1993 Ford 1920 Engine Failure

[toddwulf]

We just had our 98 1920 motor rebuilt. When I pulled it out and took the head off two Pistons rings were shattered and it scored the walls. New Pistons, bored out, head decked and presently putting it back together. Make note of shim packs on injector pump. Get the shop manual. Anyone have a clutch alignment tool for this thing?

The engine sits on the rails that are the front end. Use jack stands to support the rear half and an engine hoist to hold the front half and slide the front half away from the rear.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I have aligned clutches by looking through the center hole and making sure all the circles are concentric. If you buy a rebuilt or new clutch they usually come with a plastic tool that works. Stop in at your favourite garage. They might have some plastic ones left over from other jobs that fit the splines on the clutch disc. The center pin can either be built up with bushings or taken down to size on a drill press or a lathe. Just several options.

 

[Raw Dodge]

What a shame,your story just reiterates why the oil should be checked before starting,never rely on an idiot light to alert you that your destroying your engine. I hate to be the bearer of bad news but to me it seems like the damage is done,your not likely to salvage much,you,ran it dry and kept,going,there probably,isn't much left to rebuild,the rods are likely scorched and need a new set of 4 ,I wouldn't resize them due to how hot they got,the crank is probably gone,maybe it can be ground,maybe not,forget the oil pump,maybe the cam lived,but the bearing journals on it are likely toasted. If the tractors clean Id get a rema short block if there still available,probably 4000 or so,but you'll spend that fixing yours,and no guarantees.

 

[Mr Majestic]

Update: engine has been removed and given to a reputable local engine rebuilder (one of the rod bearings spun). The cylinders are in good shape and the crank has been rewelded and reground. He's replacing a number of internal components to play it safe but is currently struggling with finding original or OEM replacement pistons and valves. My engine's stock pistons have a deep cavity molded into the crown and all the replacement pistons he's finding have flat crowns with only valve reliefs. New Holland wants $250 per piston for replacements! Anyone have a source for original pistons that are reasonably priced? For replacement valves too? The engine is a Shibaura N844L 2.0L.

Any other advice I should pay attention to during the rebuild is welcome. All the comments and private messages I've received have been useful and much appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any and all help!

 

[Raw Dodge]

If the pistons are 250 each, you may want to call around a few different NH dealers, they could probably sell you a set for 750.00, and still make money. Worst case scenario. My dealer helps me out on big ticket items like engine parts. I know how expensive individual internal parts are for the shiburu engines are, which is why I suggested a reman short block.There should be rebuild kits for these engines competitively priced.

 

[RickB]

There should be rebuild kits for these engines competitively priced.

Yes, there should be.
But I don't know if anyone at TBN has found them yet.

 

[Mr Majestic]

I have not been about to find a rebuild kit that includes the correct piston crown configuration. :thumbdown:
Anyone here have a source for a true OEM rebuild kit?

 

[RickB]

New Holland will sell you OEM parts directly from Shibaura/ISM. Shibaura engine parts are not sold in kit form other than the complete gasket kit.

 

[Camper]

Any luck getting your 1920 running again? Your story about mice hit home with me. Our 1920 with 530 hours on it sits inside a shed with a couple of zero turns and a RZR. So far a snake, mice, and some cats have tried to live in there too. Good advice on here about checking the oil and such before EVERY use.

 

[toddwulf]

Mr. Majestic, we just got our 1920 back after a complete rebuild. We had to bore out with new pistons as these can't be sleeved and the cylinder walls were badly gouged. I removed and brought to a machine shop and had them get the parts and do the work. They ordered a complete rebuild kit for it and it ran $3,327 parts and labor. Looking at the receipt the pistons were $217 each. This was for a complete rebuild with all new bearings, rods, seals, gaskets, oil pump etc...They put it back together and I remounted it back in the tractor. Then I had a local tractor mechanic put the finishing touches on it and fire it up, adjust the valves etc...Considering I paid $20K for the tractor with backhoe, and diesels aren't cheap to rebuild, I thought it a worthwhile investment.

Two jack stands and a cherry picker are all you need to remove and reinstall the motor. Didn't even need the clutch alignment tool so if you don't need to, don't take apart the clutchpacks.