1993 Ford 1920 Engine Failure

[90cummins]

Also, thanks 90cummins for the info regarding the two bolts (used to adjust the injection pump). Anyone have further insight or factory paperwork/instructions regarding properly adjusting it?
Again, thanks everyone for your help.

MM

There are a couple ways it can be done. When new the injection pump is set at the factory either before or after it is installed on the engine. In your case you need to adjust it by running the tractor and feel.
The high idle speed is easy just look at the engine specks. The fuel screw could be set if you had a pto generator then you could actually load the engine based on Kw's.
When I installed a turbo on my Ford 1720 I adjusted the fuel screw until I was happy with the power and no smoke. I used my pto generator to get a baseline before and after adjustments.
90cummins

 

[TractorTech]

Can't the engine rebuilder come out and check the vibration and balancer timing?

I agree, the engine rebuilder would be responsible for the balancer timing, if that is what is causing the vibration. I doubt very much the clutch is causing the vibration, but since you have to split it to see why it won't disengage, it won't be too much problem getting to the balancer.

 

[Mr Majestic]

I split the tractor last night and can't see anything wrong with the clutch setup. It only has 300 hours on it since new...the tractor hasn't had a lot of use! I'll dial indicate it before taking it apart to explore the plates...to see if there is anything wrong inside. I also plan to take the engine out of the frame and remove the oil pan to view the engine balancer...and check whether it's properly sync'd with the crank...as the possible source of my vibration issue. This is a lot of work I had not anticipated doing...very disappointing. :thumbdown:

 

[zombie]

If the disc was in backwards would it cause the clutch to not disengage? I don't have any tractor clutch experience, but lots of semi truck and that's what they'll do if the friction disc is installed backwards. Just a thought....

 

[Mr Majestic]

Okay, I evaluated the double-clutch and found both clutch discs were rusted to their respective clutch plate. Apparently, over the few months it took me to reassemble the tractor, moisture in the air caused the plates to rust and I wasn't aware of it. Anyway, the discs and plates are all cleaned up and that should resolve my clutch issue.

The question remaining is what is causing the engine vibration. Was it the frozen clutch discs that caused the vibration? Is it the engine balancer being out of sync as TractorTech hypothesized or is it something else? Checking the balancer requires removing the engine from the frame and removing the oil pan. I'm not sure I want to do that unless I really have to.

Anyone have a sense whether the clutch could cause the vibration or not? ...or should I continue the disassemble the engine and check the engine balancer?

Thanks in advance for your insight.

MM

 

[RickB]

Your vibration problems are not likely to be related to the clutch.

 

[barbqranch]

Can you start the engine w/o the clutch? I don't know, fortunately I have never split a tractor.

 

[Mr Majestic]

The engine came back to me completely assembled after the rebuild. Though the engine builder mostly works on car engines, I did give him the service manual as a reference. Do car engine rebuilders now to check and align engine balancers?

Though the engine starts and idles well, it vibrates when revved (no noise and missing....that I can tell). Before taking the engine out of the frame to gain access to the engine balancer just inside the oil pan, I'm wondering if it could be dirty or partially clogged injectors? I've never had to deal with that issue before so I don't know what dirty injectors feel like.

 

[rjok]

You may have a bad injector. You can check by cracking the injector line loose one at a time while it's running and and check for engine performance change. If nothing happens when anyone of them is loosened that injector/cylinder has a problem. Rick

 

[TractorTech]

The engine came back to me completely assembled after the rebuild. Though the engine builder mostly works on car engines, I did give him the service manual as a reference. Do car engine rebuilders now to check and align engine balancers?

Though the engine starts and idles well, it vibrates when revved (no noise and missing....that I can tell). Before taking the engine out of the frame to gain access to the engine balancer just inside the oil pan, I'm wondering if it could be dirty or partially clogged injectors? I've never had to deal with that issue before so I don't know what dirty injectors feel like.

The engine came back to me completely assembled after the rebuild. Though the engine builder mostly works on car engines, I did give him the service manual as a reference. Do car engine rebuilders now to check and align engine balancers?

I still lean to the balancer as injectors would cause it to miss, which could cause vibration, but at various rpm's. And you say it starts and runs well other than the vibration. Auto rebuilders don't come experience balancers of this type often, but he could have just had it slip a tooth too.
I had a 'tech' loosen the balancer on a 1910 one time without my knowledge and lied to cover it up. Another tech took the balancer off, timed it and suprise, the vibration went away! Needless to say, the first 'tech' was no longer employed due to the lie.

Since the tractor is split, remove the 4wd driveshaft if it connected to the front axle, drop the pan. If you need info on timing the balancer, send me a message.
Ted