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Thanks, that could come in handy down the road. But it explicitly states for bolt/nut applications, not tapped holes. Plus with a gasket involved…I’m guessing that changes things.

Tylertown...I know it's been a while but...PICs would be super helpful. Mine is a '72. I was told (incorrectly) by the original owner that it was a '70. But for sure it's '72. -Tom

I just replaced the neutral safety switch. Hardest part of the job was getting the cover back on and everything aligned properly and keeping the darn gasket in place (and clean). I have the bolts snugged down and verified that the new switch works. The old one was intermittent, so hopefully...

OK, I'm reviving my old thread, since I have purchased the gasket and rebuild kit for the lift cover. I want to make sure I have the steps to pull it apart identified. 1) remove the seat (tips on getting in there? Not much room) 2) remove the hydraulic remote assembly 3) Remove the pin...

My throttle is not staying put. It sure seems as if it is snug/tight, but it slowly revs down, and won't stay where I put it. I actually have a NOS fiber friction washer that my father in law gave me when he gave us the tractor. Is there any more to installing this other than removing the...

OK, some news. I was mowing too low. I set the blade height to 5-6", and it really tears through the heavy brush and small trees now. Other issues: I had the rear of the brush hog too high. It was more like 3" higher than the front. I brought it down closer to level, but still higher than...

I will check higher RPMs tomorrow. It’s been in the 90s here…fords do t seem to like heat. What I do know is that when I increase RPM, it seems to slow down by 100 rpm after a few seconds. So I have to overshoot my target by at least 100rpm. Regarding blades: I was under the impression...

I purchased a replacement top link. You were right, cheap and easy. Not much point fighting with the original for $29. I'm still not feeling as if it's cutting great. I do notice that the RPM tends to creep down as I cut. I set it to 1800, it creeps down to 1400. My Throttle is not loose...

I have that cap, yes. If I can sell it to any of you for a zillion dollars, I’m all for that. Honestly I believe the made in China crap they sell today can be more work (and time) than repairing parts from my 45 year old Ford. That’s the real reason.

I'm cheap. :) I'll pull the top link, and bring to to the local stores and see if I can match it up. I just (maybe wrongly) assume that some of these parts could be specific to Ford.

Yes, that's my post as well. I've had that issue since I've owned the tractor. (PTO still turns slowly, even when disengaged)

Tuned up about 2 years ago (new points, coil, filters, etc.) Seems to run strong. I had removed the brushhog to box blade (with help from father in law), and that's what got me thinking...were adjustments made to the 3point settings to accomodate the box blade. I honestly don't recall. Like...

Maybe, but it just seems to be bogging down a lot more than the first few years I owned it. I cut in 4th gear mostly, and that hasn't changed. I know that a brush hot is not supposed to cut clean, so I'm not thinking It's blade sharpening. Gearbox looks OK, oil level OK. We have a LOT of...

And does it matter what oil is in there now? A full oil and filter change, no worries about flushing out previous (possibly non synthetic?) oil? I assume tractors built in 2006 (ish) all use synthetic, so probably not an issue - just asking.

Also, I'm pretty good with fixing things...and I have an engine hoist, and a ton of tooling, so I'm not afraid to tackle a tractor split, but having never done it...could use some advice and guidance.

I know that my clutch is getting worn - need to really push it all the way down to keep a few gears from grinding when going into gear. I only put 50-60 hours per year on it, so I've been hesitant to do the clutch until it really needs it. So please forgive my ignorance, but...how much of...

long time since I first posted this...I really want to get back to addressing the issue. Does this require splitting the tractor, or can it be done easier? Sorry the pics above are helpful, but I'm not sure exactly how to go about checking the spring and re-seating (or replacing it) if needed...

Without buying oil at 2x the price at a dealer, what do most of you use for your small JD diesel tractors? I have a 2305 and an x745 mower. Yanmar 24HP engines (as I recall). We live in Missouri, summer mowing can be in the 90's, and the tractors get little use after November, so I don't worry...

I have a Ford 5000. I am fairly new to tractors (7'ish years), so forgive me if this is a newbie question. See my pics below - I'm trying to get an optimal angle on my brushhog (84"), so that it won't bog down the tractor. I can't adjust the center link much more (mashed threads!), so am I...

I have a 647 rotary tiller. I run it on a JD 2305, and it does a fantastic job. I have some questions. Is this model supposed to come with the adjustable skid shoes, or are they an option? also, I shorten my upper 3pt arm as much as possible, but it won’t quite bring the tiller to level...

It’s a 1972, actually. (I was given incorrect information from the original owner)

Hello, I've searched the forums, and can't seem to find a similar post, but please let me know if I missed something. When I disengage the PTO on my ford5000 (rear, running an 84" landpride brushhog), the PTO shaft still spins, although slower. You can clearly hear it spin up when you engage...

Here are the detailed pics. Any idea what the pin is on TOP, just behind the quick-release cable? It looks like a taper pin - I didn't get under the tractor to get a look from that angle (yet). -Tom

Can anyone point me in the direction of disassembly/repair tips for the extendable lower draft arms on a Ford 3 point system? There is a ball that can be pulled, to allow you to extend the lower arms to help connect your implement. It seems that the ball is connected to some aircraft cable...

Does anyone have a source for a distributor cap for a ford 5000, 4cyl? Mine needs replacement - top "post" (that touches top of rotor) has a chunk broken off. Still works, but I see the end may be near. I find them online for $98. None of the automotive stores I have tried have anything...

This may seem like a silly question, but I'm several hundred miles away from the tractor, and I need to bring the tools needed to change the front wheels. They kept going flat (**** Osage Orange trees...), so I have a second set that is filled with stiff foam to prevent flats. I have a 1/2"...

I have been troubleshooting a charging problem on a JD2305. Found out that I could jumper two wires on the K3 safety relay #1, and now the battery shows that it is charging. Still can't get the battery lamp to illuminate. (on another working JD2305, this lamp should light for a few seconds...