2 bottom plow

   / 2 bottom plow #11  
So what does determine how deep you need to plow? Crop type, soil type, wet / dry, other? Some combination of all of the above?



Surface to rough for what? If the old-timers say you never need a plow bigger than 12" then under what circumstance would you want to use something bigger?

I'm new to this. Just trying to figure it all out. :confused:


In most cases, depth of top soil has more to do with desired plowing depth than anything else. That, along with personal preference....

Too rough to stay on the tractor seat when discing....:eek:

Bigger (wider) plows are used when soil conditions allow deeper plowing OR to get the most plow a tractor can handle. Back in the late 70's, plows became readily available that had hydraulic width of cut adjustments. Some would plow as wide as 20" or 22". They were VERY popular in areas where top soil is deep ( US plains states as an example) They also left a rougher surface than smaller plows. That wasn't desirable once upon a time, but is now considered the best way to reduce soil erosion. Plow 22" wide and you just about have to plow deep.....and that only works in certain conditions. Plow 11" deep here and you are into rock. I've seen areas of Illinois where top soil is several feet deep. They can sink a plow as far as it'll go and not hit clay/slate/rock/poor soil/ect....


As mentioned, moldboard plows work BEST at a depth of 1/2 their width. That hasn't changed much over the years. Performance drops of fast when you go deeper. Performance can suffer, but not nearly as bad if you plow shallower than that rule of thumb.
 
   / 2 bottom plow #12  
I believe that farming is marginal at best and plowing any deeper than absolutely necessary is a waste of time, fuel and machinery maintenance.

I suppose in EXTREME cases plowing way too deep would result in the top soil being turned under and basically becoming buried.
With several inches of sub soil (sand ?) on top there are probably many crops that just wouldn't grow.
Net result; ruined field at the cost of a lot of wasted time, power, wear and tear on equipment.
Then find something that will grow in sand in your climate, turn it under each year until you rebuild the field, long time, expensive lesson.
 
   / 2 bottom plow #13  
Another consideration is larger tractors able to pull wider bottoms which in turn are easier to build and have less parts to maintain.

Say a 10 bottom plough with 22 in. bottoms would require approximately 18 12 inch bottoms to replace it. That means eight more, ala bight lighter, beams and trips and all that good stuff that goes with it. Lots more machined parts and more to assemble. The larger tractors also allowed for faster ploughing speed so the furrow would turn over. The times they did change and some fellows bought large tractors and large ploughs.:D

There are ploughs designed to go deep. Some will even be able to move the topsoil over, turn the deep furrow and then replace the topsoil back on top. For the use of these plough proper soil testing is required before any work is done.:D
 
   / 2 bottom plow #14  
Anyway.....Joed3320, to answer your original post, I'm not sure why we're venturing off on a tangent about 10 bottom X 22" plows for a 32hp machine, but that tractor would be able to handle most any size single bottom, and probably a 2 X12" plow in most all conditions. Any more than that will depend on soil type and to a degree, tire type.
 
   / 2 bottom plow #15  
I can pull a 2x14 with a 4WD Ford 1710. Sometimes a bit of a challenge in sod, sometimes not. I use my plow and then my disc prior to tilling...makes it easier and faster than having to till he same ground more than once or twice.
 
   / 2 bottom plow #16  
to answer your original post, I'm not sure why we're venturing off on a tangent about 10 bottom X 22" plows

Maybe it brings some clarity to ploughing depth!:D
 
   / 2 bottom plow #17  
Or more likely, just to be the horses arse we've all grown so accustom to......since 10X22" plows have ABSOLUTELY no relevence in this discussion.
 
   / 2 bottom plow #18  
I have a 3240 cab (32hp) and can pull a 2-14 plow with no problem. I bought a ford dearborn plow on ebay for $200 and let me tell you it is a heck of a plow and does a wonderful job. You just have to make sure it is set up right and then you wont have any problems pulling it.

Oh yea one last thing, for a 32hp tractor to pull that plow you must have 4wd or filled tires. I have 4wd and can pull the plow with out filled tires (r4 ind tires) but my tractor has a weight of 3900 lbs because of the cab. The best will be 4wd plus filled tires then you will have the best pulling capacity.
 
   / 2 bottom plow #19  
I have a 3240 cab (32hp) and can pull a 2-14 plow with no problem. I bought a ford dearborn plow on ebay for $200 and let me tell you it is a heck of a plow and does a wonderful job. You just have to make sure it is set up right and then you wont have any problems pulling it.

Oh yea one last thing, for a 32hp tractor to pull that plow you must have 4wd or filled tires. I have 4wd and can pull the plow with out filled tires (r4 ind tires) but my tractor has a weight of 3900 lbs because of the cab. The best will be 4wd plus filled tires then you will have the best pulling capacity.

I grew up plowing with dads Ferguson F40. It was (is?) 32hp, gas, 2wd, and weighed in @ approx. 4100lbs. It pulled a 2X14" mounted plow quite well, even in out hard clay ground. Weight as it relates to traction play an important role. In the instance of this old Ferguson, it's draft control system played an equally important role. As you mention, having a plow adjusted correctly is probably the MOST important factor. Yet another consideration is the condition of the moldboards.....A scoured plow pulls MUCH easier than a rusted, pitted one.
 
   / 2 bottom plow #20  
I grew up plowing with dads Ferguson F40. It was (is?) 32hp, gas, 2wd, and weighed in @ approx. 4100lbs. It pulled a 2X14" mounted plow quite well, even in out hard clay ground. Weight as it relates to traction play an important role. In the instance of this old Ferguson, it's draft control system played an equally important role. As you mention, having a plow adjusted correctly is probably the MOST important factor. Yet another consideration is the condition of the moldboards.....A scoured plow pulls MUCH easier than a rusted, pitted one.


Did you have filled tires? Did you have any wheel weights? Agreed and very good point, a sharp clean plow does require less effort to pull.
 
 

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