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Thanks all

Engine block the same with which 3 cylinder model? I thought about a small turbo on my 2TR13A, but kinda decided against it

What do you mean?

I am kind of curious if anyone would know which 3 cylinder yanmar engine(s) could be swapped in place of the 2TR13A. I think it would be fun to find one of these old diesel engines and slowly rebuild myself and maybe add a small turbo on and have on hand and maybe swap in place of current...

I am just talking about a quick attach for a bucket, not for the whole FEL

Thanks

Anyone know of a quick attach for the FEL on a yanmar 165D? Want to be able to take my bucket off or switch out with ease. Thanks

Ok

I ended up putting an extention on and a flapper. I still want to either straight pipe it or something like a glass pack

Oh no, they better not be using Red dye #40......my 7.3 powerstroke and yanmar could have cancer

Fleet farm in Cedar Rapids has a pump for kerosene. I normally will just add power service to my diesel for cold Iowa weather. However, cenex stations here put out a winter blend of diesel.

Here in Iowa, I will not run diesel from caseys stores. My truck runs horrible on it. Switched to Cenex or kwik star diesel and problem solved. In a pinch, I will do BP. So, I will only run Cenex or kwik star diesel in my yanmar also and will throw in some ATF as well

I have a loader up front

Nevermind, looking at it in person it is an RM306 not RM360 as advertised, so it is a 72" and it is way too big

I think the online listing was wrong as it said it was 72". Looking online, I only see that that model is 60".

I am looking at getting a finish mower for my yanmar 165D. I had one picked out, then I learned it was almost $800 to ship it, so that's a no go. Then, I found a used Woods RM360 about 10 miles from me. I was going to do a 60" mower max, but what are your thoughts about this RM360 at 72".....too...

I keep it parked in my garage plus it currently has the factory short and angled extension

I currently have my exhaust verticle after it being horizontal for a while. I will keep it verticle, but I will take off the short extention and put a taller stack on along with a exhaust cap

I did have the exhaust pointed down initially and I still got blowback. Maybe i will just install a taller pipe on top of the muffler to get it up and away. Thanks all

Has anyone on here put a straight pipe/stack on their tractor with a 2TR series of engine? I looked for videos on YouTube, but couldnt find anything. Just curious if it will actually sound decent or if it will be annoying/obnoxious. Plus, I want the exhaust exit up and away from my face. Thanks

If you can't find the "correct" motor, how much similarity is there in engine block dimensions between the 2TR13 class and 2TR16, 17, 18, 19?

Havent picked out a particular flotation tire yes, but I bookmarked several. Now just have to do a little homework on them....but rear tires aren't a huge priority right now.....I need to get a blade and a finish mower first

Not really concerned too much about yard. The deer, moles and other critters tear it up pretty well already.....plus, it's all clay.

Now, I just need to get some flotation tires and weight on the rear

After getting stuck multiple times with the turf tires on the front, I had to get some new shoes up front, so the 4x4 would actually be effective. Boy did it ever help!

29X12.50-15

I have mine mounted vertically. It was horizontal, but changed it after i put head back on

Have any of you put a straight pipe on in place of your muffler on your yanmar 135/155/165 or similar class tractor? If so, did it make the sound too annoying or did it sound alright? Thanks

Pm sent

Allstatesag has the parts you will need, at least most of them. Not sure if there are alternate filters out there for our machines.

I have 20.5x8x10 front

Can someone recommend to me a good front tire for my 165D that has some good traction? The turf tires up front were of little help the other day when I got it stuck and had to shovel myself out.

Simple fix. Got the part from Walmart suprisingly.....light works too

Ok, thanks. It ran fine yesterday after I noticed it dangling after the limb got it

Am I ok to operate the tractor until I get my new one installed?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/seort/911401701 https://palmerpower.com/yanmar-124060-39452-switch-hydraulic/ The palmer power has a different number but the one from Walmart lists the number in my manual as well as the one from palmer.....could either work?

Had a little woopsie today. A heavy branch came up and busted what I think is the oil pressure sender. From the photos below, am I correct that that is the part? I think it is part number 124060-39451. Thanks

So how do I get that cover cap off? I tried rotating it to no avail or is there some other way it comes off?

It really isn't a fix, as there is still an issue. But, when I lower the bucket and it sticks and I let it go all the way down until it stops or lifts the front end, I have to tap on the lever with a hammer to get it unstuck. However, if I lower bucket and if I pull back on lever rapidly, it...

I got it figured out.

Ok, wasn't able to get to it today. Hopefully tomorrow

So, would that be the long orange cylinder on the backside of the boom valve?

Ok, thanks! If I have time before work tomorrow, I will give it a try

Can't open attachment. So, I have had the lever stick and then the bucket will lower normally, but will keep going downward until the front end lifts up. So I have to shut tractor down to get it unstuck. When I get it unstuck, it goes back to moving slowly downward

Retrieved from trash

I had posted the pics in the other thread of mine. I delete pics from my phone. I will see if I can get them on this thread

Ok, thanks! So, that bolt that is between A1 and B1 on the boom lever, what will that do if I take it out? Will that access anything that could be sticking?

There is no load on the 3 point.

Ok, as said in a previous thread, what can I do about the hydraulic issues? The issues is ONLY with lowering the bucket. Raising the bucket and tilting bucket is no factor. Can I remove the bolt that is on the boom side valve and peer in or is it under pressure?

I guess this thread can be stopped then

Hmmm, I'm kinda interested. Gotta get the hydro fixed first

These were put on some yanmars?

Thanks. So, I just got it to lower fine, then it acted up again. It's almost like the open center is sticking.....when I do run it down after it sticks and it goes ultra slow, I will get hydraulic fluid come out of the blow off port after apx. 20 seconds of trying to boom down. Also, if I...

What can I do about the control valve?

I really don't know anything about hydraulics, can someone help me find a replacement (and one that won't cost me an appendage) hydraulic control for this yanmar? Thanks

Going from memory, no quick disconnect

When I unloaded the tractor, the loader worked perfectly. I drove the tractor around for about 15 minutes and then the valve handle stuck and started acting up. Got the valve handle unstuck, but now it just moves down slow, as in like an inch in 5 seconds

What can I do about the loader going down at a snail's pace

Couple thing....I will have to replace the brake shoes. Also, not sure if 4x4 is engaging. Also, loader boom raises perfectly and bucket runs perfect, but lowering boom is slow.....I mean slow, like as in lowering under its own weight. The lever also is sticking, not sure if that has anything to...

Unloading it this morning I noticed it is terribly hard to steer with that loader....set the bucket down, and it steers nice and easy. What can be done for that? As far as the clutch, I returned the one Allstatesag sent and got the correct one from tractorpartstogo. That one was a perfect fit...

Ha, well I can sure keep it going. I gotta get some pics on here of it doing work.

Picking up tractor today before starting my shift.....luckily I will get a taste of running it briefly while loading it on the trailer!!

Mechanic got the 165D running yesterday!!! Only has to put loader back on and she's all done, can't wait!

Nice!

Well, my mechanic got the ring gear on and all is well with that. Then, I am told that the clutch kit is not correct......the clutch disk is too big and the pressure plate hole is too small of a diameter.......I know that I ordered the correct one from allstatesag, and went and cross referenced...

Dropped ring gear off today.....getting closer. I'm guessing that ring gear came from Japan....it had oriental writing all over it

You ordered from palmer or someone else?

Kinda upset with Palmer power. Ordered that ring gear 8 days ago, as it was in stock. Still says "awaiting shipment." I have emailed palmer, and they don't know what is going on, but they must have ordered it from a vendor. Meanwhile, my tractor sits in the shop. Kinda messed up that is how they...

The 2TR15 is wet sleeve....from a ym1500. The 169 engine is 3 cylinder

I know the part numbers, I'm just curious if a 15 sleeve will fit in a 13? If they are dimensionally the same other than 75 vs 80 mm bore? I wonder how a square block (2.9" bore with 2.9" stroke) 2TR13A would work with the bigger piston making it oversquare. However, I would prefer an...

Does anyone know the differences in liner specs of 2TR13A vs 2TR15A other than 75mm vs 80mm bore? Are they both dimensionally the same otherwise?

AMEN!

Thanks....lifesaver!!

Anyone know where a flywheel ring gear for this 165D would be

Anyone know where a flywheel ring gear for this 165D would be?

Both tires in the links I sent are same specs except .5" difference in diameter of my turf front. Since I won't have it in 4x4 all the time and only when needed, I figured it wouldn't hurt.

He will start it as soon as all my parts from Hoye come in and he puts it back together

It was not good in there. Even a mouse nest in there. How it could have done that, I don't know. But, at least engine is unstuck now too.

I would love to do Ag rear but since I will also use it to mow my lawn with a finish mower, that will be a no go

Kinda upset that there aren't any American made tires that will work....all I can find is these Chi-com made tires

Not sure which one of these I will go with yet https://www.prioritytire.com/by-brand/carlisle-tires/trac-chief?var-carlisle=48082 https://lawnmowertirestore.com/20x8-00-10-4ply-tractor-tire.html

I already have tires in both types matched to current size.

Getting close! Now, just don't know what front tires to go with. Should I do R4 or some AG type? I'm going to keep the turf on rears, but the tires up front will have very little bite in 4x4.

Little update on tractor......took it to a shop in city where I work. Heard good stuff about the guy and never having met him before, I got ahold of him and explained. I took it to him and he said he would be able to get to it in about a week. The next day, he gets ahold of me and told me what's...

Anyone know of a good source for a nice knob for hydraulic lever....mainly for raising the bucket up and down. I think bucket dump will be left as is. Thanks

Sending tractor to shop tomorrow......hopefully cures it so I can put it to work soon

Ok, I will give that a try sometime today......then, I'm going to study over the mid section of this tractor and ponder long and hard on whether I want to give a split a try

I thought about pulling the hydraulic pump, but didn't know if messing with something under pressure would be smart of me

It wasn't a fair try the first time I tried it on gravel, so I wanted to do it on concrete first. I wasn't able to really do this back on page 8

Ok, this is what I got. I decided to get the tractor off the trailer and try dragging it a bit. Hooked the side by side up to it on concrete. With it completely in neutral and easing it forward, it rolled with a couple catchy spots then I we stopped. Now, I put it into 6th gear and depressed...

I may end up draining radiator and taking it off for easier access

I tried a long screwdriver and put it on the back link and tried tapping it out, no such luck

It wouldn't budge. Will soak it overnight

Ok, what is the trick to removing chain coupler? I found the master link and separated that, now what?

Yeah, I'm going to try rotating with that cuppler off tomorrow

I think tomorrow after I get up, I'm going to tackle the hydro pump couplers and get it off so I can rotate or try to rotate crank from the pulley. Honestly, I hope that does it and I hope the issue was with the hydro pump

When I put trans into neutral and the pto in neutral, the pto will spin both ways. When I put pto into hi or low, it will spin clockwise only.

So, if the rings were stuck, would the ATF/xylene mix move past them that fast?

That is exactly what I have

I do have those 2 chains but can't remember if there was a master link. Will check when I get off work

How do I disconnect the front hydro pulley from the master link? I want to give that a try

Thanks, but I know I will be in over my ability on that, just don't have the resources. I will take it to a shop

My neighbor was a Lieutenant with the Cedar Rapids Police Department and on his days off, he did landscaping. He babied this thing as he does with all of his stuff. He parked it in his machine shed when he retired from CRPD and also stopped his landscaping as well. Where he parked it, that's...

Thanks for the link.....seen it before. Just not sure I want to do it. I live rural Anamosa, Iowa

I hear ya.....I will have to think on it

Looking at the loader under frame, I could see where it could possibly be done by myself. Just detaching the rear under frame bolts from the rear would leave the rest of it intact and all I would have to do is place some blocks under the loader frame. Then the tractor could be separated and the...

I think a talk with the shop is in order.

Took the starter back off and tried advancing flywheel....no go. Here is a look inside

How would I pressure up the cylinder?

I am kinda curious though, how fast (typically) should this fluid move past the rings? In an unstuck engine, how fast would the cylinders empty their contents?

Not saying I couldn't do it, I just don't have the resources for splitting it. If the loader wasn't in the way, I would consider it, but dealing with that has me not willing to do it. I have someone lined up if need be

That may be the case, which I hope it isn't. That will be outside of my ability

I will say that the fluid mixture in cylinders is hardly moving.....just little drips. So, for sure the rings are seized.

I think it looks pretty darn good in there.

I might even dump a can of coke in each cylinder

I tried that the other day and can try it again tomorrow. I had a bad angle and couldn't perceive any movement but can try that again

Well, took the head back off. I don't think any of the fluid in the cylinders moved down. I think what got down in the oil pan was overflow when I put the head back down. I started tapping on the piston tops, no movement. I filled the cylinders back up and slid the head back on.....hurry up and...

I did that with clutch and rolling. In gear, it won't roll and when I depress clutch, it rolls.

Yes, it was at the very bottom. About a dime size hole. Nothing came out. This machine has never sat outside in the elements prior to me picking it up. But, I guess I do live in Iowa and summer can get extremely humid so moisture can get into anything

Correct

What do you think would cause it? If clutch is working, is it something with flywheel or is it the engine?

I really hope this doesn't have to be split

Ok, got the starter off.....very interesting sight. There was an almost gypsum type substance all over inside. Cleaned it all up but there is probably more in areas I can't reach down at the bottom of flywheel housing. Tried advancing the flywheel to no avail. Could the gypsum type material be...

I went to remove the starter today and was limited on time. Didn't get it off. I will try again

Tried to free it in 6th gear to no avail. I tried looking through hole by starter. On mine, it was at the very bottom of flywheel housing and the loader cross member was in the way....that hole was only dime size

Here she is

That thing looks awesome

Well, I just pulled the dipstick and I am starting to smell some of the ATF/xylene mix in the oil. Just a faint smell, so it is starting to work it's way down.

I figured I would buy some rings and maybe a 75mm hone to knock off any buildup that could be around potential rusted rings. I tried popping clutch in 6th gear to no avail, however when I did it I was on gravel and not pavement

Clutch works fine. I have not drained the oil yet. That will be on the to do list. I have to get a filter for it and will probably just use some Mobil delvac I have on hand to replace oil with when I get to that point. I may let it sit for another week before I do anything more to it. I will try...

I used the xylene to thin the ATF as I read that xylene works better than acetone and I had some on hand. I will give it a few weeks and if I can't get any rotation on pto or don't see any evidence of the mixture in the oil, then I will pull the head and start tapping or maybe put diesel in the...

Thanks all. I'm going to keep letting it soak then I will try the access hole. I don't want to put too much pressure on it yet without a real good soak. Not quite a week yet and I'm not seeing any signs of this fluid in the oil

Yes I have

Been lurking on here for a bit and have learned a bunch. I have a yanmar 165D with 290 hours on it that has been sitting for the last 7 to 10 years in a machine shed. I am in the process of buying from my neighbor and it is actually now sitting at my house. Not able to get it started as I think...