...

For what it may be worth..... This is for GC 17XX series which seems to be about same as GC24xx series.... Not mention of spring in my manual other than brake parts diagram shows it does exist....

Some information to help you select and apply different types of electrodes.... https://www.weldingandndt.com/welding-electrodes-understanding-the-electrode-symbols/

And its about a 100 year supply....

"Mechanics Wire" or "Tie Wire" for rebar securing.... Check Big Box, Hardware, Tractor Supply, Local Auto parts.....Similar to: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Weyerhaeuser-400-ft-16-5-Gauge-Rebar-Tie-Wire-05337/202094311

Odd that I find the "use of left pedal wrong", on my GC 1715 left pedal is "Brake Pedal" (by owners manual) and I use it as a brake..... True when off HST pedal tractor tends to slow and eventually stop, but using the brake pedal is more positive and probably intended to be that way....

Might look at it by design/style/form factor rather than part number...

Have a MF GC 1715, 25 HP SCUT and was wondering if a 54 or 60 inch scraper (CAT 1) would be to big for this tractor?.... The scraper with angle and tilt seem more appropriate for the work i want to do (specially tilt), but am wondering if these implement are just plain to big.... Anybody...

I like stunblinhorses idea but make it a telescoping mount....

Contemplating pretty much same thing for my MF GC 1715.....

Dittos in Sierra foothills and all up and down the San Joaquin Valley ....

Maybe some help here... https://www.kawasaki-engines.eu/en/support/technical-information/technical-downloads/?f_series=FD&f_model=FD620D

IS this your splitter? https://logsplitterplans.com/manuals/huskee/huskee-log-splitter-22-ton.pdf Just a FYI..... I purchases used a 22 TON DURR (actually manufactured by MTD) with blown B&S 5 hp motor... Picked up same form factor HF Predator 6.5 HP motor for less than parts to repair...

Got tractor stuck in soft/mud bog.... Had to use Jeep and winch to rescue.... Hope the rains stop soon, don't need new zip code in middle of Pacific Ocean...

My AD helmet originally can with "welded" and sealed in batteries.... After it died I contacted helmet manufacturer (Metalman) and they "very graciously" shared the cost of a replacement AD unit with one that uses a pair of AAA batteries..... My major problem though is not with any AD units...

Check with "property rights" attorney you may have more permissions/authority to do repair work on easement than you think, and also you might be able to force other property owner to share in costs..... I also have a 40 feet wide 300 feet long easement across my property to 5 acre property...

Contact Oregon.... IF they can supply the correct chain, they can probably tell you their correct part number for replace bar for saw..... They were able to help me find a obscure chain for little Homelite saw that is about a millions years old...

Wires does not degrade over time..... BUT surface rust does make it a problem.... Keep it clean and dry and it should be good forever.... Flux core may be different if it gets damp it may cause flux to corroder (proper phrase?) from inside out ....

New to forums? Your message may get better responses if you actually asked question in message area instead of trying to put it all into message title box...

WHAT is FATWOOD?

Plain old newspaper wadded up and small kindling wood..... Out of desperation propane torch....

Aerial view sort of shows you didn't pay attention to creek channel over the years and allowed it to dogleg down the road instead of yearly maintenance to keep it where you want it... Water is like electricity it takes path of least resistance.... A little creative tractor work and some layers...

Sure just drag it around by the whip... Cart serves more than the purpose of moving welder, it can also hold tank, a place to hang helmet, box or drawer to hold spare wire or MIG pliers and extra contact tips and any tools you may need to service welder or can of anti spatter spray, welding...

Off in another direction...... Manual hydraulic pump, and a ram.... https://www.baileyhydraulics.com/Hand-Operated-Hydraulic-Pump-1-3-Gallon-Reservoir?gclid=EAIaIQobChMItbujhdq2_AIV-hatBh3QVQyYEAQYAiABEgK9FPD_BwE...

Would "Hi Lift Jack " (48 or 60 inch) give you enough lift..... Lot of arm work out though.... https://hi-lift.com/hi-lift-jacks/

JUst use winch drum as capstan... Make about 3-4-5-6 wraps of cable around winch drum and take the two ends, one to a pulley under tongue to bed and one up over a tower and come down to bed..... Use sheave block on spring as tensioner.....

How about vertical pole with pulley on top, mounted to "tongue" with a ATV winch mounted on tongue or pole and line up over pole and pulley and down to trailer bed.... Running winch "IN" lifts bed in relationship to tongue, running winch "OUT" lowers bed to tongue... You also want some sort of...

Only investment in mine was wheels and casters, rest of material for cart was from "inventory" (scrap pile).... Why buy something that is inferior and have to spend more money to make it less than mediocre....

Was always under impression the first project with new welder was to make a cart..... And the larger the wheels and casters the easier it rolls over the little crap on floor....

I usually clean out clutch area and be sure oiler ports are clear and turn over bar every time I remove chain for sharpening, remove air filter and blow it out whenever I happen to think about it.... Always put away saw with touched up chain, full of fuel and oil.... Always ready for "next"...

Buy welder through local welding supply that also stocks supplies and parts .... For Example there are three local "hardware" stores that handle FORNEY in my area.... And local Tractor Supply (25 miles away) has HOBART, rural living you know....Closest local true welding and gas supplier(s) is...

All good suggestion about taking hose off by cutting it and using punches and wrenches and such, but how are you going to tighten it when replaced..... You are going to need room to swing wrench, bite the bullet and remove "other" hoses to get access to bad one.... I would also hit area with...

Yeah but have to have tractor in sunlight or purchase uv light to make it viable .... JD and some others has a dye supplement similar to what the do for "RED" diesel you can put in to HST to get some coloration of fluid...... https://www.greenpartstore.com/john-deere-hydraulic-oil-dye-mt3668.html

A little creative backhoe or mini excavator work can change flow directions, don't think that is real issue, but type of crossing (bridge/culverts) is still problem to be decided on...

Two thoughts here..... 1. Build a true bridge high and wide... 2. If you use culverts cement them in solid with good upstream and downstream headwalls so if they are blocked, water can flow over as typical of a "ford"... Below are pictures of if you have unseasonal rains as 4-5 inches in...

Always admired a "Excavator", do I need one, maybe for a hour once in several years.... But it's on the toy list.... Maybe I will rent one for a day to get over the fascination.... What I could really use is a scraper blade for behind my MF GC 1715 CUT.... One that has angle and tilt....

Something like these may work for sockets... https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03969A-Socket-Holder-Organizer/dp/B07D1G9295/ This is a safety pin (commercially available), made one from coat hanger wire for going through my combination open/box end wrenches....

https://www.messicks.com/part/86530982/boot

Believe third line should be PB (Power Beyond from FEL) it should be looped with "P" (Power to 3PH))

Pike Pole...

If you are not going to be winching (huge forestry winch), then as other mention a log arch would probably be best solution.... Seems to me the hydrailic gripper/loader and trailer is quite an expense unless you are doing this professionally to sell the wood..... The layout of my 10 acres...

Could this actually be a control valve with the A&B ports plugged... And exactly what is gray hose connected to (on left side), another valve body( a "TEE" fitting)?...

In the end it all comes down to this....

Funny.... When I am stuck, I am more concerned in getting tractor free from problem than taking the time to do a video.....OH that's right don't have a cell phone or camera to do video....

I ditched the big bulky plastic tool cases and went back to small traditional tool box, it contains a 1/2 drive SAE set of sockets and a 3/8 drive set of metric sockets, a set of metric and SAE combination (box-open end) wrenches, assorted pliers and screwdrivers a roll of "mechanics wire" and a...

Most "big time" welding sites are dominated by Stick Welders on big time welding projects.... The funny thing is my 120V Hobart Handler 140 hs handled all the welding projects I need to make for tractor implements and such to maintain my 10 acres.... My real problem is I tend to fabricate some...

Lost one bridge in last weeks storm, and another one was moved off its foundation which I managed to move back....... Clean up was boots and chain.... There was no real way to get tractor close enough to problem to clear it, just plain old back breaking work and aid from portable ATV winch to...

I don't remove aluminum foil seal in my chain oil jug, I punch about a 1/4 inch hole in "seal" and use jug as giant squeeze bottle, slow but neat and clean and no need to transfer chain oil from original jug to any other applicator for filling oil...

I don't see any negative in placing hooks behind double wall section, only means your chain if limited in length needs to be a few inches longer..... Once chain is in hook and secure the hook is serving its purpose.... IF that bothers you then either you "weld" on hooks and shackle eye at...

Think I would haunt local places like "facebook marketplace"... Have seen several lathes show up over last several months....

Ok. got wrong OP, sorry about that.... Yeah that is what the forum is for, but at some point it just becomes repetitious and it gets strung out like the 146+ pages on "how to remove rounded off drain plug"........ Sorry if my "Get-er-done" attitude walked all over your sensitivities.........

Yeah... Have similar box use it for both weed wacker and chain saw....

I just use a flat blade screwdriver and rake it along the groove and follow up with old toothbrush, but then I am not paranoid or professional and only may use saw for few hours a week.... My main concern is the chain oiling hole in bar is not plugged...

alexpops: I think you are ready to buy MIG unit, stop with the discussion and just decide on unit and buy it, and then deal with electrical power as necessary, in lieu of redoing all the wiring in shop just get or make up large extension cord to reach from receptical to welder... You are going...

More or less yes.... General procedure for really thin stuff is not to run a bead but do a series of tack welds about a inch apart, then come back and do another series of tack welds adjoining previous one, and so on till you have a complete bond.... This eliminate excess heat in thin stuff and...

As a WAG (Wild A$$ Guess) I would say its a pressure relief valve....

Real basics is to start with voltmeter or test probe at glow plugs and work your way back along wiring till you find the voltage needed to operat/heat glow plugs, problem will probably be in the same general area..... As a guess there is probably a fuse involved or a relay operate by switch on...

Moved to MIG (GMAW - Gas Metal Arc Weld) and never looked back, still have partial roll of demo FCAW wire that came with welder when purchase about 8 years ago....

Good read but not much enlightenment, ended up more about use and rope then clues how to make....

NO heat.... Use hammer effect or pickle fork...

A little off topic but does anyone use a PTO capstan for dragging wood... Reason is small tractor (CUT) and "small" need (don't need BIG winch)....

Actually there is more to draw bar pins than just an ad from Curt... https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ppp/ppp-94.pdf

If it shows weak the means it lacks capacity.. Capacity is its ability to produce required voltage under "normal" load..... Battery is probably on its way out...

Weak battery?... Are all connection clean and tight..... If battery voltage drops below about 9-10 volts while cranking, battery is probably on the way out.... Extreme cold can cause havoc with a weak battery... If you add "jump box" or jump battery does it crank OK?

That is as a society we were allowed to become too complacent with out infrastructure ... And our government would protect us...

That is because PG&E is more concerned on paying dividends on their stocks then putting utility payer's monies back into the system.... But dark is dark and cold is cold...

Gee Now you know what California goes through all the time.....

Any welder that is 120 Volt AC and has output of 140 amps or less is not going to handle anything with a thickness above 1/4 inch or more... I have Hobart Handler 140 (older 4 voltage setting model) and use primarily GMAW (Gas Metal Arc Weld) process which is solid wire and shield gas... My...

Seems to me if replacement is not available it's a candidate for straightening and welding.... Not really rocket science to do repairs....

Maybe one here... https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_farm-acreage+seats?seeAll=1

If really despirate you can put a bolt in vice and set torque wrench to a value about mid scale and use a small digital scales to get a reading where it clicks... https://www.wayfair.com/home/pdp/american-weigh-scales-digital-hanging-scale-was10159.html?piid=

Typically on new alternator systems they have three wires, one is a B+ that goes to battery, one is a source of 12 volts to initialize charge sequence at start up and one is for ALT indicator light on dashboard.... IF wiring us all plug&play its pretty hard to get it wired wrong.... Could...

It has nothing to do with being a tractor battery or lawn mower battery or truck or car battery.... Its all about battery quality and how it was maintained .... 10 years for a flooded cell battery not kept on a tender is probably on the way out.... Only battery that has gives me long life is a...

Simple answer....NO.... Just back it off and put it away.......

If I needed chains, I would stay in house by the fire.....Snow in my area only lasts 2-3 days....

8.8 is a grade of bolt... 120,000 PSI shear not a diameter.... Metric bolts are generally even numbers as 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm and so on....

Maybe 6mm then.... OR probably could convert to 1/4 inch Grade 5... Could always determine size from broken pieces or part list for tractor/impliment....

Many times they are 1/4 inch, BUT it depends on application, what is diameter of hole you are going to put bolt in....

Personally If I have need to have climbing done once or twice a year I find it easier to just hire someone for a day or two....

Put a voltmeter or a test probe on glow plug and to ground and see how long voltage is there at glow plugs compared to what light is doing....

Draw bar from tractor chassis, use pin and yes trailer jack on implement....

Parts list probably means a kit/packet of 6 so you have spares.... And don't confuse SAE grade 8 with metric 8.8...... Both SAE grade 5 and metric 8.8 are 120,000 shear bolts....

Not sure of your tractor model, but BROTEC makes spacers for many tractor models... https://bro-tek.com/

IF you COPY the concept of commercially made splitters you will have the features you want.....

For you elbow you might consider... https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Adapters-Fittings/NPT-to-NPT/NPT-Female-to-NPT-Male---Right-Angle/ OR...

Almost all commercially made splitter have these features...........

Filter is WIX 51551 1x12in thread and 10 micron rating with 12 to 16 GPM flow. Got mine at local auto parts store.... Also my manual states AW type or Dexron II, but I believe it's no longer available, but suggest Dexron III, anyway it is just a 10w automatic transmission fluid...

Not really sure, splitter is 1989-91 model DUERR (made by MTD), probably been through several owners, ... By appearances elbow maybe cast iron or cast steel "pipe" fitting, only marking on fittings is "3/4" and "Thailand"... Known in real works as a "Street El"... And has 3/4 inch"barbed"...

Glad problem is solved, thanks for updating us...

OUCH!....

Problem is the "link" is to long.... Made for old valve..... You probably have enough material in existing link to cut it back and drill new hole.... You really need is a chain master link or fabricate link that is shorter.... As in your second picture.... Master link can be available at...

I can attest to it squirting out a round it cant split..... Been nursing a dislocated thumb the round intersected with when it popped out of splitter.....

At 4.2 GPM even at its rated 2200PSI it's going to be slow, a kid on a tricycle will be faster..... https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/002/3/3/2339-jinma-jm-284.html If you want speed and insist or retaining 3PH option, yes a different pump and fluid reservoir is probably the...

20,000 pounds... That is only 10 ton..... Seriously I have a 20 ton splitter (40,000 pound force) with 6.5 HP motor and it is fast enough that I have to step back sometimes and take a breather... Speed of operation is pretty much decided on by user, other than small systems are generally...

Please explain the need for "power reverse"..... In all the scenarios I have been involved in power reverse usually mean, winch cable is tangled beyond hope, if winch line will not free wheel out by human power you have problem with winch.... Of course this is related to dragging, not...

The flow rate (GPM) will determine the speed of ram movement, and if pressure (PSI) is not there you lack tonnage to split... Went through this with MF GC 1715 and after the numbers, with about 6.8 GPM and 1960 PSI descided even (theoretically) adding power beyond (PB) it just would not would...

Sort of sounds like HF Predator motor on my wood splitter, I replaced a B&S 5 hp because the repair parts for the B&S were more than HF motor, and can replace HF motor at least two more times for what a new B&S or Honda costs and still be ahead dollar wise....

Really don't care about grade for most carriage bolt application because they are in wood, and wood will rip/crash/tear/crumble before bolt ever breaks.... But for what its worth...

Simple picture with explanation would help....

What you have to understand is the Chinese are really good at manufacturing to specification.... Cheap specifications, cheap product, top quality specification, top quality producr.... Consumer market determins quality....

Don't understand that message .... What do you mean by wrong shape.... Pictures would help.....

I use chains and tractor draw bar also.. Not much of a problem if you are paying attention..... Most dangerous thing about logging and firewood is log splitter.....

If I am seeing lock washers under the nuts, I get the indication they are supposed to be tight....

Then there is this..... https://www.tiemges-or.com/products/chain-saw-sharpener

Am I correct in assuming (hate that word) that your system is electric over hydraulic, and it may be a toggle type switch and not something on joystick? There may be more to it than just extending (paralleling) the wiring to operate solo, does the unit have seat safety switches that may...

Can't see attachments....

Get christmas tree light string.....

And that is the case of most internet searches.....

Does it looks anything like this?.... If it does, it's a common item.... Usually a picture of broken part will tell us more about what you need....

I originally through about it for Bucket Level Indicator for FEL.... But $2 worth of steel from scrap pile won out over DRO...

Really sound like system does not know you are actually in seat, so my guess would be seat switch or any other safety switch down stream from seat switch or crummy corroded connector or actually broken connector or wire.... Have you looked at electricals to be sure you don't have rodent...

THE Northern Tool towable uses a 15 HP engine....... Think about it.... Go to site read the specs....

Would a DRO for mill do any good...

I usually have splitter hitched to Jeep or PU when in vertical mode and use FEL on tractor to nudge round under ram....

That is why I have salvaged 22 ton horizontal/vertical splitter......Guess I could do third function and put a spliiter on FEL, but them its a lot of maneuvering and does not seem practical for my workflow...

This would be my option... Only issue may be finding plumbing ports on engine.... https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Universal-Fit-Street-Rod-Heater-12-Volt-20-000-BTU,73715.html

Might be that head lights constantly powered may be "day time running lights".....

Odd that there is a constantan voltage on high beam circuit.... PCM must be switching "ground" off and on to control lights.... Simple change in how relay is wires could change situation.... You can possibly control relay using headlight "ground" if that is case and apply 12 volts constantly to...

I don't even use the grinder to set it to take "X" thousands off tooth..... I merely set the dept of grind and adjust chain stop so it gets tooth close to wheel, then bring down wheel and nudge head/grinding wheel over till it contacts tooth for very short instance.. Oh the wonders of loose...

For light duty, this could save you all the effort/headaches of building.... https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200832947_200832947

Good idea, maybe, but a lot of time and effort wasted with all the maneuvering used to get small amount of wood split.... Think splitter on end BH dipper is more practical/versatile ...

I would get operational power (12 volts) for universal BOSCH style 12 volt relay(s) from headlight circuit itself (tap into harness behind headlight) ..... Depending on what he wants to use for lights may determine on what lead off existing headlights he wants to get his relay(s) operation...

Looking at the concept of tool in original post, about the only thing I see is it would recontour the gullet and sharpening angle of tooth after many hand filings and maybe deformation, was kinda interested in it as a correction tool after many hand filing .... Have used hand filing, rotary...

I gave up any ax, maul, sledge, wedge really quick after 4-5 whacks of wedge it popped back out of a pine round.... Besides I am kind of "old"..... After finding used splitter and replacing motor things got really better....

The Brotek spacers for my tractor has the "hub centric" grooves and ridges just like how wheel fits on original axle flange...

"Most" valves have three basic flow ports (not "work" ports or A/B ports) , one is PB or "power beyond" (suppliest hydraulic fluid to next valve in line), A P or "power" port which is input to valve body from preceding "power beyond", and a T or "tank" port when excess hydraulic fluids are...

Not so sure about "hardwood" right now.... Have a 22 Ton splitter and put a white oak round (about 12 X 16) in splitter, ram came in contact with round, ram stopped moving, motor grunted.... Round popped straight up about 12 inches and contacted with my hand, now have splint on thumb after...

Think "chain" is a generated graphic inserted into sharpening jig.... Better chain in pic below??...

What is GL/API rating needed on tractor specs.... Does the intended fluids meet or exceeded those rating?.... To me the GL/API rating seems to be the only "common spec" for fluids because most tractor manufacturers seem to what you to use their "branded" product although the fluid in...

That seems to be best solution yet.....

Doubt RPM will have much effect on pressure, but it will have effect on hydraulic flow, that relates to speed of operation....

JUst get your girls out of there..... And call local health dept. and file complain for poor housing conditions...

Seems that there is a flood of these sharpening tools for sale on i-net last few days, do they actually work..... Concept looks good, just can not believe its a quality produce for the $29 to $49 price sellers are asking, down from $79...... Other question is has many "sellers" seized on...

Probably better to determine quick/threaded connections type and have hoses custom made at local shop than to guess with a online hose....

Look at existing fittings real close (degrease/clean), they should have manufacturer's name and part numbers stamped/embossed on them.... Once you have name and part number, the rest is just a "search" away.... I maybe wrong but Pioneer may be brand name and not a style per se....

By initial appearance's your new valve is installed backwards.... THE new valve is functionally the opposite of old valve in every respect... This appears to be same (new) valve you have that is on my DUERR splitter.... Do you happen to have a part number off valve?

Yeah but all four tires (plus spare) on jeep measure the same 30-5/8 inch .... What's to quibble....

OK I measures it tire claims 31 inches diameter... Actual measurement is 30-5/8ths inch ....Who is going to quibble about 3/8th of a inch... These tires are not on a 600 MPH salt flats speed record car... ...

Got multimeter?.....Check to see if you are getting power to glow plugs, if not trace circuit back through any relays/switches/fuses till you find power, most likely problem is in general area where you first find power ... Wiring diagram for tractor will help....

Typically there is no internal adjustment that can change valve operation to how "A" and "B" ports function with relationship to how valve is operated.... I have older DUERR 22 Ton splitter and it uses rigid connection from A & B ports to ram, it functions correctly with a valve body that...

IF you buy a chain, and it is rated for the work you are going to use it for and if it lasts you "X" years without wearing through or breaking how is that expensive ... If you have spent $50 for a chain and use it for 10 years that comes out to about $0.013 a day...

Personally it would bother me to see on his epitaph, "He Knew Exactly What He Was Doing"...

In simple terms the torque specification is for the single unit, the bolt..... NOT how it is used in the application.... As it is used in "application" is a engineering definition for whatever the "product" may be

Go to youtube and enter "Bolt Shear Test" in search box....

By using wrench size on bolythead you can "guess" you are spot on, but only real (accurate) way is to pull the bolt and measure... There are some engineered product the do no use "standard" bolt head sizes to match bolt shank....

Yes reverse hoses to ram... IF you have solid line from valve to ram and operation is reversed the you might have wrong valve... Got pictures of you setup..... MDT make splitters for many different companies under many brand names and generally use same valve on all units....

The negative here is you have to feed chain (length) through banjo slots, My preference is drop in slot.... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/adding-grab-hooks-on-front-bucket-2-or-3-hooks.459212/page-2#post-6392678

Any quality bolt will have "type" stamped/embosses on bolt head... Wrench size doesn't determine what quality/torque requirements for bolts..... THis has always been my go to documentation for reference to bolting and other things around the property....... Pocket Ref by Thomas J. Glover...

MMM=Mid Mount Mower (under belly) ....

I put BRO-TEC three inch spacers on rear of my MF GC1715 (sub compact) and was impressed with the stability, as much of my tractor work is on hillsides (gently) .. It's amazing what a extras 6 inches of width made in "working" with tractor... https://bro-tek.com/

Mainly because there is no positive interlock to protect house or utility company for back feed, if depends on you doing it 100% correct and that is not always the case when you may be rushed to get power back up so angry wife can watch her soap opera.... ALSO against all electrical codes to...

Did you mean something similar to these.... https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Brophy/BE31.html

Thought it works...IT is not a very safe situation, should be avoided..........

The thing with straps is you are limited to "length" by using loops on straps or doubling straps, the thing is with chains and grab hooks you have a infinite amount length adjustment as to size of individual links in chain.... My goto chains is about an 8 foot and 30 foot (1/4 inch chain)...

THink you need to call electrician (one who specializes in generators/transfer switches) and have them come take a look and explain to you what you have... And may any changes you require if you want to make system operate differently... I went totally simple, manual transfer switch for well...

The funny part (according to this thread) is the difference between how tractor tires are sized and car tires..... My Jeep has 11 X 31 X 15 which is 11 inch tread width and a 31 inch diameter on a 15 inch wheel....

JUst a FYI, some B&S motors have a neoprene (?) seat for main needle valve, I have one the got all swollen up from the ethanol in gas... About a 50 cent part to replace.... IF a squirt of starting fluid or carb cleaner down intake will allow engine to pop a few times, but wont start, its likely...

Need a anvil..... https://www.vevor.com/cast-steel-anvil-c_10827

True, but its not same fitting as I am referring to... It's NPT (by its own definition) on one side and swivel on other..... Different animal.... The NPT side should have some sort of seal while swivel side does no require it as to type of connection....

Can you show me a example, because image below is what I am referring to as NPT (tapered pipe thread)....

IF you don't do it you are never going to be happy.....

THE image of fitting from your file indicate two different types of fittings.... One set of tapered fittings (Yellow Arrow) and one set of taper to flair fitting (Blue Arrow) possibly JIC fitting... Yellow arrow fitting (tapered?) will most likely require a sealer.. Blue arrow fitting (JIC or...

Only fitting that need sealants are tapered thread fittings (NPT and variations).... Any straight thread fitting uses either metal to metal contact or some sort of taper & flair or sealing washer/gasket/"O" Ring... Personally I hate PTFE tape, never had any great success getting it to seal.....

I have uses chain on my rr iron and have extended connection point back some and just watch turning radius.... It's more about driving tractor not how its connected.....

Ummm... Check connectors real carefully.... The ones on my FM GC 1715 are British Pipe Thread....

Maybe something like this...

Funny thing is diagram shows it but not listed in parts list....And your part number brings up item, but maybe your tractor really does not have it....

Don't have grapple.... Chain saw, 1/4 X 30 foot chain and DIY brush forks that fit FEL....

But a necessary one.....

Lucky you.... The irony here is some do have delete button and some don't..... Had it for a long while after first signing up, but for last year or so, its missing in action.... There is a whole thread about this problem and it seems its arbitrary if you have delete button...And it seems issue...

Might bring back DELETE button on this forum also....

That is why a lot of tractor owners "fabricate", if manufacturers don't make exactly what you want, you get something that solves at least two of the function issues and modify it to add the third (or more) functions...

And read you manual more... Same irrational mumbling's on how to determine how much ballast weight one should use on rear when using FEL for heavy lifting.... Seems technical writers for manuals have no clue as to how things are engineered or used in real world.... And shop manuals have no...

Parts book shows it, but not a lot of help.... https://parts.agcocorp.com/en_US/apbsearch?q=masseyferguson%2F79036261%2Fl&c=00-toc&name=1734E%20%2F%201739E%20ECONOMY%20COMPACT%20TRACTOR#

THE manual for my GC1715 reads the same as you picture..... No way can rear width match number stated in manual..... BUT I did add 3 inch (Brotek) spacers on rear and it really did help stability really well.... https://bro-tek.com/

That would be first step.....

Dang, no delete button....

?????!!!!!!......

The "Compressor" may be made by Jenny but the whole configuration sort looks like it is a DIY compressor made from several parts salvaged and put together to form a unit....I have a tank that looks very similar with that handle and wheel configuration that came from a Craftsman branded...

Try removing fittings and cleaning and using a sealer (loctite) on threads....

Besides FEL.... The BALLAST weight....

If you do the screw cleaning thing...Only do one at a time to keep gauge indexed properly...

If "standard" bullet connector fit the JD, just make your own.... https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1488/Bullet-Connectors/

There are 2 40 amp fuses under the cover, there is a tab on side of cover opposite hinge side.... Lift on tab, open cover, fuses pull directly straight out... One fuse is for alternator output if fuse is blown alternator will not charge battery or power system.. (fuse 29 is electrical...

My GC 1715 temp gauge did not work directly from new purchase.... Discovered the 2-3 small screws that connect gauge mechanism to circuit board were loose, gently lightened them up all is good.... Something you might check....

Just find old school transformer charger with no "electronics".... I have a old one that is like 30+ years old and keeps on going.... It fell off shelf a year or so ago and broke ammeter, put digital ammeter in place of analog one and it keeps going....

Just fix the CC and move on if it does the type of mowing you require....

Funny thing happened on the property, put a QH on my tractor and have not had to adjust turnbuckels for 3 years now.....

My SCUT uses turn buckels, adjustments are precision, not just "close enough"....

Maybe here.... https://www.andersonpower.com/us/en/resources/PowerPoleResourcesPage.html OR.... https://powerwerx.com/anderson-power-powerpole-sb-connectors?gclid=Cj0KCQjwqoibBhDUARIsAH2OpWhq-w0dyVMNFtHmrU910cj4CZ2YPBujGCAYfYgABNajRfsVrqgTwv8aAjL9EALw_wcB

Think I would go with power pole connectors as louNY suggests..... At 12 volts dc shock hzard is not issue and if you use a good silicone (light bulb/dielectyric) grease corrosion should not be issue....

For that single hard pull that will damage center of bucket I op for something different on front of tractor.... Its equivalant to straight "draw bar" on rear of tractor...

Got Welder, make one...

But you can buy two or maybe three HF motors with what one Honda or B&S costs.... 40-50 hours on log splitter motor (HF Predator) and it does no smoke or use oil...

Would not suprize me one bit that the 13hp HF and a 12-13hp Honda have exactly same form factor as the B&S.... Found that out when putting the HF 6.5 hp on log splitter.... Even bolt up holes for hydraulic pump adapter were SAE threads...

Probably going to find you can buy a HF (made in China) engine complete cheaper than repair parts for your B&S.... I know it was cheaper to go with the HF 6.5 HP engine to replace the 5 hp B&S engine on my log splitter than buy needed parts to get B&S running... And yes I hate sending my money...

Probbly not many as with either welded or bolted the stress you put on hooks is up to you and how much damage you willing to cause to bucket....

Not sure why they are on lower rear of bucket most hook installation are on top of bucvket to hold things in bucket, care to expalin.... But great work in installation...