1963 Ford 2000 Electrical Problem - Help..!!

[Beavonrhebayou]

Hi Y'all,

I have a 1963 Ford 2000 gasser, converted to 12V w/electronic ignition. It's been running pretty good, but a day or so ago, I went out to start it, and nothing...an occasional click from the solenoid, as I wiggled different wires or the battery ground. It seems as if I have a grounding issue somewhere, and I'm trying to figure it out...any help would be much appreciated.

OK, here is what I've found so far.

1. Key off - I have 12.63V from the battery, to the hot side of the key to the top post of the solenoid, to the alternator, no voltage to the switched side of the key or downstream.
2. If I test the unconnected lead from the switched side of the key, with the key on, I show 12.63V
3. If I connect the switched side of the key to the post that connects it to the terminal on the solenoid (I believe the S terminal), with everything else connected, and I turn the key to ON, the solenoid may or may not click, and nothing happens when I depress the starter button, but it seems like the voltage in the system disappears from my multimeter
4. HOWEVER, for a while, if I switched the key on, the starter would automatically start cranking, and the tractor would start, but the starter would continue running until the key was switched off. I disassembled the wires, and when I put it back together, it wasn't doing that anymore.
5. Just before I came inside, I connected just the switched side from the key and the lead to the S terminal, left off the lead from the coil, switched on the key, and for a while had 12.63V to the top post, to the S terminal, to the bottom post, and to the starter, but no cranking at all, and depressing the starter button didn't do anything.
6. I know the starter spins, and cranks the engine just fine.
7. The tractor doesn't have any lights or extra stuff hooked up

Somewhere I must have something grounding or shorting, but I'm just not sure where.

It does have some fresh parts, including a brand new ignition switch, and a new solenoid (I've tried two different new ones, one from NAPA, and one from TSC). The battery cables are pretty tired, and I do have some new ones, but I decided that since I was getting voltage, I might be able to hold off replacing those right now.

Thanks in advance for any help. I really appreciate it..!!

Joel in Louisiana

Please give me some ideas on what to try and where to look.

 

[WranglerX]

Real test of "if its getting voltage" is check the cable connection at starter, It should register voltage with key on and starter button presses..... If not move back to output terminal (starter side) of solenoid, if not go to battery side of solenoid, got voltage if yes solenoid in not operating...

If solenoid in not operating its either bad (not likely with two different tries) and start tracing back circuit that activates solenoid... Basically back to push button or ignition switch or solenoid is not properly grounded...

The key to trouble shooting here is if you don't have it where you expect it to be, trace back to each connection in orderly manner till you get to battery.... Where you find the voltage is just before the "problem".... Possible problem may be intermittent contact in ignition switch or bum starter push button... not more than 3 or 4 places where things can go wrong....

Suggest you clean all connections from battery posts to solenoid to starter on positive side and from negative post from battery to what ever "ground" connection is on engine or chassis....

When I say clean I mean use small wire brush or fine grit sandpaper or emery cloth, or scotch bright pad and protect polished surfaces with dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.... YES dielectric grease is non conductive, BUT it eliminates moisture and oxygen out of connection and prevents corrosion, the key to success here is solid MECHANICAL CONNECTION of all studs, nuts, cable terminals and such under grease..

About your battery cables, the could have internal corrosion that under no high current load appear to have voltage, but under load (high current) requirements the are failing to be conductive and thee for can't spin starter... Put the new cables on, it will eliminate the possibility of corrosion problems hidden under insulation...

Dale