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Hi Randy, Perfect! This is exactly what I needed. Thanks everyone very much for their help and responses!

Hi Richard, Thanks very much for your reply. Here are two more pics that are further away from the springs location. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!

Hi Folks! Thanks for all the recent help and kind feedback on removal of stuck connecting rod screw. Now the same engine has a choke return spring that connects from the choke shaft to? This engine was given to me and the spring was in a box with many other parts. I can see where one end...

Believe me, it was! I did use the ratchet and six point with no success. The other one came out easily. I thought about the upside down position, but I was turning the correct way. Thanks for your input!

Got it! Thanks everyone for their ideas. This is what I came up with. Using my dremel and a composite cutting wheel, I cut a slot into the head and then using a flat punch and hammer, pushed down on the edge of the cut and it came free almost immediately! Got plenty of spare bolts so back in...

Hello, Thanks for your response. Yup, sounds right. Grinding the head may be a good solution. Should be easy with my dremel.

I don't have an air hammer, but you've given me some ideas. If I used my Dremel and cut a slot into the head of the bolt and then use a chisel to apply torque to the slot, maybe that will begin to move it. Thanks for your suggestion.

I wish I could get my impact in there, but not enough room. I need to buy a small air powered one that gets into tight spaces. Thanks for the suggestion.

Hi Again, Yup, tried this also. I did tap it when I heated it. I thought the same thing about the thread lock. Probably what's causing it.

Hi There, Thanks for the reply. Been there, tried that. Nope.

Hi All, I have a Briggs 12000 series engine that I'm tearing down for rebuild and can't remove one of the screws attaching the connecting rod to the crank. One came right out, but the one closest to the piston is a bit longer and I've tried everything I can think of the remove it with no luck...

Thanks for your reply. I finally found a solution with the spring I have. I stretched the spring slightly and it worked perfectly! I appreciate the responses.

Hi! Thanks for your reply. Yeah, I know I can do that, but when I tried it with a used spring, it made no difference. Hoping someone had an actual parts book for the HSSK series so I could see the other two springs.

Hello! I have a Tecumseh HSSK50-67272L engine that needs a new governor spring. What I'm running up against is that there are three springs for different applications and only one is available. I've ordered this one and it doesn't work for my needs. The spring I have is 31426. If you look...

Hi Richard, Thanks for your reply. As far as I can tell, it doesn't go through the block and the hole is about 3" down in inside the cylinder from the top. I've never seen this before and rather than take a chance, I'm going to recycle the block. No sense in taking any chances. Thanks...

Hi All, I was just honing the cylinder on a Tecumseh LEV 115 360021C engine, when I discovered a very small hole in the side of the cylinder wall on the side of the valves a little more than half way down. It has oil seeping from it and I'd never seen this before. No mention of this in the...

I agree. I have several good sources online with Ebay that I often buy whatever individual gaskets, rings, whatever so that I can avoid entire kits. Many buy complete dealers' closeout inventories and have NOS parts to offer.

Hi Randy, Thanks very much for the information. I understand they want to cover several models, but it adds an unnecessary cost to the kit. Oh, well. Again, my thanks Hi Randy, Thanks very much for the information. Makes sense; I've had kits like that before with several of the...

Hi All, I'm rebuilding a Briggs 12S907 1411 B1 OHV 8HP engine and bought a complete Briggs OEM gasket set. I'm putting the head back on and there are two different head gaskets in the package. The original one went out in the trash awhile back, so I don't have it for comparison. One has what...

Hi All, We are looking for recommendations for the best brand, models, etc of tow behind lawn vacs. Not interested in using on a mower, but rather with a long hose to reach into flower beds and remote areas. I do have PTO capability or can tow behind a lawn tractor. Any experiences you may...

Hi All, After all the usual checks and suggestions, turns out the problem was even though the coil was new and it had spark initially, it failed and I didn't check it since it was considered "new." Dumb mistake, but lesson learned! Thanks to all for their input!

Thanks for the message. The wire to the engine brake goes from the tab on the mag to the tab on the kill switch. I cleaned the bottom of the switch and the block to insure good ground.

OK, here we go. It's now mounted on a frame from a pressure washer that I have saved because the mounting holes match perfectly to the GCV160 series. Nothing on the crankshaft. The mower deck was rusted so was recycled. The idea of using a good plug is the next step in case that is the...

Hi! New plug installed. Good idea to use a plug with black soot, as this would make it easier to see. Still working on it. Engine came from a Troybuit push mower. Thanks!

Good Morning! Thank you both for your suggestions. This engine does not have a low oil system (that I know of) and oil is full. I did disconnect the kill wire and there was no spark, but the module is new (Honda not aftermarket). I bench tested the module with a VOM and it tested fine.

Yup, that's what I thought with this, as there was a chew mark on the terminal end where it hooks to the mag. Changed that wire and still no spark. Checked stop switch with a VOM and it checked out OK. Thanks for the reply.

Hi All, I have a Honda GCV160 engine that has no spark and I've tried a number of solutions with no results. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Here is what I've done so far: New coil (old one tested bad) still no spark Tested flywheel brake shut off switch - still no spark Found some...

Hello! Thanks very much for this information. It would be great if that's what is causing the burning. Beats a complete tear down! Engine has 561 hours and uses absolutely no oil. I use Mobil1 10W30 and change the oil every fall. Always been a great mower.

Hi, Thanks for this information. The serial number of the tractor without the last three digits is MOL266BO74. I think I've got it nailed down, but welcome continued input. Jim

Great idea! Thanks for your reply and I'll check this out. Jim

Hi Folks! I have a Deere LX266 lawn tractor that needs rings and the Kohler model sticker is gone, so I'm trying to find out what model engine I have so that I can order the correct parts. So far, I found that it is a CV series engine (16HP) and there were two models produced for that tractor...

Thanks Randy, I'll check this out. I use this website alot, don't know how I missed these! Take care.

Where did you see these? Thanks much!

Hi Randy, Thanks for the reply. Yup, I agree. The only problem I'm having is finding a carb to replace the one I've got. When I put in my model, it brings up the newer carbs that don't have a manual choke. They have several adjustment screws on the top which mine doesn't have. I'm going to...

Hi All, Having trouble finding the part number for the carb needle seat on a Honda GCV160 5345817 N5R engine with manual choke off a Troy Bilt pressure washer. I can find the needle, but not the seat. Anyone have a part number? Thanks in advance! Jim

No, no tag. First thing I looked for. Thanks for your message and Happy 4th!

Hi All, I was given an old horizontal Tecumseh engine that I'm guessing is about 5 horse, but the shroud is missing, so no tags to ID the model. It is mostly complete otherwise. Is there another spot on the engine that gives the model? Thanks in advance!

Hi All, Does anyone know of a vertical exhaust kit for a B7500? Many thanks!

Hi Carl, Good to know this. We don't want ground covering removed, just the top layer of leaves. We'll keep this in mind. Thanks!

Thanks everyone! Great input and products to check out. Appreciate your time!

Hi All, We have a Kubota B7500 tractor and are looking for a three-point hitch, PTO powered leaf and debris vac. We are not looking for a model that attaches to a deck, but rather one with a long hose to reach into flower beds, etc. If anyone knows of such a beast, please let us know. Thanks!

Hi All, Thanks for all your responses. I believe we've narrowed down the problem to a bad starter switch. I'll post and let you know for sure once a new part is installed. Happy Memorial Day!

Hello! Thank you for your response. This is interesting. When I first went to use it this spring, it worked and started perfectly. What model LX do you have? I need a picture of the starter connections to make sure I've got them correct. This is a single cylinder 16HP Kohler.

Richard, I believe I did that test, unless I did it incorrectly. I removed the starter and took it to a local shop where they tested it in front of me and it ran normally. I have had difficulty with the positive cable in the past, so I'm going to get a new one tomorrow and see if that makes a...

Hi Richard, I appreciate your reply. Since I posted, I put the VOM lead on the negative post and the other on the larger nut on the solenoid, and it read 12.62V. When I put the leads on both cables (cables are attached to posts) it also reads over 12V. I was thinking about one of the safety...

Hi All, Hope someone out there has a solution for my lawn tractor. Started right up this spring, turned it on and off numerous times then went to start it yesterday and no soap. I turned the key to the on position and got the usual red dash light, turned key to the start position and then...

Just a note to update on the latest with this issue. Received a new needle and it fit perfectly! Shorter than the other so the right needle was the problem. Thanks again for all feedback! Jim

OK, will do. Just ordered the new needle so it will be a few days. Thanks again for your input and help! Jim

After further research on this carb, it seems Honda had two different lengths of needle valves with two different part numbers. When I put the old needle back in, it leveled immediately. The new valve I ordered was noticeably longer. I should have checked that before. Thanks for your spot on...

Yes, the carb was thoroughly cleaned with soaking in paint thinner and then ultrasonically cleaned. Yes, compressed air was used. I do not see any type of rubber or nylon seat in the needle chamber. I feel the same way about the length of the needle valve; I'm going to double check the part...

Hi Richard, Thanks for your reply. This engine was given to me and the previous owner reported no compression. I removed the valve cover and the intake valve was stuck, so freed it and compression was good. The carb leaked, so I replaced the needle, as when pressure tested it leaked air...

Hi All, I have a Honda GCV160 that the carb float won't level. I tried both a used and new float and neither sits level when installed. No adjustment, so wondering what might be causing this? I changed the needle, as well. Thanks in advance for any help!

Hi Randy, Engine pulls easily without the plug. There is acceptable free play between the end of the crank and the sump. As soon as I get a minute, I'm going to check the valves again. Thanks!

Hi Tom, Thanks for your reply. I honestly didn't check the timing gear closely, but the timing marks were correct when I reassembled it. A friend of mine with a bit more strength than I, was able to start it and it ran well, so with the exception of the high compression, the engine runs as it...

Hello, Thanks for your reply. I assume you're speaking of a leak down tester? If so, yes I did and it had no leaks. When air pressure was applied, it flywheel moved a bit. Hope this is what you were referring to. Jim

Hi There! Thanks for your reply. This is one of the first things I checked, as I removed the coil and flywheel to clean them. That didn't seem to make a difference, but certainly worth checking again. As for the shadetree measurement, I use an index card with good success, but do have feeler...

Good Morning, Thanks for your reply. I did change the camshaft, but it not appear to have any damage to the CR. The metal wire on the shaft was intact. Hope to check the valves again today. Thanks for your input! Jim

Hi Randy, Thanks for your reply. The flywheel brake was the first thing I checked and made sure it was free of the flywheel. As to the rod bearing, I did remove the rod bolts and re-torqued, but no change there. I didn't inspect the bearing, though. I'm going to check the valve clearances...

Hi All, This community has been very helpful to me and I'm looking for some help with a Briggs 12H802 1752 B1 engine that has excessive compression. It pulls very hard on the compression stroke and is nearly impossible to turn the flywheel by hand. So far, I've checked the valve lash and the...

Hi All, Got a bit of a dome scratcher. I have a basic compression tester that has always worked well on my briggs/techumseh rebuilds, but went to use it this morning and it won't read at all. Then I tried it on my Stihl MS 250 saw and it immediately started to read when I pulled the cord. I...

Hi Randy, Thanks very much for your message. OK, I'll try and see what I can do with my ohmmeter. I saw a video online where the one used had a tone when the spot was reached and mine doesn't, so I'll just have to experiment and see what happens. Thanks again! Jim

Hi Richard, I hope you don't mind another Tecumseh related question. I have an HS50 I'm painting and restoring and as many have found, timing one is a pain. I don't have a dial indicator, but do have a digital caliper. The specs say .080 BTDC, and I measured this distance carefully. I...

Hi Richard, Thanks for all your help! I adjusted the main jet and idle accordingly and it runs great! I think that kinked tube was the main culprit. Take care and thanks again! Jim

Wow! Didn't know that. Well, I replaced that tube and took it outside just now and it started right up and idled nicely, but if you try and accelerate too quickly, it stalls out. If you try slowly, it's fine. Gotta be a fine adjustment maybe in the governor adjusting screw?

OK, the kinked vent tube is the primer tube. The other end fits into the primer bulb. The screw you mentioned doesn't appear to do anything. It's just screwed through the cover and is far from any contact with the engine itself. I put the cover back on and there is no binding anywhere that I...

Hi Richard, Here are a few pics of my blower. I'll be interested to see what you think.

Hi Richard, Thanks for your reply. Hmm, both things worth checking. The guard that is in front of the carb intake spaces the cover from the intake, so don't believe it's coming from there. As to the governor being interfered with, that's a possibility worth checking. Without the cover, I...

Hi, Thanks for your reply. I agree the cover shouldn't make a difference. I've worked on many of these snowblower engines, and none has ever done this. No screws out of place that I know of, just a dome scratcher!

Hi All, I've been having difficulty with a carb on a Tecumseh 7HP snowblower engine, model HSK70 on a Simplicity blower. I bought a new carb and it ran very nicely until I put the metal cover back and then it ran poorly, mainly revved higher. Difficult to adjust once cover is on except for...

Thanks Randy! Much appreciated! Jim

Hello! I'm in need of some help finding the correct part number for a replacement piston on a 5HP Briggs that I'm rebuilding. There are several part numbers for this piston, and I just want to make sure I'm ordering the correct one. Engine model is 12H802 1752 B1. Code is 99100756. Thanks...

Hi Randy, Thanks for your reply and help. These were both things I figured were my options. I did grind the face a bit more, but it did little to close the gap. I just ordered a new valve, so that should take care of the problem. Thanks again for confirming my options and take care. Jim

Hello! I am rebuilding an 80000 series Briggs 3HP engine from 1962 and was adjusting the valve clearances when I found there was an excessive gap between the valve and tappet. Intake side was fine and adjusted nicely. Valves were lapped and are clean with a new bushing installed on the...

Hi Randy! Thanks very much for the part number. I don't have a service manual, just the parts pages, so appreciate the number. Take care and thanks again! Jim

Hello! I am looking for a part number for a 3HP Briggs motor model 80902 exhaust valve bushing. Any help would be greatly appreciated! No part numbers listed in parts manual. Jim

Hmm, not sure - I'll have to try. I have an electronic tach that if you put it near the spark plug, it reads RPM, before I cleaned the governor shaft it was running slightly slower (4500) but now over 5000. You can clearly hear the difference. Thanks for your input; I'll try the throttle shaft.

Hello! I have a Briggs "ready start" 6.5 HP engine that starts right up, but according to my tach, it's high end speed is over 5,000 RPM! Carb has been cleaned and governor shaft removed and passage in the sump body cleaned and reinstalled. Can't seen to lower to recommended RPM (about 3750...

Good Morning Randy, Thanks very much for the part number! The kit you mentioned that was discontinued I have, although I had to buy bits and pieces from several sources to complete the kit. Took awhile to get them all, but at least I'm equipped to do the job. Thanks again and take care. Jim

Hi All, I'm rebuilding a Briggs 92500 series engine (3105 01) and need a part number for the intake valve bushing. I easily found one for the exhaust, but can't seem to locate a part number for the intake side. No bushing in there now; valve loose and needs a bushing. My Briggs maintenance...

Hi All, Ran across a problem with a Briggs 3.5 HP 90000 series motor. Doing a complete rebuild and had to put in a new exhaust valve, but after lapping it seems to "ride" up above the block a bit and has excessive clearance way in excess of recommended specs. I was thinking the seat may have...

I have attached two pictures of this mower.

Hi All, I need help identifying the Briggs and Stratton engine on a vintage Savage arms push mower model 31T, type 561. I can't seem to find any numbers on the cowl or the block. Any help would be appreciated!

Hello, First I wanted to thank everyone for responding to my ad recently asking for an obsolete Tecumseh exhaust valve. I was able to locate one thanks to this site. Now I'm looking for a Briggs Valve Guide Repair Kit number 19269, which is obsolete except for individual parts. I'd like to...

Hello! I'm rebuilding a Tecumseh engine and need a discontinued exhaust valve part number 36780 which is oversized. If anyone knows where I can find one, it would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

Hello All, Just working on a Tecumseh HH120 engine out of a Sears SS12 and got the nuts off the connecting rod but it just won't come apart no matter what I do. Never seen one do this before. I don't want to damage anything as I'm parting out the engine. Any suggestions? It's aluminum so...

Hello, I'm new to the site and need some assistance with a problem with my John Deere 210 (early serial) that I have been restoring from the ground up and when I start the engine, the transmission idler pulley won't turn when bolt is tight and the belt (new) starts to smoke. If not tightened...