1 cylinder not runnning Yanmar 1510d

[Jtullis13]

Thanks bmaverick, I just reached out to them.

 

[winston1]

Testing Injection Pump and Injectors

web.archive.org

 

[Jtullis13]

Thanks Winston, I will try this today!

 

[Jtullis13]

I reached out to the pumpguys and followed their procedure, but still no luck. They suggested I pull the pump and have it looked at. I would have never thought it would come to this.

Im going to try the procured that Winston sent me, and if that doesn’t work then I guess I’m pulling the pump.

 

[zzvyb6]

So if it runs on 2 cylinders but the number 3 is getting fuel, I'd expect puffs of white, unburned fuel vapor to be visible. If so, the it's possible that worn rings needed some fuel to get a decent compression pressure for combustion. If not, then there is insufficient injector pressure to open it. Just letting it squirt out is not a valid test. You need a device (Vevor, Home Depot, Harbor Freight is where I got mine) where you use a hand pump to create measured pressure pulses. They should all open and spray a cloud at about the same pressure, usually around 1800 - 2000 psi..
If they are all ok, then there likely is more serious concern about the internal rail or cam for #3.

Have you thought of just running it for a while to see if warming it up would help loosen up whatever is stuck? my 3 cylinder Yanmar motors take a while to add #3. (The fuel gauge doesn't know which tank I using so I can run out when the other is full and the gage indicates it.)

 

[Jtullis13]

When it starts, it has a few puffs of white smoke and then goes away, and no white smoke while it is running. I have let the engine warm up at idle and then at 1,000 rpm for a few minutes to see if it would open up and start working, but that didn't work either. How long should it take and at what rpm should I let it run? I was afraid of letting it run to long on 2 cylinders, and cause more issues than I already have.

 

[ponytug]

When it starts, it has a few puffs of white smoke and then goes away, and no white smoke while it is running. I have let the engine warm up at idle and then at 1,000 rpm for a few minutes to see if it would open up and start working, but that didn't work either. How long should it take and at what rpm should I let it run? I was afraid of letting it run to long on 2 cylinders, and cause more issues than I already have.

My experience is that @thepumpguysc knows his stuff. While you could try a few things, and it might change something, I think that that needs to be balanced against the risk of making a small problem into a big one. If he suggested pulling the pump, I would do as he suggests.

Given that your issue happened after running out of fuel, and you have changed the fuel filter, bled the fuel lines, and repriced the system, I think that the easy fixes aren't in the cards.

Running out of fuel for a diesel often generates problems for injection pumps, especially older pumps as those pumps were generally made of materials that relied on the high lubricity of older diesel. (And that is why machines of this vintage require lubricity additives when running on modern ULSD.)

If you do not have a great diesel shop locally, I would send it @thepumpguysc.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Jtullis13]

My experience is that @thepumpguysc knows his stuff. While you could try a few things, and it might change something, I think that that needs to be balanced against the risk of making a small problem into a big one. If he suggested pulling the pump, I would do as he suggests.

Given that your issue happened after running out of fuel, and you have changed the fuel filter, bled the fuel lines, and repriced the system, I think that the easy fixes aren't in the cards.

Running out of fuel for a diesel often generates problems for injection pumps, especially older pumps as those pumps were generally made of materials that relied on the high lubricity of older diesel. (And that is why machines of this vintage require lubricity additives when running on modern ULSD.)

If you do not have a great diesel shop locally, I would send it @thepumpguysc.

All the best,

Peter

I appreciate the advice Peter. I always use Opti Lube or Hot Shots EDT with my fuel for lubricity for the same reason you stated above. I have a shop close to here that I trust, however I am going to talk to thepumpguysc to see if they would be willing to look at it and rebuilt it for me.

 

[Jtullis13]

Ordered a new pump, should be here by Friday. As I look closer at the pump, it looks like I might have to pull the water pump too to get the IP out. Can anyone confirm this?

 

[Jtullis13]

Update. The new IP came in and I was able to remove the old pump fairly easily with a little work. I eyeballed the new pump against the old pump and decided to put one shim under it as I didn't have a micrometer to measure anything. Tried to time the IP the best I could since I was by myself doing this. I started up and idled good, but as I increased the RPM it started to cut out around 2000 rpm. I shut it down and bled the fuel lines again to make sure all air was out. Started it up again and it ran better but still had a little stutter at the 2000 rpm range. Decided to take it for a quick spin and it seemed to straighten out. It runs smooth and only has a little puff of grey smoke followed by a puff of black smoke when I shift gears and then no smoke at all. I think it is timed close enough unless someone else has something to add, please let me know. Holding on to the old pump until I decide what to do with it.

Thanks for everyone's help with this. Lesson learned, always check fuel level before using the tractor. I am usually really good about that, I just didn't think I had used the tractor that much yet is the only reason I didn't check that day.