12k Trailer Jack Drill Adapter

[JCoastie]

just using an 18v Ryobi drill on low, (higher torgue, lower speed) I didn't think an impact would be good for the gears. Even on low, it's pretty quick moving the jack position. When the rain stops, I'll try to get a video.

 

[Hay Dude]

You oughta make those, paint em black and sell em.
With the popularity of cordless drills, and the standard size of the jack stub, theyd sell like Pats Easy Change.

 

[4570Man]

What type of impact tool are you using to power it? 1/2", 1/4", 12v, 20v, etc.??

An impact will eventually cause damage to the jack. You need a continuous rotation tool like a drill.

 

[Hay Dude]

An impact will eventually cause damage to the jack. You need a continuous rotation tool like a drill.

A slip clutch equipped drill would be a good idea, too

 

[JDZ735M]

A slip clutch equipped drill would be a good idea, too

I don't think it has a slip clutch but this would do it.

Milwaukee M18 FUEL 18V Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 1/2 in. Hole Hawg Right Angle Drill (Tool-Only) 2707-20 - The Home Depot

Afford high performance of your battery by choosing this inexpensive Milwaukee M LithiumIon Brushless Cordless Hole Hawg Right Angle Drill.

www.homedepot.com

 

[newbury]

Along similar lines I purchased a BIG RED T10152 Torin Steel Scissor Lift Jack Car Kit for my trailer. Found when I slide it back under the axles cranking it was a royal pain.
/edit due to handle length and configuration.
So I slid a 6 point socket on an extension for my 20v Max drill and slipped the socket over where the crank handle connects. Easy as can be.

 

[JCoastie]

As above, just using a standard old (non-brushless) 18v Ryobi 1/2 drill with a hex to 3/8 adapter and deep well socket.
the small 1.5ah battery didn't work well, but the 3a worked just fine.
Drill is an old P271, long discontinued, I'm sure modern drill will work even better.

Here is a short video, wobbly with one hand on the drill and one on the camera. New video by JCoastie

 

[Cataclysm]

I have a small plasma table that I cut the yokes on. I weld on 2 different nut sizes. The big one is an extra lug nut off the trailer, the small one is a 14mm socket that is used to run the speedbinders. That way I have at least 2 common sockets to run the trailer jack.

As mentioned, I wouldn't use an impact. I run it in low range, and it won't lift the trailer off the gooseneck when the 6-ton excavator is loaded. It is a wrist twister when you are raising the jack leg and it hits the stop.

Here is the drill I use.

 

[Cataclysm]

I bet you could sell those on line for $50.
I’d buy one.
I think an impact might vibrate the gears in the jack too much?
Maybe better with a low speed 1/2” cordless drill? Like an electricians drill, but 20V cordless?

If you are directing that to me I have thought about making a few extras.

One added benefit is theft deterrent. I run the trailer jack all the way down and take the adapter and original handle with me. The trailer is too low to get on a ball and no easy way to raise it.

 

[Hay Dude]

If you are directing that to me I have thought about making a few extras.

One added benefit is theft deterrent. I run the trailer jack all the way down and take the adapter and original handle with me. The trailer is too low to get on a ball and no easy way to raise it.

No, J Coastie, but you as well!