1st report on FEL edge guard

GrayBeard · Dec 20, 2003

I've been on a "quest" eliminate the trama (scuffs) to my black top drive with the FEL.
I posted previously about poly and still may try it but...
This morning I went to the local saw mill and got a rough cut 2x4x10, oak for 3.00. The sawyer even "surfaced" it for me.
In about 45 min. I had a 46.5" piece mounted just behind the back edge of the "wear bar". The wear edge is .5" thick, so that left the oak about 1.5" below the bucket lip.
On the underside I recessed 4 - 5/16 cap screws about 1", bolting thru the bucket.
Now, off I go to see what's going to happen.
I pushed ,pulled and scraped for about an hour. (some reminants of the last snow remain and some on bone dry asphalt)
I'm pleased to report, they're no abrasions at all other than some "tan" traces from the wood. These tan marks rub off with your foot.
I checked the wear on the 2x4 and saw little or none.
Understand, in a real plowing situation I don't know how performance will be affected with the "leading" edge 1.5" above the road; but I'll find out.
GrayBeard

NY_Yankees_Fan · Dec 20, 2003

Gray,

I bolted a 2 x4 on both sides of the FEL worked great, here is a link to some pictures

link

JDgreen227 · Dec 20, 2003

Great idea to use wood for that purpose. I have an older model JD 318 with the factory 54 inch front blade and right after we had our driveway paved I got a truck mudflap from TSC and cut it in half the long way. Folding the halves into a U-shape and bolting them to the blade bottom made a great way to keep from scraping the asphalt. But never WOOD have thought of your idea. I have a lot of oak pallet lumber and will have to give it a try.

kensfarm · Dec 22, 2003

When I was looking at the compact implement magazine the other evening.. on one page they showed different blades for snow removal.. some looked like regular snow blades.. but a few looked similiar to an FEL or Box type blade.. and they had runners welded to the bottoms so the edge wouldn't dig in. I was going to try something similiar to see if I could keep the FEL & 3pt blade from digging up the rocks on the driveway during snow removal.. the wood runners are cheap & easy on & off.. looks good!

TresCrows · Dec 22, 2003

This is what I recently did to my rear blade after seeing the damage done to my neighbors concrete drive when it was plowed with a boxblade /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif. Fortunaetly the damage is minor and I think the scratches will probably weather away, I hope. J

TresCrows · Dec 22, 2003

Another view of the high desity polyethelyne blade. J

kensfarm · Dec 22, 2003

Kinda like putting on a dull edge.. where did you get the materials from.. did you have to remove the cutting edge before attaching? Def. gives me good ideas.. has anyone made a rake type replacement edge for a 3pt rear blade?

I just bought this Woods 3pt rear blade from the farmer up the street.. it has a replaceable cutting edge(needs a new one).. but the one on there might be reversible.. anyone know? I was pretty happy to get it for $250.

TresCrows · Dec 23, 2003

I got the high density polyethelene plastic from a surplus store locally. My blade is a cheapo model. I bought it strictly for pushing snow a few years ago. It does not have a removable or replaceable blade. The blade itself, I think you can see, is a piece of square edged steel. I have used it for some grading and it did Ok but I use my nice Kubota boxblade for all those sorts of jobs. My idea with the plastic edge is to "squeeje" the snow and ice from concrete and paved areas. Over my gravel areas I float the blade about 1/2 inch above the gravel using the PC. I need next to make a skid shoe type device so I don't have to jocky the PC so much while plowing. I intend to plow in reverse with the blade still mounted as seen in the pics--not flipped around. It worked very well that way last time and I think will do great with the new plastic edge. I have the chamfered edge on the back side because as I said, I plow in reverse and I think the chamfered edge will reduce gouging of my gravel drive areas. We will see /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. J

GrayBeard · Dec 23, 2003

Looks good.
In my case the surface is asphalt. The "scuffs" referred to are exposed aggregate. They'll not weather away but I haven't sealed the road yet.
The oak is just experimental at this point. The ultra hi density poly was going to be about 70.00 + ship.and I got 2 oak "runners" for 3.00.
I'm going to fab. a plow for the bucket and will use a "soft" edge but until then, this appears to be much better.
The exposed edge did a good job in the snow. 'Not sure what will happen with the front edge raised a little.
GrayBeard

TresCrows · Dec 23, 2003

At the Yard Store (famous surplus outlet in Wichita) I found the pieces I used for one dollar per pound, total cost under seven dollars. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif. Just never know what kinda junk you can find at the Yard Store. I hope mine will work well on asphalt as the neighbor at the end of the road has an asphalt drive and last snow she asked me to scrap it but I was afraid to.
I think your wood idea is grande, I was knot ( /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif) knocking it.
No snow in the forcast---rats. J