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I have a triple mast carriage from an old forklift we scrapped at work, even has side shift. Making it a 3pt mount is on my list of things to do. I need it for the height as my actual forklift is only a 2 stage. And I want to use it to set the roof beams on my new shop, need to get off my butt...

Discount hydraulic hose will assemble hoses for a relatively small fee, the longer hoses will save you more as it's a flat fee and the price of the house itself is lower.

You could undo the arms and pin/tie them up, but the rockershaft still has to move in order for the deck to go down, unless you just limit the 3pt to keep the arms off the ground but allow the deck to set on the height adjuster.

I bought a crimper a few years ago, it's paid for itself already with all the custom hoses I've made for my equipment and various projects. Has also gotten me out of a jam more then once when a hose blew on a Saturday evening and needed to finish a job. Saves a lot of money and frustration...

I prefer Hot Shot Secret everyday treatment, use to use Power Service but switched after seeing results from independent testing. I always heard good things about Howes, but the testing results didn't impress me.

Most likely uses notched shanks with a bar that has the wedges welded to it. Thats how my box blade is. Hard to see in this picture, but might give you an idea.

Menards 18x14 insulated 6.5 r value. $3760 18x13 is the same price.

Menards has the best pricing I've found on larger garage doors. I recently bought 2 14x14 and 1 12x12 all insulated, for my new shop. At least your in their territory, I have to drive 4hrs away to get to one.

Got to test it out on an old poplar stump this evening, very happy with the rippers performance. Was even able to test the thumb with it. The disturbed area is way less than with a bucket, which is why I wanted the ripper. The stump was a bit old and starting to rot so I'm curious to see how...

The ripper and thumb are mounted, can't wait to try them out! Of course, as soon as I went to use it, the right stabilizer cylinder started pouring fluid. Went to the local hyd shop today and matched up some seals, bought double as I'm sure the left cylinder won't be far behind.

I use a 7ft Land Pride RBT4084 behind my 70in wide L3240. For dirt work I like the 7ft, if I was mainly using it for snow or lose materials, then an 8ft might be better when angled. The 7ft covers my track as long as I'm not fully angled. Weight is also your friend, my blade is over 800lbs...

I've had my Makita 6401 for a while and have been wanting to upgrade to the 79cc P&C for a while. I started looking for a second saw years ago but nothing was showing up localy for a decent price. Well, a few months ago clean 6421 came up for sale locally for a great price so I grabbed it...

Lighter duty trailer with proper axle placement would be perfectly fine, actually safer than the equivalent tag trailer. While the options for lighter goosnecks aren't as many, they do exist.

That weird, maybe someone changed mine out, although it was burned pretty good before I got it so who knows whats been done to it.

Prior to having a Speed Feed head I probably would have preferred the head with replaceable pieces, Speed Feed is a game changer, especially if you are trimming against rough edges like concrete/stone/asphalt and wearing down the line quickly.

It's a parallel circuit, not in series, it is also a light, not the older style heater coil type. The glow plugs can still work without the light working.

It was some oddball shaft material I had, 2 7/16, that was drilled out and machined for 1 5/8od x 2" bronze bushing.

Back from paint! Not pictured is the cylinder for the thumb. Have to clean out the bushings and they'll be ready to mount. I'm going to give it a couple weeks to let the paint cure (should be 6 weeks, but I'm not that patient). I have a few things to adjust on the thumb controls, so will work...

Thats pretty cool, I never knew Bradco offered a TLB, thought they only ever did attachments. I guess they didn't sell a lot, never seen or heard of one until now.

Around here, not a lot. They were very common and a lot built. In this area it seems everyone had a 2n/8n/9n or a A-C B

It is a cast aluminum, repairable, but it sound like you might not have the equipment to do the repair.

Had to finish up a project for someone that I had dragged my feet on, so I haven't gotten the ripper and thumb finished up for paint yet. Hopefully tomorrow. These were the delay, wheel weight brackets for an antique Deutz tractor used for pulling. Did a little customization for them.

Interesting to see the changes they made from the 11 to the 611. I'm kinda glad they went to thread in glands on mine, always hated the wire retained glands!

Yes, they list the model year by serial #

Yeah, that's the only picture I could find online, would like to see a better picture of one in the wild. Mainly want a picture of the cylinder to help though

Do you have any pictures of the cylinder? And the unit itself! Never seen or heard of a Bradco 32tlb.

Model B, made from 37-57 i believe. Sorry, can't narrow it down from the picture.

One set is on a Jetta and I have a set on a 3/4t truck, not saying bolt in stems aren't a good idea. But using rubber stems isn't an automatic failure. Larger diameter wheels will be effected more, as will higher speeds. That said, all my heavy trailers use bolt in stems anyway, due to pressure...

I was a shop forman a couple years ago for a welding/fabrication shop, we would get truck loads of metals regularly. You think carbon steel is expensive, try having to source US made stainless. That gets expensive fast! We had a job processing 42"x102" 2.5" thick plates, they would come pre cut...

It lays flat, I don't have a qa so if I lay it face down I can line up pivot pin. I have thought about making a stand for it.

If you were closer, and I could justify the cost!

I've been using them on rubber stems without problems, just can't use the long stems and need to not be really old or cheap. I also don't drive that fast either even though I'm mostly on the highway in the Jetta

I've been mostly using leftover and drop materials lately. Need to order a sheet of 1/4" po to have on hand, can't wait to see the price of that.

I still need to add them to my 2 buckets, haven't decided if I want to to shackle mounts or a weld on sling hook.

I've been working on getting everything ready for paint, finished the grease fitting protection. Then, I had the idea to put a shackle mount on the back of the ripper, figured it could come in handy for lifting or pulling. Now I just have to give it a good wire brushing and it should be...

What material was the thread inserts in the sensors? My cheap tpms system had brads thread inserts and brass lock nuts. Unless you have really cheap metal valve stems, they should be brass also, so there shouldn't be any need for anything on the threads.

I'd say that's pretty true of most things, I've had good luck with the Buyers molded connectors and prefer the cold weather type (blue).

My B2620 had quarter inching, the BXxx80 series does also. The Bxx01 that replaced the Bxx20 series has position control. The Bxx30 series, which was replaced by the LX series, had position control also. Except I believe there was a B or LX series SU model that didn't(I just looked it up, it was...

That's one thing I like about my M4711 backhoe (Bradco 611), the bucket cylinder is 3in with a 2in rod! Very stout.

It's area dependent, but 15k would be high here for that without a loader. I recently bought a Bx2680 with ssqa loader, 3rd function, canopy, and 60" deck with 250hrs for 13,400. Like I said though, I don't know what prices are like in your area.

I switched all my trailers over to junction boxes with a one piece molded connector. Way less problems compared to the replaceable end 7pin connectors.

I have those on 2 vehicles, my jetta and 3/4t truck, they work well with a decent refresh rate. The temp/pressure seems to be fairly accurate. The biggest grip I have it that you have to be careful putting the sensors on as it's easy to release more pressure then you want if you don't get then...

It's not for draft control. It's links the throttle to the hst pedal.

It's called Auto-Throttle Advance.

Yup, there's a lot more to the lemon law criteria that I can remember off the top of my head, but yes, it takes a lot more than one problem or defective part!

Test fitted it on the tractor today, happy with its range of motion, so now I just have to finish the welding and add a grease fitting to the pivot. My buddy is on vacation next week, but when he gets back, I'll have him paint the ripper and thumb with a nice industrial paint. Just have a few...

So scrap an entire vehicle because of 1 defective part? Makes total sense. Not enough information to know if damage has occurred or not, you know what assumptions make!

Gerotor oil pumps are usually either fine or have catastrophic failure, such as a broken outer rotor. It could be the pump, but most likely, it's the bypass which is part of the pump.

Most likely it wasn't true zero but extremely low. If it was the service writer is telling you this, I'd take it with a grain of salt as they can be less than accurate with transferring information from the tech. If you are worried then have them send off an oil sample. Depending on what the...

Lemon law pretty much covers problems that can't be fixed or are excessive. Warranty covers defects such as a bad part.

I've been very happy with the cut quality of my Bx2680 with the 60" deck, I also had a bx1870 with 54in deck for a short period of time (it was bought to be sold). Both were excellent mowers. I would say you won't notice a lot of difference with the 54", in fact it seems to mow a little bit...

That's common due to the leverage on the cylinder, unless you have a lock valve. Are you running it vertical? If you're just using it like a normal mower, it should ride on the roller and the front supported by the 3pt. I run my valve in float.

Do you mean the tilt function? Unless you have a lock valve on the cylinder, you will get some leakdown. How are you using your mower? I run my ditch bank with the tilt in float most of the time so it will follow the contour of the ground. If I have to hold it at a certain position, I will need...

I run a 78" on a similar size/weight tractor, a Kubota L3240 with loaded R4's and a loader. I had a very steep road of milling in front of my house (like hard to walk up/down steep) that I had to maintain. The 84" shouldn't be an issue with proper operation , although a smaller boxblade would...

Was able to get a little shop time in today, welded up the shank and mount. Had a little trouble getting the welder dialed in for the 1/4" Hardox, sometimes it can become magnatized when cutting and causes some weird issues. Next I'll be welding the shank to the mount and reaming the bushings...

When I was hauling cars, there was a Wendy's near my local auction that I was able to take my truck and trailer through. F550 with a 50ft wedge trailer! No overhangs and no curbs on the right side. I would also take my F650 rollback through it, but that was less impressive lol.

Machining is done, now I just have to weld it up. My work schedule isn't allowing me as much shop time as I'd like, hopefully I can get started on the welding later this week, going to be a lot of inches of weld!

It does, I still have some finishing touches, but I built one for it earlier this year.

More like just over 7gal, but he said it was a gal low, so closer 6gal. Without knowing compatability of the fluids its a gamble, it might be fine, it might cause damage, guess it just depends on a person's risk tolerance. If it was me, the couple hundred to change it out would be worth it to...

Is it a gear or HST? If gear, I probably wouldn't worry about it. If it's an HST, I would change the fluid out if it was my personal tractor

Thank you

Thanks, and I know. If you're going to call someone out on misspelling one word, you should probably proofread your own post first!

Thanks for the heads up, I corrected it. My phone kept insisting on changing laminated to lamented for some reason. Thought I corrected it but guess my phone still snuck it in. I don't know what "fancy dan equipment" is, but is not a Shop Sabre ("Sabre" is the correct spelling by the way, not...

Was able to get all the mounting parts cut out, all 1/2" except for the spacers for the bushings which is 3/4". Not shown is the peice of round bar for the front pivot bushings. Bradco doesn't make it easy to make buckets/attachments for these hoes! Next up is machining all the holes and the...

It's a Kubota M4711, which is a rebranded Bradco 611. The holes are to allow me to weld the 2 outer layers to the middle layer besides just the perimeter weld. They are probably a little bigger than they need to be, but it won't hurt anything.

Had this project on the list since I got the backhoe a few years ago, finally got around to actually making it. I had been playing with the design off and on for a while, but I'm planning on putting up a new shop soon and will have to do some clearing so would rather rip roots then dig holes...

I just use velcro for strap management, you can buy a 60ft roll of 3/4" for about $13. It's reusable, works for storage and excess strap management. I keep the roll in the truck in case I need extra, just cut off a piece the size you need.

The adjustment is behind the left rear wheel, i just had to do it to my 2680 when I added the deck. There's lots of videos and info on it if you do a search, the earlier BX mowers are the same also.

Have to disagree about the Vulcan cart, I have one I use for my XMT 304 with a 24a feeder. My only complaint is the tank holder is too small for my 300cuft tank, but that's a pretty easy mod. The hangers for the cables are decent, no problem wrapping the 15ft 400a gun up. I bought it open box...

I only use the G6 for leaf cleanup. They were well for breaking up dry leaves for the collector, but they do like to blow out the front a little more if you aren't in grassy area.

I wouldn't recommend closing off the discharge with the G6. They aren't really made for enclosed mulching and, depending on grass type, will have worse performance than regular blades. The G6 will also leave more fine clippings stuck under the deck if the grass is moist at all. If you really...

Really shouldn't run steel wire in your aluminum liner, the steel wire can be pretty dirty and leave contamination in the liner, which can cause issues later when you run aluminum. Even on our Fronius welders that used a traditional spiral metal liner for aluminum, we would have dedicated...

I've run into sae thread fittings on some Kubota loaders since a lot are made in the US, I've had some tractor mounted fittings be metric, especially if it was a Japanese built tractor like the L3540.

I assume you mean a L3540? Are the fittings on the tractor or an attachment like the loader or backhoe?

I always hated using zip ties for the ends, switched over to metal crimp cramps a few years ago. Look much more professional and less likely to fail.

The outer layer on most hyd hoses is marginal at best on UV, some of the more expensive options are better, but I still see a lot of degradation on equipment that sits outside a lot. I now put them on any hose that is exposed to a lot of UV. Secondary advantages are it helps diffuse a stream in...

Scotty, I don't believe the relief in the priority valve is another relief not listed. Going from memory, the priority valve is made into the back of the hyd pump. The relief shown in that diagram of the priority valve is the same as the main relief shown in the overview of the system (after...

And don't forget the pto circuit after the steering but before the filter and hst charge circuit, each with their own pressure relief valve!

We're getting soaked here, the other day we got almost 4in in just over 1hr. I need it to dry out enough so I can mow before it gets too tall.

It's worth doing, I had a hose blow on the loader a few years ago, worst possible time and made a huge mess. Hose didn't look that bad when it went. Decided to change all the loader hoses to avoid future problems. I have a crimper so was able to make all my own hoses, but for an additional $10...

The charge lines pressure relief or the main loader/3pt relief? See item 3 on the diagram Scotty provided earlier.

Exactly, I switch between forks and bucket regularly. Also comes in very handy when loading/ unloading the ssqa implements on and off the trailer when I need to transport or move them around.

Looking at the workshop manual page that was posted, I would start by checking the charge pressure for the HST, looks the relief for it might be sticking. The charge pressure should be fairly low, 1-200psi, but is run off a system that is capable of much more. It's also a possibility that...

The nylon liners are for aluminum, the only machine I know of off the top of my head that uses a metal liner for aluminum is Fronius (excellent machines by the way). Yes the liner can transfer current, but try to strike an arc and you'll quickly be replacing the liner as the wire will arc off...

To the OP, does the filter fail immediately or only after an operation, like driving or turning or using the PTO?

It is, the only cartridge filter is the hst filters, the only other hyd filter is the suction screen. I couldn't remember the exact pressure of the charge circuit but most are only 1-200psi. I would really like to see what the failed filters look like.

I own a PAS266 and have used other Echo pas units, all tighten down on the tool and have no play. On mine, once tight,the pin could be left locked open and it wouldn't make a difference.

I don't think you understand, you don't have to get out of the seat operate the QA, only to switch from QA to remotes which you have to hook up manually anyway.

Something is wrong if the clamp isn't tightening down on the tools shaft, if you weren't able to get it tight and the pin was the only thing holding it I can see where you would be having problems. The pin is only there for rough alignment, not to hold the attachment. Did you address the issue...

Factory relief on the loader circuit is about 1750psi, empty loader lift is maybe a couple hundred psi. The filter on the BX is part of the hst circuit, he'll have to find the test ports on the hst to check those pressures. I haven't had to do pressure test on a BX but I imagine it similar to...

The 4043 is a preferred wire for most general welding on 4, 5 and 6000 series aluminum as long as it's not getting anodized or has a higher strength requirement. 5356 is another common wire for anodized, it doesn't flow as well and is typically is a little stronger/harder. It will also feed...

Not entirely true, while a metal liner may transfer some current to the wire, the contact tip can be the only transfer area. We run full nylon liners on a few welders for aluminum where there is no metal contact until the contact tip, trust me, you don't want much current transfer through the...

They will probably either not rent them in those states or require that they only be towed by one of their vehicles that is rated/licensed for it would be my guess. And I doubt they will let any vehicle that is it not rated to tow the full capacity of the trailer rent them, way too much liability.

Like what? Haven't really used the Kombi setup.

You could get a link with a threaded stud and remove the existing ball, or use a through hole ball joint with bolt and nuts if you can't find a matching one. That "factory" setup looks a bit janky to me!

There are a couple that list ball size, but for the ones that don't just reach out to McMaster and see if they can get you that info. I've had to do it before and most of the time they can get you the additional technical info.

I had both, I bought an older Case 1845c when I was building my old shop since I had a lot of dirt to move and only had the B2620 at the time. It did the job well and found it really helpful in moving a lot of dirt quickly, but once I bought a larger tractor it didn't really get used much. I...

Nothing wrong with Stihl but have you looked at Echo PAS, mainly the 2620? I went with Echo PAS266 years ago over the Stihl and have been very happy with them, pretty much have all Echo 2 strokes now except for a couple of chainsaws. They have been very reliable with a good warranty (only...

I don't have experience with the 1668, just the older Bolens, but i would look at the motor mounts first and see if the engine has shifted. If not, I would check that the bearings on the lower pto shaft are still good and the pulley and/or shaft hasn't moved. It doesn't appear that the clutch...

I wouldn't mind a Bobcat A300 or A770, with turf tires and aws they can go on turf without tearing it up. I'm not sure if they offer a current model with aws or not. We have a couple of the A770 at work and seem to hold up well even with all the extra moving parts.

Picture would help, I think I know what you are looking. Have you checked McMaster?

Did it happen once you started using the 3pt? Or using the deck lift?

I saw one going down the road the other day, definitely an improvement from their previous car trailers they rented!

Im glad Ram is finally going away from the flip up mirrors, I can't tell you how many times I haven't flipped them up because I have to readjust them every time and they look ridiculous flipped up when you're not towing. I always liked the "elephant ears" on my old F550, I could slide them in...

They are made but not common, they also make 13mm shoulder bolts which are more common. Maybe even try a 1/2 shoulder bolt as its not undersized like a normal 1/2 bolt.

FedEx ground is contract drivers, usually lots of turnover. The quality of driver is typically based on how good the contractor is.

13mm would be a smaller step at .512. 14mm is closer to 9/16. You could also try a pin instead of a bolt.

They use the regular rubber tire versions for setting jersey barriers in DC, they seem to work pretty good for that.

I saw that also, first one I've seen. I always forget we live close enough to see the same marketplace post.

I've been looking at the 55in Catawaba that's a little heavier so I can use it on the BX and L3240, will be on the heavy side for the BX but would be nice to have 1 grapple that can be used on both machines.

I've been mowing with the BX a few times now, so far I've been very happy with the cut quality. Mowing time is slightly higher but not much, I do enjoy seat time more then the ZD, feels more relaxed. I even get some striping, not as pronounced as the ZD, but still decent.

They are back apparently and getting orders out, some people will balk at their past business practices, but they make a good product and appear to have changed how they do business now.

Do you have the SSQA or pin on bucket? If you have the SSQA I like the EA grapple for the 55" lightweight at 215lbs., catawaba has a 55" that's 212lbs and a bit less money but seems to be build a little lighter duty on the lower tines. If you have the pin on, EA makes a really nice grapple for it.

Why does he need the ati QA? The Kubota factory one on it should work just fine.

Most likely, it uses a pulse type lift pump, also referred to as a clickity-clack pump because they have a clicking sound when running. I. Guessing you only hear it with key on engine off?

I built one years ago, nothing special about the blower, but honestly I would just buy a cyclone rake. I can't speak to the newer DR vacs, but the older one I have experience with I was not impressed.

You mean RCK60B-23BX? According to the parts interchange, the blades are the same between the 22 and 23. I know of the center hole size change you're thinking of and believe that was just on the comercial zero turns.

My experience with mounting the Kubota BH is that its very simple, the most difficult part is taking the 3pt components off which isn't too bad on most models.

Thats great it works for you, but doesn't work for everyone. My BH was less then 7 rentals and I have it when I need it, I've used it more then 7 times so I guess it has paid for itself. Ground clearance is the same, and mounting/dismounting takes less than 10 minutes, so I wouldn't call it...

Only during certain criteria/operating conditions, catalyst have been on diesels before dpf and def. Due to the high combustion temps associated with diesels, NOx has always been an issue. Even some of the newer diesels have reduced CR to help try to lower NOx output.

I have the 18" and 24" buckets, being that mine was a M4711 it didn't have provisions for a factory thumb so I had to make my own. Still finishing a few details on it but otherwise works pretty good. I made it work with both buckets which took some effort.

They won't be labeled Bradco, or now Paladin. The only ones I'm aware of are the M4011 which is newer and based on the 611B and M4711 which is older and based on the 611. If you have ever seen a Bradco/Paladin 611 backhoe, then you would know. The older 3pt Kubota backhoes were also make by...

NOx is produced in the combustion chamber, not so much the exhaust, the EGR is there to reduce the NOx by reducing combustion chamber temps via introducing the spent exhaust into the intake.

I definitely wouldn't cheap out on a linear actuator in that application, I already have my hyd. one so not in the market. You need to hurry up and finish yours, the hard part is already done! You'll wonder why you waited once you use it.

Those are nice hoes, thats a Bradco 611B rebadged for Kubota. I have the earlier version on my L3240 and it does a very nice job, I'm sure it's even better on a heavier tractor.

Yes I know, I wasn't sure if you had priced out all the components yet.

I have a similar plan except with a Scag collector since that's what I have sitting around, thinking about making the dump hyd. I had an older Hustler with the Bacvac, hopefully that one has more capacity as I always found mine to be on the small side.

I bought this used in '94, still gets used for trim work, just missing a little paint here and there on the deck, but otherwise still works great!

I order from them regularly, I don't find their shipping excessive. One tip is, put the mist important items in your cart, then look for the little tan shipping truck on the other items you want. That will indicate that they are coming from the same warehouse as an item that's already in your cart.

I wonder how well those cheaper linear actuators hold up in that application. And just an FYI, you only need 8in of stroke, the cylinder I used was a 1"x8"x0.625"

You don't need an electric to go on the loader. You leave the diverter in the ssqa position and use your 3rd function to actuate the ssqa. If you mount an implement such as a grapple, you would mount it, get off the tractor, hook up your hydraulics hoses, then switch the diverter to the quick...

What's your total cost with wiring relays connector etc. end up being?

I would mount it on the loader at the 3rd function quick couplers, save you from running additional hoses.

You still wouldn't have to get of the tractor to switch implements, only when connecting something that's going to use the 3rd function, which you would have to get off to connect the hoses anyway.

Are you taking about mounting the manual diverter by the seat?

Also check surpluscenter.com, they have a small selection of Omni gearboxes.

I have 2 of these cheaper European supplied diverters like posted, I haven't been very impressed. As expected, internal leak down is a bit more then I like, but the external leaks are getting annoying.

Thanks, its still in the R&D stage, but was planning on producing them at some point.

I made a hyd ssqa for my L3240 a couple years ago. I used diverters for both my grapple and the ssqa, I would just mount manual diverter out on the loader arms. It will reduce the number of hoses you'll have have to be at the front of the loader to connect the hoses when using the grapple...

Wow, that's surprising, if I recall they are bolted to the exhaust manifold along with some other brackets. Did you do a lot of low idling?

Mine also came off a 2660 but must have been a 54in deck as the boot bracketry didn't match up at all. Also the rear mounting brackets were different, but luckily I had the correct brackets in my pile of random Kubota parts! Tractor data says 08-13 for the 60 series.

Just looked on build my kubota. MSRP was just over $2400

No idea new, I got mine used for 500. I know the hard clamshell style I have on my zd331 was over 5k new.

How many stands does yours have? Mine had 2, one under the blower and one on the bagger upright closest to the blower. I moved that one to the further upright from the blower, and it seems to be fairly balanced. I will say you do have to watch how you move it or else it will end up upside down...

I also just recently picked up a GCK60-23BX for my Bx2680. I will say i prefer the frame mounted version, and once I get my hyd top link it will be very easy to r&r. Mine came with all the deck mounting hardware, but unfortunately it must have been for a different size and model deck as it...

I wouldn't paint the aluminum, usually just traps more moisture, I've found the best prevention is washing thoroughly and running the deck after to help dry it. The dryer the grass when mowing the better.

Do you have a picture of the damage? I've seen aluminum spindles have bad corrosion in areas, most likely from the moisture from decomposing grass, also when decomposing the grass can change PH which could cause problems. I doubt if the casting was what bad it would have made it through qc.

Yeah, it's just a chunk of cast iron.

You are referring to this correct?

It is just a chunk of metal bolted to the engine to help with vibration/harmonics of the 2cylinder engine. I couldn't find it in the parts book either. My dad has a 1500 and I was curious about that weight also when he bought it.

Check for ac voltage between the 2 wires coming from the stator (coil under the flywheel), you'll have to check for particular engine model, but is usually between 28-35v ac at full throttle. If you have the correct ac voltage going into the regulator and no dc voltage above 13v coming out...

They actually have a higher load rating then the R4 I took off. 825lbs for the Reaper and 780lbs for the R4

Bought a set of the Reapers for the front of the BX, if I like them I'll get a set for the rear also. So far they seem like they'll work pretty good, once I mow with them I'll know for sure.

Kubota uses aluminum rear transmission/axle housings on the BX, B and LX series with one exception I know of. The B26tlb uses cast steel axle housings with an aluminum center/transmission. From personal experience and what I've seen on other equipment, the aluminum rear ends on these tractors...

I'm pretty sure the hitch is latched, I think it looks weird because the hitch has a downward angle. I'm more worried that that trailer doesn't have any brakes with a B2320 w/loader behind a small suv.

No, I have an M4711, which is essentially the same backhoe, just an earlier model. Mine is on an L3240, and it's on the big side for my tractor, which weighs over 5,000 lbs.

We'll find out, haven't mowed yet although I need to. The loader will probably stay off most of the mowing season. Although mounting/dis-mounting the loader takes about 5min and I don't have to leave the seat! Kinda handy. If i had a lot of property to mow, I I would probably keep the ZD, but...

I'm not completely sure, but I know some models have a switch to automatically turn off the PTO when the 3pt is at full height. Might look into if yours has that.

How quickly does does it go up after you start it? Does it sound like its loaded up while rising?

You said it drops when turned off and goes up when running? If so I would think the drop speed knob wouldn't be the issue.

Does it have draft control? That would add another area to look onto.

Sounds like something is either stuck on the feedback, or the connection came off. Check for any linkages that might have come off the 3pt rocker arms or back by the valve. I'm not familiar with your model exactly but most position control 3pt on compacts use fairly similar setups. Does it...

I think they were made for zero turns, but i like that they are a little more aggressive than the turf masters. I just wonder how hard the fronts will be on the turf when turning.

Has anyone tried the Reaper turf tires on their BX? Want to change the R4 on my BX to turf and was looking at using the OTR Reaper turf tires. Just wondering how they compare to the Turf Masters I'm use to.

Better lubricants help, but a lot has to do with design, better machining, better materials, and quality control. As someone who use be a machinist for an engine builder, I was able to work on a number of different makes. The most accurate/best cast blocks I worked on were Honda at the time...

The loader to tractor attachment has the same pin style as other Kubota loaders. Easy off, maybe 5min to remove the loader assembly, no tools required.

There are a lot of aftermarket companies rebuilding electronics for nla parts. At least for more popular models that have a following.

Depends on which state, after 25years they don't require emissions testing.

Yeah, but might help the person that just posted, or anyone else that searches. Always hate threads that don't have a resolution.

Picked up a Makita 6421 to go with my 6401, have been looking for a while this one popped up localy for a great price. Now I just need to decide which one will get turned into a 7901!

It is hard to tell from the picture, but is the pinion gear completely worn out? See circled gear.

Should be 2000rpm

BX2230, but yes, around here, that would be a decent deal for that setup. I'd rather have a 2230 then a 2350 anyways due to the plastic hoods and fenders on the 50 series. From the pictures, it looks pretty clear for the hours.

Manual lever would be on the lift pump attached to the engine, not the filter. Can you take a picture of the line you're clearing? One line on the filter housing has a check valve in it if my memory serves me right. Tomorrow I'll be home and can check my L3240, which should be the same.

I wouldn't recommend a tapered extractor, they have a tendency to damage castings from the pressure they exert. Look for a splined style for pipe, they are specific to size. If that doesn't work, the die grinder mentioned earlier, very carfully with a carbide burr or even a stone, cut into the...

Do you have a lever on the lift pump to manually pump by hand? If so, open the bleeder and manually pump until you get a good clean flow of fuel out. Then close the bleeder and crack all the hard line nuts at the injectors. Crank until you have fuel coming out, then tighten the injector...

Typically key switches located like that will use a plastic "umbrella" molded onto the key that fits over the switch to keep water out. Without that, the switches have a tendency to fail pretty quick if out in the weather. Might see if you can find a key like that for your switch. Similar to these

The grand L and BX definitely compliment each other well size wise.

Just priced SUDT2 at my dealer today, $128 for 5gal, we are not in the lowest cost area either.

I have pretty soft ground in places and the R4's will tear it up pretty good when turning. I have a set of turfs that'll fit, although the front are pretty worn. I also have a set of ag tires, but the fronts won't fit as they are the older 8in wheel version. I'll probably swap out the turfs...

Picked up the tractor and mower deck yesterday, long trip but am happy with the condition of both, only thing I need to do to the deck is straighten out the anti scalp wheel mount by the front of the discharge (not uncommon) the paint isn't even worn off the cutting edge of the blades. Tractor...

I'm hopefully it up tomorrow, there is something more relaxing about mowing with a tractor vs. the Z. I will miss the nice crisp stripes, though.

I'd agree with you all on points, at least it'll still be diesel and can add a mulching kit. Definitely will not be as fast, but from my experience it'll only add about 20-30min.

Trail work, landscaping around the house, being able to use it when the L is tied up with backhoe and grapple use. For the short time I had the 1870 I found it pretty handy to have a second loader around. I also borrow my dad Bx1500 from time to time when I need a small machine.

I have a L3240 with loader and backhoe, just trying to have equipment that can be used year round. The smaller loader tractor is handy for work that the L is too big for. Honestly the Zd is really too big for my needs, I love it but since I'm not cutting for money anymore it doesn't make a lot...

A lot, I put more hrs on the tractor than I do on the mower every year. That's part of the reason to change, hate having a peice of equipment that sits for 4+ months of the year. Because of how the yard is setup it only adds about 1/2 to mowing time.

Maybe, would like to know your reasoning

Mmm, rfm are a pain. I've mowed this area with a Wheel Horse w/60in deck, it does take a little longer but not terrible. I figure the extra utility of having a second loader/tractor will outweigh the slight mowing disadvantages, I really will miss my Zd if I go this route, though. If was...

Well I think I'm going to look at a 2680 tomorrow, it only has about 250hrs and has a Landpride 3rd function on it. I also found a low hr 60in deck for it from someone else. If it works out, I'll have my Zd's up for sale soon. Hope the whole deal will only cost me about 2k if I can get what I...

With the blower for the collector on it is almost 8ft wide! Can get a bit cumbersome to maneuver over uneven ground.

I've mowed this property with a Wheel Horse 520h with a 60in deck, and Z's with 60 and 72. Time isn't as big of an issue now that it's mine and not a customers where time meant money. With the ssqa I can at least pull the bucket off to mow, although the swift-tach loaders seem to come on and...

I don't need a bx, it would be more of a replacment for the zd since it has more uses. I would be buying used and selling my zd331, zd21 and probably my Wheel Horse 520h. I don't care about ground clearance as this would be a secondary machine to my larger L so the mower deck would stay on all...

Thanks, I know it'll be slower then the Zd, mainly wondering how the BX cut quality will compare. I have a larger L3240 for heavier tractor work. While I like the z it's a one trick machine, it would also be nice to have a smaller machine to get into places the L doesn't fit.

I'm thinking about selling my ZD331 and buying a BX2680 with loader (used). I know the BX cut speed and cut quality won't be as good, but I like the idea of having a machine I can use year round and for other task. The only experience I have on a BX mowing has been with a BX1500 a few times...

Yes, but if you have 1/2" studs you'll need to upgrade to 9/16".

I wanted a rollback trailer when I was looking at few years ago. They're very rare so I went with a regular deckover with ramps. Just saw an older Moritz rollback trailer for sale on market place! Man I wish I could have found that 2 years ago.

I have the 14ply 16's on my dump trailer, major improvement over the 10ply, but nothing compared to the 17.5's I put on my deckover, those things are stout, lots more tread compared to the 14ply 16's.

They make slip clutches for round shafts so most likely you can add a slip clutch if you want. Does the top of the A frame slide in the brace? I have an older Woods mower that had a flex joint built into the A frame for the 3pt.

It wasn't a salesman, higher up. I also looked into it and Diamond C was listed with ATW at the time, maybe the deal fell through, don't know. I just know at the time they were connected, and right after, PJ trailers started to pick up a lot of Diamond C design traits. I actually prefer them...

That came from the large Diamond C/ PJ dealer I bought my Diamond C trailer from 2 years ago when we started discussing different brands. The only brand on his lot that wasn't connected was the Good Guys trailers. Apparently ATW bought/invested in a number of manufacturers in 2019/2020...