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Fluid level is good, though I'd like to get some dye to make it easier to see. It's clear as water. FWIW after mowing this evening I left it with a 1200# cutter on at mowing height and closed the decent rate valve, and it has sunk maybe 1/4" over the last 4 hours.

Update. So now I'm a whole 20 hours in on this tractor and I have a little more feedback on this 3 point hydraulics issue. Yesterday I mowed a few acres and all seemed to go fine (though having the new cutter buzz clouded the issue) except for the bouncing. It's definitely still there, more...

Deleted -double post🙄

Thanks azbinder- So that’s what I did last night, although substituting wine for coffee. I put just the boom to a post hose digger on for a little weight. It sank without the control valve closed and did not when it was closed- not one bit even overnight. So I guess that’s better news that...

Yes it did leak down overnight without a load when the rate control was set for a slow drop with a load. But with rate set to closed and no load it didn't drop overnight.

So last night I turned the lowering speed control knob to closed, and it didn't leak down. This without an implement on it also. Would that knob being closed prevent a leak down even if the piston seal was leaking? I guess better would be to do this test with a load, but as a matter of habit...

Yes. And in all honesty, I don't use or know how to use draft control, but that lever in in the full down position for what it's worth.

Tractor has 12 hours on it, so yes definitely still under warranty. The arms will leak down overnight even without a load on them also, which doesn't concern me as much. Being low on hydraulic fluid or having air in the system crossed my mind as well. Probably ought to at least check the...

When it stops bouncing, the rear wheel is still off the ground by about a foot. It does have a rate drop valve, which I'd set to a "slow drop" as opposed to a plop. Next I'll set to a stop up there!

oldnslo- yes I did try it on about half way down and it still did it, though the interval may have shortened to 10-11 seconds. And oddly at a lower setting/cutting height I couldn't detect it jumping/dropping/jerking. So it seems the higher it is, the worse it is? Do you think a (dealer...

When I have my rotary cutter all the way up, it will slowly, almost imperceptibly, lower about an inch or less, then suddenly "catch itself" and go back up abruptly, bouncing the whole tractor just a bit alarmingly. It'll happen about every 7-8 seconds. Doesn't seem to make a huge difference...

Worked like a charm! TractorTYMe to the rescue again(y)

Well my 574 has a speedo, and I do not... memories of high school gym class jocks being handed out flashing back now:rolleyes: WTF in the rear view mirror. But yea. I'd think if they can go from C to F they figured we'd want to go from KMH tot MPH in the programming. Again, the secret south...

Sooo, tractorTYMe, do you know the secret handshake to get it to go from km/hr to MPH? Tried variations on the C/F* technique and still stuck on kilometers per hour.:rolleyes:

Now there is an interesting perspective.:unsure: Why indeed eliminate the arms ball effect with alignment bolts on Pat's? Maybe because the shims taking up/down slop would fall out then?

Tomorrow I'll try for similar regarding going from km/hr to MPH. Wish me luck!

My TYM owners manual says not to "use excessive speed or load" for the first 50 hours. Currently it has 7 hours of not doing much except lots of laps around the dealership and my yard. First question is, what is excessive? Second would be, what is realistic break in work other than just driving...

Owners manual says not to "use excessive speed or load" for the first 50 hours. First question is, what is excessive? Second would be, what is realistic break in work other than just driving around not actually working? 50 hours just seems out of line with most motorized vehicles these days...

Not so much a tool box, but for lynch pins, bushings etc.

I see mention of the Pat’s having some binding issues. How common is this? Is this a result of improper shimming or inherent in the design? Otherwise it’s sounding like a great solution to ease hitching up.

Good points regarding PTO hook up. I’ll admit that I let mine get dry and/or gritty at times and extra wrestling effort is required to slide on or off, so a QH would be another layer to deal with.

Truly they are stupid easy. Guess I’m getting lazy and/or old. LOL In reality, I don’t switch things up that much- 90% of the time it’ll be a rotary cutter, occasionally an old box blade and rarely a post hole digging- either of which would necessitate the quicks removal. Would mind picking...

Wow. I’m surprised that didn’t get locked down with a patent. Yes I watched that YouTube vid- nice introduction for a newb. 👍🏻

Lots of good information that I need to digest! Pat’s and Euros i need to look into. I’m always leery of anything euro, except KTM and Husqvarna 😂

Need pics of your blades!:oops:

Thanks JohnnyMX- yea that was the hassle I was dealing with with my last tractor- cat 2 lift and every attachment was cat 1. Bucket o’bushings always handy. PITA. That Speeco does look to be the ticket.

I am, and have had no experience with them. But my new tractor has it on the FEL, so I’m considering getting one for the 3 point out back. I only own or borrow cat 1 stuff, so is there a reason I shouldn’t get a cat 1 rated quickie? Seems most are cat 2, and this require bushing...

Thanks mo1. Yesterday I decided on and ordered the BH 2107. I started thinking that I was pushing my luck power wise on trying to cut 8' after all so I nixed Titan and never considered the medium duty 8's with my hp. Hopefully the single wheel of the BH won't result in scalping much. My...

Thanks tractorTYMe. That whole 9/5 + 32 was killing me!😂

Is this possible? While I appreciate the logic with Celsius (0-100 is superior IMO), I'm 'Merican and I grew up with fern height and can process it more readily. Is there a way to change the cluster read out to Fahrenheit? And no I'm not German either, just an old Texican, on a new 574.

And the Titan came in at $6k. With a 4 month wait! At least we’re heading into fall- if get it in the middle of winter LOL

Dbl sorry

Ha! Thanks for the insight! Got that for BH or Titan?🤔 Guessing that was you invoice last year. Ironically, my local LP dealer says they’re not even in production with that model right now. But a dealer in Texas has two. And I’m in Florida😂

I'm still waiting for a quote on a Titan, but despite being 1' larger I'm thinking it may come in under the BH @7K, maybe even the LP @6K. Yes, cutter prices are nuts! Might be leaning Titan also because it should be able to pull both mowing and brush cutting duty. I did get a 72" Titan grapple...

Thanks for that and I hear ya Jay. And I can totally see the utility in the offset, as in circling clockwise around trees nice and tight without getting your tractor wheels all up in there. Once you've figured out your radiuses/limitations of course LOL

I’ve been surfing what’s out there for a dual spindle cutter in the 7-8’ range. This will be behind a TYM 574/FEL with 44.7 claimed PTO hp and around 3000# lift 24” behind link ends. My primary reason for looking at dual spindles is to keep the length behind me minimized to 7-8’, as opposed to...

Praying for the OP for that not to be the case….been there🤦🏻‍♂️

Thanks guys. The salesman told me to give it just a bit of pedal pressure while trying to select a range. That usually worked on my test drive but not consistently. He also suggested turning the steering wheel also may help unbind things just enough.

New to this forum and nice to see some affirmation of my decision to buy a 574 hst yesterday :cool: I have no hours on mine at home yet, but the drive around the dealer parking lot was fun LOL One quibble I had, that wasn't a deal breaker by any means, is that it seems the range selector is...