1025R buying experience

[garyk2303]

Hi everyone, I purchased a 1025R with 60" auto connect mower and H120 loader attachment. I should get my tractor within the next two weeks as the dealer is waiting for 60" deck to arrive. My tractor arrived yesterday from the factory. I took it for a test drive and was very happy with it, with a few exceptions. I just noticed yesterday the fuel gauge on the fender, to me this is very cheap. I noticed that everything on this machine is plastic and the fit and finish of the plastic pieces is far from perfect. I noticed a wavy edge on the side of the hood and on the other side there is a circular indentation on the hood. I told the dealer I would like this fixed and they said they will write it up and try and get replacement parts from John Deere. This is my first SCUT and probably the last in my lifetime, I am hoping this machine was the rite decision as I did not even look at the competition! Thoughts?

 

[RalphVa]

Good luck. My 1025R was a lemon. Traded up to a 2025R. It doesn't have the auto install deck like the 1025R has, but I don't use the deck. Mainly use a bush hog and chipper/shredder.

Ralph

 

[Citydude]

I'm assuming since you just noticed the fuel gage on the fender, and plastic parts, you didn't look at one before purchase? In any case, fit and finish is important to some and not so much for others. Sounds like the dealer is trying to help by ordering new pieces that were not acceptable. I hope things work out for you.

 

[murphy1244]

Why didn't you look at the competition? Hope it ends up good for you. Tractor on!

 

[s219]

Plastic parts and fuel gauge were turnoffs when I was looking at this tractor in 2011 (was the 1026R then). But probably wouldn't have deterred me from buying it -- I think it's a good little tractor. I just happened to find a competing model I liked better.

 

[chevy]

I have a 1026R. It is the older model of the 1025R. I have over 200 hours on it. Having gone through electric fuel gauge problems on other garden & compact tractors, the non electric fuel gauge was a plus for me. The plastic trim was also a plus, no dents & scratches from minor bumps scrapes & no rust.
I cannot say that I ever paid attention to the fit of the plastic, but it looks fine to me. After all it is a tractor. If it were my truck or car, that would be different.
I have been very happy with my 1026R. I spent over 30 years pulling mower decks in & out from under tractors. There is no way I would go to any other tractor, unless it had the auto connect deck & pto.

 

[TripleR]

We bought a new 1025R a few months ago when our 2305 was smashed and while everyone that has used it prefers our BX2660, it has some really nice features like the position control 3PH and easy on-off deck. We have not noticed any manufacturing defects and since we had no issues with the plastic on our 2305 aren't concerned about it on the 1025R.

 

[Garycw]

Had my 1025R about 6 weeks and love it! It is s beast of a mower. Be sure to use rear ballast with loader.
The loader & deck quick& auto connect takes a little practice, but is great. First thing I did was jumper the rio switch and put a wheel spinner knob on. It's a pleasure to mow with. I have some major hills and also installed Bro-Tek wheel spacers and will load rear tires after 50 hr trans service.
Be careful about hitting things with ROPS, even folded and seat belt off... Or ROPS up and seat belt ON

 

[TripleR]

Had my 1025R about 6 weeks and love it! It is s beast of a mower. Be sure to use rear ballast with loader.
The loader & deck quick& auto connect takes a little practice, but is great. First thing I did was jumper the rio switch and put a wheel spinner knob on. It's a pleasure to mow with. I have some major hills and also installed Bro-Tek wheel spacers and will load rear tires after 50 hr trans service.
Be careful about hitting things with ROPS, even folded and seat belt off... Or ROPS up and seat belt ON

How much did your spacers add to your width? I have a set of 1 1/2" I got for the 2305, but got 2" for our BX.

 

[Garycw]

1&1/2" Ea. That's max not to hit deck. 3" total gain. They did help on hills, but when I load rear rear tires after trans Service , it'll be amazingly glued to the ground

 

[TripleR]

1&1/2" Ea. That's max not to hit deck. 3" total gain. They did help on hills, but when I load rear rear tires after trans Service , it'll be amazingly glued to the ground

Thanks, I loaded the rears on my BX2200 and weights on the 2660 and really like that, but we don't have a FEL on the 1025R, so I may leave them as is.

 

[Garycw]

Thanks, I loaded the rears on my BX2200 and weights on the 2660 and really like that, but we don't have a FEL on the 1025R, so I may leave them as is.

Loaded tires, especially rears make a huge difference on hills mowing across them. Traction is not a problem with 1025 though. I could only put two gal in fronts w/R4 tires. Otherwise they'd make ruts in yard on uphill turns.

 

[TripleR]

Loaded tires, especially rears make a huge difference on hills mowing across them. Traction is not a problem with 1025 though. I could only put two gal in fronts w/R4 tires. Otherwise they'd make ruts in yard on uphill turns.

I may look into loading them.

 

[KYThunder]

First thing I did was bypass the seat switch, easy to do, then I removed the panel under the seat and locked the reverse switch so I can mow in reverse normally (this was a little harder to do). If you have the auto connect deck, the little tab that releases the deck on the left hand side was VERY close to my rear tire, so much so in certain situations it would rub the tire and release the deck. Now let me tell you when that deck comes off and your not on a nice level concrete pad it is a pill to get back on. I simply took a wrench and bent the tab towards the center of the tractor and got some space between it and the tire. Just a few things I did to mine, been a good little tractor so far. Mine also has fluid in the rear tires and from experience with my previous subcompact the wasn't loaded, the difference is night and day, I didn't think you could get enough fluid in the tires to make a difference but it definitely does.

 

[Garycw]

Loaded tires make a HUGE difference. I don't understand how you disabled the rio switch under the seat? Mine was at the pto switch under right side panel.
Makes mowing a pleasure especially with added steering wheel spinner knob.
I wouldn't even think of disabling the seat switch. If I come out of the seat I want it to stop unless in neutral and brake locked.

 

[KYThunder]

Loaded tires make a HUGE difference. I don't understand how you disabled the rio switch under the seat? Mine was at the pto switch under right side panel.
Makes mowing a pleasure especially with added steering wheel spinner knob.
I wouldn't even think of disabling the seat switch. If I come out of the seat I want it to stop unless in neutral and brake locked.

Underneath the seat is a panel (behind where your feet are), there is a plunger style switch, you can operate the pedals and see how it works. When you go in Reverse it takes pressure off the switch and opens the circuit. I used a industrial zip tie and locked it closed and remounted it so the tractor "thinks" its always in forward so the rio switch never activates. The seat thing is a personal preference, heck both of them are to be honest .

 

[Garycw]

Wished I'd have known that instead of cutting wire. I get a error message and deck won't engage unless you back up a little then forward sometimes. I assumed it's because of wire. I'll check out the switch & put wire back to see if it solves that intermittent issue. The rio bypass is a necessity for me.

 

[KYThunder]

It's under that kickplate, I think your 3 point hitch speed knob sticks through it, (it has a set screw in it for removal),then a few bolts, a little tricky over where the deck height adjustment knob is. Underneath on the right side you will see the rods for the forward/reverse pedals and the switch is mounted to a plate which contacts the reverse side, you will see what I'm talking about. I unbolted it and filed a small groove in it to hold the zip tie then put electric tape on it as an extra. Then I bolted it back on and it remains "pushed in" so it never thinks its in reverse. Took a little time to find it when I did it, I could hear it clicking but couldn't find it, after I removed the panel its right there in plain sight. If I were you I would wire it back and try this to see if that solves your problem. If you have any trouble let me know, I can take some pics of mine if you need it. Also you need to zip tie it so pedal will not contact it to loosen it up. All this will make sense when you see it. Mine has been done since day one and it has 65 hours with no problems.