that filter almost looks to be rusted out, it has had water in it for a loooong time i'd say. the hydraulics for the 3PH have prolly rusted up.
It does have some rust flaking in the upper assembly, but not too bad. The filter cleaned right up with a garden hose. It looks nearly new, now. Today I took the top end off the hoist and removed the hydro head and lift assembly and both seem perfectly fine, o-rings included. I'm beginning to wonder if the filter being clogged pretty much completely was the cause all along. The loose parts on the bottom pan didn't seem to impact the hydraulics any, which is a small miracle on its own.
You do understand that the broken bits that you showed have nothing to do with the hyd not working.
Yep, I do, and I'm doubting those parts even impacted the hydro system, as they simply set on the bottom near the filter. Either way it needs some fixing. I'll be starting on the axle removal tomorrow, as long the rain holds off. Hopefully extracting those bolt heads won't be difficult, but if they are, I'll just bring the two axles to the metal shop and weld a couple of temporary heads on them so I can really crank on them.
I just happened to fix the hydraulic lift problem on my 169D about a month ago. It actually isn't that hard to do. First thing I did was tested the hydraulic pump which came out okay. So I pulled the top housing off the transmission which houses the cylinder that lifts the hitch up and down. Pulled out the cylinder head and there was a O-ring around the cylinder head that was dimpled and shot. $4 and a trip to Kubota was all it took, they are more likely to have the right O-Ring since John Deere doesn't carry these O-rings in stock and don't carry the right size. The O-ring is critical, with a small gap in it this allows the pressure from the hydro pump to escape and just go into the transmission.
Glad you have done this fix already. Always nice to find someone with recent experience on it. I removed the piston and found the o-ring to look really healthy. I'm not exactly sure if what I see as healthy is not worn out, though. Do you happen to have the part # of the o-ring you got? I'm betting Yanmar used the same size piston. I'll bring Kubota the piston to size it just in case. For $4, it'll be the cheapest part so far.
I would have been happy too if I could have found it but my crappy photo copied manual the pics are horrible in it makes me wonder about when I need it for me.
One thing I did notice while looking for those parts is that tractor has a built in pto overrun clutch. Maybe all us models did I dont know but that is pretty neat feature not as easy to repair as an add on but doesn't make you shorten a drive shaft either for an attachment.
I have the factory service manual, so if you ever need a scanned page or three, let me know. I'm happy to help out.
I noticed the PTO overrun clutch when playing around with the PTO shaft. I thought that was what I was looking at, but doubted myself, seeing as everything about this tractor is new to me. Yaya for better than expected items! :thumbsup:
That clogged and rusted filter could be 90% of your problem. I would open it up and look around.
The filter sure was filthy! Luckily it cleaned up REALLY easily (garden hose). It looks good as new, now.
Hold On Domush. I'll scan in some pictures from the parts manual when I get home tonight & send them along. You are shortly going to be the mechanical 336D guru.
rScotty
You are awesome! Thank you! I have the thing apart quite a bit, but I have no idea what I'm getting into splitting the rear axle in two (three if you include the trans). The first issue is figuring out how to remove the rear rims, as the lugs are so tight my Ingersol air impact driver can't even budge them, which is a first for my impact. Getting into the big leagues when it comes to tools, I guess.
Tomorrow I'll also be welding a new lift dampening valve onto the height adjuster, as the current one is missing the lever (broken off). There is a roll pin hammered right next to the bolt holding the dampening valve, so I can't unscrew it or remove the roll pin, so I'll be welding a new handle while the dampener is still installed, which will be scary.
I'm excited to see those scans. The service manual doesn't open up the hydraulic assembly beyond the pump and filters or even mention the rear axle.
