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Question: for those who add ATF fluid & the like to their diesel fuel, what is likelihood of it messing up sensitive & complex modern def, etc, injection systems? thankfully mine is only Tier 2, but wondering hearing horror stories of moisture & other contaminants in Tier 4 systems, regards

is your profile name a pun on this subject?

OP: @ time of accident, did you voluntarily admit to authorities that the accident was med related when you came to? all the best working out the bureaucratic headaches w/your State drivers license. regards,

good point, & that's where reliable technology is best at work..

your honesty on the subject & learning from it is commendable, regards

friend of mine in late 70's has resorted to Tesla's driverless functions. personally i would never resort to that option, although most modern vehicles have numerous safety features that can help with age impaired drivers in vehicle operation, which is a good thing. but no, i'll be in charge...

OP: @ time of accident, how did it become known that the accident was med related? did you declare it at the time? glad good fortune was with you that day.

apparently your bud has not been around tractors or machinery much in his 70 yrs

wise move on pots. good to see aquatic vegetation, it also filters, etc the water. my 4 ponds are large & i keep Amur carp to keep things in control. keep up the good work

sounds like ATF works for you. what is the basis of your decision to use, personal experience or what you have read? regards,

nice job...lots of aquatic activity. are those lotus plants in one pic? in contained areas like yours, they add interest. in larger harder to control ponds, they can be very invasive. regards

glad it has worked for you, & best regards on this open dialogue forum additives & engine oil will always be a subject of discussion

It doesn't seem to have anything to do with the size of the tank, and why would it? TMK volume circulation. leave things sit, things will happen. the reason i always look for a high volume diesel supplier

you indeed were fortunate. bet for every fortunate experience like yours, there are many others that did not turn out so well with bulk storage given your cond. do note that in today's larger def Tier4 injection systems, even a remote amount of moisture can cause extensive damage to system...

`maybe so. think a lot of those organism problems occur in larger volume storage. my operation is small & requires only 5gal containers therefore good circulation. . however if i lived in a warm, humid climate with bulk starage, i would i would include an algaecide. in addition, fungus can...

`diesel fuel additives will always be a subject, like engine oil 1st rule: get the diesel from a high volume reputable source, goes w/o saying, i just said. the reasons for an additive are 4x fold. 1) moisture removal 2) anti gel in cold temps 3) lubricuity given low sulfur fuels 4) anti...

glad to see so much optimism owning smaller tractor in this thread that also includes safety precautions in use & maintenance. on the other side of the coin, on this compact forum i frequently notice many owners complaining lack of size, power of their tractors & sometimes push their...

what's wrong w/a weed whacker & zero turn walk behind? in the OP's location, there's initial Spring growth, then by this time of year, it significantly slows down. animals will foul the pond, larger hoofed animals will destroy pond banks & any marginal landscaping. otherwise consider it a...

here ya go https://www.msn.com/en-ca/news/offbeat/hundreds-of-goats-put-to-work-taming-overgrown-plants-in-nose-hill-park/vi-AA1Ku2li?ocid=hpmsn&cvid=689dfa4d5b4347cbafed926ab7435f82&ei=23

you've certainly caught the incurable K purchase fever. show pics in use when it arrives.

not sure what you mean, aspen/poplars are top of menu for beavers, after this one did 4 or 5, he started on the maples. i'm on a mt top, 1st one i've encountered, but my place is very wet natured & finally put a bounty on his pelt to my neighbor who took him out.

large hoofed animals are what stock ponds are designed for. however their presence will basically destroy a landscaped pond. i just use a 36" walk behind zero turn that works great on the dams (3) OP: good luck, wise to do homework in this forum. deer & feral hogs (regrettably) are the...

how will you contain the goats?

`Welcome to this forum. any more specs or serial numbers, etc for reference? regards

ok sorry, mine are 3 metal blades, my mistake, regards

why not grind them to sharpen like brush hog blades?

front seal leak? after engine clean, run until you notice leaking, maybe use talcum powder to identify source. best of luck. thinking front seal leak much better than rear?

.095 has been my std for decades

jyoutz: sounds like a useful tool, never tried that type. am sure it has it's place. in terms of tractors & trimmers....just think of the options we now have compared 40-50 yrs ago when i got started with my property. glad it works for you

welcome to try out my workload. whacking heavy stuff does not mean thick line only. has to do with available power & properly wound line. don't have time to stop & reload every time.. how many commercial applications do you see with this type head? when i want heavy duty weed whacking in...

my take on this design is that it's designed for homeowners who only whack occasionally. no way will i shut off trimmer, remove harness & refit trimmer string. plus wonder how much waste of line it would be for unused line. strictly bump for me if properly wound, my workload is too much to...

another gripe in addition to line breakage is in early Spring the woody Fescue stems wrap around between rotating head & frame requiring unraveling & cutting, etc. i have found removing the guard shield helps, but certainly do not recommend given safety hazard of flying objects, just works for...

good point, must be another problem. all of my breaks are inside the head when i have improperly crossed the lines while winding. regards,

next time your string breaks, take a look at the wound spool: you'll see the break occurs when one line is crossed over another, melted & broke. i'll wager 90% of what members are complaining about here is due not to line failure, but improperly wound trimmer line. do not cross one line over...

for me, breaking trimmer lines is all about proper winding. when winding, never cross the lines, keep them parallel. in my experience, properly wound lines won't break

sounds like a good match for your needs. am sure you're aware being that narrow requires vigilance for tip over on slopes. ft wheel weights & loaded rears? maybe an option for safety yes, post working pics, regards

all good points. i don't intend to put any value judgement or condescending opinions, i hope just an observation on us tractor owners from all walks of life. i'll be selling my estate of 49 yrs next spring. glad to be able to walk away & still clutch my ol' 4x4 truck this forum is superb...

most of the members here are of later life stage. by that time, i'd assume tractor owners would find their niche, consumer or commercial agri application then why all this fuss over HST & gear? i'll bet (w/o data) that Europe & Asia in both consumer & commercial markets go gear much more...

i usually apply copious amt of Simple Green, let soak a while then pw. wipe down any excess afterword. but i only do once annually. i never was bothered with excess grease, best regards

Power wash for me is the clear winner. once a year. i wouldn't make a big deal of it.

As youth in VA, remember a guy in back of pickup tossing a shovel of I Like Ike campaign buttons at me roadside. '56 election? vs Adli Stevenson? guess that dates me....OP: looks like your tractor has done better than me through the yrs,

oh my...nice luster & cleanup....ready for a tractor show.....but what we like to see in the forum is mud & dirt on the tractor doing real work. good job on the new addition, tho let's get down to the task & the nitty gritty. good job

gear heads: in today's machines, unlike old days, hyd wet pack technology is far superior to the single dry plate as in the past & in current machines with shuttle shift that require clutching between directional changes. wet pack systems i've read far outlast the ol' tried & true single...

i second this given my similar set up. there is good reason heavier duty Utility machines are geared, rather than HST. but with either system, each has it's place in the tractor power train consumer application.

what techniques do you have for purging air in newly replaced cartridge manual grease gun? that's my only issue & don't mind getting messy when gun works properly. regards` do pneumatic guns work better in that regard? my experience is no

getting greasy is almost inevitable whether using grease gun or changing oil. my biggest complaint is replacing cartridges as air is sometimes difficult to purge. that's when the real greasy mess occurs. this is an overly discussed subject, you might do a forum search to making your lube...

Hay Dude: agree about quality of cut, etc w/8' twin. when i stepped up to one from single 6', marked difference in quality & smooth cut given the twin spindle. in this case i highly question the OP's tractor to handle a 2000# 3ph. if the OP goes w/7' single, would prob work out for him. but...

think OP has 5' & looking for larger options

`this is a compact/sub forum. my take is the forum demographic is elderly. lots of shot knees & other infirmities. hence HST seems to be the preference for hobby farmers utility tractors & the use of ground engagement implements for example is where gear rules king. personally, i would...

$3,500 for a 7 foot cutter that is near Kubota’s specs vs $6,500 for an 8 foot twin. 2manyrocks 3k is a steep additional price for an additional 12" cut

good thought, was just about to suggest the idea. it's the only way to know if it will work.

whatever setup, cond of cutting knives is so important, i overlook myself sometimes.

Well OP: don't jump the gun yet. the last post does bring up a good point. it's all about the overall hanging length/ weight on a compact tractor. if you have one, look at the owner's manual for implement specs/limitations. you might also want to discuss with your dealer's impartial advice...

mx would prob handle the pto hp of a 8' twin, but the sheer size weight & maneuverability of a 3ph lift imho & the compact tractor would struggle. not to mention risky on hills. again, i'd say the tail would wag the dog suggest a drag type twin if you must have an 8 footer. (not sure, you may...

plus the tractor would struggle on the 3ph. my 8' unit is 2000#. the tail would wag the dog. had an MX500 once, 6' was a good match. never been impressed with the 7' single spindle, though others will disagree. 6' heavy duty would be my recommendation. 8' twin 3ph cutters aren't cheap...

Valvoline conventional 75-90 gear oil.

whether you downsize or retain your current blade, having a hyd top link, esp w/ground engagement implements will greatly benefit your blade work. being able to feather adj makes a big difference. you will benefit in all your implements, & safer too i think. consider the link before...

NT: i actually agree with you. having good stock is better than a new Sport! & wise to pass on your former vehicle to the ex. i once owned an International '70 ScouI, superb 304, body/chassis not so much. i tend to keep vehicles that preform well. my '92 toyota 4x4 stands the test of time...

lots of wanna be retro new vehicles on the market now. considering a new one would be totally out of the question for me. realizing this is a forum spanning age group, opinion, & demographic, & i'm just one voice among many but the Sport, i believe, would withstand the rigors of a mall...

determine needs, future tasks, & budget before you look at models & manufacturers.

OP: you'll be overwhelmed by info on this, mostly informative, but don't pay attn to it all (incl my own comment) you might expand on your tasks, but more importantly at what life stage are you, in reasonable good shape?, assuming you'll go w/hst vs gear?, condition of your knees?, and how you...

yeah, the fluid level changes per position of bucket. from what i understand, the correct way to gauge the hyd level is to have the fel cyl retracted to where bucket is level on ground & rear arms level. keep forum informed, good luck

hyd fluid & filters are in good shape?

don't know on that one, safety precautions are there for a reason on consumer compacts & subs. same way on zero turns, etc. pto use on agril utility machinery while operator is off seat is another matter, realizing it's commercial agri use, not home owner grade equip..... regards

generally, sub compacts & subs have an operators presence switch that requires being seated for pto operation on utility & more serious agri tractors, operator presence is generally not required to have pto engaged (maybe some audible alarms tho) & i would not recommend bypassing a safety...

i understand. as with tractors, i like quality. gave up my pro film stuff long ago, this change will be all i need in digital. i've always been a sucker for high end equipment. best regards

that price sounds tough. my place is on rough 5.5m gravel road, found a guy who will haul 18t load of SB2 for 450. i'll give him 500. have maybe 4 loads for the driveway improvement. good luck your way

makes sense. i've never understood the 3 yr trade off after purchasing new. but guess i'm clueless & will stick with what works for me. always trying to keep things simple at this late stage. a young family of course may think differently

makes good sense. since the thread is about the Sport in general, would be interesting to see it's depreciation rate. There are a number of retro new models currently, wanted to see how this one fairs. in terms of keeping a good vehicle, i'm with you. i currently have 3 vehicles, latest...

what's the depreciation rate of this Sport Bronco? say 3 yrs down the road from original sticker price? that's what i'd be looking at.-

no doubt suspension is key on these machines. but often overlooked is rear wheel size. bigger the better, adding to the suspension. notice how the box stores sell barbie wheels. tire size makes a lot of difference on the ride quality & overall traction as well

myth or fact? (i don't know): if stored correctly, the petroleum product does not degrade, but the additive package itself is what might age or break down in time. have no evidence on that, just what i've read. OP: i surely wouldn't lose sleep over the subject

what was dealer's take on it, & the current status of diagnosis?

OP: let us know the outcome of your tractor woes. Still under warranty? good luck

enjoy the great equipment, post 1st few projects

OP: looks like a good score. can you reveal the purchase price delivered?

welcome to this forum. please describe the problem in detail, is this sudden or always occur? is the smoke blue, black, or white? how much oil consumed? have you done the initial break in service? what oil are you using? any leaks? more details needed, best regards & welcome

good point. never had to have my Encore 36" walk behind replaired. if necessary, have 2 places in my vicinity that repair. the ZTR walk behind is oft overlooked when it comes to mowers, & makes a great companion to the rider ZTR. what i like about it is that if you're in trouble, just...

good points. still feel it's a matter of deck height & top link adj regardless of design. just suggesting hyd top link to fine tune around each bend to avoid the problem, best regards

the OP question is regarding to the side skids digging into the surface, not quality of cut of a mower. it's a matter of adjustment of the deck height & top link to help correct the gouging problem. not if it's a finish or "slasher" mower

i find having a hyd top link helps fine tune bush hog height to avoid skid marks. & yes of course tail wheel adj matters too

this zero turn works great on pond dams, my ztr rider would be useless. https://encoreequipment.com/mowers/hydro-drive/

the 2nd most important item i look for in addition to hour meter is.... maintenance/ service log & how many previous owners.. & yes, if the hour meter is mechanical tied to engine rpm, there could be many more operational hrs on an engine (esp rentals) with long idling, etc. regardless, were...

fortunately E free premium is available here. given the amount of E free fuel i use (2 stroke & mowers) for farm & the place here in town, can't begin to imagine using the store canned fuel. way, way too expensive

`i had the earlier TO35 (Standard) but can't answer your question i'd suggest to post your question in the Vintage Massey forum as well regards,

personally would change the gear oil on a used machine, no telling how old & if there's moisture accumulation. suck out as much as you can. would use conventional GL5 gear oil (not fully synthetic) as it might compromise old seals, etc. Valvoline makes a conventional 75/90. but not sure of...

glad to hear....never owned a Kohler, the one i mentioned was on a lower end Bad Boy. goes to show quality difference between upper & lower ends of a given manu can differ. regards.

no mention of Kohler here, never owned that engine, but was highly unimpressed with my neighbor's one on a Bad Boy. poor air filter design. i have both intek & kawi twin, both have been excelent

extensive info above, good points. another component oft overlooked is rear wheel/tire size. many lower end models have barbie sized rear wheels. just as in tractors, get the largest wheel size avail for a better ride & traction.

sounds like you done right. as a footnote that seems obvious but will say anyway: within a manufacturer, there are both consumer (box store quality) all the way up to heavy duty commercial grade models., mention this as a friend has a lower end Hustler (raptor i believe) that has been one...

not bad, you'll have to scroll through the intro though

don't have back hoe experience, etc, but given the investment of a back hoe alone, i would recommend purchasing as large a tractor as possible. at 1st glance, the MX series seems small (had MX5000 once). highly recommend jumping up to a utility M series unless you have to have hydrostat. but...

on the subject of walk behinds, this is my choice for steep slopes & pond dams. a hyd zero turn walk behind (vs belt propelled) is the max way to go. but to the OP's thread, this does not qualify since it's only 12yrs old. foam fill on rear tires helps, but i should have gone bar rather than...

could be, i'd bet for every success story like yours there are 5 less favorable ones, esp sitting over the winter season. (not to speak of possible carb problems along the way)... if your fuel gives no problem, then by all means continue, regards

goes w/o saying, but will say anyway: mower longevity also includes exclusive use of non ethanol fuel. plus avoid carburetors from China, but tariffs may take care of that anyway

seems to me if one has a solid machine, replacing just for the sake of yearly intervals is overkill, esp with poor box store quality, & very pricey commercial grade machines. i feel the same way about vehicles.

replacing belts & idler pulleys is std even with a mower a few years old. yes, don't go to box or auto parts stores, i've had poor results with Gates. i recommend Kevlar reinforced belts. as long as you know the size/length of belt(s) you'll be fine. belt driven machines generate lots of...

your cargo looks like a 4wd power wheel barrow. i have one as well, highly useful tool i use all the time landscaping my 3 pond dams. good choice, not many know about this useful machine.

my dealer comments that a utility M series tractor below 1k hrs is still low. hope that's the case as i will sell mine within a year with currently 850 hrs a single owner tractor with a detailed maintenance log is a plus. i always recommend having an impartial tractor mechanic look at any...

probably so, thankfully i'm way past purchases & will sell current one when i sell out. overall, interesting to know how K sales in US are agri vs construction/ equip. i notice through yrs how K has edged into larger agri from it's sub compact sale base. so who's the biggest dealership...

Agri + construction equip etc. My Springdale Tractor, AR dealership brags it's the highest. (esp given with construction growth) is this accurate or too simple a question?

looking at dfn, you are correct, more of a scientific rather than personal subjective method. guess i was subjective myself in my assumption, good day

jyoutz yes indeed. & cond of cutter knives is often overlooked, so much difference

so given "wider is better" what are the pto/tractor hp requirements of an 8'twin drag type cutter? & of course, many overlook, as you mention, height of grass & condition of cutter knives. @ this point, think the thread has become speculation & rhetorical, & yes, we need more info.

could be, i always thought empirical was one's personal experience, data collection & scientific sampling is otherwise. regards

you are correct going back to the original thread. i was responding to the twin spindle reply earlier on. best regards

actually that could well be. at the time i considered a 7', then upgraded to M series & went w/8'twin 3ph, glad i did rather than 7'. as noted above, the twin provides smooth even cut. it's possible the OP could get a drag type twin for the MX, but for me 3ph is essential.

`my 8'twin (rhino) is right at 2k #. far too much machine for the MX. i'd stick w/6' for that model. once had a MX5000 w/6' BH, a good match. loading rear tires would help & be a safer ride. think 7' single spindle would be too much as well, esp HD one. the tail would wag the dog

to the OP's original thread. how do employers cope with potential safety/liability issues with employees on drugs (given all other headaches of regulations) seems to me, so many employees are also on legal prescriptions that are as equally hazardous to the work arena. it's all about State &...

it is indeed a challenge doing the homework on a purchase. there's the empirical data from owners, then the industry rating of customer satisfaction. the OP is wise to get both responses on this forum my personal experience is that when a person catches the purchase fever, they are at the...

excel points

but isn't quality control of % good vs defective the top priority of what makes a top manufacturer like Kubota or other stand above the rest? if it's the luck of the draw, then why not get the cheapest unit avail & take your chances? regards

you are correct in cab size working in woods, i overlooked that. sounds like you're on the right tract, & take your time now that you have the purchase fever. wise to post here

agree, or if one can find, used pre tier 4 of the same class. will be selling mine within a year, but no online sales. OP: best in your quest

good luck with your search. i've always been reluctant to choose a tractor according to storage access. my feeling rather than limit yourself to storage access, choose the optimum model for your needs, than accommodate for storage options, lots of options out there. best regards,

as a footnote for starting the thread, my question only applies to my gassers & NOT the M8540. always replace both 100-125 hrs. but interested in the replies,. good day

just like snake oil additives, if TP is a proven filter medium, why haven't manu gone that route on new vehicles? can't imagine doing that myself.

whoa, mine only has 1/2 half that mileage & in same cond as yours.. curious as to vehicle, yr, & oil type used, single or multi owner. impressive

so i'm hearing filter changes are more important than engine oil changes with an engine in reasonably good condition? my vehicles are all pre engine oil analysis sensors, so i go on my own empirical experience. all i'm trying to figure out is do i need to change the oil filter every time...

good way of looking at that. short runs, in vehicles or tractor w/o letting engine temp help burn off condensation is a reason for more frequent oil/filter changes. going back to my original question, basically, what's the life of an OEM oil filter in comparison to the life of syn oil...

i do agree, storage is important

good point, don't understand why a shelf life (in proper storage conditions) is sometimes given for a dinosaur based product. additives break down? don't buy it.

let the conditions that the engine lives in be the guide for mileage, or hours. redmt unless you do oil analysis or have an oil monitor sensor equipped in the vehicle, deciding when to change is subjective according to the conditions the engine lives in. overall, i agree with you & practice...

i notice on Napa Gold filters that there's an "extended life" more expensive filter for extended changes w/syn to help avoid what you describe above. but at 5k change intervals, i'll just stick w/OEM my '92 4x4 Toyota 4 cyl has 333k miles on original engine, just seals replaced.

actually no need to do either, we're from Arkansas & go barefoot most of time... humor aside, good point, i'll prob just continue what i'll always done & change both. apologize for the rhetorical thread, but curious what members would say about it, regards

OP: wise to post your question here. as some mentioned, you may be overthinking this. as a member said, the tractor may have been better off in the crate for a year than sitting on the open lot. once you own it, all this will be forgotten, but given your attn to detail, i can tell this will...

syn or dyno on your oil?

duffer: followed your change interval schedule with dyno oil for many years. when changing to full syn (castrol) i bumped it to 5k intervals w/oem filter. just curious to see if i really need to change oil filter every time as well always using the same oil type, etc. regards

well i agree with the above, maybe why the engines are doing well. i just got to thinking though since some recomm 10k oil changes w/full syn (which i'll never do), that maybe it would apply to filters, esp if the change is 5k intervals. just wanted to hear opinions, regards

ok, have 3 vehicles all with different applications. they're high mileage (combined 700k miles on the 3) 5k change intervals w/full syn oil, oem filters. always change filter when i do changes. given that all the engines are in good shape, do i need to change the oem filter every time, or...

believe the tail would wag the dog on this application. but never hurts to try. attempting challenging tasks with under powered sub compacts is a common theme on this forum, good luck

overall, the pre Tier4 M series utility tractors are fine machines. sounds as if the M6800 will handle the hay harvest just fine.

the good news is that it seems you caught it in time w/o damaging the engine. keep the forum informed as you proceed. is removing the ft end required to look at the oil pump drive gears, etc? best on that

good for you. i never understood the obsession compact forum members have about their cup holders & all the related threads therein. seems we can't operate our tractors w/o the on demand beverage at hand.... also ever notice how the average beverage size has increased multi fold over the...

can't really say which viscosity, but i would be hesitant of using 15/40 in an engine that calls for 5/20 esp on those cold starts given your location

in the case of a hydro shuttle vs shuttle shift on a geared tractor, the former is clearly superior. re: gear vs hst wars, it's meaningless to attribute a better or worse scenario, this is a compact/sub forum, of course hst prevails among members there is a very good reason why larger...

i've always gone gear, in my current tractor, hyd shuttle. my knees etc are still good, no replacements or pain issues. so having hyd shuttle is icing on the cake. your overall message is a bit confusing, but now see we agree. always nice to have options, never had or ever will have hst, but...

in what way is hyd shuttle "not so much" easier?

yes the shuttle is a big advantage with geared tractors. in addition, there's a big difference between shuttle shift, & hyd shuttle. the former requires clutch for directional change, hyd does not. there's no question the hyd shuttle is superior & also involves a wet clutch pack vs the...

`are the rear tires loaded?

seems to me, moisture in the engine oil & moisture in hyd are 2 slightly different issues. thinking engine oil moisture is due to cold runs when engine temp doesn't build up enough. hyd moisture builds up around housing during temp/humidity changes. in terms of engine, run your diesel long...

congrat, enjoy, & report later if you're satisfied with the model & size you've decided on for your tasks. send images doing your work

i agree with those that say avoid repeated short cold runs & work it for extended hrs. i am not a fan of short runs putzing around the compound. that's when condensation builds up. diesels like to be run steady after warm up. given your location, i would run 5/40 full syn diesel rated engine...

agree w/above, go 6000 w/local dealer, you'll soon forget the price difference & be glad you went larger w/dealer close at hand as a caveat, picked up new MX5000 geared 4x, fel for 18k in '07. times have changed, best on your purchase

OP: have you gone to the manu website to inquire if you don't have that owners manual? is the machine still in production? how many hrs on machine? do you know history of engine oil (or other fluids) maintenance? that may help make an informed decision

Welcome to this forum. by "driveline oils" assume you mean engine oil, or gear/hyd oils as well? can't help on ladder, but yes, 15/40 should be fine. i prefer 5/40 full syn in colder climate starts. Rotella comes to mind. might be helpful to mention your location on the subject, regards

this is how i will sell my tractor in a year or 2, don't bring the trailer till funds are confirmed transferred to my bank.

welcome to forum. where is your place if i might ask?

agree w/above, draw bar, not 3ph

OP: decide on the largest & most demanding task you have. choose a suitable tractor model, then go one model up in size.

yes, to me, a leaf blower is the tool to use for radiator debris. always had radiator debris problem prob esp in blooming sedge with my previous smaller tractors. fortunately, my M Utility model poses no risk at all in those conditions, due to increased height & efficient radiator screen...

also use a good water/particulate trapping funnel like Mr Funnel to collect any condensation

maybe the size choice is more about unseen future tasks than those you describe. since it's a new purchase, do take your time once you get the fever.& wise to post here. as i always say, a quik spin around the dealer's lot is a poor way of simulating field tasks. also, compact tractors have...

might include the bed length as well, i haven't read all the posts. bed length would be one of my top priorities, regards

agree with what you say. think our M series models were the top tiers of pre Tier4, astounding drive trains w/o current emission issues/headache of Tier4.

in regards of going from long term conventional gear oil, then to fully synthetic gear oil, i have had to replace almost all the seals on transmission, transfer case, & rear differential on my high mile 4x truck. i've gone back to conventional gear oil for the vehicle, but always use full...

generally a good practice, but on your older M9000 diesels, oil prob gets dark sooner than need for 100-200 hr oil change? an analysis would answer the oil color issue. having said that, i'm surprised that my Tier2 engine oil stays clear for quite a while compared to older diesels i've had...

an old friend of mine owned a full service gas station in the 60's. they always had an empty oil oil can with plunge spout on the shelf. when servicing, he recommended adding a quart to customers....he claimed he made more off that empty container than either gas or service those were the days...

OP: glad the gears box is functional. may be worth checking to see the vent on the gearbox fill plug is working ok. glad it worked out for you

yes to above, & as i always say, a spin around the dealers lot is a poor way of simulating field tasks.

just keep in mind there's a big difference between hyd shuttle & shuttle shift systems. hyd shuttle usually involves a wet clutch pack, the shuttle shift usually has a single dry clutch plate. apparently the wet clutch pack lasts longer & requires no clutch action to engage shuttle for...

seems to me the clutch action required to engage shuttle shift puts no additional stress on the clutch than shifting gears.

i'd say take your time for now & let the decision rest for awhile. & consider the uncertain economic times, life at home, & really how soon you want to make the change. by that time you'll know that going to a more robust tractor will solve your needs & that the storage concerns in good time...

great smaller estate tractor, good choice. a step up from B or BX. does it have maintenance log? what fluid/maintenance changes will you do? how many hrs? single owner from new? enjoy

hst makes perfect sense esp for a sub/compact forum where prob 90% of members have compacts. having said that, there is a reason larger utility tractors in M series, etc are geared. on my series, creep gear option is available for creeper ground speeds. in terms of hyd vs shuttle shuft, hyd...

OP: sounds as if you have about made your decision. maybe 6mo+ after purchase, give the forum a report if you feel you made the right decision on the size tractor you've chosen & if it meets the expectations you describe above. & if the weight/hp is safe & adequate for your tasks. all the best,

but not so w/geared hyd shuttle, no clutch or gear shift required w/ change of direction, loading, etc. :-) best of both

Eventually we'll expand into some additional land that is currently in row crop production - likely some tillage and additional maintenance there. wild_oats welcome to the forum. i can't offer specific advice on sub/compacts, but your above statement i think may indicate unseen & growing...

agree, don't chose your tractor merely given it's storage challenges. get something big enough to grow into. sounds like you're on the right track, though i don't envy anyone purchasing new at this time. you can always consider used MX series or even small M series Utility. just get a...

"garage queen" scootr like that, similar to the mall cruisers pick up truck crowd yes, the MX series is a step up from L series. reliable & up to the task for estate tractors. if the OP chooses an open station, they should be fine in the woods. always keeping in mind tractor weight is an...

Mtsoxfan: sounds as if you had good work ethic & ambition in youth. not sure of your age, but i'm in mid 70's. i will say i was able to do well & am reasonably ok in later life stage during my working carer but given current housing, inflation, uncertain job & economy, even with the work...

for the sake of civil discussion on a tractor related forum, have to agree

the M9000 seems to me to be one of the finest early M series utility models, aside (of course) from my model purchased new in '08. pre tier4 in itself is big, regards the transmission lock ebrake on my model compared to the conventional ratchet version is one of the reasons i upgraded to...

`in general, twin spindle units are smoother than single, esp when a 7' single spindle hits something. twins are also shorter in length than single units.

i considered a 7' cutter, but sure glad i went with an 8' twin outboard 3ph. no question it runs smoother compared to the large 7' single blades i'd certainly go 8' lift type, but sounds like transport has limits. in a way a 7' cutter is sort of a bastard size. good luck

OP: i recommend you post this thread in the LS forum if you're considering that make.

sounds like you're doing the homework. wise to post here, & take your time to make the best informed purchase decision. so easy to get caught up into the buying frenzy & making a hasty decision you may regret. ball's in your court, patience brings rewards, good luck

the PTO hp rating should be higher than 40hp if engine is rated 65hp? btw welcome to this forum, regards

what is PTO hp & gpm hyd flow?

The replacement cost is 600+. compare that to the time, effort, expense of that repair method, & with no guarantee it will not fail in the future. but it's an idea

i wonder if radiator repair shops (if they're any left) specialize in plastic repairs you detail? my guess is not so much. they don't want the liability. how will you determine what type of plastic it is? inquire from K? it's a long day since i had my old Massey hd radiator rodded out...

i really don't know much about repairing plastics, sounds like you're doing your homework on the subject, best regards

what's the radiator replacement cost? what's the cost if repair goes south in the July sun, or single digit temps? aftermarket options? old school solder on brass is one thing, but i'd be hesitant on plastics esp given the heat & pressure, imho

looks to be a good buy. if i were considering, would hire an impartial tractor mechanic to overlook 1st. nothing to lose, & confidence to gain

cold starts are never a problem with the 20 yr old Briggs, but will keep ATF in mind

didn't realize generic ATF is suitable for splitters. interesting note since my tank sump is large on the 36t, going ATF would require a complete change, so i'll stay with existing ISO. good point though not sure how ATF would play out on a new machine warranty?

as mentioned, won't make a big difference either way on a Kawi v twin. as long as you measure on level ground.. i go unscrewed & don't allow level to go above (or of course below) that. i've read where small diesel engines are not as forgiving on oil overfilling b/c of injector pump, but...

are you looking only for lube treatment, or other storage concerns related to diesel? usually various treatments address 1) lubbricity as you mention 2) moisture accumulation 3) algae/fungus problems 4) gelling in cold climates. you'll get a lot of responses re: Power Service, Optilube, 911...

maybe someone can explain what ISO hyd fluid rating is in relation to SAE ratings. micron ratings on filters is also important to consider for any hyd system. thx

do most splitters use the same rated hyd fluid? my 36t Huskee states ISO 46 (sae 20). i go with the recommended filter #, but don't know the micron count.

my previous farm residents left broken glass...we on the other hand? leave mostly plastic maybe plastic is easier on tires, but who's to say about environment impact as we pass it onto our kids. i had a few ponds built over the years adjacent to the homestead site on my mt farm. lots of art...

i like to keep the log sections on the ground after unloading with FEL then just roll to the vertical log splitter beam, easy. this current method ruined me long ago compared to my younger manual labor days, but i'll never go back, & i still stay warm

In terms of hyd replacement oil, my Huskee 36 Ton states ISO 46 hyd fluid (SAE 20w they say). what is your hyd log splitter hyd oil type? basically, i just change the proper filter & top off level as needed.

imho towing a log splitter w/o a spare is asking for trouble for any distance except around the farm. hauling is a much better option. i had my tires foam filled (non hwy compliant) & keep it in one place. w/o a spare, if you had a blowout, you'd have to abandon the splitter on the...

do you have a spare tire for splitter? what happens if a tire fails?. highly recommend hauling it, regards

i've always been impressed on this sub/compact site just how many owners try to inch up HP & FEL capacity. these are decisions that should have been made @ time of original tractor purchase. & yes, i have upgraded my tractors a few times myself as a result of inadequate original purchases...

deet mostly does the trick on those & seed ticks.

glad to pay my neighbor 100 bounty to shoot my rogue beaver. tried numerous times to steel trap @ base of aspens & J maple. caught a paw that's all, beavers are hard to trap. think the effective traps are the accordion type that clasp the entire body. rogue SOB destroyed 2k+ in landscape...

= good point. they're very destructive to ground nesting birds such as quail, turkey, & whip 'or wills as eggs are top of their menu. & of course to the turf. along with a host of diseases communicable to humans. some say hunters brought them in & released for game years ago, now out of...

well wildlife & domestic stock carry the critters, i've certainly paid my dues thankfully w/o any of the recent related diseases they carry so far. guess topical repellent is the way to reduce contact. tho i do notice a population reduction of the critters around here. but like the cockroach...