1850 Hydraulic pressure pulsates - any theories for cause?

[woodlandfarms]

Also, if it were me I would replace the L101 L connector (what the hose screws into and what goes into the tender). I do not think this is your issue as it just came up but worth a look.

 

[cqaigy2]

Boy, it's a good thing you have your PT diagrams handy there in Argentina.:thumbsup:

 

[ponytug]

Mike,

Thanks for the photo. Unless 101 is on skew-wiff (I can't tell if it is a camera angle, or real), the hoses look OK in the photo and there is no sign of leaking that I can see, so I wouldn't rush to replace hoses, until you know that you need to. (and then it is a rush. ) I'm impressed your hoses still have markings on them. Mine have faded out, so I have to go back to the original photos to find the markings.

With respect to replacing the fitting, unless you are really lucky, I doubt that you will have enough slack in the hose to cut a fitting off, shorten the hose, and be able to put a replacement on the end. I have probably only a couple of hoses on my PT that have enough slack that they could be shortened.

The simplest route to a new hose would be to ask PT to send you the hose- probably not the cheapest solution, but your time is worth something. If you also get a male-male barrel connector, you can attach the new hose to the old hose and pull it through, which will simplify the installation. I'm sure that in your area (or online) there will be some folks that can make hoses, but...you have to know exactly what the fitting is. There are a slew of different connectors, and some almost fit, or worse actually thread on but don't seal (due to differences in face angles and seals). If you go the route of locally replacing the hose, I would pull the old hose out, with a strong rope attached to it at the far end. Then, when you are done removing the hose, you will have a rope along the existing hose path. You can take the old hose to the shop to match fittings and get it replaced. With the new hose, you can attach it to the existing rope and pull it back through.

I'm sure that you would do it anyway, but don't forget to keep all the ends sealed when you pull the hose to keep dirt out. Good shops will blow sponge "pigs" through your new hose to ensure that the hose is clean and particle free.

As Terry says, "Think open heart surgery" for cleanliness.

All the best,

Peter

 

[MikeOConnor]

Wow! this stuff is great!! Thanks!

Yep, I'm planning to replace the two L101 L connectors for sure, they're really bent. I'm not sure what's going to happen when I pull the hoses off. I have the fear that they're stripped out. But they don't leak which is indeed encouraging.

It's clear that fixing or replacing the hose is gonna bump this job up a whole huge amount. At that point, the PT probably gets put on a trailer and heads over to my local implement-repair shop where they've got all kinds of tools available.

But those diagrams are fantastic!

 

[MikeOConnor]

I'm printing out those diagrams. Astounding. I wish I'd had these 10 years ago. I am learning a LOT about how the PT is put together.

 

[woodlandfarms]

So as you notice this is for 2003. Not sure your year but it is a good jumping off point.

I keep the Diagrams on my laptop, which is with me when I travel.

Please note the hose list. You can get your hose made locally and save some cash.

 

[MikeOConnor]

The diagrams are great. I've realized that they must have added the charging valve for the brake accumulator some time after the 1996 publication date of the drawings. Where did you get the drawings? From Powertrac? I wonder if they'd send me an updated set.

I'm really hopeful that the brake tender is the cause of my troubles. I've replaced that charging valve several times for blown seals -- I'm thinking that the cause of the high pressure that *causes* the seals to blow may be a bad brake tender valve. That would be completely nifty.

The hose lists are also really helpful -- you're right, they look to be pretty easy to get locally if I need them.

I talked to Terry today and at the end I asked him how long 'til he retires. He laughed and said 10 years. I told him that there are a lot of folks who will be happy to hear that, but to let us know 'cause we want to throw him a party when he does. I get the sense he doesn't often hear how much we appreciate him. Just might consider throwing that into the conversation the next time you talk to him.

Thanks again.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Terry is pretty great. I have his home number, he tells me to call whenever I am jammed up on the weekend.

as for the diagrams, I think it was someone on this group, maybe a bygone member. No, you will not find updated schematics, at leas the last time I asked they did not have any.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Oh, and the charging valve has been a problem for me as well. I now have 3 major unresolved issues with my PT. First is the electrical short. Have to fix. Second is when the tractor stalls nose downon a steep slope and hot, it won't catch when restarting. I think it has to do with oil sensor but.... Finally when it is cold my steering/lift circuit will not work. I start the engine, then turn it off, then the circuit works. Sticky bypass valve is my thought but it all is related to the charging valve.

 

[J_J]

Mike, i have a bunch of stuff... Lemme see if I can upload it from Buenos Aires. If not, hit me with your private email...

PDF #6 was not in the list.

What circuit did it illustrate.