12v wire splice

[nickel plate]

The wire that I need to splice is for a dash mounted on/off switch for a new Warn winch on my UTV. If I splice in near the ignition behind the dash it will be a "T" splice. Any suggestions? Strip back the ignition hot wire enough to wrap and solder the on/off switch wire? How do you then apply heat shrink?
Or should I trace the hot wire to it's termination point and attach the on/off switch wire there?

 

[zman007007]

sounds like it would be a lot easier if you ran a wire straight to the battery, and installed an inline fuse. zman

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Depending on the amount of current you want to pull through that wire. Smashing the crimp with pliers can nick the strands. The best crimp is with a crimping set of pliers. Like others have said soldering is a safer method to avoid corrosion loss of connections. Skin affect doesn't come into play with electricity until a frequency of 500 Megahertz and higher. Scroll down about half way on the link here for a better description than I can provide.
PS: Yes it is a bit of a geeky link but this is what I do at my full time job.

Lessons In Electric Circuits -- Volume II (AC) - Chapter 3

 

[mmurphy]

I my self would try to find a starting point of the wire where it hooks to a screw if you can, and put a connector at that point. Any connection can end up in problems, if you are not experienced at soldering that could end up a problem also. Really no perfect solution but if you use scotch connector take time get it right and probably will work just fine.

 

[Skyco]

Skin affect doesn't come into play with electricity until a frequency of 500 Megahertz and higher.

Believe it or not the skin depth of 60Hz AC is about 8.5mm. Not a factor in "house wiring" but can be a factor in really large transmission lines. The higher the frequency the shallower the skin depth.

Here is a link that explains it- http://www.microwaves101.com/encyclopedia/skindepth.cfm

 

[eepete]

Soldering is great. If you need more flux, rosin core only. Skin effect not an issue in tractor stuff.

The arsenal of stuff to protect the wire includes "liquid electric tape" (that's the product name), Scotch Lock (used to coat and protect wires and metal from moisture), heat shrink tubing (including the "filled" tubing), RTV aka silicone bathtub seal (but keep it away from the touching the copper, it puts out vinegar a mild acid). Self vulcanizing tape (aka "coax seal") is good for coving things at the end of the job. Nylon wrap ("spiral wrap") also good for protecting wires and bundling things, just be careful the white color stuff degrades with UV- buy they black type. Same on tie wraps, but even the black ones degrade in sunlight after 2 years. Finally, good electrical tape for protecting things including the self vulcanizing tape. Scotch 33+ or 88 if your working in the cold.

Making a gas tight crimp in the field is difficult without the proper tools. The PSI needed to make it gas tight is very high. Note that some systems, like the PowerWerx, have field crimpers designed for the connectors. I still solder them after the crimp, but that's just me.

And for wire, I like stranded and tinned. I also get the 600V insulation for the extra thickness. Temp rating should be 105 C.

Nickel Plate: Instead of a 'T' splice, I'd cut the wire and then splice/solder all three. The original in line with the new wire in line and away from the switch. The you can cover it all with heat shrink (get the filled kind). Just be sure you can keep the heat shrink 6"+ away from the point where you solder so it doesn't shrink before you're ready. Also consider a 2nd bigger piece to cover it all.

Pete

 

[weedpharma]

While I agree that the crimp connectors are not the best way to go they can be made less weather prone. It is not always possible to use heatshrink tubing either. In these situations use self amalgamating rubber tape.

This tape comes in rolls similar to standard insulating tape but is a little thicker and made of rubber. When applying, you stretch the tape and wind it around the joint. After a short time the layers of tape shrink and virtually become one piece tightly wrapped around the joint. It does not loosen or slip like standard insulating tape.

weedpharma

 

[Kfbeal]

We use: Fusion Tapes - Fusion Tape-Single

on some Wireless antenna connections. Works well and self-adhesive to itself when stretched. Don't stretch to tear, cut it so it doesn't un-wrap.

 

[Scotty370]

No question that soldering and shrink wrap is superior IMHO. But like flaring tubing, I often solder the wires, (or flare the tubing) only to find the shrink sleeve (or flare nut) laying there, that I forgot to put on prior!!

 

[eepete]

Weedpharma and kfbeal and I are all hawking the same stuff, just different names. Self vulcanizing tape, coax seal, fusion tape, self amalgamating tape. I'll bet an electrician can chime in with the Scotch trade name for this too. This stuff is the "fluid film" of electrical connections. Getcha some.

Great minds think alike (and fools seldom differ).

Scotty, flaring tubing, heat shrink, making RF connectors- they all have the same problem. After you get it wrong for the 30th time, you're good to go (until the next time).

Pete