12 x 16 Shed - Foundation Questions

[Depmandog]

I wouldn't stress the foundation issue (or lack there of) too much. Here in the Midwest, we see all of the 4 seasons. I had ours built about 6 years ago and my doors still shut just fine.

TUFF SHED: Storage Sheds, Installed Garages, Custom Buildings, Backyard Gazebos, Storage Cabinets, and Flooring built mine. They used galvanized steel for the floor framing on mine. So I expect many more years of life from my building...even sitting in the dirt.

 

[nybirdman]

Forget any concrete.I installed about a foot of gravel and built off of that.Hasn't moved a bit.This in Northern NY with lots of snow and frost.
Wood floor is about the best storage building you could have;concrete the worst.
Floating building;non-permanent =no taxes.
The Amish around here sell hundreds of pre-built sheds every year.Drop shipped with a trailer anywhere you want.

 

[radioman]

You are in Webster, NY right in the lake effect snow belt off Lake Ontario, I would do the roof on 16" centers, 1/2" plywood over them and skip shingles and go with steel.

No need for metal roof. I am in Ontario ny and we get MORE snow then webster does .. by few inches caused by the wind stream phenomenon. I have a gabrel style shed roof and its all shingles. just use proper nailing for high winds.6 roofing nails . Architectural shingles has better shear strength then 3 tabs. My shed only rests on 4x4 posts on the 2 by 4 by 8 blocks. I am mostly clay here which is similar to webster. My shed blacks sunk halfway and stopped and its been that way for over 10 years. Before that it was in a worst wet spot where I had to move this same shed and it sunk there right up to the bottom frame because of water and previous owner left it that way.

So my advice to you is find a spot where you can walk out there in the wettest part of fall and spring and not get mud on your shoes. This would be a good spot for your shed without shed foundation worries.

 

[EddieWalker]

How level is your ground?

If it was me and I couldn't pour a concrete foundation, I would set PT 6x6 posts in the ground just like if I was building a deck. Then I would notch the posts to fit my beams and then put my joists on top of my beams. Instead of standard decking used on patios, I would use 3/4 inch tongue and groove plywood for my floor and build up from there.

My first choice would be to fill the posts with dirt but if the soil is loose or sandy, I would use concrete.

Eddie

 

[narampa]

I built a 16x20 shed. I took off only the black dirt down to grey soil. I lay down 22 sidewalk blocks and on top of those I put some smaller patio blocks. The floor is 2x10 treated. Two layers of tongue and grove flooring.
I park my 1993 dodge 3/4 ton 4x4 diesel in it as I don't use it as my principal driver. The shed is wired and drywall. I have not experienced any cracking or door problems. If you like I could post some pictures of it.
It is not necessary to go to a lot off bother with piling and spending a lot of money on a base.
My little garage shed is 15 yrs old and I love it.
Our temperature range is 100+ to minus 45.

 

[OldMasterTech]

Hi,
I'm going to build a 12 x 16 shed this summer and would like some opinions on the foundation. What I would LIKE to do is pour a concrete pad... Unfortunately, the town does not allow a permanent foundation under a "shed".
So, what I'm GOING to do is build a pressure treated stick framed floor and support it (the ground is slightly uneven) with pre-cast concrete post bases and 4x4 posts.

One concern I have is that the ground under the shed may settle over the years and I may need to re-level it by jacking up parts and adding some shim material under the pre-cast bases.
Because of that, I really don't want to have to crawl under the shed. I'd like all of the supports to be around the perimeter.

Questions:

How many support posts should I use?
What pressure treated framing lumber is best to make the 12' span?
Is 2' on center the right spacing?

I have attached a quick drawing that shows the basic framing with my proposed post locations.

Feedback please...
Thank you,
Doug

Doug, I just quickly scanned thru your towns building guidelines and I don't see any reason you can't pour a slab. What did I miss?

 

[J_J]

Here is the finished product.

 

[Blaneypark]

Another thing to think about. If you build it up on blocks critters won't make a home under it.

 

[chim]

I agree with KennyG (Post# 7). Treated skids on a slightly raised crushed stone has is how we've done three of them. Our first shed was in great shape after 17 years when we moved away from that property.

Next shed survived 23 years here till the roof went bad. I should have re-roofed it when it began to go south, but didn't. I was about to torch it to get rid of it when the latest shed arrived 3 years ago. Upon examining it, I discovered the walls were solid and the bottom was in great shape. I framed a new roof and gathered some used steel roofing from a remodel project at work. It is now an extra storage space.

The newest shed is where the L3200 lives. No problems with the weight. Could be the whole shed rises an inch in the winter, but I can't see it.

 

[pat32rf]

Its not the temperature but the water content that decides frost heave. Our driveway is wet gravel and will heave 6" above the lawn that is not plowed so has a lot less frost.
Been to Webster once and stayed in a very wet campground for one night. If there was any way to pour a floating slab that is the route I would take. Other than that a regular floor sitting on a pair of PT beams about 10 feet apart with a foot of overhang at each side.