joed3320
Member
How do I find a used plow for my 3320 in Vermont I watch Craigs list.Not sure if I need one with a cutting disc before the plow,12"or14"?
2 bottom plow
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BobG_in_VA
Veteran Member
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- Mahindra 6000 MWFD, 2 1950's Farmalls, 1974 Farmall 140, 1967 Mf 135Delux
Welcome guys....suggest you fill out your personal profile...ie. where are you, what type of tractor you will be using, etc. I've got a couple plows here in VA that maybe available, a one bottom Ferg and and a 2 bottom 10-8 Dearborn that I re-did...but not knowing where you are etc. leaves a lot to the imagination...BobG in VA
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
...Had a grandson tell me once I was a "historical artifact"....
Here we go....As a general rule, MOST plows are designed to plow @ a depth of 1/2 their width (+ or - 1"). (ie. 12" plows @ 6" deep, with exceptions, 5" to 7" --- A 14" plow @ 7", range from 6" to 8" ---- 16" plows @ 8" deep ranging from 7" to 9") With smaller tractors (hp & weight/available traction) tailoring a plow to the tractor can be critical. It's very easy to get "too much plow".
Plow much deeper than a specific plow is designed for and sod/plowed strip tends not to want to roll completely over. To a certain extent, wider plows don't suffer as much from not plowing as deep as they are intended, with-in reason of course.
Now, a typical 2 X 12" plow will be moving dirt 24" wide and 6" deep. A 2 X 14" plow will be moving dirt 28" wide and 7" deep. (144 sq in vs 196) Also worth considering, 3 X12" plows cut 216 sq in as opposed to a 2 X 16" plow moving 256 sq in.....so THREE bottoms moves less dirt than TWO in that case. Throw in for good measure the fact that OFTEN, the deeper you plow, the harder the soil, the harder the plow pulls. In the end, 12" plows pull easier in most conditions. You just don't get the depth with them.
12" plows roll a smaller slice of dirt/sod. Some old timeres used to say you shouldn't turn sod with a plow any bigger than 12". Bigger plows leave the surface too rough....Can't say as I always buy into that theory, but, can't argue with the old timers (although sons and grandsons often do....)
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
Watch Craigslist, EBAY, local newspaper classifieds, and internet tractor forum classifieds as starters. Watch for consignment sales and estate auctions too. Single bottom mounted plows are fairly scarce in the used market. 2-bottom are fairly common. 3-bottom plows can often be had for LESS than a 2-bottom (based on demand) and can EASILY be reduced to a 2-bottom by simply removing un-needed parts.
It's a long standing arguement about the need for coulters on a plow ("as you refer to them as "cutting disc".) I won't own a plow WITHOUT. Plow in corn stalks or any significant surface crop residue and you'll understand why they're on a plow. I've always though they help considerably when plowing sod.
Plow width is determined by several factors. How much plow can your tractor pull? (HP and traction????) How deep do you need to plow? (You shouldn't try to plow 9" deep with a 12" plow) Soil conditions have a great deal to do with plow selection. Someone more familiar with your tractor and your local soil conditions could probably best advise you in that regard.
Thanks for the good info.
flusher
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I found this vintage 2-14 John Deere on craigslist. Cut a deal at $250.
It's a heavy dude. I use it with my 2008 Mahindra 5525 (54 hp engine, 45 hp pto). I haven't tried it on my 1964 Massey Ferguson 135 diesel (45 hp engine, 37 hp pto) but with ag tires that should be enough hp to pull it.
Get one with coulters (the cutting discs). If you need them, you have them.
So what does determine how deep you need to plow? Crop type, soil type, wet / dry, other? Some combination of all of the above?
Surface to rough for what? If the old-timers say you never need a plow bigger than 12" then under what circumstance would you want to use something bigger?
I'm new to this. Just trying to figure it all out.
Egon
Epic Contributor
With the advent of new larger plows The depth considerations of the past may no longer apply. Would one want to plough 11 inches deep with a plow that has 22 in. wide cutting width.
Flatheadyoungin
Veteran Member
good thread.......two rookie questions....you've answered my other questions...
how do you tell that the plow points are worn out? i've looked at every plow i have come across the last year and some are long and narrow and some are flattened....
how do you know if you can or can't get parts for it? does places like tsc carry some stuff.....is most stuff universal?
thanks for all the help....i've been looking too....
how do you tell that the plow points are worn out? i've looked at every plow i have come across the last year and some are long and narrow and some are flattened....
how do you know if you can or can't get parts for it? does places like tsc carry some stuff.....is most stuff universal?
thanks for all the help....i've been looking too....
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
So what does determine how deep you need to plow? Crop type, soil type, wet / dry, other? Some combination of all of the above?
Surface to rough for what? If the old-timers say you never need a plow bigger than 12" then under what circumstance would you want to use something bigger?
I'm new to this. Just trying to figure it all out.
In most cases, depth of top soil has more to do with desired plowing depth than anything else. That, along with personal preference....
Too rough to stay on the tractor seat when discing....
Bigger (wider) plows are used when soil conditions allow deeper plowing OR to get the most plow a tractor can handle. Back in the late 70's, plows became readily available that had hydraulic width of cut adjustments. Some would plow as wide as 20" or 22". They were VERY popular in areas where top soil is deep ( US plains states as an example) They also left a rougher surface than smaller plows. That wasn't desirable once upon a time, but is now considered the best way to reduce soil erosion. Plow 22" wide and you just about have to plow deep.....and that only works in certain conditions. Plow 11" deep here and you are into rock. I've seen areas of Illinois where top soil is several feet deep. They can sink a plow as far as it'll go and not hit clay/slate/rock/poor soil/ect....
As mentioned, moldboard plows work BEST at a depth of 1/2 their width. That hasn't changed much over the years. Performance drops of fast when you go deeper. Performance can suffer, but not nearly as bad if you plow shallower than that rule of thumb.
I believe that farming is marginal at best and plowing any deeper than absolutely necessary is a waste of time, fuel and machinery maintenance.
I suppose in EXTREME cases plowing way too deep would result in the top soil being turned under and basically becoming buried.
With several inches of sub soil (sand ?) on top there are probably many crops that just wouldn't grow.
Net result; ruined field at the cost of a lot of wasted time, power, wear and tear on equipment.
Then find something that will grow in sand in your climate, turn it under each year until you rebuild the field, long time, expensive lesson.
I suppose in EXTREME cases plowing way too deep would result in the top soil being turned under and basically becoming buried.
With several inches of sub soil (sand ?) on top there are probably many crops that just wouldn't grow.
Net result; ruined field at the cost of a lot of wasted time, power, wear and tear on equipment.
Then find something that will grow in sand in your climate, turn it under each year until you rebuild the field, long time, expensive lesson.
Egon
Epic Contributor
Another consideration is larger tractors able to pull wider bottoms which in turn are easier to build and have less parts to maintain.
Say a 10 bottom plough with 22 in. bottoms would require approximately 18 12 inch bottoms to replace it. That means eight more, ala bight lighter, beams and trips and all that good stuff that goes with it. Lots more machined parts and more to assemble. The larger tractors also allowed for faster ploughing speed so the furrow would turn over. The times they did change and some fellows bought large tractors and large ploughs.
There are ploughs designed to go deep. Some will even be able to move the topsoil over, turn the deep furrow and then replace the topsoil back on top. For the use of these plough proper soil testing is required before any work is done.
Say a 10 bottom plough with 22 in. bottoms would require approximately 18 12 inch bottoms to replace it. That means eight more, ala bight lighter, beams and trips and all that good stuff that goes with it. Lots more machined parts and more to assemble. The larger tractors also allowed for faster ploughing speed so the furrow would turn over. The times they did change and some fellows bought large tractors and large ploughs.
There are ploughs designed to go deep. Some will even be able to move the topsoil over, turn the deep furrow and then replace the topsoil back on top. For the use of these plough proper soil testing is required before any work is done.
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
Anyway.....Joed3320, to answer your original post, I'm not sure why we're venturing off on a tangent about 10 bottom X 22" plows for a 32hp machine, but that tractor would be able to handle most any size single bottom, and probably a 2 X12" plow in most all conditions. Any more than that will depend on soil type and to a degree, tire type.
I can pull a 2x14 with a 4WD Ford 1710. Sometimes a bit of a challenge in sod, sometimes not. I use my plow and then my disc prior to tilling...makes it easier and faster than having to till he same ground more than once or twice.
Egon
Epic Contributor
Maybe it brings some clarity to ploughing depth!
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
Or more likely, just to be the horses arse we've all grown so accustom to......since 10X22" plows have ABSOLUTELY no relevence in this discussion.
I have a 3240 cab (32hp) and can pull a 2-14 plow with no problem. I bought a ford dearborn plow on ebay for $200 and let me tell you it is a heck of a plow and does a wonderful job. You just have to make sure it is set up right and then you wont have any problems pulling it.
Oh yea one last thing, for a 32hp tractor to pull that plow you must have 4wd or filled tires. I have 4wd and can pull the plow with out filled tires (r4 ind tires) but my tractor has a weight of 3900 lbs because of the cab. The best will be 4wd plus filled tires then you will have the best pulling capacity.
Oh yea one last thing, for a 32hp tractor to pull that plow you must have 4wd or filled tires. I have 4wd and can pull the plow with out filled tires (r4 ind tires) but my tractor has a weight of 3900 lbs because of the cab. The best will be 4wd plus filled tires then you will have the best pulling capacity.
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
I grew up plowing with dads Ferguson F40. It was (is?) 32hp, gas, 2wd, and weighed in @ approx. 4100lbs. It pulled a 2X14" mounted plow quite well, even in out hard clay ground. Weight as it relates to traction play an important role. In the instance of this old Ferguson, it's draft control system played an equally important role. As you mention, having a plow adjusted correctly is probably the MOST important factor. Yet another consideration is the condition of the moldboards.....A scoured plow pulls MUCH easier than a rusted, pitted one.
Did you have filled tires? Did you have any wheel weights? Agreed and very good point, a sharp clean plow does require less effort to pull.
