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10MPH would have most of the seed bouncing out of the top of the hopper on a rough field.

Some of the older Vicon spreaders (1990s era) had a hydraulic hose/cylinder to open the gate rather than a lever. My older Vicon has the lever making using a cab tractor awkward, I run it on open station.

111 and 091 same physical size too. Wondered the real world price difference. Should be nice when it comes.

With engine off you should be able to turn the tractor shaft 1/4 turn. Keep tractor end greased and same with implement end. I wear gloves when hitching so hands stay greaseless. I have everything from light 3pt implement shafts that can be turned by hand to heavy and long CV Shafts that...

Pretty well any late 90s/ early 2K pre-emissions GM/ Dodge or Ford will be decent. Manual transmission too. Salt kills everything here. Any of the above trucks in decent shape command a premium.

Impossible to come off IF the pins were properly in place when the attachment was coupled. If you picked up the attachment WITH the pins already latched, you can use the attachment until it falls off, like you experienced. Always curl attachment back fully, then tip fully ahead to confirm...

Most third functions are a switch on the joystick. I haven't run a Fendt, I have come across other companies using rear remotes for loaders though. Some of that is just budget of the owner.

Exactly. My fields are brown and dead and he's baling hay. Neat to see the difference geography makes.

I ted crop that heavy regardless of weather, but getting 7 days of sun and warm in a row would be like winning the lottery here.

I've done some an been back in the field in 30 minutes. Others 12 hours for one bearing. My personally favorite is not using the same bearing sizes on the majority of the machine.

I might try straight oats for hay again. I tried oats & peas once, weather usually too fickle to cut for hay at right time, and my soil doesn't carry equipment too well when wet. I mudded that crop out since the oats were starting to mature. Need 4wd to rake that field....

Grass still brown up here in the north. You cut in dough stage?

Clutch dragging?

Guess I already did start prep. Got the baler control box mounted in new tractor. Ordered spare bearings for new to me baler. Did yard adjustments to hitch and rake height on new rotary rake. Calculated how much twine and wrap to buy. As of now I should just have to change oil & knives on the...

I've had many bearings go. I think I've replaced every one on this baler now. Last year one failed bearing turned into 7. The one that failed and smoked, two others that literally fell apart taking the machine apart to replace the first and 4 others that could hardly turn by hand.

Be a while yet for me. Don't have to do a whole lot this year though...at least I hope not.

Does the mower have sales literature that says what PTO HP is needed? A 276 should handle it ok, but how fast you can go will be determined by how heavy/tall the grass is.

That's too bad they couldn't answer basics like the GPM and capacity. Local sales and service are key. I did see a PTO pump 3pt model on my local dealer's lot 2-3 years ago.

Too bad on split fire, I've run a 3pt one for nearly 20 years with zero issues. I didn't have to contact the company, local dealer had them in stock and answers. What couldn't they answer?

Good cordless impact or pneumatic impact saves a lot of work. Nice spinning out 3/4" bolts with no effort. If the impact won't move them, the 3/4 drive breaker bar and cheater piper comes out.

I traded a similar tractor in recently....they had it sold in less than 24 hours so there are some who want them bad.

Dealer should have keys. If it's an open station the key is located in just the right place to get accidentally hit with your leg when turning backwards. I almost broke a key off, it cracked halfway through. Took it to dealer and they got me replacements. Think it was around 17 CDN for pair of...

Looks in good shape, but weathered. I see one remote valve which is a plus. Drawbar looks missing. It's a "farm tractor" not a compact yard tractor so different market audience. 2wd with no loader. It would be a $10,000-11,000 asking price (CDN money) tractor on a lot here. The older...

Princess Auto has them on sale (minus the hoses) By the time I buy all the fittings and assemble it myself it's more money than the completed Vevor one and wouldn't have the leak down valve. I'll have to check where the PA cylinder is made, might be better for longevity.

Anyone have one? I was going to assemble one from parts and saw them on Amazon (CDN money)

I have a smaller open M7040SU, it scales around 7300lb with cast wheels and rear fluid and no loader(mounts still on tractor) Larger M5-111 might get to 10k with cast and fluid all the way around.

M7060 12 speed creeper has 6 speeds 1.04 MPH or less, but that isn't enough selection for OPs application.

Having many speeds under 1 MPH is very specific application for sure. Most utility tractors are lucky to have one gear 1-2 MPH and need creeper trans for rest. I have cattle and make hay and I agree I don't need to worry if I have exactly 5 MPH or if it's 5.1 MPH, I just care I have decent...

I think they all have some sort of "range" control, I am looking for new pickups that give actual manual control like the M mode in my 2011 F150. It will stay in the gear shown in the dash until you shift, or you do something like come to a stop in high gear and it drops to the right gear to...

So both have "range" mode, my Ford will do that in D using the +/- switch. Fully automatic in the range of gears i.e 1-4 but you can't force an upshift, just a downshift. I've only towed in "M" so couldn't even comment on how the tow/haul etc even works on mine.

Needing a low profile tractor certainly limits what will work for you for sure. Not sure if any CVT tractors built would even fit that. Sounds like Kubota gear drive doesn't have your application in mind.

If you need hydrostatic "like" above 60 HP you may have to go to a CVT transmission. There was another thread going that said the Fendt 200 series was the smallest with CVT, you had to go 150 HP or so to get it otherwise. I have Kubota with Hydraulic Shuttle and it works well, no clutching...

MX6000 I think.

I'd prefer to have a manual transmission...but everything is automatic now. My current 2011 F150 with 6R80 has "M" on the shifter. Using "M" the transmission behaves like a powershift tractor with instant, firm shifts, up or down, when driver wants using +/- Looking at 2020+ model year...

If it's hooked up "correctly" your remote should be in neutral to let your loader valve work. There are four positions on the remote lever. UP NEUTRAL DOWN FLOAT If you are plugged it into the remote itself (or did some creative plumbing under the sheet metal) You might need the remote in...

I have been buying "under 2 inch " gravel by the truck load. Mixture of fines and up to 2" crushed rock. Eliminates far worse ruts than you have, i.e. ruts so deep the front axle of my 70 HP tractor drags. Dig down the slop, pack the 2" in, sets solid and isn't loose, will even grass over a...

2040 is 40 PTO HP and live PTO. If you are making paths, you will always be taking full width. You'll need at least 6 foot wide if you can narrow tractor up, 6.5 foot (78") probably best. If you are planning to go into the fields in tapping season to clear 2 feet of packed snow that has never...

Turn your body in the seat so your head only has to turn partway. Wind is harder to "feel" inside. I used open station tractors for years on snow blower. Best option for seeing well is hydraulic deflector, you can point the tip down and keep the snow out of the air to start with.

Old thread, but go down in the same gear you can go up in, better chance your brakes will hold and do more than lock your wheels up. I have many, many, hours doing road haulage with brakeless wagons that weighed more than the tractor pulling them. A lot of it with 2wd tractors and...

Did you run antigel in your fuel? Your filters might be waxed if your fuel had gelled, they might be plugging off the fuel supply. I'd change the filters and see if that cures it.

I'm curious how the full frame size Kubota tractors (M7 & M8 series) stack up to the Deere/CNH/Agco lines versus the larger Utility minded Kubota (M5 & M6 series) Farms are smaller here and utility class makes up a lot of farms. The largest farms doing lots of forage and crop work are running...

I think it's a matter of how many hours you are running a year. I'm not going to knock any of them being a bad tractor, but no one commercially farming buys any of those makes around here. They are aimed more at the non agricultural / hobby owner, and tend not to be available traditional...

These Fendt 200 series are in Canada: https://www.agdealer.com/detail/1331631/used-2016-fendt-209-tractor https://www.agdealer.com/detail/1309974/new-2024-fendt-211-vario-tractor https://www.agdealer.com/detail/1321779/new-2025-fendt-211-vario-tractor

Might be starving for fuel...did it start doing this in cold weather? are the fuel filters new?

I run an MS362 as well and that heavily influenced me getting this one. Nice having two identical bars & chains. The older MS362 has the carb adjust holes on the side where the MS362C is mtronic.

I was looking at new saws last month. Was comparing Echo CS620P, Husqvarna 562XP and Sthil MS362C. I did not care for the air filter set up or controls on the Echo CS620P. Stihl had a sale on and the MS362C was $20 more than an Echo CS620P and $200 cheaper than the 562XP. Sale was so...

Basically a "7LL" then. U pattern OD on this example.

I was in a 6 speed Mack one time, 5 speed in reverse.

Got me curious, looks like the T14607B is fully synchronized single range and was used in school bus applications.

If this is a one time job, far less headache having someone come with a skidsteer loader and hyd auger.

This pattern the pattern? https://www.ebay.com/itm/292970874607?msockid=0fc18f9b25b06546241b9bbe249a64a2

Sounds like bad battery, especially since your car tried to die boosting it.

I have same tractor/loader. 8500lb with cast wheels and fluid. Loader seems strong enough to me, pins in "power" position and only time it doesn't lift is when I have way too much in the bucket (wet mud or pen pack manure)

Does it try to crank, or just nothing when you turn the key? Water separator draining should not affect anything unless you bumped some wires and now the starter doesn't "know" to work now.

If you are only doing a few holes you might get away with a cheap one. I have a Woods PD95.50 and it wasn't cheap, but the gear box and augers seem the same as the cheaper ones. The "factory" auger is identical to the cheap ones Princess Auto carries.

They will with an extension. The regular augers only go down about 42", even though they call them "48 inch" I can get almost 5 feet with this.

M7060 will handle it fine as you state. It's more so the weight and stability of the tractor than the HP. I ran a 5 pot on a well ballasted (heavy) older 42 PTO HP utility for years, mower said 40 PTO HP required. I had one dealer tell me it was impossible to run a disc mower on that tractor...

I have a 6-speed car. Only have an automatic pickup because there aren't any manuals left in the rust belt.

That era should have the shuttle lever on the floor next to the seat, dry clutch and synchro shuttle. Might be something faulty on the forward side of the shuttle. I don't think the powershuttle (column shift) was available then unless you had it in Europe well before we did.

Dry clutch tractor.

Kubota M5660SU if the size isn't to large. Hydraulic shuttle, no clutch pedal needed to shift F-R. I have a larger one with zero issues so far on the shuttle.

Probably worth $200 before they painted it.

Dealer can do creep at any time. I didn't opt for creeper but I asked. Adding park a different story. I have 12 speed with park and using park is somewhat slower than locking the brakes on the 8 speed. Main appeal for me is it is impossible to drive with the parking brake on.

I don't recall seeing reference to creeper in my M7040SUHD book. The current M5660SU appears to have the same "back end" as the M7040SU and no creeper option listed. The M7060 is dealer install kit and is just another position on the range stick and updated sticker/decal.

Cracked shifter boots won't hurt a thing on a 685. The shifters aren't on the transhousing, they are linkage on top of sheet metal. I have a 95 series that didn't even come with shifter boots from new.

Sounds like your clutch is not releasing fully....time for clutch job.

2wd...easy yes. 4wd...what is your front tire size? The op manual should have allowable combinations. You may or may not have to change your front tires to match.

Good luck, very ambitious project. Be interesting to see the finished product.

Regular cab is fleet and old man truck only now. I farm with reg/8 box and crew/6 3/4 box I will say a four door crew cab is essential for me, so nice to have the whole back seat as a locking and dry place to put hand tools when working away from the shop. 6 3/4 foot box is plenty large for...

A few hundred, farmed it all with a 50 HP 2wd loader tractor for many years. My point is not to rule out a bigger 2wd loader tractor if the price is right and it will physically fit where you need it to go. The weight and larger tires will offset the lack of front drive wheels compared to...

I feel I could do more with a 60 HP Utility 2wd loader than a 25HP Compact 4wd loader.

I could use, at times, a skidsteer or telehandler, but I definitely would not own one instead of a tractor for general farm use.

Both are solid, the 1290 is way older and less power, non syncronized trans. CaseIH ditched the Case based 90/94 series and kept the IH based 84/85/95 series well into the 1990s. I still run a 495, they still hold up today and are well built and do anything a new tractor that size can do...

Budget plays a big role here. Size is the next, do you have to fit it in door ways or in buildings? A 695 would do everything fine if it fits and play with a 5 or 6 foot bushog/topper. 695 built in UK too.

Many powershuttle transmissions, if not all, do not hold the tractor when engine off and transmission in gear.

Rust belt stuff limits you to old stuff that is now in "collector condition" and priced as such. Best bang for buck are ex fleet trucks, might have a ton of miles usually new enough not to be rotten. White 8 foot bed regular cab gas 1/2 and 3/4 tons. Most are 4x4 too.

If you have another tractor you may also be able to use extension hoses to power the "dead" loader with the other tractor, at least enough to dismount it the normal way, then pull the dead tractor away from the parked loader.

The rod on the LA1153 & LA1154 loaders is useful, it sits in a groove when level. I have it calibrated for materials bucket but it's very close for my others. Only takes a few seconds to adjust it anyways.

What model of loader? Mine the bucket has to be tilted all the way back, and held all the way back for a couple of seconds, to trigger the mechanism. Do your pins move easily by hand? Only time I've had issues is if mud/manure/ice is in the pins and the springs can't overcome the extra...

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. You had the real large M series didn't you?

I'd just buy a diesel tractor. Small 2wd diesel utilities from the 70s and 80s aren't exactly highly desired models now.

Concern with the plug? It's fused at 25 amps and I can buy the plug end that fits it for $25 or so. Open tractor I ran direct from the battery using the provided inline 30amp auto reset breaker. I can certainly wire the cab tractor that way, just was trying to save some clutter in the cab...

Anyone mount a round baler control box in an M7060 cab? Been looking at either door post clamps or magnetic mounts, looking to see what others have done. Also planning to power it with the 25 AMP plug in the cab versus running direct from the battery. Had the control box on open tractors...

Maybe I missed it, but a bad battery will cause all kinds of weird stuff, including not being able to boost it. Clean the connections good, and I'd try a different battery before chasing wires and switches.

Using hole 2, which is what the book says to use for "heavy soil" on the chart on the book. (I am clay soil) I might try hole 3 and see if it makes a difference. Ground frozen up now so be the spring before I get back to it.

It would be slid on the shaft with the bolt holding it. Guessing it's rusted hard after many years. I wonder if the washers are intentionally welded on the impellor (not the shaft) to limit how far the impellor can be pushed on.

Sounds like that is how the Kubota one might work. One MF model for example you left the position control lever all the way up, raised and lowered the plow with the draft lever, stopping the draft lever where you wanted the plow down to, it then would react automatically.

I had the "lock out" in both settings, no difference, it is top link sensing, as was the draft control on other non Kubota tractors I've plowed with. Kubota might work different, but I normally just use position control since I plow sod and like it uniform.

Anyone use draft control on M7060 or similar? I didn't find it did anything while moldboard plowing. Other draft control tractors I've plowed with the draft lever could be used to raise and lower the plow. I moved the lockout on the back by the top link as per the book. I tried both the...

Makes sense, my square ones are "rectangles" for the phase.

Old post...but I'll respond anyways. I went from a 2000 7.3 diesel 6-speed to 2011 3.5 Ecoboost automatic. I towed the same trailers and loads (sub 10k) No difference in power. Smaller brakes, but I never had an issuer. Lighter suspension so you may need to watch tongue weight more. I...

The 553 was the first quick attach loader for that series, sort of a big brother to the slow attach 512. The 520M was the newest upgrade. I had spec'd out a 5075E with 553 loader a few years back and didn't see anything wrong with 553.

I did the same thing, the MK Martin deflector is built the same manual or hydraulic. I used a regular 8" implement cylinder.

Have you been stuck in the fiasco that was on the 102 near Truro? One single file lane of cars backed up blocking two exits at times. If both lanes were full and people zipper merged properly it wouldn't be several km of block up.

It's all about mutual respect. Too many think driving is a race or competition. Zipper merge works perfect for those who know how to drive. If you are the type that gets mad because someone passes you or merges ahead of you, then you are the problem.

What mount do you use for the fire extinguisher? Looks like something I want for my baler.

Don't think I'd want 14k on a half ton. I have a smaller than that cattle trailer and it handles that one fine. My old 2011 turns around 1900 RPM in 6th gear @ 70 MPH towing and will do it all day. I run in "M" and skip the tow/haul crap. Ford did design these to run hard at low RPM within...

The 2011 3.5 ecoboost peak torque is 420 ft/lb at 2500 RPM, exactly the RPM my old 7.3 Powerstroke came alive at. Not sure the duty cycle / cooling for a Ecoboost running max capacity all day every day.

I'd just use a square on that fits. The dimensions sound right for it. Not sure on the "extra" grooves.

I've driven many types and had the following on the place: 1) Driveline brake separate from foot brakes 2) Small finger latch on brake pedals that locks foot brakes on 3) Large ratcheting hand lever with linkage that locks foot brakes on 4) Park position on transmission separate from foot...

I change plugs when engine hot, helps the rubber be soft. I tore a boot once on the plug and had fun picking it apart with needle nose pliers so I could put the socket on it and not lose pieces in the head.

Hardest part is getting the connectors off the coil packs where needed.

I haven't come across any OEM tires on any make or model of new pickup (other than something like TrailBoss that comes on 3PMS Duratracs) that has a tire suitable for snow.

Holding gas pedal to floor while cranking, engine won't touch off until you let go of gas pedal. The good oil filters with a decent oil checkvalve largely stop any oil issues from dry start up.

My timing chain was done around 210,000 km (130,000 miles) Independent shop did it for under 3K. Mechanic thought motor had never been touched before that. The chain was well worn, tensioner was fully extended, but the truck ran well enough to tow. Was throwing codes and had boost lag bad...

I was terrified of the issues as well and bought a well used one. These are great engines, my experience based on the original ecoboost found in my 2011. I was going from an older diesel with manual transmission and liked the diesel like torque curve and select shift transmission of the...

Wow. You've had bad luck twice. Ouch.

I have one tractor with park and it says not to park on on a slope. I assume for this reason. Sort of a pain, most tractors you set the brake and you are good. Hope you get it fixed, sounds like a lot of work.

Your front end spindles won't like that, the mounts and camber aren't correct when upside down.

I have an 11. 1) Drill weep hole in the intercooler, solves most misfire issues. (free) 2) Run iridium plugs (Ford ones) and change often. Less than $100 CDN to change DIY, solves all other misfire issues. 3) Frequent oil changes, it's cheap (Less than $50 CDN for synthetic oil and filter on...

Yes, road lighting and turn signals etc. 25 MPH transport speed to stay within SMV territory too.

I always thought this as well, I have few thousand black top road miles on a set of R1W radials and still lots of tread, I'd estimate 80% plus tread left.

Send it.

What is your road speed with your DK45? I would not hesitate that run a couple times a year IF your roads are smooth and you are semi rural and you can do 18 MPH plus. I put a few hundreds miles a year on blacktop with tractor, including in town with intersections, crosswalks, school kids...

Every dealer different of course, but I have found tractor dealers more geared to all in pricing and cash sales with no nonsense versus car dealer games and added on junk fees and games. Can still buy on a handshake in some cases.

Exactly, pay new price and get it new direct from dealer. There is quite a large sales tax here on things (15%) People will buy something new for say $2000, pay $300 tax for a total of $2300 then try to sell it $1900 "cash no tax private sale" as if $400 is this huge discount on a used machine.

Should not flow out when tractor is off. If you have the length, tie it up in the air so it's the highest point in the system.

I sold a 13 run drill to a guy who drove several hours to get it. Loaded it crossways on a U-Haul open top cargo trailer. We unbolted the hitch and he left with it.

I am a Euro/Global person. I would convert both loaders to Euro and convert your existing attachments to Euro, then buy everything new Euro. I would buy HLA, I have HLA attachments and I am very happy with them. Same could be done with skidsteer if you are wanting to go that way. 500...

There are few longer term dealers with them here, but mainly subcompact. Don't really see many utility size ones.

I think you found a winner, checks all your boxes. Krone is good equipment.

I rake right before baling, if it's not ready to bale it stays in the swath. Isn't fun to rake the field, get it rained on, have to ted it out, then re rake a day or two later. Cheap option with zero road issue is 10' 3pt two rotor. Perfect for spreading a windrow at time too. Might look...

Rossi sizes: Not sure how far you have to road, my Kubota has 16x16.5-8, it pulled zero issue behind my pickup at 25 MPH from the dealer, was a long drive home so a good test. Seems to me they are actually trailer service tires. I am on blacktop almost every trip to the field with the tractor...

Tedder lets you turn and fluff the hay so the "bottom" hay comes to the top, but is still spread out wide to dry in the sun & wind. Normally you use on hay after it is mowed to speed up drying. I normally ted once, even for haylage, since it gains me half a day minimum for little time spent...

Likely be doable, but just cheaper the buy a wider unit by the time you get the power divider unit. I am not aware of any ground drive tedders currently made.

2 rotor brand new, 10" wide. They have a four rotor vertical fold at 19'

Sorry, not able to make it a PDF. Might be able to take some photos if you have any specific questions.

If you run a chain from the plunger out the back of the bale chamber to a handyman jack/jackall you can place a heavy beam across the chamber for the base of the jack to rest and hook the chain to the jack so the jack is pulling the plunger horizontally out the back of the machine. You will need...

Kuhn was actually my original choice for a tedder. They made the Deere and New Holland ones for years. The two rotor Kuhn here lasted almost 40 years and I only replaced it since the gearbox shaft it needed (OEM part was still available from local dealer) was 10 days out in the middle of an...

For 10k and very little use you can make a few extra passes. I am actually tedding 20 feet of hay with my 17 footer the way my swathes lay. 10 acres an hour travelling 5 MPH. The Italians build a lot of hay gear, some gets badge engineered. I know both Agco and NH badge engineered some...

Used market might have better pricing options for sure. Kuhn

I'm in the same boat if I get a bigger mower, I can do three small swaths perfectly, tractor tires never drive on the untedded hay first pass. I used to run a small two rotor, did a swath and a half at time. Might be an option, not sure how often you ted, but the price jump from the 4 rotor is...

I would buy a Kubota one again. I have a 4 rotor one (17' 1") now and I am very happy with it. It has smaller tires but roads fine. I actually pulled it home from the dealership with a pickup. Kubota has a 24' 11" model. TE6576CD, that model has the larger transport wheels and all.

I am in eastern Canada. I've used timers on two different diesels, one tractor and one truck. Had a mechanical timer set to run one hour before feeding time on loader tractor. Tractor has a recirculating heater. Never failed to start. I've also plugged same tractor in 30 minutes and it was...

I have now sat on both, air suspension certainly nicer. Air seat is dealer installed option and can be retrofitted at anytime as well.

Is the air seat worth the extra cost on M7060 cab model? I know the price difference (few hundred) and I understand the actual seat is the same and just the suspension is switched out. Mainly haying use (4-8 MPH travel speed) and road work.

The 12 speed also has a bigger capicity hydraulic pump. I read a few comments and saw a video claiming the 12 speed had troubles compared to the 8. Here is the gear comparison, 12 speed "100%" is from the op manual on 16.9-30, 8 speed is the op manual speeds adjusted to be for 16.9-30 from...

I'm somewhat lucky I rarely have to change range while working. Only time I wished for a lower gear in high range was hauling two loaded wagons of hay out of a field at the bottom of that a hill that H1 was didn't have enough power to pull it out. L4 worked fine.

That what I don't want to happen to me, regret not getting the right gearbox. I am planning to buy new so I want to do it once, but I do have a budget. Yes 12 speed is way faster on the road than 8, 6.3 MPH according to the speed charts I have.

I normally start in H1 (5th) and progressively shift 1 2 3 4. I have some grades I do have to downshift on as well, drop a couple gears to keep moving My speed chart says 19 something MPH, but that is at 2600 RPM, and my tach reads 2800 where the needle stops. I use every MPH when I have to...

Interesting on price on MF. I see two ratings for the 4707 is 57 PTO HP and 60 PTO HP. I have a really good Kubota dealer and have had really zero issues with the current orange one. Most, if not all, M7060s on the lot have cast wheels and wide metric radials so usually way nicer rubber...

They are both hydraulic shuttle, and yes, that is a must for me. Zero issues with current 8 speed hydraulic shuttle. I road a lot so the 12 speed appeals there. Creeper is something that I haven't missed really.

I'm leaning towards the 12 speed 7060, 8 would "do the job" so I want to get some real world local numbers. Taking my time on this one, hoping to do some dealer visits and also check out MF, CIH/NH and Deere for comparison. Kubota easily won that with the current tractor though.

I think you are right on the size. The small CaseIH here is open station, the European version could be had with AC cab, which was not even an option over here. A 7060 size tractor is a toy to most farms here, yet it's big enough for me.

We get the M4071 here, it's "fancier" and way more money than the M7060. Those are all 12 speed, no dual speed option that I can see here.

Mystery to me too. I've driven lots of triple stick tractors, partial range powershifts, full powershifts and all have been 12 to 24 speeds not counting creepers. The basic utility models seem to be 8 speed for whatever reason. There were three 8 speed tractors on the place at once too.

For field work it's three for me, L4, H1, H2 so your logic does work. I agree on having slow gears too, I use L1 for a lot of tight quarters work. I do a lot of road work all four gears in high range get used, but H4 is used for the duration of travel.

I do smaller fields and the crop is usually consistent, or raked so the windrows are consistent, so one speed works. I used to shift up and down a lot, but after I started wrapping everything I opted to go a little slower to make as tight of bales as possible. Range change is a full stop on...

That is my worry, save some $$$ and always wonder if I should have got it. EPTO should help on the fuel savings. I have heard the DPF tractors use a little more fuel than the non DPF like I have now.

That was something I was concerned with, but I currently run L4 baling which is close to L5 on the 6-speed on full 540 vs 540E so a gear faster without range change. I am "overpowered" on PTO HP for my small hay gear so 540E might be the main thing to consider. Looks like all 12 speeds are...

I round bale and generally just stay in one gear, when I square baled I shifted a lot and I see the 12 speed gives a better spread at those speeds. Tractor will be doing mainly field work and haulage so the 12 speed is quite appealing. I will likely get a loader on it, but loader would be off...

Looking at speed chart the two travel speeds I'd use the most mowing hay I'd shift between are L6 to H1 so two lever throws, unless I run 540E then the shift is H1 to H2 . My current 8 speed tractor is H1 to H2, as is the 7060 8 speed. I'm still leaning to the 12.

Both are hyd shuttle, seems 3pt and hy capacity are the same.

Not that I can see, I believe the front axle electrically engages when you push the brake pedals to give 4 wheel braking.

Looking at M7060s. 12 speed has park position, 62 PTO HP, electric 4wd shift, 24 MPH top speed 8 speed with foot pedal brake lock, 64 PTO HP, manual 4wd lever, 18 MPH top speed. Any other differences? Other than less $$$, any advantage to the 8-speed?

That 8160 is likely preemissions so that might be a bonus. Kubota would be my pick. TYM isn't something I'd gamble on personally.

I am not sure why they thought that design was a good idea. The pins are pretty well idiot proof, that latch looks like a failure waiting to happen.

Was a guy here that bought nice old original implements and resold them, painted them all the same color, never masked off anything i.e. rubber or decals etc. Totally ruined them and put them for sale. I was at an auction sale once and a nicely painted manure spreader was there....painted right...

Far better design and used on bigger tractors. I have a factory Global/Euro mount, one lever to disconnect, self latching to connect so no getting off seat to latch bucket. Added on adaptor might be manual on and off. I have HLA attachments, very happy with quality.

Simple and will work just fine...just a lot more leg work and slower. I ran a dry clutch tractor with an unsynchronized F-R lever for years, I got along just fine. I clutched well over 1000 times one day hauling and stacking round bales, right leg had to hold tractor with brake pedal during the...

Contact HLA (Horst Loader Attachments) they may be able to help. I'd go with a Euro/Global one myself.

Something made fuse blow. Going to guess there is a damaged or bare wire somewhere. Putting fuse in a few times may have finished the job so it's not running current anymore.

No clutch needed for shuttle. I load bales on wagons, manure in spreader etc and rarely touch clutch pedal.

I'm thinking that is a KMW loader. It's old enough that the QA is proprietary so only attachments made for that loader work with it.

Local dealer is selling them, I have no hands on with them. I'm pretty sure the 7 series is built in France versus Japan like the smaller ones.

Found an ALO Quicke Catalog. For Q41 loader: M108S and M96S use the same mount 14323344, M6S-111 uses 14329257 mount.

I've had good luck with Rock Auto. Hope it stays that way after reading this.

Yes, ends up being the same price. That rule pretty well killed the 40-60 size utility tractor Only winner is HST registrant that actually needs 55 HP tractor.

All the newer Kubota loaders are just scaled in size by power range, all look the same. I am guessing LA2253 / LA2255 just bigger for the large M125/126 tractors. X for powershift :-) Those were Tier III tractors?

Thanks, this is excellent information. Just shopping and came across a few M108SDSC with no loaders and a complete LA1944 loader with M6S-111 mounts. Wondering if the LA1944 is closer to the LA1403 than the LA2255. Does look like the frame rails are different between the two tractors.

M4-071 a little larger in power and closer to 10 k decked out, but they have buddy seat.

What is the big difference? Looks similar in the cab, same engine size. I read the M6S-111 replaced the M108S. Also wondering if the chassis is the same for loader mounts.

Moly grease is supposed to last better for pivot applications but will not work in bearings or spinning applications. I use NLGI 2 high temp in my grease gun, use it on loader too. Gave up on the moly after the first tube.

I am running a 495, next size up and one series newer. It has had Walmart universal tractor fluid in it for at least 10 years with no issue.

Nothing worse than being in a social setting wear everything is "WHAT" "HUH" and someone repeating themselves louder and louder, or someone else randomly talking loudly enough to drown out the current conversation because they can't hear that people are talking to each other already. "Forgot to...

You need to be able to lift the mower. Would not be impossible to fab something to the back of an A. I'd take the mower anyways and figure it out. Good excuse to buy something with a 3pt

2wd loader tractors here tri-ribs. Old pickup truck tires also made cheap front end tires for loader tractor back when 15" was common on pickups.

I've been to Kensington Ag several times looking at things, used lot is tidy and organized. Have not bought anything from them though. I did have them tell me they won't sell anything NEW off island, used is no issue. The front mount / rear / butterfly mower units are quite popular with the...

It's a Mitsubishi built tractor which should be very common worldwide, can't think of any reason the rad cap would be special.

If you can spin the stick it's going to jam. I could never "make" it jam, darn well would jam in forward gear when facing a building or fence too. Limped it home one time in 4th gear to unstick it. Hired help and a crash box transmission won't mix on a good day. Good thing those 240s are so...

If in doubt stay off it, expensive and urgent problem to fix when it doesn't work.

I eliminated my 240 gear sticking issues by loosening the nut on the shifter lever and rotating it slightly. My shifter was "crooked" and it would jam, especially during a 4th to R shift in low range. I assume years of use caused it to pivot a little. I shift it a lot when I am using it...

Looks like it's not a convertible II to I hitch then. Certainly an unusual setup.

I'm going to guess it's not going to fit, it needs a "taller" tractor.

15.4 GPM pump on tractor running wide open will keep three men busy and the wedge never stops :-)

Splitfire

230 older model, basic model of 235 245 family. US built 231 newer model, basic model of 240. UK Built. 231S was Polish.

The pairing is how almost every Kubota dealer here started. The Kubota business grew so much that they either dropped the "original" brand or branched off to separate orange buildings/business. One Kubota dealer I use still has all the CaseIH parts manuals and carries some parts even though...

Might be regional, at least here almost every Kubota dealer WAS a "mainline" dealer for decades. One was JI Case/New Holland (pre Ford New Holland) then CaseIH/Kuhn and now just Kubota, another chain was International/CaseIH now Kubota, another chain Massey Ferguson/AGCO and Kubota. Again, full...

I agree, support needed if you can't do it yourself. Might be regional, most Kubota dealers around here are full line and very much into the Ag side of it versus the homeowner/grounds care. Kubota hay equipment has been out a few years and they have been pushing it heavy, keeping in mind it's...

Nice, makes it easy when you've got a little splitting to do and already something on the 3pt. I have the same 203 splitter here, it stays on it's own tractor while I'm in the splitting season.

This is true. I hay to feed cattle, which in turn generate manure which gets spread on the field. The fields that get manured every year yield very well, the ones that don't, need fertilized, limed reseeded.

Exactly. I mowed one field 9-10pm, was baling it 11 am the next morning. Was a clear windy night. I do use a tedder, mainly since it gains me a few hours and ensures it's all mixed uniformly (not dryish on top, wet on bottom)

Here it goes into the "garbage"

If you wrap and sell you pretty well have to individual wrap and use a bale grabber, so more $$. At least here plastic is on par, or cheaper, than the annual property taxes on a new building big enough to hold the bales, and a wrapper is a lot cheaper than a building. I do know of some...

I'm buying another tractor at some point. I am really torn between buying new or buying something used. In my case, for business so there are some different considerations compared to private use.

No worries. Try Canada? These claim available on Ontario. https://www.agdealer.com/detail/1114121/new-hla-rrg88-grapple https://www.agdealer.com/detail/1200186/used-2021-hla-brg84ao600-grapple

Call HLA and find an HLA dealer. They make them. https://hlaattachments.com/cat.php?cat=Grapples They have 84"

Swing your drawbar to one side. I have to do this with several 3pt implements on several tractors so it's not unusual.

Be a feature length film for anything other than brand new gears with no slop and a creeper reverse tractor for almost any operator. I can back two empty wagons up if in no rush and in the right mood, but if I have to put both wagons into a barn, I unhitch and back one at a time.