1710 engine stalls, I really need your assistance

[yorT]

Howdy,
I have a mid 80’s 1710 that blew a water pump and over heated in January. I replace the water pump and thermostat, flushed the radiator and added new coolant. After those repairs the temp gauge stopped working however everything ran fine. (Do I need to replace the thermostat sensor?)

Fast forward, about two weeks ago the engine started to stall after running for a short time, maybe 30 minuets. It would restart run for about a short time unless I added strain; lifting the bucket, driving it, etc. then stall out again. I can pump the throttle and sometimes the engine would respond while it was trying to run however it will stall out.

So, I replaced the fuel filter, changed the oil and filter and replaced the hydraulic filter. It started ran perfectly for about 20 minutes so I put it away until I needed it.
Today, I put the plow and harrow on to smooth the 1 mile lane however the tractor stated to stall about 15+ minuets of run time while I was putting on the attachments. It doing the same thing; stall out, restart and stall within a minute or two. It seems like the longer I wait to restart the longer it runs and when it starts acting up it doesn’t matter how much I pump the throttle.
The fuel filter housing is 100% full the entire time so I’m guessing it’s something else?

I’m not a mechanic in anyway however I am fast learner. I have no leaks from the water pump, thermostat radiator and fuel filter areas I’ve worked on.

I’ve gone through and read all the forums and responses however they bounce all over where to start and what to do; clean fuel tank, clean injectors, fuel pumps, etc.

Where do I start to eliminate possibilities until I find them problem? Do I need to replace the thermostat sensor, is that what’s causing the issue?

ANY HELP AND ADVICE IS APPRECIATED

Thanks
Troy

I can add photos, video, answer any questions to help resolve this issue

 

[dirttoys]

In general, make sure you have fuel flow. Havent piddled with a ford for a while...... remove sediment bowl and with petcock on make sure you have full flow. Usually it is in the tank or the lines just after. Failing that, post back and I will swing again, smarter others will weigh in as well.

Best,

ed

 

[JC-jetro]

Howdy,
I have a mid 80’s 1710 that blew a water pump and over heated in January. I replace the water pump and thermostat, flushed the radiator and added new coolant. After those repairs the temp gauge stopped working however everything ran fine. (Do I need to replace the thermostat sensor?)

Fast forward, about two weeks ago the engine started to stall after running for a short time, maybe 30 minuets. It would restart run for about a short time unless I added strain; lifting the bucket, driving it, etc. then stall out again. I can pump the throttle and sometimes the engine would respond while it was trying to run however it will stall out.

So, I replaced the fuel filter, changed the oil and filter and replaced the hydraulic filter. It started ran perfectly for about 20 minutes so I put it away until I needed it.
Today, I put the plow and harrow on to smooth the 1 mile lane however the tractor stated to stall about 15+ minuets of run time while I was putting on the attachments. It doing the same thing; stall out, restart and stall within a minute or two. It seems like the longer I wait to restart the longer it runs and when it starts acting up it doesn’t matter how much I pump the throttle.
The fuel filter housing is 100% full the entire time so I’m guessing it’s something else?

I’m not a mechanic in anyway however I am fast learner. I have no leaks from the water pump, thermostat radiator and fuel filter areas I’ve worked on.

I’ve gone through and read all the forums and responses however they bounce all over where to start and what to do; clean fuel tank, clean injectors, fuel pumps, etc.

Where do I start to eliminate possibilities until I find them problem? Do I need to replace the thermostat sensor, is that what’s causing the issue?

ANY HELP AND ADVICE IS APPRECIATED

Thanks
Troy

I can add photos, video, answer any questions to help resolve this issue

Your fuel tank s atmospherically vented. It might be as simple as fuel cap air relief passage is plugged. Simply try to keep the fuel cap a bit lose to allow air in so fuel tank would be vented and injector pump is not fighting against the vacuum. just use a piece of duct tape to make sure not to lose a cap going over bumpy terrain.When the tractor is off is eventually loses the vacuum in the tank, starts well till and the same cycle repeats.

JC,

 

[5030]

What the hell is a 1710?

 

[yorT]

Your fuel tank s atmospherically vented. It might be as simple as fuel cap air relief passage is plugged. Simply try to keep the fuel cap a bit lose to allow air in so fuel tank would be vented and injector pump is not fighting against the vacuum. just use a piece of duct tape to make sure not to lose a cap going over bumpy terrain.When the tractor is off is eventually loses the vacuum in the tank, starts well till and the same cycle repeats.

JC,

JC-
I tried that one, loosening the cap and even taking it off while I was in a idle going into a stall…. no luck. I wish it was that easy, thanks for the input though

 

[yorT]

In general, make sure you have fuel flow. Havent piddled with a ford for a while...... remove sediment bowl and with petcock on make sure you have full flow. Usually it is in the tank or the lines just after. Failing that, post back and I will swing again, smarter others will weigh in as well.

Best,

ed

Thanks Dirttoys-
I’ll take the tank off, drain and clean it and most likely replace the lines and clean the on/off valve mechanism. I’ll let you know how that goes in a couple of days.
Thanks for the advice

 

[yorT]

What the hell is a 1710?

A small tractor; Ford 1710 mid 80’s

 

[neverfailyou]

A small tractor; Ford 1710 mid 80’s

I have a 1990’s Ford 1720. There were a series of tractors 15xx/17xx/19xx. Minimal-to-no electronics…I’ve learned a lot about diesels and small tractors by wrenching on mine as a first tractor.

 

[dirttoys]

Thanks Dirttoys-
I’ll take the tank off, drain and clean it and most likely replace the lines and clean the on/off valve mechanism. I’ll let you know how that goes in a couple of days.
Thanks for the advice

Of course, if tank removal is easy, certainly not a bad idea, but not required.

Generally there is a glass sediment bowl after the tank and prior to the filter. Just take the bowl off, and turn on the fuel, you should get "full stream" flow, if not issue is in the tank or petcock, if you do then we move to the input for the injector and try again. Odds are it is not going to be a big deal, that said I hate to overheat stuff.

The purpose of the bowl is to catch crap, and water. If you look at the bowl, and it has water you can see it stratified in the bottom. If the bowl gets more water than it can stand, it will start to pass it up to the filter. Check em every time you fuel up, and dump it every few months or 50 hours.

Please keep us in the loop, lots of times folks get fixed and don't give us the rest of the story............

Best,

ed

 

[JC-jetro]

JC-
I tried that one, loosening the cap and even taking it off while I was in a idle going into a stall…. no luck. I wish it was that easy, thanks for the input though

Ok. That's good. I would turn off the fuel valve, remove the short hose at the filter bowl assembly, get a small jar under the end of rubber hose and open the fuel valve. See if you get good steady stream of fuel. On my 1700, I was low on fuel, the inlet in the tank sits 1/8 higher than the tank floor keep settled derbies at the bottom. I was on a bumpy ground on my pace and that kind of stirred up the sediment and it got sucked in to the fuel out let and plugged it. I ended up draining the tank, and shop vacuuming the floor of the tank and blowing air back ward thru the valve to open up the fuel passage. In 15 years I have done it only once.

JC,

 

[Fxfymn413]

I have had this happen a couple of times and it was an obstruction in the tank that was too large to pass through the line to the filter. As was stated earlier your best option will be to either remove and clean the tank or drain it and use a vacuum or turkey baster with a piece of hose attached to it to get the crud out of the tank. You should blow air through the line from the filter to the tank as well.

 

[yorT]

I have had this happen a couple of times and it was an obstruction in the tank that was too large to pass through the line to the filter. As was stated earlier your best option will be to either remove and clean the tank or drain it and use a vacuum or turkey baster with a piece of hose attached to it to get the crud out of the tank. You should blow air through the line from the filter to the tank as well.

Good morning FX
Thanks for the information and the idea of using air to blow and clear lines. Most likely, I will replace the fuel line from the filter to the tank because it looks like it an original part with some fraying of the outside protective wrap.
Either way, I will appreciate your feedback and will update this post once Ive completed this task.

Make it a great day
Troy

 

[yorT]

I have a 1990’s Ford 1720. There were a series of tractors 15xx/17xx/19xx. Minimal-to-no electronics…I’ve learned a lot about diesels and small tractors by wrenching on mine as a first tractor.

Right with Nevrfail….. I’ve learned a lot and continue learning every time I get to work on it.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Howdy,
I have a mid 80’s 1710 that blew a water pump and over heated in January. I replace the water pump and thermostat, flushed the radiator and added new coolant. After those repairs the temp gauge stopped working however everything ran fine. (Do I need to replace the thermostat sensor?)

Fast forward, about two weeks ago the engine started to stall after running for a short time, maybe 30 minuets. It would restart run for about a short time unless I added strain; lifting the bucket, driving it, etc. then stall out again. I can pump the throttle and sometimes the engine would respond while it was trying to run however it will stall out.

So, I replaced the fuel filter, changed the oil and filter and replaced the hydraulic filter. It started ran perfectly for about 20 minutes so I put it away until I needed it.
Today, I put the plow and harrow on to smooth the 1 mile lane however the tractor stated to stall about 15+ minuets of run time while I was putting on the attachments. It doing the same thing; stall out, restart and stall within a minute or two. It seems like the longer I wait to restart the longer it runs and when it starts acting up it doesn’t matter how much I pump the throttle.
The fuel filter housing is 100% full the entire time so I’m guessing it’s something else?

I’m not a mechanic in anyway however I am fast learner. I have no leaks from the water pump, thermostat radiator and fuel filter areas I’ve worked on.

I’ve gone through and read all the forums and responses however they bounce all over where to start and what to do; clean fuel tank, clean injectors, fuel pumps, etc.

Where do I start to eliminate possibilities until I find them problem? Do I need to replace the thermostat sensor, is that what’s causing the issue?

ANY HELP AND ADVICE IS APPRECIATED

Thanks
Troy

I can add photos, video, answer any questions to help resolve this issue

It sounds like restricted fuel flow. Most of the time, the problem is at the tank outlet, in the line from the outlet to the filter, in the passages of the filter head or the filter itself. If you have a lift pump, it could be failed or it may have an internal screen that is plugged.

If it were my tractor, I would start at the fuel filter out and work backwards toward the tank. In an un-restricted fuel delivery system, you should have full fuel flow at the filter outlet. If it dribbles or is intermittent, change the filter (you all ready did that) and if you get no relief, remove the filter head and find a way to clear the internal passages. Use compressed air, a small wire, etc. If the line between the filter and the tank and tank valve are blocked again try compressed air or a piece of wire. Blowing backward into the tank will be a temporary fix because if you have debris in the tank it will still be there to cause the problem again. So you will have to drain and clean the tank.
Good luck and tell us what you find.

 

[dodge man]

I don’t want to be doom and gloom, but you said it overheated. How bad? Bad enough to cause engine damage.

 

[Tx Jim]

I don’t want to be doom and gloom, but you said it overheated. How bad? Bad enough to cause engine damage.

If engine will operate 15-20 minutes without pushing coolant out of radiator overflow tube I doubt engine is damaged from getting over heated. My guess is fuel flow from tank to inj pump is restricted. A couple of bursts of compressed air blown into fuel supply line that is attached to inj pump that goes to fuel tank will probably temporarily solve the fuel problem.

 

[yorT]

To all those that assisted THANK YOU !!!
I removed the gas tank, shutoff valve and fuel hose to the fuel filter and what did I find ……. THE CULPRIT

Taking the tank off, cleaning it and cleaning the fuel valve hose was way easier than expected. Overall it took me about 2½ hours to remove, clean and reassemble. A quick bleed of the system and prime;was up and running.

The tractor sounds better, more responsive at the throttle and feels more powerful since it’s getting the fuel it needs.

Thanks again!!!

Cheers,
Troy

no wonder it was stalling and starving for fuel

 

[Tx Jim]

What the hell is a 1710?

 

[JC-jetro]

To all those that assisted THANK YOU !!!
I removed the gas tank, shutoff valve and fuel hose to the fuel filter and what did I find ……. THE CULPRIT

Taking the tank off, cleaning it and cleaning the fuel valve hose was way easier than expected. Overall it took me about 2½ hours to remove, clean and reassemble. A quick bleed of the system and prime;was up and running.

The tractor sounds better, more responsive at the throttle and feels more powerful since it’s getting the fuel it needs.

Thanks again!!!

Cheers,
Troy

no wonder it was stalling and starving for fuel View attachment 738173

Nice ,Like I suspected. probbaly you are good for another 10-15 years. I only did it once in 15 years.

 

[Tx Jim]

Congratulations for your repair. From the the looks of that clog I'll advise you to add a fuel conditioner that contains Biocide. Biocide will kill any fungus if present in fuel tank.