1500 Too Small?

[dougfollett]

I just bought a Yanmar 1500 with two wheel drive. I have been borrowing the neighbors John Deer four wheel drive which I believe is just a tad more HP. I Have about an acre of rolling land that I am trying to till and fertilize. I was doing fine with the John Deer and thought I had the heavy work done. All I need to do now is drag it with a harrow and knock down the lumpy areas and smooth it out a bit. Hithced up the Yanmar and set out. I didn't make it very far before I was digging my way to China with the rear wheels. I barely got free. I set out again and the same thing happned. I keep getting stuck and digging in. The dirt is dry and soft but the John Deer had no problems what so ever. Do I need a four wheel tractor? I feel kind of stupid because I just bought the thing and it won't do what I need it to. Other than that it is a fine little tractor. It came with a front loader, brush hog, post hole digger and a scraping bucket. All for $5900. I'm thinking of selling it already. Is there anything I can do to make this one work?

 

[normde2001]

I assume you are pulling a harrow or scrape blade with the front loader attached. That's a classic reason why FEL's are not usually recommended for 2WD tractors. The loader, even empty, shifts most of the weight to the front, resulting in a great loss of traction to the rear wheels. I hear they are downright dangerous with a loaded bucket, going downhill. Brakes and engine braking become non-existent and you just slide down the hill. You need a lot of additional weight on the rear wheels with either wheel weights or liquid in the tires.

 

[Turfman]

I feel your pain. I have a Kubota, 4 WD. When I get into the dirt I always put it into 4 WD. If I don't I end up with the same results as you have stated. My best guess is that you need a 4 wheel drive tractor for the kind of work you are doing. The Deere handled the job in 4 WD and your Yannie isn't making it with 2 WD. The fact that you are burying it into the dirt suggests that you have enough horsepower, just not enough traction. You might try loading the tires for a little extra weight. Best of luck with your problem. After having 4 wheel drive, I'd never go back to 2 WD.

 

[blackd]

Try a smaller implement, it's much cheaper. Too much implement for the traction. What kind of tires do you have?

 

[crb478]

Were you using 4wd with the John Deere? Are you using the diferential lock with the 1500? For what you are describing as rolling hills for a acre the 1500 should do the job. Like some one said earlier the front end loader may be shifting too much weight forward, and you may need to play with getting the right amount of weight on the rear tires.

 

[jimstractors]

Thats one reason why we won't put a loader on 2WD tractors. Also, as mentioned, going downhill with a full bucket without 4WD can be suicide.
Jim
JimsTractors@hotmail.com

 

[dougfollett]

Yes I was using 4 wheel dirve with the JD. I'm not that familiar with these things. I did use the differential lock several times with the Yanmar but it didn't seem to have the same effect that it did when I used it with the JD. The differential lock is that lever that you step on and it momentairly puts drive to both rear wheels right? The JD also has filled rear tires and the Yanmar doesn't. Would this make a big difference?

 

[jyoutz]

Your 1500 has enough HP to do what you want to do, but it really needs help in the traction dept. You should try filling your rear tires first and even adding additional rear weight, like mounting your scraper blade and dragging the harrow behind the blade. Maybe also try tire chains on the rears. If these suggestions don't work, then you don't a larger HP tractor, but you do need one with 4wd.

 

[EFC]

You need ballast. That tractor will pull a house but it has a 500 lbs weight trying to flip it fwd and you need to correct that. Please don’t fill the tires with ballast, you don’t get enough weight to really make a difference and down the road when it starts leaking (and it will) it will destroy your wheels. Tire chains are downright dangerous and if you do use them please be veeerry careful, I have more than a few friends that have been severely hurt by them. If your using your drawbar to pull, design something that you can lift with your 3point that is nice and heavy, a box full of railroad iron never hurts. /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

 

[tractorlet]

The solution to your problem is a combination of things to overcome the tractor imbalance. Power is not your problem.

The first thing to do is to drop the loader as most farmiers do when working with rear implements in the field. It may not be an easy job but will be worth it.

If you don't want to, or can't, remove the loader at least remove the bucket. In smaller loaders that is far heavier than should be and its forward position gives added imbalance.

If you remove the bucket and have a heavy enough piece of equipment on the back you should have solved the problem.

Wheel fill may be just what you need if there is more weight needed. It hasn't been a problem for most.

As for a good set of chains, they also add weight and aid traction. OSHA has never had any problems of a serious nature and virtually no injuries from their use, or misuse. Not withstanding anecdotal offerings.

Try these and I'm confident you'll find your YM1500 will do the job you have described.