12v wire splice

[nickel plate]

I need to splice into a 12v wire that is hot only when the ignition key is on. The accessory manufacturer sent a splicing connector in the kit but I'm wondering if I should use something better, if there is such a thing.
The one provided is a 14-16 AWG made out of blue plastic and has a metal blade that once the existing hot wire and the new accessory wire are inserted, you close down on a plastic flap to force the metal blade into the two wires and create a continuing circuit. Is there anything better or should I just go with this?

 

[Trkrd]

They work great, use them all the time. Just mash that metal clip in with channel locks or slip joint pliers and snap the plastc insulator over it and you're good to go.

 

[Mike058]

Nothing better-that's exactly what you should use. Channellock type pliers work the best for me for pushing that metal piece down-as opposed to regular pliers.

 

[ss4010]

I need to splice into a 12v wire that is hot only when the ignition key is on. The accessory manufacturer sent a splicing connector in the kit but I'm wondering if I should use something better, if there is such a thing.
The one provided is a 14-16 AWG made out of blue plastic and has a metal blade that once the existing hot wire and the new accessory wire are inserted, you close down on a plastic flap to force the metal blade into the two wires and create a continuing circuit. Is there anything better or should I just go with this?

In my opinion nothing is better for making wire connections than solder. The solder-less connectors supplier in you kit are good for temporary connections but don't hold up to the rigor of outdoor / heavy duty use. Use good electrical grade solder, tinning flux and three layers of shrink tubing and you have a connection that is water tight, will not corode and is stronger than the wire to which you made the connection.

Here's a random link similar to what I'm talking about.

Splicing wires

I add tinning flux to the wires, solder them and then three layers of progressively longer shrink tubing.

Unless it's an emergency repair I will always use this sort of connection technique. I was educated the hard way. While offshore in the boat I had several wiring issues attributed to solderless connectors. They allowed the wire to corrode inside the insulation up to an 1 1/2" back from the connection, there was nothing but green powder (copper oxide).


Steve


O yeah forgot to add that the smash together type connectors you are using will limit the current capacity of the existing line. Essentially it cuts into some of the strands of the wire. The reason most wire is multi-stranded is because the electrons travel on the skin (outer portion) of each strand of wire. The skin effect is why a multi strand wire of the same gauge will carry more amps than a solid conductor. The smash together connector will cut through some of the stands creating a lower ampacity circuit.

I lost the computer in my truck because some bozo used one of these connectors to splice a cell phone into the same line that supplies the computer with power....

 

[MikeD74T]

nickle plate, Listen closely to ss4010, you may get away with scotchlock type connectors Scotch Lock Connector - Blue Gel 804C : Trailer hitch bike rack and trailer hitches - etrailer.com in sunny California but in any state that salts their roads scotch lock connectors are junk & a problem in the making. Use soldered connections or silicone sealed butt connectors. When I get scotchlocks in a kit I just throw them away, don't even save for another application. MikeD74T

 

[ray66v]

In my opinion nothing is better for making wire connections than solder. The solder-less connectors supplier in you kit are good for temporary connections but don't hold up to the rigor of outdoor / heavy duty use.

Steve

Amen.

Those blue connectors referred to by the op are called Scotch Locks. They do not make a good long term connection.

I cannot tell you how many times I have had cut one out, someone else has put in. ESPECIALLY if they are used outside of the vehicle. Trailer wiring is a good example. They fail all time.

Crimped butt connectors are much better than Scotch Locks.

But if I am doing it to last, I solder the connection. Then, use shrink tubing and it will NEVER fail.

 

[tractorsanmore]

I agree solder ( rosin core ) and heat shrink tubing with the sealer in them is the best way to go .

 

[Skyco]

O yeah forgot to add that the smash together type connectors you are using will limit the current capacity of the existing line. Essentially it cuts into some of the strands of the wire. The reason most wire is multi-stranded is because the electrons travel on the skin (outer portion) of each strand of wire. The skin effect is why a multi strand wire of the same gauge will carry more amps than a solid conductor. The smash together connector will cut through some of the stands creating a lower ampacity circuit.

Skin effect is not a factor in a DC circuit. A properly designed and made IDC (insulation displacement connector) doesn't cut any strands either....
Scotchloks are a type of IDC. I've had good luck with them, unless they get moisture on them. There are some Scothcloks made with a protective "jelly" in them to stop moisture.

 

[Egon]

I go for the solder connection too.

Had the Scotch locks fail on the truck trailer hitch wiring on a regular basis.

 

[ray66v]

Can anyone tell me why the word cut is always underlined on here???

 

[nickel plate]

The wire that I need to splice is for a dash mounted on/off switch for a new Warn winch on my UTV. If I splice in near the ignition behind the dash it will be a "T" splice. Any suggestions? Strip back the ignition hot wire enough to wrap and solder the on/off switch wire? How do you then apply heat shrink?
Or should I trace the hot wire to it's termination point and attach the on/off switch wire there?

 

[zman007007]

sounds like it would be a lot easier if you ran a wire straight to the battery, and installed an inline fuse. zman

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Depending on the amount of current you want to pull through that wire. Smashing the crimp with pliers can nick the strands. The best crimp is with a crimping set of pliers. Like others have said soldering is a safer method to avoid corrosion loss of connections. Skin affect doesn't come into play with electricity until a frequency of 500 Megahertz and higher. Scroll down about half way on the link here for a better description than I can provide.
PS: Yes it is a bit of a geeky link but this is what I do at my full time job.

Lessons In Electric Circuits -- Volume II (AC) - Chapter 3

 

[mmurphy]

I my self would try to find a starting point of the wire where it hooks to a screw if you can, and put a connector at that point. Any connection can end up in problems, if you are not experienced at soldering that could end up a problem also. Really no perfect solution but if you use scotch connector take time get it right and probably will work just fine.

 

[Skyco]

Skin affect doesn't come into play with electricity until a frequency of 500 Megahertz and higher.

Believe it or not the skin depth of 60Hz AC is about 8.5mm. Not a factor in "house wiring" but can be a factor in really large transmission lines. The higher the frequency the shallower the skin depth.

Here is a link that explains it- http://www.microwaves101.com/encyclopedia/skindepth.cfm

 

[eepete]

Soldering is great. If you need more flux, rosin core only. Skin effect not an issue in tractor stuff.

The arsenal of stuff to protect the wire includes "liquid electric tape" (that's the product name), Scotch Lock (used to coat and protect wires and metal from moisture), heat shrink tubing (including the "filled" tubing), RTV aka silicone bathtub seal (but keep it away from the touching the copper, it puts out vinegar a mild acid). Self vulcanizing tape (aka "coax seal") is good for coving things at the end of the job. Nylon wrap ("spiral wrap") also good for protecting wires and bundling things, just be careful the white color stuff degrades with UV- buy they black type. Same on tie wraps, but even the black ones degrade in sunlight after 2 years. Finally, good electrical tape for protecting things including the self vulcanizing tape. Scotch 33+ or 88 if your working in the cold.

Making a gas tight crimp in the field is difficult without the proper tools. The PSI needed to make it gas tight is very high. Note that some systems, like the PowerWerx, have field crimpers designed for the connectors. I still solder them after the crimp, but that's just me.

And for wire, I like stranded and tinned. I also get the 600V insulation for the extra thickness. Temp rating should be 105 C.

Nickel Plate: Instead of a 'T' splice, I'd cut the wire and then splice/solder all three. The original in line with the new wire in line and away from the switch. The you can cover it all with heat shrink (get the filled kind). Just be sure you can keep the heat shrink 6"+ away from the point where you solder so it doesn't shrink before you're ready. Also consider a 2nd bigger piece to cover it all.

Pete

 

[weedpharma]

While I agree that the crimp connectors are not the best way to go they can be made less weather prone. It is not always possible to use heatshrink tubing either. In these situations use self amalgamating rubber tape.

This tape comes in rolls similar to standard insulating tape but is a little thicker and made of rubber. When applying, you stretch the tape and wind it around the joint. After a short time the layers of tape shrink and virtually become one piece tightly wrapped around the joint. It does not loosen or slip like standard insulating tape.

weedpharma

 

[Kfbeal]

We use: Fusion Tapes - Fusion Tape-Single

on some Wireless antenna connections. Works well and self-adhesive to itself when stretched. Don't stretch to tear, cut it so it doesn't un-wrap.

 

[Scotty370]

No question that soldering and shrink wrap is superior IMHO. But like flaring tubing, I often solder the wires, (or flare the tubing) only to find the shrink sleeve (or flare nut) laying there, that I forgot to put on prior!!

 

[eepete]

Weedpharma and kfbeal and I are all hawking the same stuff, just different names. Self vulcanizing tape, coax seal, fusion tape, self amalgamating tape. I'll bet an electrician can chime in with the Scotch trade name for this too. This stuff is the "fluid film" of electrical connections. Getcha some.

Great minds think alike (and fools seldom differ).

Scotty, flaring tubing, heat shrink, making RF connectors- they all have the same problem. After you get it wrong for the 30th time, you're good to go (until the next time).

Pete