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Your $150 MIG machine aint going to cut it..... You are going to need a full 120/140 amp machine for that sort of project....

Think you are really going to be disappointed with the $150 machine.... The thing about welding is the machine is never big enough to do the projects that keep getting bigger and bigger..... Found that out when I got Hobart Handler 140 ($700) and now long for a Hobart 210MVP ($1200) because...

IF all the above items fail to show the trouble, you could pull drive motor assembly and test it with a 12V battery, most MIG welders use a drive motor the can range from 9 to 18 volts dc....

Sounds like a parasitic load ... IF you disconnect a terminal on battery and put a voltmeter on disconnected terminal and battery post and get a reading meaning you have a parasitic load draining battery..... Could be from slight load leaking through from charging circuit..... Simple solution...

THE pressure on return line to filter and cooler has no relationship as to height/location as to outlet of control valve or height of inlet to tank .... IT will either have pressure or not, pressure is caused by resistance to flow (in the sense-Plumbing) ...There has to be "some" pressure to...

Looks to me like a standard hydraulic system breather..... https://www.surpluscenter.com/Brands/Dynamic/3-8-NPT-Chrome-Plated-Screw-On-Air-Tank-Breather-Dynamic-Fluid-Components-DB40-06-9-16088-6.axd

Why would it have a vent screen if it was not compatible....

Cleanliness is next to godliness.... Also prevent lots of problems... Clean up fittings ... Check for crud between ball/poppet and base, and use caps/plugs to prevent dirt entering QD....

YEs ditch the valve and put coupling in place and reinstall vent screen.....

Does Mahindra have online parts catalogue for that model?

Open it up a bit and forget about it...... MY splitter has a 1/16 hole drilled in filler plug..... Been the way for 30 years or so splitter has been in existence.... Valve serves no real purpose other then to make operation more complex.... Most hydraulic system are open vented.....

Go big..... Four 200#(+) and large diameter, small diameter require scrupulously clean floor, to wit a bean caught under shopping cart wheel.... So many choices..... https://thecasterguy.com/

If load is equally distributed on all four caster its probable yes...

I was contemplating 3PH splitter until I learned the hydraulic flow rate of my tractor was so low splitter operation would be slow.... While procrastinating a used 22 ton came up for $200 with blown motor, new motor and hoses put me in good operation a lot less than 3PH would have cost me...

Never really liked the idea of a mid point lift.... To easy to screw up ballance and to easy to crush under working of vehicle ... and if you have to start making adapters to make it work it jest even squirrlier... Guess that is why I use old skool floor jack and jack stands....

I have a STIHL FS90 which is a 4 stroke and it uses same 2 stroke mix as my chainsaws.... In a sense it does not need oil and like convection B&S or Honda 4 stroke engines...

Check the screws the hold the gauge unit to circuit board..... When mine was delivers the temp gauge did not work.... What do you know, loose screws securing gauge to circuit board.... IF you smack it and it starts working something is just loose....

And we need to rename PG&E to Pacific Graft & Extorsion....

Not so much about local utility company BTPM, extract (pdf file) gives pretty good description of what appliances draws how much power....

Living in rural area its common for 22-25 KW generators run on propane, common installation usually with a 250 gallon propane tank and if you own the tank (not lease) you can buy propane from lowest provider.... On another note in a few days we get to test my new 7.5 kw generator (old 6.5kw...

Does not sound like like correct answer to my question.... What is generator output breaker size???

Maybe I missed something, but all comments are about a 9KW generator, BUT what is max size of circuit breaker on output....

According to wiring diagram there is one single black wire that supplies most grounds for most dash functions... It s on the connector with 5 wires...

And what is gauge of cable you are connecting generator to transfer switch..... Bottom line with 30 or 50 amp generator ( maybe 10KW) you need to cut back on what is turned on in house....... IF you were to have 20-25KW generator you could turn everything on....

Might be in owners manual, I know it is for 17xx series....

Might check to see if there is a "starter relay" in circuit.... Electrical diagram in manual would tell you this.... I know in GC 1700 series the is a "starter relay" that triggers the solenoid on starter.... Other option may be internal (not visible ) corrosion in battery/ground cable or poor...

Justy a FYI, the NAPA filters are manufactured by WIX...

About 600-800 lbs (or more) of ballast on rear can help stability....Your brush hog is probably about 1/3 the weight you actually need.... Also widen rear track if possible... Either by rearranging rear wheels if possible or wheel spacers....

MY Massy GC1715 requires me to be in seat... I actually put ZIP tie around seat switch and since tractor is "dumb" it thinks I'm still on seat....

This goes for almost all low and high pressure cylinders because most have double seals.... Only exception is Acetylene and it 1/2 to 1 turn....

Totally off track (no pun intended) thinking but could problem be with tracks..... Something binding tracks in reverse and stalling hydraulic motors.... BUT works well going forward.... Because the logic for hydraulics to run track motors is the same whether going forward or reverse.... Maybe...

Here is Dicktill thread.... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/how-massey-ferguson-gc-1723-1725-hydraulics-are-plumbed.476917/#post-6817445

IF its for the charge indicator light and initialization for alternator I say its a alternator problem... IF you unplug alternator and it starts and you can move without blowing fuse its pretty sure alternator is the problem.... Need to see portion of wiring diagram in manual between fuse and...

Funny thing... Have new FIRMAN 7500W generator, and to stop it has fuel shut off valve Its dual fuel either propane/NG or gasoline, and when going from gas to off it instantly kills engine (electrical shut down), no way to shut off fuel and let carburetor run to dry it...

Kinda got to disagree with you there.... At least on my two JD mowers....

Never run my engines dry... To hard to restart..... Never have had fuel/carburetor issues....

What bothers me is everybody is saying filter is in hydraulic circuit which I interpret as high pressure side.... Confused as to whether filter could stand 1700-1800 PSI... Would seem to me filter would be on low pressure return to tank side, or suction side....

Probably really should have proper power beyond (PB) so the "control" is only for log splitter and the controls for FEL is complete out of the picture....

After having a contractor do clean up after storm using a skid steer I found it quite necessary to have wheeled tractor with FEL to clean up all the bumps and ruts skid steer made.... Dont think I want a skid steer on property unless in absolute desperation....

Personally I just taped 12 volts at battery terminal, used inline fuse between battery and switch and from switch to whatever required power.... To much work trying to decipher wiring diagram in manual and adapting to existing stuff (opening loom and such)...

THought a "skidder" was a logging machine (by definition) for dragging logs out of forrest.... Why would you need one for "ranch" work.... For any skidding work on my property my "tractor" does just fine....

Think the process is learning how to lift.... You are supposed to come into edge of pile and scrape up with lip of loader.... Not bury bucket deep into pile then try to lift....

May I suggest using jack stands or hydraulic cylinder blocks when working under mower, tractor hydraulics are nor fail safe and have been know to release dropping load.....

Go back and read post #4....

I have winch on my trailer.....

Game camera on tree near equipment, usually are motion activated.....

Going back one step in link gives you a lot more possible options..... https://www.flowfitonline.com/categories/hydraulic-pumps/gear-pump-connectors

Well instead of "stud" try threaded rod.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/302423712280 https://www.mcmaster.com/products/threaded-rods/system-of-measurement~metric/thread-size~m10/thread-pitch~1-25-mm/

Both my JD riding mowers have three blades, middle blade if set a bit forward so its rotation does not interfere with two outer blades..... Believe this to be true with most belt driven mowers.... So perpendicular is not a valid thing....

Maybe here...... Bell Metric... If you want metric bolts, nuts, washers, etc: go to a metric supplier..... https://belmetric.com/ More specific.... https://belmetric.com/m10-full-thread-stud-din-976-class-8-8-steel/?sku=S10X200FCLZ

Essentially they are all about the same, most come from China, suggest you stay with popular name brands...

Top of my septic tank is about 4 foot deep, I have no fear of driving over it, I just need to avoid access hatches....

Per parts book (note section 126)...... https://parts.agcocorp.com/us/en

Basically it does not look like a "fuse block" looks like a male/female Weather-Pac connection.....

This link will give you idea on what is inside steering assembly in axle.... Scroll down to bottom of page..... Yes its for a GC2310, but its almost identical to what a GC1710 front axle is.... I used it for reference when I did the steering seal repair on my GC1715...

Spell check can be friend or foe..... Proof read before pressing "enter"....

Spring goes in bottom of canister then the filter... THere is this option also...

Does pin #5 go into dimple on control valve?.... IF you did not get control valve properly attached it may be pushed to one side and allow a high pressure fluid to bypass into the chamber and blow out gasket...By design it does not look like the chamber can sustain high pressure fluid...

Certain alternator makes (like the Bosch on my VW dune buggy engine) requires a rise in rpm to a point it actually initializes charge sequence and ALT light goes out and alternator is producing charge voltage..... IF once you "initalize" alternator sequence and if you put voltmeter across...

My dad always told me when returning something borrowed it was to be cleaned and in good working order (yes greased) ... IF I broke it I was to repair it, if it could not be repaired, replace it..... philosophy has always worked well for me....

Ball type regulator move ball up on volume/flow (CFM or CFH) not of whether gas is heavier/lighter than air (gas type) ....

I would try to work it out if it was mine, even taking it to hydraulic shop for rebuild would probably be cheaper than buying new....

Definitely rodent at work.....

My JD's have greasable spindles, BUT it's next to impossible to get grease gun to connect with the zerk... Maybe next set I rebuild I will put on angle zerks....

Have replaced bearing in a couple of JD spindle's in 2 different mower decks.... JUst break it down, get number off bearing and order new bearings and reassemble.... But these were sealed ball bearings and not tapered bearings...

I go first with water temp sensor, second choice may e oil pressure switch..... Take sensor base out and see what you get....

IF you read post #1 again the buzz word phrases are "needs relay" and "to start tractor"... Makes one guess its a "starter relay"....

My Massey sub compact says to fill till fluid is half way up on horizontal axles shaft.... Being how its designed that covers all the moving parts and bearings.... Also keep in mind it's going to probably take more the you would guess because once it is full enough fluid will go across axle...

Typical a starter relay is used to operate the solenoid on starter I have grave and serious doubts a solenoid draws 100-300 amps to operate..... But then the solenoid has a contact set that can handle the 100-300 amps the starter motor needs to spin up.... Lets not miss comprehend relays and...

Always sharpen by eye with angle grinder then balance, even edges on new blades last about ten minutes between gopher mounds, sticks, rocks and whatever else wife runs over on my JD riding mower....

I would not buy any tractor seat without sitting in it first.....

Just do it with what you have, time will tell you how good you really are..... JUst about everything I weld is with 120V 140Amp Hobart handler with .030 wire and shield gas.... If its not pretty enough for you grind it out and do it again....

Ahem.... https://www.northerntool.com/categories/tractor-seats

I user mine as a work table almost daily.... Keeps the top scuffed and rust at bay....

That was for plowing (IE: dust bowl).... Mowing does not damage weed root base for erosion....

Not sure of your statement, put 3 inch spacers on rear of my GC 1715 and it made a world of difference in its stability.... As for slopes, you can go up a slope and you can go down a slope, NEVER across a slope....

THE wheel or the bracket holding wheel..... I have 2 JD riding mowers and have had various problem with wear and vibration and bending things on mow deck....... Never had any negative issue or thought about heating up things with to torch to bend back into proper shape or welding if item is...

Isn't the some sort of ratio recommended for horse power to diameter of brush hog, .. Something like 1 foot of cutter for every 5 HP of tractor..... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/bush-hog-hp-requirements.101402/

Always stay with main stream.... Like stuff available at local auto parts....

Put in 4X4 mode... Use rear differential lock.... Use ballast weight... Use LOW gear range.... IF that does not get you there, you don't need (want) to go there

A pic of problem that is in better focus may help us help you....

THE Rata tat-tat is the electric lift pump between tank and fuel injection pump....

Heck I am running what I think is DEXRON II in my log splitter and it may be 30 years old...... Synthetic and dino oil seem to blend ok, personally I would not worry about it....Permatrans 821XL is a 10W30 semi-synthetic blend meaning its part synthetics part dino.....

Good shot of PB Blaster never hurt...

I have a 30 year old DURR 22 ton (probably manufactured by MDT under contract) .... IT splits anything I have including a 24 inch diameter dry OAK.... Oak fought back and actually came out of splitter explosive.. Yes it hurt.... IF a 27 ton wont split it you don't want to deal with it..... Only...

How is the working out for you... Need some more substantial than my 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 steel tines..

No grapple but here is my brush forks..... BUT really could use simple grapple ... Just to clamp brush from falling off...And yes they are removable......

Think I would go with Peter314's idea....

Take your bad bulb to autoparts store and do a stare and compare of base size and voltage from those on display board...

The boat seats hardly look comfortable for old bony butts on a tractor....

Wont turn over is wrong term, it usually equate to wont crank, wont spin up...... .... DO you mean wont start or run.... If it starts/runs on starting fluid I believe you have a fuel issue and not related to neutral safety switch.... checking wiring diagram would help to determine if tractor...

Modify the "older stuff" once to fit QH and be happy forever..... QH is 3rd generation designed to do a way with all the foibles of non standard hitch attachments....

Found that mineral spirits (aka paint thinner) followed by straight Simple Green (biodegradable) makes excellent cleaner IF you don't have "parts washer"...

Late to the thread, but it may be bad fuel line between tank and fuel pump.... I had problems with hard start and after many hours of chasing things discovered fuel line had macroscopic holes in it and was drawing air instead of fuel.... Replaced fuel line between tank and fuel pump and problem...

NOt alway a good process..... When settling my mother trusts I got cashiers check from her bank and closed out her account, I had sons bank account numbers and I went to deposit the check in his bank, his account.... First thing teller said to me was "not much money in that account" (sons...

My lower ballast support is based on CAT 1 draw bar.... Good design process make easy work if its done with some forethought....

Basically buyer initiates transfer from his bank to your bank..... Go talk to your bank manage to be sure you fully understand process.....

On my ballast I put a short piece of 1 inch water pipe on pin and secured it with bolt and elastic lock nut.....

Something similar... Bought 5 acres for "cash", monies were withdrawn for my account and since bank manager understood transaction, monies were deposited directly in "title" companies account.... Title company had notification of the deposit before I could leave bank and drive to title company...

"Linkage" on brush hog is not adjusted correctly.....

One of those stupid Chinese under $3 digital volt meters will tell you exactly what's going on in car/truck/tractor electrical system, you just have to know how to read it.... I put these on my riding mowers on my tractor and have one on long cord that plugs into cigarette lighter socket...

Electronic funds transfer..... No transfer, no title, no keys, no vehicle....

That seems to be current trend... And that is a derivation from the current QH standard....

Typically a volt meter is wired from positive (+) side of meter to any terminal on switch that goes to "ON" whenever tractor is in "run" mode.... Negative side of meter (-) to ground... Don't know exactly what amperage output you alternator is but typically they are minimal, MY sub compact...

Have had cataract surgery, also wear "cheater" and have magnifying lens in hood and use a lot of ambient light, change plastics shields in hood regularly.... Have tried, done everything but put out a lot of money for very expensive helmet.... THE real question is IF I lay out something like...

IS there really any AD welding helmet to can really give this quality of view for MIG process for old eyes?... Granted the image may be heavily filtered for camera, but it's what I need to continue welding at my old age....

Just put "16.5X6.5X8 tire" in search string.... Maybe 20 or so sources will popup to research through..... Personally I would spend the extra bucks and get "flat free" (Marathon) tire & wheel...

As Fuddyduddy says, check all the switches....

Don't be surprised if it fail again in future..... Glad you got it fixed...

What type and brand of foam.... Surely not wall insulation foam....

Could be any number of safety switches..... MAybe a seat switch, maybe a timer relay gone bad (welded contacts) ..... On my MF GC17xx the fuel cutoff solenoid is operated by a timer relay that operates for about 10 seconds to pull up the solenoid and shuts off fuel when key goes to off...

Stuck timer relay? IF you have wiring diagram, use volt meter/probe light and see where its getting its power from....Something is supplying 12 volt to it and it shouldn't be...

Those look like basically hand truck or wheel borrow tires... Would think some "flat free" tires/wheel may be appropriate... https://www.marathonind.com/Flat-Free-Tires-C13.aspx More specifically.... https://www.marathonind.com/280250-4-Flat-Free-Tire-P105.aspx

There is a ton of different dyes out there...

ON my MF GC1715 the background color od sight glass is silver, if fluid on in sight glass the portion of background covered takes on a greenish cast.... Otherwise hydraulic fluid die is going to help....

Any HST in neutral should free wheel....

According to this picture if cover with start capacitor and relay "slip" connects with wired terminals and with what appears to be check valve below pressure switch, all you are missing is L1/L2 (from fuse/circuit breaker) routed through pressure switch to pump control box....

Typical if you look closely the brand name and model number will probably be imprinted on sleeve of female QD.... With brand name and model number you can order exact same QD in after market or find a "generic" QD the will work same as what is on tractor now.... Why make pressure gauge when...

Wiring guide to Franklin Electric 2801084915... https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/2801084915-Wiring.pdf https://www.supplyhouse.com/Little-Giant-2801084915-Standard-Submersible-Motor-Control-Box-1-HP-230V-1-Phase

Have to believe what winterdear says.... There is at least a start capacitor in box along with a relay... Below is typical setup as we do wells on west coast..... Pressure switch to pump controller.... Though my controller is different from one pictured in message #1, its typical of...

Common and even maybe NEC code is to put both L1/L2 through pressure switch, otherwise you have a always hot leg going into pump and it may feed back and cause you harm (electrical shock) if you assume the pump is switched OFF by pressure switch....

Umm second picture shows a pressure tank, pressure switch and the starter controller ..... Do you have this or is pict for example.... You are going to want a check valve between well head and pressure tank otherwise when pump shuts off water is going to drain back into well..... Something...

You escape from here.... Facebook login required.... https://www.facebook.com/groups/5508502585925303

Brush guard is almost exactly what I had in mind..... Gathering up a few more odds and ends and I going to start fabricating....

Sounds like you have good idea of what's needed.... I have a "on the road" tool box (left over from autocross race days) .. Contains: Metric/SAE socket set Metric /SAE combination end wrench set Assorted screwdrivers Assorted pliers "Crescent" wrench or two... Hammer Hand full of ZIP ties Small...

IF its all about availability go with the one that gives you more choices and more product availability..... NPT has been around for a million years, its not that difficult to get proper thread seal with some of the sealing chemicals available today...

I have used a draw bar BUT also made adapter/bracket to keep it from rolling. similar to graphic in Redbug post.. Then there is this.... https://www.amazon.ca/Kubota-Drawbars-Drawbar-Category-Tractors/dp/B09Z2MYYTW?th=1

Get stand alone splitter, it keeps tractor free to maneuver timber/logs/rounds/splits around in wood lot....

Your comment is out of context, the comment was for someone TIGHTENING a bolt or nut......

JUst do it....

Hate chipping slag... That is one (of many) reason for abandoning stick.....

And who calibrates that ..... What is its guarantee to be accurate....

Speaking of thread lubrication.... Next do we want to get into Torque VS Bolt Stretch....

And what would you trust if torque value was above your present torque wrench range..... Go out and buy a $600 model that will see 99.8% of its life in a box on shelf....

Not just any old plastic pipe (pvc), use only air line certified plastic or steel.....

Depends I guess but there is also (other than mechanical torque multiplier) as torque wrench extension.... Are we talking a bar or socket extension...

And another thought, how may people are really conscientious about the few drops of oil in air tool every once in a while.....

If that is so why do torque multipliers state in instruction how to apply torque (with a torque wrench) above and beyond the rated value of a torquench to tighten nuts and bolts....?

Actually if you do a real research torque wrench "calibration" is sort of myth as most are within reasonable limits to be accurate enough for just about everything but space agency devices.... Was a few good youtube videos a while back showing several different wrenches in differing conditions...

Now comes the question, has anybody used a torque wrench?....

Interesting... Never thought of putting gauge before relief valve, always thought it should be after..... New way of thinking every day..... And Yes I realize the pressure in system can not go above relief valve setting if its function properly.... And yes I split a lot of hard dry oak on a 30...

Using cheater bar with 1/2 drive socket is only going to break the tools and get you hurt.... If you need cheater pipe on 1/2 drive socket tools, it time to upgrade to 3/4 inch drive ( or 1 inch) .... Its also possible you may need torque multiplier..... One with 1/2 inch drive input and...

Maybe its not a "Z".... Maybe its half of a (flyback) diode symbol.... Look up "flyback" diodes and you will see how they are wired across relay coils...

Maybe this will help...

If popping breaker on 120V the problem is not the welder but supply amperage for 120V receptacle.... Upgrading to a 30 amp circuit solved the problem for me with my Hobart Handler 140....

I think its a diode symbol by way its wired across relay coils....

Best thing for mud is to stay out of it..... Twice I have had to use Jeep with winch to pull tractor out of mud bog....

Search Google Images or text search for "Massey Ferguson suitcase weights" Maybe... https://www.partsasap.com/weight-suitcase-79-lbs-new-massey-ferguson-128785.html

50 Cal ammo box, if tool does not fit into it, tractor goes into shop where there is a full complement of tools...

MIght try checking price of 6255415M99 at Linstrom Eq... https://www.lindstromequipment.com/other/pid1978523/set-valve/

Just for giggles and grins, locate the line that comes from the "PB" (power beyond) port of FEL control valve and goes to "P" (power) port of 3PH cylinder.... That is line you will be removing and placing your new lines and control valve inplace of... Had thoughts of add PB to my GC1715...

One of the real killers of spindle repair is when self tapping bolt breaks off in spindle housing..... Last set of spindles I bought actually came with 5/16 bolts and nuts.... Big improvement IF i have to remove them again....

Now that could be a subject all its own.... I prefere "PROSTAR" solid wire which is house brand of LINDE....

Cursory search seems to indicate dozens of suppliers and prices as low as $1.70 per bearing when bought is volume of 10 or more...

We all understand your position, its been stated may times.... But not all of us operate under same conditions as you....

I personally use a drag harrow for leveling driveway and gopher mounds and what ever need to be leveled/smoothed....

Need to get past refill mentality and embrace exchange mentality when using shield gasses or oxygen/acetylene systems....

Think you need to really consider dual purpose machine (GMAW/FCAW) as both have their uses in different ways..... And cost wise, not that much difference.... I been welding with GMAW for about 8 years now and I still have about half of the demo roll of FCAW wire in drawer... If you do get dual...

UNderstand that all to well.. Had wild fire come down to my "defencive space" (100 clear area around house) a few years ago.... Sorry for your loss.... Nothing funny about fire....

Odd.... My GC1715 (25 hp) does not have any problem with 600lb ballast on QH.... Manual for my 1715 says lift capacity at "ball ends" is 1191 pounds (540Kg) seriously doubt the QH is culprit for causing poor lift of ballast...

For ballast I made a 2x2x1 foot box from scrap.... Filled it with concrete... Concrete is about 150 LBS per cuft...So its about 600 LBS.... Don't forget to put some sort of loop on top, if you tip it over you need loop to get it upright again...

Actually grill bottles are at marker/hardware store exchanges.... ... 5 Gallon or 20 pound whatever you prefer to describe them as .... Tare weight of tank is about 19 pounds so full tank is about 40 pounds....... 100 Pound is 25 gallons and stand over 4 feet tall and weighs in about 170 pounds...

My tractor came with colored ZIP ties.....

Funny because propane tanks have a safety collar and SCUBA tanks don't.... May be because propane is a flammable gas and SCUBA tanks only contain compressed air.....

Have ODYSSEY brand battery in my Jeep, it runs very little, but always there... Big CCA as it is used for winching at times... AGM batteries (not necessarily brand specific) are probably more robust than standard plate batteries, well worth the extra cost.... Had one actually last about 20 years...

You obviously have not worked much with chain..... One places hooks on top plate of bucket with closed end forward..... Placing on back with open end down mean chain can/will fall out of hook if there is slightest slack in chain.... Remember what gravity does and any loose chain will take...

That is just INNERDUCT.... Actual fiber cable is much smaller and pulled in when all the innerduct is connected to appropriate building/fixtures....

The thing about collar rings is there are so many names and so many companies that no longer exist.... It think its pretty much IGNORED..... Only thing I found different is one local welding supply paint all their bottles blue and stencil their name on them.... That tells me they are...

Alway found 1/2 drive SAE and Metric standard sets fill 99% of my use ( home/ranchette owner) .... Only variation is 36mm gland nut on VW flywheels... If you try piece parting its always going to cost you triple what a set will and you will always be missing the one size you really immediately...

Really like the grill/brush guard....

I think in your initial statement you nailed it.... Top hinge and check chains..... 50,000 dump trucks can't be wrong....

I'm of the school that it can be welded back on.... Either by you or a professional, depending on your welding skills....

Could be...

Look at valve body closely and see if it has a "CGA XXX" designation.... Certain valve body types have different configuration for different gasses..... Its a first clue to what type of gas may be in cylinder.... https://www.concoa.com/cgachart.html

Actually Lindie dropped the PRAXAIR name a while back and is now LINDIE.... At least at my dealer and their online website...

Not all of us have a "compressor plant" within reasonable range..... That is why we exchange....

I "own" three tanks, oxygen, acetylene and C25.... Do not have bill of sale for the oxy and acet, were purchases maybe 30 years ago and bill of sale (receipt) has disappeared same as dealer who sold them to me.... Possession is ownership.. C25 tank all I have is a copy of receipt whose corbon...

Convexed???....... What were the engineers thinking....

You probably don't need anything more the 2500# winch fro brush pulling, and attached to bucket is pretty good chance of bending or wracking lift arms....IF you are going to mount a winch do it rigidly to tractor frame as in post #5... If you do a lot of winching with electric winch you will...

IF you are getting a MMM (Mid Mount Mower) you are limited to 2 inch wheel spacers....

Try this link... And use "North America" https://www.agcopartsandservice.com/

Was just on it this morning.... Check your bookmarks....

Personally.... Bolt On Hooks, not questionable quality from Amazon.... https://www.boltonhooks.com/ Wheel spacers...Probably don't need to fill rear tires, does not add that much, BUT you do have BH for "ballast".... https://bro-tek.com/products/index.php?addon2[]=Wheel%20Spacers Factory...

Basically a mini steer is a lot of muscle in small package where you can not get your wheeled tractor with a FEL into.... What exact use where you contemplating with a mini excavator vs what a mini SS can do?....

Have not taken the plunge (yet)... Only thing holding me back is I only need it for a few weeks to a month removing fire/storm damaged trees but would also be better than having to pay a crew to come and do the work at the sum of $1800 a day... And my SUB compact tractor is not really BH...

Chinese excavator (cheap) .... Buy it, use it, sell it when no more work for it.... Anyway that is my thought process at the moment... The thing is the excavator in more mobile than a BH and can you BH lift 1.5 tons...

Had one single zerk in my FEL bucket that would not take grease... Period.... Pulled the pin and cleaned the channel cleaned and tested zerk, and all good, putting back to gether and pin would still not take grease.... Raised bucket and changed angle on buchet , it took grease.... Problem...

Had similar problem on one of my JD lawn tractors, if it has B&S engine the plastic "bendix" drive on starter may be "gone"....

You win for number of stitches.... I only got 6 with chainsaw incident....

I cut my logs into multiples of 16 inches (usually 4 feet) and use a set of FEL forks to move them to log deck where they are later cut and split to fireplace size .... With some crafty maneuvering I can load 4-6 logs and never have to leave tractor seat...

Since I don't have a BH, I went simple route... Box is 50Cal.

Some people say diesel fuel works...

My return line for my DUERR 22 ton (30+ year old made by MDT) has filter rated for 400PSI..... Don't have to wonder why....

I made a 2x2x1 foot box for my ballast (4 cubic feet) and concrete weigh about 150 pounds per cubic foot... So my ballast is about 600 pounds.... Maybe a little heavy , but it works for me.... NOT photoshopped live picture.... Dead Deere weighs in at 520 lbs according to JD documents...

I usually cut logs in multiples of 16 inches (actually 4 feet) and use forks to move them to "log deck" where they are later cut and split for fireplace size... For anything other than forks or a grapple, you need a swamper to "harness" logs to tractor....

What is AMP rating of your 110volt unit... I have Hobart Handler 140 and I can burn 1/4 inch steel and have good penetration... Technique and wire quality has a lot to do with it....

Actually sweet spot is using a alternator that is internally regulated and one can eliminate external regulator....

It's not a phase thing..... A 3 wire alternator usually has a B+ to battery (charge lead), and a lead to ALT light on dash and a 3rd lead to supply +12 volts to alternator to give it initial spike of 12 volts to start charge sequence.... A 2 wire alternator will have a lead from B+ to battery...

Don't think engine got any water in it, but HST filler was definitely under....

Get quality hydraulic return line and with proper barbed connector worm type hose clamps should be good.... THe hoses on my splitter wer 25 years old ans still good (I think) but in adding new engine and I decided to replace hoses and filter. Tha ias about 5 years ago, all is still good...