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What is the problem with running your house and electronics from a generator? I have been doing this nigh onto 40 years and have yet to experience a problem with electronic devices. Inquiring minds would like to know if there is a reason for this idea that generators kill electronics.

I have a few generators in the shop that need to be started up every once in a while, during the year. Running them with no load is not really a good way to exercise a generator. My load is a cut down kitchen range, with all the top elements in the oven, along with the oven elements and the oven...

Someone does.

Been using the 2750 snowblower for 8 years and it works very well. I did modify it to an electric chute rotator and electric deflector control.

I have been doing this for a couple of years, and it sure beats putting chains on every fall. The wheel swap is quicker and easier, especially on the BX series because of the small tires.

Are you sure it is smoke, and not an oil mist caused by blow by. At that age, your tractor's rings are probably pretty tired, and not sealing as they did when new.

Yep, that's exactly what they are and the curved ends are the outside shells of euchered bearings.

If you are going to use the cylinder safety locks, definitely use 2. With only one, when you decide to lower the loader while having a brainfart, your loader could look decidedly different than when you started. Ask me how I know. These are the ones I use on a BX23.

These are adjustable so the edge can be set to any height. By the time winter is going full bore, the wheels are adjusted so they are just dangling, and the skids keep the edge very close to the ground.

If you have one with doors at one end and regret not getting one with 2 doors, here is what you can do. Take a skill saw with and abrasive blade and cut the end out of the end of the container, cut it in half, and re-install it with hinges and a closing mechanism. Done right, there will be an...

It could be that you are looking at the effect of the wheel on the inside radius of a turn having to turn more than the wheel on the outside radius of the turn.

I am not familiar with your tractor, but do you have a 1000rpm pto shaft? If so, get a stub that fTts on it, but terminates with the standard 540 pto shaft splines. Then you can run your 540 rpm implements at the standard speed, with your tractor running at nearly half speed.

I don't quite know what your snowblower looks like, and my suggestion probably won't help the shear bolt failure on pto engagement, but here goes. I have a front mounted snowblower on a bx23 that worked flawlessly until it didn't and started shearing bolts in the fan. Just for info, the fan uses...

This may explain it in more down to earth terms that people like us can understand. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=engineering+gobbledygook#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:c2880606,vid:61R2P20Ca2U

Nothing wrong with brass. Just don't use it on the high pressure side to the diesel fuel system.

Birchbark. Starts easily with a match, but burns really hot, much better than paper or cardboard.

Here is an orange version, with an alternate solution for the same problem. The wheels on the deck become the wheels on the dolley.

Oops. My bad. My prescription must be off again.

A non functioning, or no thermostat should not affect how your tractor starts in cold weather. Thermostats are there to regulate the temperature on an engine that is already warm and getting too warm.

Each tractor model would have a different way of doing it. You would have to go to the circuit diagram to see what was required for one switch to bypass them all.

Just had a problem with the HST pedal safety switch malfunction, but did not have the time to fix it at this time. Fortunately, I have a safety switch bypass switch which disables them all, and allows me to keep doing what I'm doing. It has now been replaced with no down time.

If you go that route, make sure the linear actuator shaft is facing down. That will minimize shaft freeze up from accumulating moisture and wet snow.l

Check with your dealership about ordering rims with tires on them thru the whole goods ordering process (not the parts counter). I replaced all four rims and tires using this process for a 2007 BX23 for less than $600 canadian about 5 years ago.

I am guessing that your fuel solenoid is electrically a 3 wire, with the two wires showing being a pull, and hold wires, while the 3rd so called wire is the body of the solenoid which would be ground. Strange things may happen if you apply a voltage across the pull and hold wires without...

I viable alternative to these box store generators is a used 8 to 10kw light tower, the kind they use to light up construction sites. They are getting relatively cheap, as most construction companies are moving to LED light towers which require hardly any power at all. These older ones (could...

We used to have a 45kw Generac pto generator to run the farm, things like vacuum pumps, silo unloaders and belt feeders, when the power went out. The tractor was a CIH 885 which runs to about 72hp. However, you don't want to be running that type of scenario when your load is a few things in your...

I have a BX23 with a front snowblower, with the same problem that you have. This is what I zip tie to the removable radiator screen and the gauge goes to about the same temperature as in the summer.

I have a 2005 BX23 which has given me very little trouble as far as safety switches go. That being said, as a retired farmer, I have seen enough weekend breakdowns involving just the safety switches, shutting down time sensitive harvesting operations. So, to make sure that doesn't happen to my...

You mentioned that after the first start attempt, the battery starts getting weak, in spite of the battery tender being used. It might be because at the temperatures you are experiencing, the battery output is probably less than half of its rating, and at that temperature, it won't take a proper...

It was mentioned previously that summer heat kills batteries. Be that as it may, a bit of heat to the battery in winter cold boosts it maximum deliverable current. The OP states it seems to crank better, the longer the glow plugs are applied. I suspect this is because the battery undergoes...

No, I don't believe it is. On the topic of moisture contamination of the linear actuator, I do not blow snow when its raining either, but after finishing snow clearing, the ram was almost always wet. Now that it is inverted, the ram still gets wet, but not at the seal where the ram retracts into...

Very nice setup. The only change I could suggest would be to turn the actuator upside down to lessen the chance of water getting past the shaft seals and causing future problems.

The plate on the open area of the chute seems to increase the distance that the snow can be blown. It may have something to do with confining the airstream to the chute rather than have some of it bleeding off at the bottom of the chute.

Here is what worked for me. The square pieces keep the cutoff drifts from falling over the back of the blower. The square holes serve no purpose, just used what was on hand.

Buy yourself a battery blanket and leave in plugged in when the weather is cold. Battery CCA is directly related to temperature (at least at the cold end of the scale) and the boost in cranking capacity is really noticeable. On top of that, cold batteries have a hard time recharging and brief...

Drum brakes can be either leading or lagging or leading/lagging design. A leading shoe is one that rotates in the direction of the drum. A lagging shoe is one that rotates in the opposite direction of the drum (shoe rotation refers to the tiny amount the shoe moves when braking). A...

Don't know much about your particular skid steer, but most of these have one hydraulic motor drive for each side, and the wheels on each side are driven by one motor, but are coupled together by sprockets and chains. If these drive chains have a lot of slop in them, and depending on how the...

If it failed once from the stress of holding the radiator in place, it will probably fail again, now, tomorrow, or next year. I would be tempted to remove that nipple alltogether and mcgyver up a steel nipple attached to a round plate the same size as the base shown on the radiator. Drill a few...

Thanks for that. I have 2 VH4D engines, both on gasoline, and I am sure this info will come in real handy.

I vote bad connection of the ground cable to frame.

You folks do realize you are replying to a 14 year old thread?

If the battery is good, as you assume it is, and all your cable connections are good, then one condition that might cause this is a bad commutator section on your start motor. If the brushes are sitting on the defective loop, there will be no starting torque at all, nada. If you manually rotate...

What works sometimes if your deck has been adjusted a little to tight with respect to the TOP position is this. Lift the deck hydraulics up to the maximum, get off the tractor on left side. Use one hand to put some tension on that knob in the direction to get to zero, and with the other hand...

Seeing as how the problem seems to occur when in use for a period of time, this might indicate a vacuum buildup in the fuel tank. Next time it happens, pop the fuel cap on the tank, or just loosen it, and see if the problem disappears. If so, you have a blocked fuel cap vent.

At some time or other you may want to feather the hydraulic flow to the rear remotes. This is not possible with solenoid actuators.

It's unfortunate that only the smartas$e$ responded to your request for some help. Understandably you may not feel a driving need to post your experience with fixing the leak, but I am sure there are a lot of members on this forum who would be interested. Please do post .

I am too cheap to buy the the stuff. Just go to an adjacent pit around here, pick up a bucket load of sand, then screen it with a fan to blow away the dust. A couple of hundred pounds of medium ready to go takes about an hour and works well for preparing surfaces for painting. Total cost $0.

In almost all cases, the hydraulic lines for lift and drop are coupled together, so it only takes a seal on one side, for that kind of behavior.

Picked up this old Miller 330A-Bp for about 200 Canucks a couple of weeks ago. Works like a charm, AC, DC straight and reverse, and TIG. These things are built like tanks, weight in excess of 750 pounds. It requires a 240v 100amp service to operate at full capacity. It came with cables, 50feet...

Don't have a clue about your bolt, and don't know your tractor. But, most 3pths will lift and drop with no resistance from the point at which they are resting, be it all the way down, half down, or at some other level. Are you sure it wasn't this way from day one, and you never noticed it till now?

On my Woodmizer bandsaw mill the wheels where just V belt pulleys of the correct size, and the tire was a v belt just barely long enough to fit around said pulley. Worked like a charm for over 1000hrs that was put on the mill while I owned it. Very easy to replace just a v belt.

It could be moved behind the wheel, if not backhoe was involved.

This is for an older BX23, which are compact enough that it is difficult to find a tool box location. This build does not stick out from the tractor too much, is portable, or totally removable.

Good install. I was going to say it looks a little vulnerable, until I saw the fine guard you made. My only suggestion would be to make sure you have a screen on your tank fill port, as that is where a lot of junk enters the system.

If it clicks and none of your idiot lights or console doesn't dim, it is unlikely to be a battery connection or battery problem. Most likely your safety switches have over time aged and become a bit resistive. This chokes off the necessary voltage needed to operate the starter solenoid because...

Don't know any details about your tractor, but highly suspect is that the emergency brake is on, or that your hydraulic system is deadheading, and your relief valve is bypassing hydraulic fluid at full pressure. Check to make sure that all your hydraulic controls are in neutral. Especially your...

My 2750D experienced a problem similar to yours in that the augers would turn independently of the blower. However, the cause turned out to be a little more serious. The shaft had snapped just inside the gearbox. A new shaft would take about 3 weeks to arrive, so had one machined from a...

We debated using a pto generator for backup but decided that the option of an independent generator was the way to go, freeing up the tractor for dealing with the crap that is usually causing the outage. Deciding what type of generator normally depends on the most convenient type of fuel...

Wheels works great when the ground is not frozen. They are adjustable in 1/2 inch increments, but raised when the ground is frozen, so the snowblower is then on skids.

I have castor wheels on mine that originally came from a sweeper. They are used when the ground is not yet covered by a thin sheet of frozen ice or snow. Once you have a solid frozen cover, the wheels can be raised, and only the skid shoes are used. Never had a problem with snow buildup. One...

The title says it all.

The alternative to buying is making your own, if you have the tools and disposition. These particular attachments are for the BX23. The quick attach for the backhoe is based on the one sold by BXpanded, took a lot of time but was well worth it. The ripper is also based on the BXpanded version...

and the rear remotes

A few years ago, someone on either TBN or OTT posted his solution to adding tines to the bucket of the BX23 FEL. I shamelessly copied his design, and would give him credit if I could find the post. Part of the build was welding a set of lugs onto the top lip of the bucket, as seen in the pics...

I have a 2750D front mounted snowblower mounted to a BX23 tractor, that has performed well for the last couple of years. The only shear pins that have let go, did so because of encountering obstructions of some kind, the kind that does the pin in from physical shock. Lately, that has changed...

You could rig up something like this, only a little bigger. This is on a bx23, so a bit too small for what you have in mind.

I would suspect that your lift pump is weak. Going up a hill forwards lowers the level of the fuel in the tank relative to the pump and makes pumping harder. Going in reverse, raises the fuel level with respect to the pump and you almost have a gravity feed situation. Here is my list of things...

I have a BX23 with FEL and BH and the manual states that the 3pth is inoperable when the BH is attached. Because the 3pth is sandwiched in between the tractor and the backhoe, it is physically inoperable, but as far as I can see, the hydraulics should work as if the BH was not there. No BH...

Two questions actually. This is for a BX23. There is a wiring harness overtop of the motor and coming out of it is a double white wire terminating in a single terminal connector. Any ideas what it does, it isn't hot with the key on or off. Secondly, when checking the oil level in the front axle...

Hello all, I am new to this forum if skulking about is not taken into account. Just got a BX23 kubota and while cleaning it up, noticed that my HST fan has no blades. How serious is this for the HST and how hard is it to replace?