135 continental dies and will not start.

[Mike476]

Sounds like you thought you had your electrical problem fixed and you're thinking now the problem is fuel? If you had to try to pull it to start it was it because you killed the battery trying to start it once it stalled?

Your story of holding the wire to see if it's getting her spark reminded me of when I was around 9 years old, always hung around dad because he was always tearing something down for someone. This time it was an old Elan snowmobile and one day he said "here son, hold on to this, I want to see if she's getting her spark. OK dad" I said enthusiastically, I can tell you when he pulled that cord I lit up like a Xmas tree, have found other ways to troubleshoot since then, and so did dad when mom heard me scream like a girl. I still laugh when I think of it but man was it a jolt.

I'd concentrate on getting it running again first, you can still shift so no problem getting it into neutral. If it is a simple matter of adjusting your clutch pedal that's no big deal.

 

[Don87]

It's never a good idea to hold a plug, or coil wire, to test for spark. While an older engine such as the Continental will give you a good jolt, some newer electronic ignitions carry enough amperage to stop your heart from beating.

 

[birddog0304]

Your story of holding the wire to see if it's getting her spark reminded me of when I was around 9 years old, always hung around dad because he was always tearing something down for someone. This time it was an old Elan snowmobile and one day he said "here son, hold on to this, I want to see if she's getting her spark. OK dad" I said enthusiastically, I can tell you when he pulled that cord I lit up like a Xmas tree, have found other ways to troubleshoot since then, and so did dad when mom heard me scream like a girl. I still laugh when I think of it but man was it a jolt.


Mike, that's a hilarious story. Is there a forum for those? I'm sure we could all contribute if we were humble enough.

 

[Mike476]

Can never take yourself so seriously that you can't laugh at yourself, or take it personally, makes life much easier I believe.

Don is right though, the intent of the story was to suggest that another means, other than holding on to any wire, is usually a better choice. As far as the difference in todays electronics from those of yesteryear, those armatures on the old Elans put out quite a jolt, enough so you lost momentary control of all involuntary muscle groups, if you know what I mean.........................

 

[johnking]

I am chasing here but I think the problem started with a bad ground. I retaped a place on the ground coming from the distrib to the coil(when replacing the coil) and it ran until I ran it out of gas the last time and it would not restart. Tonight I replaced the ground and noticed that the wire from the temp gauge(steel and brass) had started touching and had somewhat welded itself to the + terminal of the coil. Just above the coil it looks like someone added a fuse. The wiring was redone sometime in the past to bypass the neutral safety switch so the schematic does not follow the book exactly. I cannot find the fuse in the manuals so I am assuming it is added. Previously when checking the electrics with my test light it would light up when I placed the probe on the + heading into the coil and now it does not so I think the fuse is blown. I will try and take pictures tonight if I can get the tractor home. Does the fuse need to be there? Should I replace the fuse or just cut it out of the circuit?

 

[birddog0304]

I may have missed it, but did you replace the distributor cap? Saw that you changed coils.

 

[The kid]

The question is John. What would have happened if the fuse had not been there? I'd say yes, keep the fuse.

 

[Mike476]

Just my opinion John so please don't take it the wrong way but depending on your ability to read wiring schematics I would suggest returning the configuration to original, bypassing the neutral safety switch isn't a good thing. The other thing I would do is something I've begun doing every Fall, just finished it last week while home, and remove EVERY connection, including lighting / guages / switches, and clean up all contacts. Inspect the wiring for things like you'd found, replace any damaged wiring with a new run if practical instead of splicing in, and eliminate wiring as a possible cause for all your woes. It may sound daunting but there is very little wiring on these old girls, takes me between 2-3 hours / 2-3 coffees, laymans pace.

If you're not confident in your ability to read a schematic, and many aren't, if you have a friend who is an electrician or mechanic with some training to help you through this part of your troubleshooting, buy him a case of brew and invite him over for a Saturday afternoon of man-cave time. :thumbsup:

 

[johnking]

I am going to try a new fuse, if it does not work I will take it to a shop.

 

[johnking]

Mike, replacing the wiring is a great idea. I placed a fuse in place of what I think was an existing fuse(I will post pics as soon as I can) and she fired right up. I think the original issue was the ground wire and then the fuse burnt out was God teaching me to be thorough. I would like to thank everyone here for the help you helped me learn a lot.
But another issue popped up when I was trying to trailer the old girl. I was trying to back her onto the trailer due to a flat right front and the back wheels started to spin as I went up the trailer. It was dark and raining of course. I thought the wheels were spinning but the gears could have not been engaging. I drove back down the trailer to get a running start and the shifters would go into the gears but the gears would not engage. What now? Is it as simple as adjusting the clutch or what? The engine now runs true and strong.