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as a footnote, a worn idler pulley will throw belts in operation. check yours for play. unfortunately i have yet to find an idler pulley w/grease zerk good luck

as a contributing forum member, would be great to see a little less vitriol, more rational civility, & focusing on the topic of this thread, best regards

sounds like you're doing your homework & wise to post your question here. let us know how things go, regards

interesting anecdotal posts but....what is this thread really about? trading personal notes on name brands? not sure how definitive that can really be OP: given your original statement, what is your thinking so far? regards

prob wouldn't have happened if it were old school cable driven. but the electrical tach will have more accurate actual hours of operation rather than 540 pto engine rpm per hr of the mechanical tachs if that makes sense regards

sounds like an electrical tach rather than mechanical cable. hope an easy solution, regards

agree, GL5 80/90, or 75/90 hypoid gear oil will do fine. some use a heaver 85/140 but i steer clear. Kubota tractors come factory supplied sometimes with hydraulic fluid, but too thin in my estimation. don't overfill as may compromise seals, etc, you know that. welcome to forum, regards

As has been stated before if I was going to look for another tractor I would check out the online classifieds and see what a potential purchase was selling for and the availability of that model, then I would check the wrecking yards for used parts availability. Bentrim agree, but i wouldn't...

absolutely, & w/Mt Magazine in sight, you're already close to paradise. you might let us know how you go about sales. & Marketplace sounds like a good start, regards ` letting go in various life stages is something we all go through. if we can do it peacefully w/o personal conflict, so much...

completely agree

OP: also keep in mind when test driving @ dealer...a spin around the dealer's lot is a poor simulation of field conditions. sometimes compacts suddenly dwarf in size & hp once you get it home & on the field.

can you provide an image?

was thinking the same. certainly true in my own case, but not familiar with this type cutter. feel the HTL also reduces safety risk dismounting every time an adj is needed. i'll never go back... regards

`would having a hyd top link help in this set up? so that it could be adjusted on the fly?

TN8Man: believe you made a wise purchase. being a compact forum, there are countless threads of either wishing one had gone larger, or how to exceed the safe limits on tasks meant for a larger machine. done yourself good on this one, regards

agree w/above, although your cutter is heavy duty, multiple 3" saplings would put a strain on the hog & drive train, & as pointed out, would require a lot of clean up & would pose puncture liability as well. i'd go w/chain saw idea.

excellent response, cut to the chase. my choice of GL gear oils is for tractor & older pick up. i've stayed w/conventional GL5 80/90 hypoid since factory on tractor. for my '92 pickup, after using full syn GL5 75/90, have had numerous seal leaks, & now use conventional valvoline 75/90...

agree with your selection of GL5 over UDT as stated above for tractor ft axle. & personally go with 75/90 over 85/140 (esp for someone in colder climate) on the tractor. note i have no empirical experience or other data to support the decision other that what i've read. would be curious...

way back when i'd look for dial your octane Sunoco... now i just hit the local non ethanol 91 for 3.95 today, regards

truckdiagonistics: you might consider using 75/90 full synthetic (GL5 as 5030 notes) esp given you're in a colder climate as well. valvoline is at the top of my list, what is your ft axle capacity? btw: if valvoline syn is to costly for you, they also make a conventional 75/90 as well that i...

about any tractor that's been neglected or abused. good luck on your hunt, think it's a good idea to get a 2nd opinion when checking our your potential purchace

just to state the obvious, i'd never consider an online (or other) purchase unseen. in fact, once you locate a possibility, i'd hire a tractor mechanic to check it out as well, best of luck, & welcome to forum

you done well

good point. though should one fail on the road w/a load, well, maybe you can make it back. i just go by play in the bearing & service as needed. regards

there's an inner & outer bearing (i'm told the outer bearing receives more stress than inner but can't confirm). both should be serviced. have a tandem axle trailer as well, used a lot on dirt roads. jest like my old Massey, from time to time i rock the wheels by hand back & forth. if...

sounds good. overall weight? hp? may want to load rear tires esp w/cab an image once it arrives is required. best regards

seems to me one should let the stock season out if milled green before treating plus maybe easier to treat once installed? in addition, a solid pigment stain has better UV protection than semi transparent, Olympic & Cabot are good stndbys

or even a bit larger :-) let us know what you find before pulling trigger

curious what type of steel, mild low carbon? annealing or tempering necessary after fabrication? (if possible on low grade steel, not sure)

thanks for correction. but it's still like having a cab on a garden tractor. just my bias. at least the consumer these days has a wide range of options big & small, regards

good point, esp on smaller machines

for sub compacts 30hp or below, maybe, but on yours (50hp?) think the added weight would only help, esp on ground engagement implements. personally, i can't imagine a cab on sub compacts, but guess it does serve a purpose for those putzing around in the cold. regards

as a footnote to OP & MF135. great tractor, i had it's predecessor TO35 for 28 yrs. when finally purchasing new K, took me some time to realize the old school machine chassis was heavier than the modern day Kubota equivalent hp frame. weight is always a friend when choosing tractors, so if...

seems to me an MX series would be a good fit

glad Grizzly came through for you. have a full set of wood working machines from Grizzly as well, (incl spiral cutter head 8" jointer & 20" planer) but not the lathe. & yes, they've been supportive for a few issues i've had. i'm a retired machinist (& teacher) as well, best regards

how big a hurry are you? sounds like you've got the fever :-) best of luck

makes perfect sense if testing equip is at hand. probably more of a liability issue w/K, regards

interesting thread. this is basically a sub compact forum. i look with interest as sub compact owners frequently try to inch up their machine performance to accommodate different utility tasks that should have probably been considered before purchasing. make no mistake, i've been there...

Dakota was a mid sized workhorse. considered that as well back when purchasing my current toyota '92 4x4

actually was referring to Scout 1 (304 v8). never had experience IH pickups which were probably much more robust. i understand the Scout 2 (345 v8) addressed some of the weaknesses of the original model. `But the power plant & drive train held to the IH standard. the IH Scout 1 served me...

if you had a "secure" shell over bed w/tinted windows, would that deter theft in those situations?

good point, glad it can still be looked up on market. i probably make over generalizations on what i see. still would like to see more foreign utility truck diversity avail on US markets...i know, our regs make it complicated, regards

jyoutz ok that reveals my ignorance. the Jeep pu model i considered in '92 was unibody, & had the solid axle. i do dirt roads (utility not re) & the stout independent suspension is a good match. for those that go off roading, rocks, etc i understand the solid axle is preferred. anyway...

you could well be right. i have no personal experience with one. at the time i purchased my '92 beater, i considered Jeep pick up (predecessor to current). i wasn't sure about the uniframe design, & so glad i went with toyota. having said that, i'd sure love one of those earlier vintage...

there are numerous examples abroad in Europe & Asia of single cab pickups with extended beds, specialized utility trucks, etc. really unfortunate they are outlawed & unavailable in US i personally feel the US domestic truck market is homogenized & very limited to what's cosmetically in...

could well be. never heard that model. but the TO35 (predessor to M135) had either Std 4 cyl diesel or Continental gasser. either way, i had the pleasure of knowing that old warrior for decades. again, the M135 had the 3cyl Perkins regards...

didn't mention # of acres you're cutting. suggest considering a diesel front mounted ZT mower. also go with bar rear wheels rather than turf for the hill sides. & get all tires fluid or foam filled. to be honest, never been impressed w/sub compacts belly mowers... (boy, that will draw some...

follow above advice. you've invested in a good scheduled service, you can now reap the benefits. your dealer is flailing

been told by my parts guy at K many truckers use Howes. but i can't verify regards

i've had to change idler pulleys several times on my ZT. seems to be the weak link in the power train. belts generate a lot of heat, etc. always wondered why idlers don't come w/zerks. maybe manu think operators will over grease onto belt good luck w/yours

sounds like a good attn to detail on your part. a code reader port should be part of Tier IV technology if we have to follow all that crap. best regards

given moisture is the main culprit of injector failure in the discussion, too little attn is given to supplier moisture contamination issues. just go high volume suppliers if possible. operators with their own bulk storage systems are responsible for their own moisture related challenges...

`OP: sounds like your transaction is a monument to grease. be interested in just how much you currently consume grease monthly before this purchase. you got a huge wad of grease...wish i had 1k to purchase an overload like that. hopefully the product will not harden before it's consumed...

just like plowing. if you can wad it up in your fist, it's too wet. do yourself a favor, don't listen to just "let 'er rip"

sounds doable

float position should relieve pressure somewhat back dragging (unless you hit a big snag). i'd avoid down pressure, best of luck.

do you have a float function on your fel?

what is the weight of the flail? that's what i'd be looking at in addition to pto hp requirements. are you working on slopes? also are rear tires loaded?

what about a rear camera, may take some skill at 1st, but you can do it facing forward

have a few experienced sources quote the job. then compare what you'd pay for that equip plus the hundreds of hrs of your labor.

good point, but all it would take is a few analysis reports to give a general pattern of one's specific use. frequent analysis would not be necessary as a footnote, never done an analysis. i've stuck to my own personal regimen of interval changes on my '92 original truck engine w/320k still...

sound advice from your manual. as a caveat to change intervals based on tractor hrs., keep in mind that older mechanical hr meters are based on 540 pto rpm per hr, & that actual running time in hrs could be more esp when the engine is run at rpm that equates lower than 540 pto rpm. didn't...

problem is that all of this is opinionated & anecdotal, & to me, it's pointless to advise one's own personal oil change interval for others oil analysis is the only way to determine an oil's condition & need for change. otherwise we just impose our own oil regimen on others with our empirical...

a true troll on display. prob best to avoid, some people need even negative attention believe i'll stick w/my current change interval & let the buffoonery to those much wiser than me, who knows, this could be AI generated.

OP: what exactly is your point, & why are you consuming so much oxygen to state it? you give only empirical conjecture. as though you're looking for attn. black oil matters.... regards

luck of the draw my friend based solely on your empirical experience. glad it has worked out for you.

Howes diesel treat additive https://howesproducts.com/products/diesel-treat welcome to the forum

wonder if grease hardens over time, maybe only when air exposed

good above advice. esp draining fuel. good luck with everything, esp since you bought the machine on good faith that had sat that long. regards,

same. as mentioned in the thread, i also leave hood open. i want to look into a solar powered light that stores energy in day & works at night. plus the led is a lot safer than incandescent to hang in the engine compartment. any example products out there?

to me the difference of having a TB vs not, is like the difference between a round nosed & square nosed shovel

good point. on vintage tractors, not sure there were any hyd/transmission filters? my MF T035 did not. could be current tractors don't have them exposed on the upper level is for cosmetic reasons. glad i operate my M series w/plenty of clearance of access & potential damage to the thin...

more accessible is convenient, but being more accessible could make it more vulnerable to damage in field conditions, esp since it seems most forum members have lower profile sub compacts, regards

to me it depends on your particular use to determine interval change in addition to straight hrs of operation. multiple cold short runs imho is not doing the sump oil any favors, so i'd change more frequently. most of my application is utility use exceeding 1hr or more per session...

i use Mobil1 10/30 per manual recommend of my CH compressor Question: mine sits on my covered porch w/outside ambient temp. the manual recommends no operation below 40F or excessive wear, etc my application is occasional use. your thoughts?

sure are a lot of new ones on the road now despite reputation.

the Perkins 3 cyl diesel was used in the MF135, not in the earlier model TO35 (that had either Standard 4cyl diesel or Continental 4cyl gasser)

good thread. unfortunately, pattern makers, like tool & die, are rare these days

agree. in terms of regs, well, i really don't know the answer. guess one could go for a jog in Mumbai to find out. complex problem in a troubled world

"You can always tell when a politician is lying--their lips are moving." blitzen absolutely agree, lies certainly abound today more than ever (if one can separate fact from friction.) regards

call service dept of your dealer

sounds like things are in place. that industrial size certainly overshadows my Grizzly 17", but i'm well satisfied. a 16' blade is something to observe, let us know the outcome of repair, regards

whoa, that's colossal. assume you can find the blades at a specialty supplier. i understand now your reasoning for restoring it's use. regards

interesting thread. what size or swing? is the saw, 17" or greater? sounds worth restoring the vintage machine

have a Woods hd bar bolted on mine that i haven't removed since tractor purchase. go as heavy duty as possible. to me having one is like the difference between a round & square nosed shovel operators probably already know FEL is not meant for excavation esp with a small sub compact your...

i agree

a few close up images would be useful. also if using heat for repair, i like to wrap wet towels close to the repair on each side to avoid heat radiating & possible warping the wheel. good luck

curious your application for the rake. having owned one but used little, i'd say go with the heaviest duty model.

OP yes weight is a good thing

nice, looks robust for a tractor of that HP

community & agri adult ed trade classes are a cheap & great way to introduce a person to this trade & skill. highly recommend along with safe personal experimentation along the way in re to above post on brazing, agree. i like the coated rod & preheating/grinding the joint esp cast. regards

as a caveat, teaching jr hi shop for years, i had some of them using torches. but without flashback arrestors. boy what a fool i was...glad i reached retirement w/o incident.

i went decades w/o them as well....but recently installed, no reason to tempt fate.

i stand corrected

OP: once you get the regs, be sure to install inline flash back resistors on both hoses regards

might do a compression check to start if you can get the right gauges, procedures best of luck

sounds like a good set up. guess solar panel efficiency has improved over the years. the Bay Area has a lot of fog, esp SF how efficient are your panels in cloud cover?

do a forum search. a while back the same complaint from someone who later installed a block plug heater. bingo. i had the same TO model for 28 yrs. yes it's hard starting in cold. i would cheat sometimes & use ether. (prob not recommended) as a footnote, look at your intake. it has a large...

are dryer sheets flammable? i hesitate to put them close to exhaust manifold

corporate tax benefits were installed a while back. along with "the "greenies" hippies that have gotten into the EPA and it's management to shove there agenda down our throats and make us accept it" : are the record profits of corporations worthy of this discussion as well? or are us "small...

good point. each generational transition is complex. after all, aren't we the beneficiaries of the greatest generation that proceeded us? always been a believer in the frontier spirit & wide open opportunity (walt whitman, my hero) hope my daughter & grandson can feel the same in time...

most of us ol' timers here can complain, but are pretty well set up. the newest of my 3 vehicles is an '06. but sorry to see younger generations struggle with new vehicle prices along with high housing costs. part of the world we're leaving them regardless of what side of the aisle you're on

good post, sounds like my use is similar

as a footnote, the hyd shuttle on MXX40's are mechanically operated by a cable on the steering column. i have had to adjust a turnbuckle close to the lever for cable stretch. easy, but something to remember if it is not engaging fully in either direction. i do wish K had provided some kind of...

you're doing an outstanding job so far. the end product will be true vintage i had the TO35, predecessor to yours, for 28 yrs, with a different engine. yours i think is a Perkins 3 cyl. commendable work

agree, it does get complicated. & it does pay do to one's homework. OP: posting on this forum is a good start. i'm very pleased w/my own hyd shuttle set up, regards

this discussion depends on what tractor manufacturer is in question. my only experience is with hyd shuttle on Kubota Utility 8540. i always come to full stop (or slow coast) before changing direction with shuttle with out using clutch pedal the actuater valve within the wet clutch pack (as...

sounds simple. at least, no high $ dealer item. on newer models, the same? investing in quality code reader makes sense if check light can be easily reset by owner

interesting. how do you reset? on my old school '92 Toyota PU each ign cycle resets. now...all those sensors. regards

agree, replace breather plug. personally, i'd remove blades & sharpen upper side as you mention if the seals aren't leaking you're in good shape. nice cutter if everything else ok. eventually probably worth replacing blades & bolts at some point. i personally don't like sharpening blades in...

agree, reliability differs within various models of a given make. i'm also guessing your own maintenance schedule is probably better than most, esp if you're the original owner, etc. best regards

i have noticed in my region post covid: LOTS of new Jeeps of all sorts on the road. their reliability reputation apparently has not affected sales. being a college town, most are prob mall cruisers. regards, all the best for the vehicle & daughter at school

btw sounds like you're a great dad as well

worked for the Ship Scalers union (part of longshoremen) out of SF in early 70's. holes were torched within the internal hull baffles, we would climb inside w/lights & hand scale the hull rust. good money, didn't stay there long & very surreal

as mentioned earlier, rodents don't like large open spaces. so i keep my rig in an open field w/hood open & a few bags of moth balls. a large breathable sunshade works great in summer to protect from UV & also allows some light through

seems to me raw undeveloped land has jumped way up in demand & price since covid lock downs, etc. my real sympathy goes out to younger individuals who seem priced out of housing & rural land. in a way, they don't have the opportunity we did (& still do i guess) in some ways we are leaving a...

good, have a place in Fayetteville as well, the Buffalo is about 65 m from town, my mt place around 50. take care

Eddie: about 25 miles from Buffalo National River. mine is bordered by Nat Forest on 2 sides. you can still find land in that proxmity, but like the OP mentioned, sky high prices. but doable in surrounding areas. the elk stay mostly along the river itself. should you & wife ever decide...

OP: sympathize with the sky high prices of that acreage. hard to justify the price. hope at some point something comes up in your favor. being of later life stage, i'll probably sell my 128 acre mt top farm in 5 yrs or so: 25 acres cleared, 103 in timber (last logged in the 50's) w/4 spring...

yes to the 2 above posts, esp given the smaller size garden plot

yes, mine is splash lube. thanks. sometimes i use mine in 40F or less occasionally, not commercial. just wondering, thx

could be, not sure. manual recommends non detergent 30w but also mentions full synthetic M1 10/30. the manual also mentions not to operate compressor below 40F ambient temp. my question is what is the consensus on that temp for operation, regards

have a higher end 2 stage Campbell Hausman that has oil reservoir. It sits in a covered porch. what's the min ambient temp it can operate w/o damage to pump, etc? 40F? am using 10/30 mobil 1 syn as recommended by manual

in general i find test driving a tractor at a dealership lot is a poor way to simulate field use. In addition, i agree w/above posters that the MX series would be ideal for an estate tractor. & don't fall into the buying frenzy till you're certain which machine best suits your needs...

keep in mind a sub compact the size you are considering is not much bigger than a lawn/garden tractor. agree w/others, go larger w/that kind of acreage. you wont regret

a heavy duty tooth bar on a heavy duty utility tractor is a win situation. assuming the operator knows when to let up in a bind. extracted many a boulder from field & moved earth on dams thanks to the hd Woods bar... as far as back dragging, i just use the heel rather than blade, regards

have same set up w/Woods. btw the MXX40 series tractor is imho the best Utility series they've produced.

ouch, be careful. noooo, don't replace. think you're on the right track & have the luxury of time before repairing. keep us informed. best regards

thanks. i notice the small crack to the right as swell. looks doable, seems to me some grinding, welding, then an 1/8 cover plate would make it secure. can't really tell, i'm assuming this in the interior of firebox. best regards, & post a repair image after fire season.

images would save a lot of ink spilled on this subject

sounds like you're on the right track though. were it cast, much more problematic you might post before & after repair images, good luck also, after repair, (sounds very tacky) but wonder if you could tack a baffle plate on the door interior to help avert future issues?

ok sorry, missed that. much easier to repair

should it become available, you can be sure plenty of yahoos will buy

looks like a mall cruiser to me. but you can be sure suckers will buy. a fool & his money soon part ways

as mentioned, drill both ends, grind slight v groove along crack & braze w/flux coated rod. might consider slight pre heat as well. repaired a crack in cast iron pump housing, worked fine. regards

would never consider an EV. friend of mine who is also of late stage, mentioned he'll wait till they improve driverless mode. absolutely not me, with Musk at the wheel

seems to me there are 4 possible issues w/diesel fuel. gelling, lubricity, algae growth, moisture in the fuel. don't think i've ever seen a conditioner that addresses all 4. personally, i took the advice of my K parts guy & go w/Howes, as it covers 3 of the 4 above (but not algae). he...

venomous or anything that resembles a snake of any kind? probably best then to bring out the artillery to keep the peace at home

not intending to impose my belief system on anyone. just voicing an opinion in the forum like anyone else now the Burmese Python & feral hogs? take em out. best regards

ophidiophobia: extreme fear of snakes. only extermination for me would be around immediate compound, but only of venomous snakes. respectfully,

"Grapple can catch a snake, but there is a bit of luck involved in that one!!!" EddieWalker but not so much for the snake :-)

welcome to climate change extremes. hope you can find a solution. my experience is that the conventional zone system for plant species no longer applies. my nut trees rated zone 5 (i'm in 7) were wiped out in last year's polar vortex. sorry i can't help more, just saying between droughts...

agree on that, as one who's observed hay production in the Ozarks for 45 yrs. but the OP may have hay fever: the only cure of which is equip purchase. i've been there a few times myself in other ways

OP: you work hard in the oil fields, & return to an exciting adventure of land ownership. i'd be asking myself how do i really want to involve myself with the land on your well earned time off. i suggest to take your time before investing heavily in the hay trade. lease your hay fields, focus...

on my 12 sp, i always use low range 1st or 2nd in 4wd. that way i have time to catch any bind. to me, using taller gears puts stress on the entire drive train. keeping in mind, as mentioned, tractors are not meant for excavating, regards

Rotella T6 5/40 syn has been my choice for years. i'd choose it over the above examples OP: best of luck determining the problem

good point. this was in early 90's. not only are commercial under coaters extinct, but the cab only manual w/long bed are long gone. being of late life stage, glad i don't have to consider a new or recent model pick up purchase. they're a totally different beast today. regards

1st place i stopped off the showroom w/my new truck was a commercial under coater sure glad i did, no rust prob 32 yrs & 319k later (& runs like a champ) Winters are fairly mild here, but seems to me cities are more aggressive now in their chemicals, at least around here. OP: good luck in your...

the safety cops will be watching....take care & good new year to all

maybe describe your uses & reasoning for the upgrade. i'd be checking out other options as well, lots out there on 2nd hand market, best regards & don't forget to check sub frame units as well

if you stick w/the 5' you may also consider loading the rear tires. i think weight not pto hp would be the biggest challenge

best of luck on the repair. from a safety viewpoint, i'm not sure i'd trust the jack given the difficulty of repair. best regards

might call your dealer service dept & describe the issue. also after a long workout, pull the dipstick to see if any pressure built up. also read where 80/90 gear oil is more forgiving than UDT for axle leaks, but can't confirm as i've had no issues w/mind, regards

sounds as though you're on the right track hiring out & eventually considering a larger model tractor. regards

points well taken

"Well, I’d like to throw my arms up and surrender like you cause that would be easy, but instead, I’d like to start new programs in secondary schools to encourage kids to take up jobs working with their hands and tamp down the Ivy league criticism of kids that want to do that, too." Hay Dude...

correct on that. India is destroying itself through industrialization, & i believe the most populated nation in the world? a dangerous combination.

don't forget the air quality in Pakistan or India. prob the worst in the world. anyone booking a trip to New Delhi or Mumbai lately?

agree. OP: are you within striking distance of Kioti dealer? if so, i'd also be considering mid 40 hp w/cab, my understanding is that Kioti builds their platform slightly heavier than Kubota.

welcome to the forum, wise to post your intentions here. can't help specifically on those models. but my overall observation on this compact forum is that many here purchase a tractor, then soon regret not going up in hp/weight. then they post threads about exceeding the safe limits with an...

use a good diesel additive/stabilizer & purchase diesel from a high volume reputable dealer. maybe mr funnel or similar when fueling. those alone will extend fuel filter interval change as you mentioned, good to keep an eye on the separator.

what i thought. once again, us consumers foot the bill, not the ceo's or shareholders. thx on that

lots of informed replies on the subject. my question is: how will a corporation like Cummins offset the massive fine? surely not out of the pockets of board or shareholders? more than likely the cost will be passed to the consumer like you or me as usual. unless regulations of the fine...

dozer would pull it real nice. as you mention, too much working surface for the tractor

laptop poses no problems for me. don't much care for cell access to internet maybe i'm old school...to me ads are a small price for a free forum. are you suggesting paid membership as an alternative? best regards

as a safety note you prob already know: if the acetylene tank has been on it's side for transport, etc, allow them to remain upright overnight allowing the acetone to settle to avoid risk of the acetone damaging reg diaphragms also, whether the regs are new or old, stand aside of the regs when...

if the tanks haven't been used for that long, i'd 1st keep my eye on the regulators, not tanks don't see any problem with the acetylene

might also consider heartwood red cedar as well. nice work on the dovetails

with you on that. ensure the replacement splitter filter has factory micron specs, etc. you might also slightly open the hyd sump drain plug & draw off any moisture accumulated through the years w/o having to replace the entire capacity as you mentioned. regards

feel fortunate to have 91 ethanol free (today) @ 3.49. run it in all my small engines truck & sports car. only the "newer" '06 crv gets the regular junk

"Get yourself a Brix Refractometer and test the coolant with that" 5030 can you send a link to this coolant meter on Amazon, all i see are meters for home brew, etc thx in advance

my suggestion too. i've got about the same acreage in hay fields & have them leased out, have an M8540, but would never consider the equip investment given that amount of acreage. add the uncertainty of climate change w/drought & flooding & temp extremes, etc, & you have even bigger challenges...

you're prob correct. there is federal safety protocol. then it varies by state. bottom line, it's the contractor's responsibility to follow though enforcing. NW AR is rapidly growing. most all of the workers are Hispanic (excellent workers) but most workers i see cutting concrete...

i observe at ground level while the roofing crew completes the job

no doubt the abrasive dust did both grinders in. on the operator's side, i see a lot of residential, commercial, & public works concrete being cut in construction all the time. generally, 90% of the construction workers don't wear masks, safety glasses, or ear protectors. hell, replace...

electric engine oil heater dipsticks are available, but would not recommend.

worth replacing radiator cap as well. slight evap could be leaking past the cap seal. suggest OEM regards

OP: very likely just your torsion bar connecting the 2 arms is torqued so one side is unequal to the other. the arms themselves may not be bent. as suggested, do a forum search on the subject. it happened to my rig when one of the qr levers came undone. there are a few methods to correct w/o...

yes. wonderful creature that fell prey to human activity, like so many species today. this one pictured i believe is of the last remaining one in captivity. love that their lower jaw can open 90 degrees. i know, off topic, apologize, best regards...

i've just made a deal on a new L4060 Kubota with a cab and A/C, my first cab tractor. troverman OP: is your new purchase a decrease in hp? regards

blower also works great for cleaning air filter from inside/out.

rats don't like open spaces, so i keep my rig stored away from foliage & cover w/hood open 100' or so away from cover in an open field that seems to reduce rodent damage, hood open & mothballs deter as well. the dryer sheets are less effective for me, in fact i've seen the sheets in rodent...

Older Toyota manual vehicles call for 75/90 gear oil in trans & transfer case not 80/90. (80/90 in differentials). both GL5. using 80/90 in your manual transmission could have accelerated shifter linkage & syncro wear, esp during winter in your location etc. given OP's location, i'd go with...

your M series utility tractor should do just fine. btw, think 68hp is the rated engine hp, the pto hp is prob around 62-3 hp. that should be fine to run what you describe. patience is a virtue cutting rampant growth. just look at the pto hp rating for each implement you're considering...

10 ga 100' cord is the standard for 15a power tools & the like.

OP: dealer once mentioned that the self leveling function "robs" some of the fel lifting capacity. i have no way of knowing that not having one. anything to that? regards

perfect fit, best regards

nice rig. use the back seat mostly for passengers or storage? seems every rig now has full 4 door chassis. glad the vehicle fits the bill for you, regards

OP: looks like you have the patience & tenacity to repair your engine. glad you found the culprit. good advice given here as well... suggestion once repaired: i highly recommend using only ethanol free fuel in your machine. might be a good time to adjust the valves as well, regards

Boston. hauling in city? good luck w/repair, regards

i'd go w/either straight GL5 80/90, or Valvoline conventional 75/90 gear oil. synthetic 75/90 ok too, but much pricier. save the udt for hydraulics. btw you have an awesome tractor...imho pre tier4 M series stands head & shoulders above the rest...

seems to me you & wife have done an outstanding job & wise to inquire about how to safely finish the job. good luck along the way

that could well be. many variables including type of wood, conditions, & location. it's all about our own experience, one of the main functions of this forum. my only recommendation is that like paint, always go top of the line regardless of product type. as a footnote, been staining cabin's...

in terms of a sealer, i'd use a top water based stain on ply. Olympic & Cabot are my choice. 2 coats. have not had good luck w/oil based products on horizontal surfaces esp decks where water pools up. realize yours is incline, etc. good luck, regards

plugs, pts, ign wires as well. though feel it could well be fuel quality related if the machine was running fine months ago, good luck

https://store.germanbliss.com/Home/Assembly/servis-rhino-172-rotary-mower-driveline-assembly-parts

what grade gas do you use? assuming non ethanol? fuel treated as well? surely you've learned by now to use non ethanol in old tractor & small engines. empty tank & purge the system w/good fuel actually didn't realize the MF135 came with gas model, thought it was only 3cyl Perkins diesel...

modify the barn entrance if needed, choose the tractor size to fit your current & future needs don't box yourself in for the future, best regards

to be honest, when i got the K fever after 28 yrs of Massey TO35, i upgraded new machine purchases several times before my current machine...ouch, my bad. finally found the ideal machine before Tier4 came around. hint: a test drive around the dealer's lot (while they lick their chops) is a...

someone should post a survey thread: how many of you wished you had gone larger in your last tractor purchase? being a compact tractor forum, bet there's a lot. regards