1533 no start, problem?

   / 1533 no start, problem? #11  
MrSteve:
When my tractor 1528 was delivered the mechanic mentioned the possibility of that happening and told me to disconnect the safety switch under the seat and jump it with a wire (tractor side). Haven't had to yet but thought it worth a try? Good luck. Dennis:mad:
 
   / 1533 no start, problem?
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Thanks for that... I think he could have been more pointing to if the safety switch in the seat went bad. I do not have that problem, I am sure jumping the switch would not make the sol pull in better.
 
   / 1533 no start, problem?
  • Thread Starter
#13  
After what 1250Man posted that got me thinking (thanks 1250Man)... It must be the sol, reason, because I have "hold" power in the sol, but I do "not" have pull power in the sol (that is why I can push it in then the sol will hold the rod that last 1/32"). I know that the 2 power wires do go into each other in the wire harness, so there isn't anything else in the system for pull power.

How much dose a solenoid cost, just a round about so I don't get sticker shock when I ask the dealer... I just don't want to take this tractor in for this, what a pain it will be getting on/off the trailer. Lucky for me the FEL isn't on, but I guess I could just pull the solenoid and start it to load it on the trailer, um I'm sure the dealer will just love that.
 
   / 1533 no start, problem? #14  
Yes its probably the solenoid, I have seen a few of those go bad. By the sounds of it your tractor is about 2 years old, which is when most of those failed. Never seen a bad one make it past about 50 hrs though.
 
   / 1533 no start, problem?
  • Thread Starter
#15  
MFRED said:
Yes its probably the solenoid, I have seen a few of those go bad. By the sounds of it your tractor is about 2 years old, which is when most of those failed. Never seen a bad one make it past about 50 hrs though.

Thanks... Do you have a round about cost?
 
   / 1533 no start, problem? #16  
Yes, it was the injector pump that I was referring to in the other post. The fuel shut off solenoid wiring was what I wanted you to check. Looks like you have already checked it now.
To manually shut off the pump you have to push in on the shaft through the solenoid. But, the shaft is pushed in the pump until it is energized then it pulls out so that the tractor starts. Like a safety. (I think that is the way this one works) If it doesn't pull out when the key is turned on, the solenoid is out and needs to be replaced. I can look at the shop manual to see if it states it that way. I really think is your problem.
Sorry it took so long to get back to you. I have been gone all day. Good luck with it.
 
   / 1533 no start, problem?
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Thanks Jerry... With this unit no way to do it manually, it is completely sealed... When you think of it, kind of is a bad design to a point. If it happen to fail in the run position, it wouldn't be easy to kill the engine, you would have to choke the fuel, air to stop the engine or pull the solenoid on a hot running engine.

Yes it doesn't move at all when turning the key, but if I push it in it will hold, so like I said above I have hold, but no pull back.

I was hoping someone had a cost on this thing, but i guess I'll find out last tomorrow. If it is over $50, then I'll just load it on the trailer and let them fix it on warranty, grrrr I'm sure they will have for days and my grass is getting long, lol.
 
   / 1533 no start, problem? #18  
The two previous series had a shaft that could be pushed under a rubber boot. Does your 1533 not have this?
 
   / 1533 no start, problem?
  • Thread Starter
#19  
As far as I could tell, no... The rubber boot that is over it is more of a hard plastic cover (well I guess it could be very hard rubber), there is nothing showing a way to push in on it, nothing is showing that could pass that cover.

EDIT... When I take it off again, I'll put photos of it in with my others here on the site and let you know when I posted them.
 
   / 1533 no start, problem? #20  
It will only take you 5 - 10 minutes to replace the solenoid. Remove the 2 bolts, pull the solenoid straight out the back until the pin on the solemoid is fully exposed. Be careful not to damage the gasket. Reverse the procedure to install the solenois. 1100, 1200 & 1400 series had overide boot, 1500 series does not. When key is OFF, the solenoid will not let fuel pass thru. On earlier series, solenoid was energized by a capacitor for ~ 10 seconds to shut off fuel as soon as key was turned off.
 

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