1500D Modifications

[Scotty Dive]

Scotty welcome and here is my simple solution.

They are cheap the 10 and 12SI are bigger than the 100 amp CS like the OP used but you just may need a CS from a junk yard to get the pigtail I dont know about that they may sell them to for all I know?


Take the brown 14ga wire run it thru a bulb and then to the run term on ign switch and the 2 terminal 12 ga red wire goes back onto the output term of the alt with an eyelet they work nice and simple. hth

Your bulb circuit is simply a ground in the regulator (I think) but it would be easy to wire the existing bulb right into this add on GM alt pigtail etc and have it just like it is on the dash etc.

Thanks..I have a few questions....

First what is CS and OP?

So in a three wire - 1 wire to the battery positive terminal, 1 wire to the idiot light (existing) and the last wire to a 12 v switched (ignition on) post?

 

[Car Doc]

Thanks..I have a few questions....

First what is CS and OP?

So in a three wire - 1 wire to the battery positive terminal, 1 wire to the idiot light (existing) and the last wire to a 12 v switched (ignition on) post?

OP is original poster at least thats how I use it? The CS is the next series of GM alternators after the SI series.

I believe from 86 to 99 but could be wrong its been years since I worked on American cars however I was a Chevy specialist before I switched to Toyota and Honda fwtw.

These are high output and a lot smaller, they had a problem burning up in the first models and they redesigned them and added another fan that made them pretty good.

Here is a quick search of how to ID GM alts hth-http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130-cs130d-series-alternators.htm

The number of wires is more a matter of how a car is equipt than anything some newer alternators are computer controlled and may have more wires in the regulator pig tail so I cant give you an exact explaination.

What you said isn't the normal way because the bulb circuit IS the switched circuit thats where the alternator normally gets its input to turn on on a standard configuration and not a computer controlled unit.

I would stick to the simpler late 80's early 90's style for simplicity sake and I am sure you can use one wire to the regulator from the ignition switch/bulb and one big wire to the battery/starter positive terminal on that era CS style high output alt.

A more accurate diagram could be drawn up once you get the alt but like I said a trip to a junk yard and buy just the right one a CS with the one wire regulator pigtail like on pickups and get 6" of that wire and the connector and the alternator is all you need it will wire up just like I said very simple.

Buying an alt from the zone etc is going to cost you a core charge and that is usually another $50 so that is not my first choice!

I could confuse the situation further by saying a nippondenso alt from a Toyota is smaller yet and puts out a 100 amps but I haven't installed one in anything but what it came out of so cant say off hand how to wire one up although I know it would be just as easy I cant stake my rep on it at this moment in time.

Oh and a slight correction on the SI pig tails the parts store carry's I said there is a red and brown wire that isn't correct I remembered they are white 14ga for the term 1 and red 12ga for term 2 no biggy but I like getting things straight.

 

[clemsonfor]

Dont get hung up on wire to the battery or to the starter thing. Remember that you wire your battery to your starter so no matter where it is it is like hooking it to the battery (as long as your on the right terminal on the starter). Thats why there is a red wire to your starter thats hot, its waiting to start at any point.

 

[Car Doc]

Good point Clemson the KISS principle apply's here.

Also Scotty getting the new alternator mounted and where it has proper alignment/adjustment/belt type etc is going to be a lot harder than wiring it so dont worry about the wiring it is nothing its all there in your tractor now as is. :thumbsup:

 

[Scotty Dive]

Thanks all.....yes I am getting ahead of myself....I won't be tackling this for awhile yet...so don't be surprised when I bring this all up again later this summer or Fall

I plan on walking into my local rebuilder and have them show me the smallest footprint alternators they have and see if I can make it fit in my limited space. See pic below. I removed the dynamo so you can see where it goes....but I have that coolant bypass hose to contend with. I think there is room above it though with soem bracketry

 

[Car Doc]

Looks like enough space for one of these small HO alts to me and that is a good idea looking at whats available size wise we can help you figure the wiring later that wont be an issue promise!

And dont forget the one head bolt on the left front on the engine its long enough to put a bracket on with a nut that may add needed support. :thumbsup: