1984 1710

[MikeDspain]

Thanks, I'm going to order 1 tomorrow. It can't hurt anything even if it doesn't help very much but as quick as my 3 pt drops I think it'll help.

 

[Kent B]

Thanks, I'm going to order 1 tomorrow. It can't hurt anything even if it doesn't help very much but as quick as my 3 pt drops I think it'll help.

Here is the page from the manual showing all of the parts.
I did not take the cylinder head apart. From the looks of things it didn't seem like it was necessary at the time. The six bolts(threads) that held the cylinder head on were a bit rusty so I soaked the rust off, oiled them up and reused them.

 

[Kent B]

Here is a photo of my rear wheels. One coat of POR-15 on the first one compared to one unpainted.

Getting ready to do a second coat...that is if I can find another brush. The first one is shot.

 

[Kopierguy]

Here is a photo of my rear wheels. One coat of POR-15 on the first one compared to one unpainted.

Getting ready to do a second coat...that is if I can find another brush. The first one is shot.

Por 15 is a great product. Also good for coating and sealing gas tanks. Just don't get it on hands as you will wear it for weeks. Don't ask how I know this.

 

[MikeDspain]

So I had some free time today and headed over to my nearest New Holland dealer (35 miles away) to get the piston seal and other maybe necessary gaskets. They told me the old part number had been updated and here is the new part & number SBA-052110650 (it's a rubber O ring instead of a plastic ring).

I asked twice about it since its so different from the original and he was sticking to his books upgraded part. I'll try to work on it Saturday or Sunday and see if it fits properly. I have my fingers crossed though, sure is different.

 

[Kent B]

I searched the part # sba052110650 on google and found that it is on a parts diagram for a New Holland TC35 along with some other models. TC35DA showing part(s) 45 and 46.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/new-holland-owning-operating/232602d1317954992-tc35da-3-point-lift-tc35da-lift.pdf.
I suppose that could be true. The "O" ring might be more durable than the old plastic seals that have been shown in disintegrated variations.

Your parts guy might be right but I would like to see it on paper before I am 100% convinced.
All of these old paper-back manuals don't get upgraded. I imagine you will be fine.

I do see two parts instead of just one. Looks like a ring + an "O" ring.

See if that link takes you to the page where I found it.

 

[MikeDspain]

He sold me 2 different O rings, didn't have the 3rd in stock but he said it was for the cover seal and prob not necessary. I'll see tomorrow. I'd rather have the original, I know that would have fit like it is supposed to.

 

[Kent B]

He sold me 2 different O rings, didn't have the 3rd in stock but he said it was for the cover seal and prob not necessary. I'll see tomorrow. I'd rather have the original, I know that would have fit like it is supposed to.

I know that the plastic seal is a tight fit. The piston could still be pushed by hand inside the cylinder so I don't think it will resist (as in bind up) under 2 to 3000 lbs of hydraulic pressure.
If the "O" ring is what they are using on the current model tractors it must be for a good reason. My "O" ring on the cylinder head was fine. If I had a new one I would have swapped it out anyway.
The rubber in the rings must be more resistant to the fluid...more so than the plastic.
Thanks for that info.
I had not thought about the possibility of new and improved replacements. I'll keep an open mind in case I run into a similar situation.

 

[Kent B]

On a side note:
I picked up a $25 universal temp gauge (cable and all) at TSC the other day. It says it will fit "all" liquid cooled engines. Since my old one is shot (pegged on hot) I thought I would get that back up to code. I haven't figured out how the old one comes out yet.
I don't want to take the fuel tank off to get in there. There isn't a whole lot of room for wrenches up underside. The new gauge looks to be the same size so that part should drop into the console just fine. As long as the threads on the sending unit fit I'll be good.

Hopefully I will be finishing up my wheels this weekend so I will be buying new shoes come next week. It has been raining cats and dogs here (for days) in North Fla. Not good weather for painting.

I am really grateful for this website. Thanks to everybody. :thumbsup:

Kent B.

 

[randy41]

its not too difficult to remove the fuel tank. very easy after the 3rd or 4th time. it is pretty tight back there.

 

[MikeDspain]

Well like everybody else my plastic hydraulic ring was toast.

The new rubber O-ring was a heck of a tight fit, I had to beat the piston into the cylinder. Once in there it slid pretty smoothly, so the new part number works.

The only major improvement I noticed was when I turned the tractor off the 3pt now stays up, it used to drop all the way down in less than 1 minute. I also noticed the draft control (speed regulator) might have more of a difference to it now. Overall it's still the same but I'm glad it's repaired now.

Anybody know of any other parts that need periodic replacing? And I just thought of a new question for my Ford brothers. I'm not sure of the name of the part but its the adjustable rod between the front tires (control arm maybe???). Anyways are y'all's straight or bent? Mine has several inches of bend in it and I'm thinking its bent. It's not hurting anything but I'm curious. Thanks guys

 

[Kent B]

I found a ROPS set with a canopy frame. The ROPS is factory equipment for my tractor. I had to drive a ways to pick it up but the price was dirt cheap and it paid off. Pictures coming soon.

I need to clean them up and paint before installing.
The canopy frame was a custom job but it is heavy gauge steel. I am feeling pretty lucky.
$60.00 can you believe it?



I used spray on oven cleaner, as an experiment, to clean them up. After letting it work a couple hours I hit it with the pressure washer. The next step is the wire wheel on the angle grinder followed by POR15 then top coat with Rustoleum paint.

 

[Creamer]

What a bargain! You made out! Now you have to change your signature.

 

[Kent B]

What a bargain! You made out! Now you have to change your signature.

ROPS (in progress) updated :thumbsup:

I spent more on gas just going to pick the stuff up.

Looking at the design I can say without a doubt that there is no way that I could have been able to weld up anything remotely adequate in comparison.

What I found out that I thought was interesting is there is a round slot about 1 inch in the rear axle made for the ROPS base bracket (with a corresponding lug) to fit into. I guess it could offer some additional benefit in securing the support bracket. It seems as though it is more of an aid during the assembly process.

 

[Kent B]

Can anyone think a a good reason not to install a radiator type fan in the canopy for down draft ventilation?

I figure since they are designed for 12 volts and a thin design I would be able to mount one up in the top of my ROPS canopy.
I got the idea from looking at the expensive items made to meet that specific task. It looks like something that I could do.

 

[Creamer]

A lot of air and how are you going to cage it?

 

[Kent B]

I need to clean them up and paint before installing.
The canopy frame was a custom job but it is heavy gauge steel. I am feeling pretty lucky.
$60.00 can you believe it?

View attachment 328672View attachment 328673View attachment 328674View attachment 328675View attachment 328676

With all the rain and heat here in Florida it has been taking much longer than I hoped but here is a preview for the latest work. I hope this weekend will be favorable for more progress.

 

[Kent B]

A lot of air and how are you going to cage it?

I am not sure yet. Aside from making it in the design used in the ones being manufactured and sold at $250 I will be trying to make it work. Some radiator fans are smaller than others. The one that I bought is only 16"x20" (not sure what the fan diameter is) and made for a Honda Accord.
It got high reviews on Amazon but they weren't using theirs for a tractor LOL.
I figure if it's good enough to keep a radiator cool then it might help send a breeze over my sweaty forehead.:sweatdrop:

I will be bolting it onto the steel canopy frame with at least one more cross-support.

 

[Kent B]

Update on my progress.
I have managed to complete my ROPS installation along with seat belt, canopy, fan, and lights (two front and one rear). I even managed to get a little seat time in today.
I discovered that my right brake is not functioning.
My original temp gauge Is working. I thought something was wrong with it because the needle stays on "Hot" when the switch if off.
Other improvements on the list are to put a sheet of expanded metal on the back side of the ROPS to protect me from rocks and such. A rear view mirror will help me keep me from turning my head all the time.
LED tail lights are on my wish list along with reflectors.
Horn is mounted but not hooked up yet.
Maintenance / float charger to keep the battery healthy.
Tail pipe extension to direct the exhaust pointed away from the operator.

 

[Kent B]

This is about it. Aside from making a few modifications here and there this is about as good as it is going to get.

I am going to need to build a shelter for it now because with the rops and canopy it won't fit inside any of my buildings. Tarps will have to do for now.