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If all you want is to protect the tractor, get a 9' tall sea container. Secure, take all the snow you can pile on it, relatively cheap, easy and QUICK. If you are going to have a tractor on hand, why do you need someone to plow a parking area? :unsure:

Typically, with non-draft control 3pt hitches, the only reason to use the different pin location on the tractor side is to change how the implement is raised. Top pin hole normally lifts the implement relatively parallel to the ground. As you lower the pin location, the implement is raised in an...

Perfect picture ptsg, thank you. Why can't the OP simply use multiple adaptor fittings to accomplish the same exact thing?

A picture or 2 would probably help.

I had that same model on the trailer 20 years ago, built by Midwest Implements. Strapped to the pallet, it weighed 680lbs. Put it behind a 10,000lb machine and it bent the very first time I used it. I bought it on the recommendation of the dealer. As I had mentioned earlier, it may not be the...

I doubt that you will find a cat 1-2 rear blade that is set up for hydraulics that is light duty. I'm not saying that it has hydraulics, but the adjustment mounts are set up for them. Again, look for something at a minimum of 700lbs. Any blade that weighs 700 or more pounds will not be light or...

8' for sure. As heavy as you can afford, nothing under 700lbs, offset, skid shoes, and be sure that the blade can swivel the full 360* when mounted on the 3pt hitch. Something like this would be ideal IMO. (y)(y)

If you put water bars in and diverted the water off of the road, any chance that that would help? Although the burms make it a pain to grade. :unsure:

Added weight equals more traction in 4 wheel drive. Tires tend to not buldge as much with a heavy bucket of material with the smaller area for the air to compress into.

Roll-over box blades are great (y)(y) and I'm a hydraulics guy. My first question, do you have your tires filled? Filling the tires makes a day & night difference as far as the capabilities of your tractor. I have all 4 tires filled on both my 75 HP (81"ROBB) and 32HP machines. (65"ROBB) I...

Contact me and this can be resolved. Please look at this link so that you can have the answer for me when you contact me.

Maybe instead of removing your hydraulic top link, simply disconnect it and bungee the hose ends up out of the way. Seems like that might be easier than swapping the whole setup each time? :unsure: Obviously, you are a candidate for adding some diverter-s. :cool: ;)

Using a chain in place of a top link allows the implement to be able to rotate back onto the tractor. I'm not saying that it will, but the possibility is there.

Well, there are some OEM units that are built that way. (JD for example) They think that it is a set place to start from. Supposedly easier? :rolleyes: What they don't think of is that it is all relative to the ground that you are on top of at the time and not even thinking that some roads need...

Just my opinion, but typically it is best to have tilt to both sides equally. That is how I build all of mine, except the Kubota BX series. There are many situations where having the ability to tilt to both sides can be a big benefit for the operator.

Exactly, no good reason to have to compromise. (y)

You are probably correct.

Your potential property looks rough to me.:unsure: I would prefer something that would work better in your potential situations, or at least what I see as potential situations. But maybe that's just me looking at the few pictures that I have looked at?

Do you want that type of tire on the JD pictured for the property you are looking at? I know that I would not. To replace them would not be cheap. :rolleyes:

Just have in mind that with any size disk that your 3320 will be able to pull, it most likely is going to take many many times over the ground. With a tiller, once, maybe twice.

To add the Euro hooks to extendable ends, you simply pull the pin that keeps the end from falling out, rework the existing end and slide it back in. The removal and reinstallation literally takes 1-2 minutes. I can't say as to what you guys think that the issue is? :unsure: And YES, the Euro...

Something to keep in mind that others may forget about. The L5740 that you are looking at has well over 10K worth of implements and loader attachments that come with it. Just food for thought. Good luck with your decisions. ;)

How about a Bush Hog 12' cutter? https://bushhog.com/flex-wing/3112-flex-wing-rotary-cutter/ There used to be a guy on the tractor forms who cut highways for a living. All he used were Bush Hog brand mowers

Google is your friend. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=kubota%2Fs+largest+dealership+in+the+world

As per link in post #23. It sure seems as though one of these would not be any issue for an MX tractor.

And then the very next post (#5) the OP said that an 8' would be great if he could find one that was reasonable. I believe that the OP was confused about the 60 PTO hp recommended for a 6' cutter that he was looking at, not even thinking that the recommendation is for cutting 4" brush with that...

I'm fairly certain that there are people on the tractor forums who regularly use 8' rough-cut mowers behind their MX series tractors. Thus my recommendation. I do not have any personal knowledge if they are an issue or not. I do not have or have ever used that size of tractor. It sure seems as...

Maybe consider a dual-spindle 8-foot-wide unit. Takes less PTO power with a wider cut. :cool:(y)

First thing, slow down, 2nd thing, lower the air pressure. If those things don't do it for you, then change the seat as mentioned and liquid fill the tires to the top of the rim if they are not already. Good luck. (y)

Typically, the width of the loader bucket is around the width of the implements recommended. The 40xxR series and the Grand L series tractors usually have 6' loader buckets. Basically, a frame size. Obviously, smaller and larger tractors can use 6' implements.

Arly, are you set on any brand in particular, there are a lot of really good tractors available, but it does not do anyone any good looking at different brands if you only want JD (as an example) and what cost range would you consider? Tractors that use 6' implements are a good size to...

There are 8 foot units available, just Google them. You might need to order it, but it's not like no one builds them. Most of the attachment manufacturers build them. A good one is going to run over $2000.

Here's a thread here on TBN.

Not to get the thread sidetracked, but get a down pressure kit for your 3pt PHD and your digging issues will disappear.

Your CK27 is a different animal from the CK10 & 20 series tractors.

Why would you use anything other than JIC or O-ring boss fittings for all your plumbing? JD is big on face seal fittings.

I'm going to address a few things here. I have no idea if what Kioti offers has load checks, I imagine that their valves have them. I know that the Bucher valves that I sell have load checks as well a float feature available. As far as the slot & guide lower clevis, these are a std item for...

I did not mean on the top link. (If) the implement has possible gains from having the top cylinder in float mode, then either have the float feature with the control valve of put a slot in the implement top link mount or get one of the Y pivots that are for the top link mount. Why do you think...

I don't understand (not compatible with a Euro top link hook). I have them on both of my tractors. My 32HP cat 1 tractor which is roughly the same size as your Kioti, and my 75HP cat 2 tractor.

If you need both a check valve and the float feature, then put in an end similar to what is pictured and remove the hydraulic issue.

For your tractor, I would not consider anything less than 1000 lbs. And yes you might not even be able to connect to a cat 1 hitch. The eyes may be too large for a straight cat 1 hitch, Don't even bother looking at anything in a cat 1 size. 7' minimum, up to 8'. Good luck.

I'm I'm pretty sure that they use a 4" stroke for the side link. That presents an issue of not having an equal amount of tilt angle available to both sides and still maintain the OEM center point dimensions. (As in what the fixed left side link is)

Cat 1 is what it says in the print with both ends having 3/4" holes. I doubt that the hook end has a 1 3/4" wide implement ball though.

It's on the Fit Rite website. https://www.fitritehydraulics.com/float.html

The issue with going with the top link first is that you don't know how much additional length you need. If you go with Pat's, the connection point is extended 3 3/4". The Euro hooks extend 2". So your typical top link for your std 3pt is going to be different for any of the 3 scenarios. Plus do...

Is it actually worth the expense of a new bucket for the additional 6" (about 9%) of width? I think that I would just make a few more passes. If you are grading, get a 3pt implement for grading.

Not too many complaints about the Euro hooks. Nothing like the Pat's anyway. 3 common sizes. cat 1, cat 1-2, cat 2. Even cat 3 & 4 available. My recommendation is cat 1 for under 3000lb lift capacity. Cat 1-2 for 3000lb-5000lb capacity and cat 2 for over 5000lb 3pt lift capacity. Do the...

I think what you will find is that people with just cat 1 tractors are relatively happy with them. Then with the cat 1-2 tractor sizes people start having issues of one kind or another. People with straight cat 2 have the most issues and the bigger the cat 2 capabilities, (5000lb and up) the...

Do some research, some people are not really happy with the cat 2 Pat's. You might want to consider the Euro hook quick hitch ends. Just providing options.

If you want OEM, I would try these guys. https://www.michiganironandequip.com/

It may be old, but I just got a sale from post #13. :cool:

Details, details.

Fit Rite Hydraulics. And here is what I would be providing. If you don't get it from me, here is what you should be looking A cat 2 top link with narrow cat 2 ball swivels at both ends. A 3" dia cylinder with a 1 1/2" dia rod having a working length of 19 1/4"- 27 1/4" similar to the unit on...

Not the OP, but if you want a side link built to provide an equal amount of tilt to BOTH sides, you might want to try Fit Rite Hydraulics. Most side links available for these models do not provide an equal amount of tilt to both sides and still maintain the left side (OEM) dimensions.

Most likely just from how it was taped off before paint. How far does it extend, 4"?

Just a heads up, and you most likely already know this, if the hose blows out, that shut off valve does nothing. The solid blocks on the cylinder are the way to go if you have safety concerns.

WR Long is the only other 3rd party manufacturer that I am aware of that has the electric rear remotes similar to what Summit has. I believe that you will get more help from them than you will from Summit as well as they have a float feature worked into their rear remote system.

What works and what is ideal can very often be very very different. Even the OEM tractor manufacturers do the same thing, provide links that (work) on several different models, but are far from being what should actually be there, ALL of them do it. It takes less than 10 minutes to know for...

Are you sure that is the working length that would be best for you? Look at the following link, get the asked for dimension, then find a unit that provides roughly an equal amount of adjustment based on that asked for dimension. https://fitritehydraulics.com/toplink.html Good luck.

May I ask, what is your application that you want an M size tractor, weighing x? amount need to be used for?? :unsure:

Yes typically the said width is the blade cutting width. (Distance between insides of side panels.) I am happy with my 7 footer, because I would still have areas in the road that I would need to go over 3 passes wide. Forget about pulling material sideways, it just does not happen. I have...

It's not the HP, but the weight of the tractor pulling the implement. You should be over 10K pounds with the loader, more so if you have additional ballast. You can pull the 8 footer no problem, just depends on the conditions of the ground. I have a 1400lb 7 footer that I pull with a 12K pound...

I still think that you should contact WR Long directly. If anyone knows about your issue, they should. WR Long 252-823-4570

No ugly grinding allowed. :rolleyes: You could always just get a Hydraulic top & tilt set, no grinding required. ;)

Just grind the cat 2 end down far enough that it will fit between the ears of the implement. Use a bushing to reduce the 1" dia down to the 3/4" dia of the cat 1 implement and still work fine for any cat 2 implement. I imagine that this would cost all of maybe $2 for the reducer bushing and...

Check with a Woods implement vendor. You need a sub frame that comes with the backhoe to attach to. DO NOT get any kind of a 3pt hitch attachable backhoe. That is a disaster waiting to happen, not if, just when.

If you can feel them, forget about it. Even if you can't, at best you will hide some of them so it might look OK if the light and angle are "just right". This is an exercise that you don't want to do. It will NEVER be as good as a new windshield, not even close. :(

I was in the glass business for 35 years, worked with pieces of glass that cost 10s of thousands of $$. If you value your time at more than 1 dollar per hour, just get a new windshield. It is basically impossible to get these out and not have the glass destorted. Like was already mentioned, if...

All the rear remotes that are available and the loader 3rd function. Now is the time to get them.

Wall thickness is 3/16", I am in business to make T&T sets, not custom one-off cylinders that require ultra custom ends. I can't keep up with doing what I do without going down a rabbit hole for a one off that takes who knows how much time. It would be different if I was not so busy, but I am...

Can you post a picture of your cylinder and check valve please?

If you have Pat's and have been happy with the Pat's, stay with that type of QH. Just be sure to get a longer top link to allow for the added length of the Pats. I provide a 23"-35" working length for your model when the customer has the Pat's QH. I think that you would find that the std full...

When you say that your rear remote valve leaks, the valve leaks externally or is it an internal leak?

I will say this, if you purchase a landscape rake, be careful of what you get, they are not built equally and some are only good for very light loads to be put on them intended to be used with a smaller light weight machine, otherwise they will twist like a pretzel if a decent load is put on...

A lot of 10,000 psi rated fittings are NPT. So it is most definitely not a low-pressure only type of fitting. ;)

Yes, I build all of the top & tilt cylinders that I sell. I do not sell seal kits, they are warrantied for as long as I am in business. You can get about any cylinder seal that I use from MCmaster-Carr. Seals are always available, you just have to look. 2 1/2" cylinders with 1 1/2" dia rods. I...

Can you show the price variations and what you get? There can be a big difference when comparing different sizes.

My LPGS is 7' wide between sides, 8' long and 22" tall. The tractor without a 3pt implement is over 12,000lbs. You can see that material has been over the two support bars. This is with the material being with an ideal moisture content. When it has been wetter or with grass mixed in, it has...

Gordon Gould is a member here and he has a pivoting tailgate on his. I have all the parts made for my 7 foot LPGS, just no time to get everything together and get it completed. 😞 Should be able to move about 4 yards of material each pass with it once completed. 😎

$1893 for a complete set with the slot & guide float feature in the side link clevis shipped to you. Currently at a 10 week lead time.

7/16" grade 8 gets you a size bigger and has plenty of strength.

If you decide that you want the best T&T set, $1419.49 tax & shipping included.

To be clear, Euro draft link ends are weld on only. Pat's are bolt on only. Pat's and the Euro ends ARE NOT the same, not even close.

So do I, I even have a couple of cat 2-3 implements up to 3500lbs. If your MX tractor can't push back 1000lbs, well good luck. I don't see an issue. Just keep using your extendable ends as they are, easier than adding any hook-type connection at all and you're happy, so in your case, it doesn't...

You can have both, I build them that way all the time. Having the hook ends, the extendable feature is not normally needed though. Say you back up to the implement, you are 1-2 inches from being square. Simply back up the needed distance pushing the closest side back using the riser on the...

So the attachment points pivot with the ripper bar?

So, operator error for not checking clearances? :unsure: :oops: Still I would have thought that it simply would not have connected, and I guess that it did not, but broke the ends of the hook off. Were you pounding on the implement trying to get it down in the hooks? Just curious not that it...

Please elaborate on how these got broken.

A full 3pt quick hitch requires the same exact mounting position on every implement that you have. The Euro hooks can accomodate different hitch widths on the implement. It is very common for older implements to not have the std cat 1 or cat 2 widths for the connection points. But the correct...

If you think that you want a particular function to remain on instead of auto returning to the default position, simply install a maintained switch instead of the momentary switch that you have. The idea of having the momentary switches is so that everytime you go to use that function, you...

I do, just not a common machine to build for. It's been a few years since I have built a set for this model. I'm assuming that yours is a cat 2 hitch? Need to fill out the Fit Rite contact page.

You are looking at about $3K for everything. Cylinders will dead lift just over 11,000lbs for your tractor.

John Deere now has a 75hp HST machine, the 4075R.

Contact WR Long directly, they should be able to help.

Just my opinion and that of the Goodyear research facility in Texas, the Road Boss is the best simplest unit made. (y)(y) https://www.roadboss.org/product/road-boss-commercial-graders/

Sorry, what are you talking about?

For top links. Std cat 1 pin size is 3/4". Std cat 1 ball swivel is 1 3/4" wide. Std cat 2 pin is 1". Std cat 2 ball swivel is 2" wide. Narrow cat 2 (1 3/4" wide) ball swivels are typically used at the implement end (rod end) so that the cat 2 ball swivel can be used for cat 1 implements with a...

I don't think that you are going to find a hydraulic unit with those dimensions. I have found that if you look at the following link, get the asked for dimension and find a hydraulic unit that provides that asked for dimension for the mid stroke (24"?) that is about the best that you are going...

The RB3784 is a nice blade for 50hp and under tractors IMO. It is only available with a hydraulic cylinder for the blade angle. Blade tilt and offset are only available with manual adjustments from the factory.

All of these get used on the road. It all depends on what needs to be done.

Why would you want the top link to float with your LPGS? To start with, that eliminates using the draft control and secondly, raise the front blade just a bit higher than the rear blade. You need to try different techniques to find what method works best for your set of circumstances. People...

There is a chance that all that needs to be done is the injectors pulled and the engine turned over a few times to get the Water out. I know this because I had 6.9 hydraulock after the engine had been shut down and then filled with anti-freeze from a blown intake gasket. If the motor was...

I am assuming that you are not able to change out the engine? Check on a mobile tractor mechanic to see if he would be interested in pulling the engine, rebuilding it, and reinstalling. Without knowing what all happened to the engine (rod out the side?):oops: it's hard to even guess, but I...

Not that these are the same, but the Euro hooks work quite well and would be welded to the draft links that you now have. These typically add about 2" to the length. Just another option to consider. :unsure:

Looks good, thanks for the followup. ;)

This will work with your cab tractor? It sure does not look like it to me. Where you are located, you really should try Jordan Sales, or Bills Tractors as already recommended and go with OEM stuff. Good luck with this. ;)

Besides you should still be able to get them at your Mahindra dealer, yes the TYM valves should be the same. Or just add a diverter and use the same valve-controls and add as many sets of couplers that you may need. Right now I think that Summit probably has the best deal for diverters.

It would be hard to beat a land plane for general maintenance. I have well over a mile of drive to maintain and when I got my land plane, the time spent for general maintenance was cut by more than half. Yes you can keep the crown, it's just not practical to expect to build a crown though...

Not really, you just dig the material unevenly, it still only flows over the blade. It does not in reality move side-side, it still only flows basically straight over the blade. You want to crown the road, you need a rear blade, and in your case, your tractor is really too light to be rolling...

You really are not going to build a crown with any land plane that I know of. Even though the blades are typically angled, they simply do not move the material sideways much at all. I have tested the side movement of material on my Land planes, (I have 5' & 7' units) by painting the ground and...

Does he actually need 3 rear remotes, or just wants 3? JD has a great 2 valve rear setup for about $1200. A 3 valve set is going to be a 3rd party setup, maybe something like what is pictured? This set would have 2 valves with the float feature intended to be used for the T&T cylinders and the...

You might want to google it. It looks like there is plenty to check out.

I don't know anything about your mower, but doesn't it have more than a single wheel? Pull the other set apart and see what you need?

That would be my guess. I don't know what else would be there.:unsure:

Just my opinion, but that Mahindra will outwork all those others. Now if you need that, I don't know. The Montana is actually a TYM tractor, also sold as a Mahindra in the same time period. The Mahindra 8560 is a Mahindra, not a rebranded machine. It is a 10k+ pound machine as it sits without...

Yes, 3/8" BSPP. Get new hoses made,(y) not extensions.(n)

Not that this has anything to do with your current issue, but your float feature slots in the side links should have the pin locked down at the bottom when you are trying to cut grade. You would only use the lower clevis float feature with your blade when doing a final smoothing pass, typically...

No doubt, 3rd party units. Most likely gold or silver in color. Not painted Kubota grey.

I think that he is talking about the OEM manual top link. :unsure: Your tractor end uses a 3/4" pin and is only 1 3/4" wide. The implement end should be a narrow (1 3/4" wide) cat 2 end. (1" pin) Then use a reducer bushing for cat 1 implements. Not sure how easy it's going to be to find that...

These work great. Use your valve to let the pressure off of the tractor side and the couplers on the attachment side for installation. It's just not that big of a deal. I don't understand why these are not more commonly discussed on tractor forums. In the link, you can see the small relief in...

That is like new, I just refurbished it for that customer. He changed to a different tractor size.

If indeed Messicks is selling you a top link built by WR Long, then it is very similar to my Fit Rite unit. Just not quite as refined on the exterior of the cylinder and it will be black, not Kubota grey. It has a 9" stroke. How long are the hoses, 36"? Mine are 30" & 36". Are those 90s flow...

With an electric diverter, you can have the control with a momentary switch on the valve lever so that you can actuate 2 different functions and never take your hand off the lever. :cool: Actually, you can do this type of setup with up to 3 diverters so that you can operate 4 separate functions...

Here are some pictures of a manual diverter set. Do you want manual or electric? I'm sure we could work out an electric set.

A couple of pictures that a customer sent me. If you look close, it does have the PTO. Sorry no full pictures. :( The tree guys down the road from me bought a new JD 110 without the hoe back when JD was still selling the 110s. He has a Gannon box blade with hydraulic scarifiers on it. He just...

Here ya go, a little heaver duty industrial unit that is also available in 88"& 96" sizes. Cammond 4C5 series. Scroll to the end of the lists to see the specs, and they offer these with manual or hydraulic actuated shanks. Nice to have that option with this type of unit. (y)

If you don't have transport wheels, then simply put the disks straight with no angle. They don't really cut all that much. Should be fine for just moving around the property. ;)

JD has had a 4075R with HST for about a year now, if you can get by with that small of a tractor that has 75HP, you can now also have 75hp with an HST. Should be a step up from your L5740 I would think. :unsure:

Please look at this link to double check regarding the best overall working length for your tractor. This provides an equal or at least close to amount of adjustment in both directions. While your top link may provide close to an equal amount of adjustment in both directions, many do not and...

Regarding John Deere. I have a customer that had purchased a new JD 5075e back in 2023 with all the goodies. Nothing but problems that were not resolved. The dealer gave him 100% credit towards a different tractor. So after a few months he traded the 5075e in for a 5090M. The same thing, got...

I think he is asking about the 3pt control lever at the right of the seat. I'm guessing that it is tight and has a short lever? :unsure:

First thing, go to every dealer that is within whatever you consider a reasonable driving distance. Look at, set on any and all tractors that they have, just because tractors are cool. :cool: From there start asking questions. If you want to get these tasks completed in a reasonable time, you...

I have used my Land Pride PD35 on my Mahindra 3215 (25hp @ PTO) without issues. Have in mind that this PHD has a lower gear ratio than most PHD. Anything from a 6" hole up to a 24" tree hole. A std 18" auger has no issues. I do have to run it above an idle though for anything over 12". This...

Well, in 24 years of having filled R4 tires in one machine or another, we have never had a flat where we had to deal with the tires being filled. In fact the only flats we have even had were on the Case 580E backhoe, and that was on the front tire after new tires were installed. All I can say...

Think of the fluid in the tire as a shock absorber. With just air, you have a beach ball. I ran my 75hp tractor for 1 year with no added ballast, while it was ok at 9500lbs, I knew that it was not enough for what I needed to do. I started adding weight (wheel weights, then liquid ballast, then...

I don't see that adding 30lbs to the 3pt is going to make the tractor ride any better. :rolleyes: With some luck, I'll be able to get to your order before Veterans day. (y)

If you don't have the tires filled, fill them. The ride will be even better yet. I have all four tires filled on both my 5000lb and 12,000lb machines. Makes a HUGE difference in the ride besides adding traction and stability. (y)(y)

With most cab tractors, diverters are the way to go IMO. No linkage to figure out, just mount a control grip on your existing control lever for controlling the diverter-s. If you want, you can control 4 functions without ever removing your hand from the control lever. :cool:

Soooo, this SSQA is connected to the proprietary JD quick hitch? :unsure: I can't make it out.:rolleyes: The picture is of a JD 5075e. Maybe on the smaller tractors?

And that is no different than any other utility tractor. The SSQA robs lifting capacity from them all vs a direct pin on attachment. That is one of the pluses of the JD QA, it robs less capacity. There is always a trade-off of some type, no matter what you choose. JD just gives you more choices.

You can change the scarifier depth by adjusting them in the square tube that they are mounted in. But that square tube is designed to be up or down, nothing in between. Thats why it locks in the down position if you look, you will see a hook that auto locks when the bar is all the way down. If...

Your tractor has the lift capability. I believe that you will get better results and be happier with the heavier box blade.

I have yet to figure out why people say this? You can get skid steer quick attach on John Deeres, you just have to ask for it.

That rear blade is probably my favorite implement, and I have quite a few implements. :cool: I finally put 2 more sets of couplers at the rear of the tractor, so now I can have it all hydraulic. I've had the offset hydraulic in the shop from day one, just never anything to plug it into.:(

Yes, the LPGS will take care of furrows. I would simply run backwards and the back side of the rear blade will leave a beautiful finish grade. (y) :cool:

Are the L-shaped skid shoes not adjustable for height? Mine have 5 pin locations so that the cutting edge can be set at 1" or 2" above the ground, probably for snow removal or material spreading, at ground level or 1" or 2" below ground level. Even having the cutting edge at 1" below grade, the...

JD 5075e with all the hydraulics you can get. I don't think you are going to get everything you want for 60K without going used. You can downsize, but then your capabilities are cut and the time doing the tasks may be lengthened. Good luck.

Not so good for me, shorter lead times indicate fewer customers. Covid was nuts in how people spent money. Covid never really affected my lead times as in material delays. My delays were 100% related to how many orders I had, nothing to do with the materials to build the end product. I know that...

I would not consider 2582lbs a light weight blade.:oops: Round skid shoes with a round post is what Land Pride uses for all of their hydraulic actuated blades. The same as what are on my RBT45108.

Even with the rear gauge wheel addition, I still think that you should get the skid shoes. They help prevent gouging and after all, that gauge wheel is only in the center. And again, learn how to use the draft control feature. Read the owner's manual and fully understand how to actually set the...

Mud2money waited 9 months during covid. I had over 260 orders at the time. Every order gets built in the order that they are placed. He wanted a side link as well as a top link. There are not a lot of choices for an off-the-shelf product when you need a unit that does not warrant a...

Well, I'm down to 10 weeks currently. ;)

Without writing a book on the subject, everyone's surface that they work with is not flat. If you are looking for a smooth surface and the grade transitions as you go around a corner or in a Y in a drive surface or S curves, depending on how drastic the grade differences might be, having the...

Every rotating hydraulic actuated ripper set that I have ever seen is intended to be either raised up or locked down in the lower position. The scarifiers were never intended to be used in any in-between position. If you need a different depth, then hand adjust the scarifiers in their mount...

Regarding your loader leak down. It is best to know what the actual leak-down rate is instead of "it seems too fast". Raise the loader and measure how many inches it falls in a 15-minute time frame. Measure at the bucket lip with the bottom of the bucket parallel to the ground. There are other...

I always provide the float feature with 2 of the valves when I sell valve sets. There are certain tasks that simply benefit from using the float feature for both the top link and side link. If for any reason you might end up with an implement that has a hydraulic function, then you should get...

It looks like it, but I do not know for sure, it is a customer's tractor from years ago. All I provided was the valve set and the couplers in a coupler mount. The customer did everything else.

Because it is made for a different tractor. There are tractors that have that slot on the lower clevis. Most commonly on certain LS models. The linked to side link will not work properly for your Kioti DK series tractor. Be sure to check ALL dimensions before purchasing off the shelf units.

Something like this maybe? :unsure:

The Road Boss that you have linked to would be the unit that I would be getting if I needed another one. You don't need scarifiers for your type of road and the weight of that LPGS. (landplane grading scraper) Mine is a 7-feet wide and 8 feet long and has worked well for me. When you are...

So you are looking at new trucks also? :unsure:

If you thought that EA landplane was good, these Road Boss units are a step above IMO. (y)(y)

Your Kubota uses a 4" stroke, so 2" in each direction. Your Yanmar uses a 5" stroke, so 2 1/2" in each direction from implement being level. Contact me when you are tired of looking. ;)

Probably the NS would compare best to an L4760 and an L5030 to the DK. Good luck with your decisions. :)

Look at the following link. Get the asked-for dimension. That should be what your mid-stroke dimension would be, plus or minus. https://fitritehydraulics.com/toplink.html I normally recommend a 3" dia cylinder with a 1 1/2" dia rod having a working length of 19 1/4"- 27 1/4". This seems to...

Try WR Long for your 3rd function. 3rd Function Main Page

I think that you will find that the std skid steer attachments are far more plentiful and usually less money. Just an FYI. ;)

Look at this link. The asked-for dimension should be what the mid-stroke length should be for your hydraulic top link plus or minus a fraction of an inch.

A 70-75 HP tractor, similar to a Kubota M7060. This size machine allows you to get work done in a decent amount of time. All the main manufacturers have something in the frame size. To start with, I would check on what dealers are within what you consider a reasonable drive. Based on those...

Mine all came from a dealer, and I don't remember the cost, I urchased other things at the same time. Also, this was 18 years ago. I don't remember where, but someplace in Texas (I think here?)is the cheapest place there is to purchase cast iron wheel weights. Shipping is always a killer for...

You might want to consider filling the tires if they are not. I know on my 75hp machine, I used it for 1 year to get a real feal for the machine. I then added 3 sets of cast wheel weights. That did not get me the feel or the added capacity that I was looking for. I then filled all four tires...

Just my opinion, but I like the 1640 better anyway. I'm sure that others would argue in favor of the 2638, just not me. :)

I might be wrong, but I believe that the 2600 series tractors that are still available are simply units that were already made. I'm pretty sure that the agreement with TYM has come to an end. All newly produced machines will be manufactured "in-house" meaning only in plants that Mahindra either...

The 1600 series is built by Mitsubishi in Japan. The 2600 series is built by TYM in Korea and has been discontinued.

There are a few manufacturers that have 65" box blades. That IMO would be ideal for your tractor. So have that in mind when you are looking.

Maybe the OP can confirm that he is not actually working a "horse arena" but wants his grading to have the smooth top finish. I don't think that he has an actual horse arena from looking at his pictures. He just wants his grading to look as if it was? :unsure:

The valve should have a larger flow capacity than what your tractor puts out, so no this should not affect the operation of the backhoe at all. As far as how hot the oil gets, it's common to be 160*-180*, so yes the valve is going to get hot to the touch. Yes, the backhoe supply lines will...

This is very simple, in front of the supply line mount at the rear of the tractor, route the supply side hose up to the in-pressure side of your rear remotes. From the power beyond side of the rear remotes, run that back down to the supply side, (previously disconnected) this provides the fluid...

Yes, the control switches for the diverters are all on a single control grip that is mounted on the OEM control lever for the rear remote. The operator can actuate 4 separate functions without ever removing his hand from the control. Very convenient. No, diverters do not work that way, only one...

You are looking at close to $2000. If you want to move forward and get an actual quote, please fill out the Fit Rite Contact page. https://fitritehydraulics.com/contact.html Thanks

Exactly. Before you go running to Surplus Center for their diverters, be sure that the ports are spaced far enough apart to get the 1/2" couplers installed, if you want the couplers directly onto the diverters.

I w I would guess that a good aftermarket top link will be less $$ than the OEM replacement part.

This picture is a 3 OEM valve set with a double diverter set added. The left-hand OEM valve feeds the double diverter set. The default left-side couplers is now the far right-side set of couplers. This picture is simply to show you the valve work ports supplying the diverter supply ports.

You are thinking that these are separate control valves, THEY ARE NOT. Read post #3 again. This or any set of diverters is supplied with a single set of couplers that you already have for the existing single rear remote. The OEM rear remote couplers ARE THE SUPPLY. Imagine a train going down...

This is what I normally sell for your set of requirements. Cast iron Rexroth-Bosch diverters with an actual control grip that goes on the single rear remote lever. No rocker switches to actuate, then move your control lever. Everything is done from the single control lever. You can control 4...

Just get the 4 multiplier set from Summit. You only need a single rear remote. These are not control valves which would need power beyond, they are DIVERTER valves. https://summit-hydraulics.com/product/hydraulic-multiplier-kit-4-circuit-selector-valve-including-couplers-and-switch-box-control/...

If the tank holds what the flow rate is, 16-17 GPM, so a 16-17gallon tank in this instance, then the tank should have the capacity to have the oil maintained at a cool enough temperature. Your issue might be that the 1/2" couplers are only rated for 12GPM for a constant flow without heating the...

Oh, it is most definitely done. I have set up an LS years ago with 7 sets of rear remote couplers. My 2 utility tractors have 5 and 4. Now mine are open station tractors and the additions are only diverters, but still have the need for that many sets of rear remotes.

Let's see, we are talking about cab tractors under 85HP. Your tractor is in excess of 85HP, yes? So you have a larger tractor than what is being discussed, here, yes? I believe that I had said earlier. "I know of no tractor under 85HP that even offers 4 sets (8 couplers) of rear remotes" And...

Controls start to be a problem for manual valves when you have a cab tractor. A float function can be set up with an electric valve having the work ports connected together and then run to the tank. Actuate the valve, the cylinder is in float, deactivate and the std valve control works as...

Please double check those 4 rear remotes. My thinking is that it will have 4 couplers-(2 rear remotes. I know of no tractor under 85HP that even offers 4 sets (8 couplers) of rear remotes. If the dealer is adding 3rd party stuff, that is one thing, but check about that many factory sets. I...

Yes, the pins are 3/4" dia and that is a cat 1 unit. I normally recommend an 18"-25" working length with a 2" dia cylinder for the CK series machines.

Last resort, add an electric diverter and have the control on your existing rear remote lever.

Look at the following link. Get the asked for dimension and use that length as the mid point of your adjustment. Does not matter manual or hydraulic. https://www.fitritehydraulics.com/toplink.html

Unless he has a skid steer, I would not recommend using one of these with a loader mount on any utility tractor under 120hp and even then would prefer using the 3pt. JMO. :)

Road Boss https://www.roadboss.org/product-information/utility-graders/

Just an FYI, this is a rollover box blade.

Exactly, I highly recommend Bucher Valves.

Lots of people say that there is no need for the float feature on rear remotes. You will find that most of those people have either electric valves (no float feature available) or have cylinders with check valves, because of the electric valves or just poor quality valves in general. You will...

You would be better off with 2 1/2" dia cylinders and 1 1/2" dia rods IMO. That is what I recommend for your model, similar to those pictured. If you are not using Pat's quick hitch, then you want something with a working length close to 20"-29" for a top link. Side link should be built to...