2 inch receiver welded to lift arms

[BobRip]

The problem with a dead tractor is you cannot get the current attachment off to put on a different QA plate with your winch or hooks on it.

A stuck tractor that needs to go forward is also a problem because even if you can detach the current attachment, raise the lift arms and mount your winch or hooks to the QA, you still have the implement in front of the tractor.

I do like the idea of a 2" receiver on the front deck for attaching hooks and such. However, I do not like the idea of anyone going under there with the FEL arms raised. That's how a lot of skid steer operators get killed or injured.

If you do decide to mount your winch under there, be sure to make some safety tubes to fasten around your raised cylinder rams that you can lock in place to prevent the FEL arms from lowering accidentally.

I like the idea of the safety tubes. Could you put them on top of the lift arm hydraulic cylinder where the rod comes out and then go up to where the rod connects to the lift arm. These could be pretty short. I could find room to store them on the PT.

 

[MossRoad]

I like the idea of the safety tubes. Could you put them on top of the lift arm hydraulic cylinder where the rod comes out and then go up to where the rod connects to the lift arm. These could be pretty short. I could find room to store them on the PT.

You'd probably only need one. Find a thick walled tube with an inside diameter just a tad larger than the ram on the lift arm. Cut it to 1/2 inch less than the length of the fully extended ram. The ram is just the silver rod coming out of the tube, not the entire length of the cylinder and the ram. Slice it in half lengthwise. Then, if you have to get under the lift arms, you can raise them all the way up, sandwich the two tube halves around the extended ram and secure it with something. Pipe clamps could be used, but I would rather weld some ears on each half of the tubes and use some bolts with wing nuts. The bottom of the pipe halves rests on the top of the cylinder.

Once installed, if the cylinders leak down the pipe halves will prevent it. Also, if you accidentally hit the down or float on the joystick, the pipe halves will prevent it from going down.

Many industrial loaders come with these safety devices mounted on the outside of one of the loader arms. I learned about this on TBN many years ago when I asked someone what that red thing on the side of their loader arm was.

 

[BobRip]

You'd probably only need one. Find a thick walled tube with an inside diameter just a tad larger than the ram on the lift arm. Cut it to 1/2 inch less than the length of the fully extended ram. The ram is just the silver rod coming out of the tube, not the entire length of the cylinder and the ram. Slice it in half lengthwise. Then, if you have to get under the lift arms, you can raise them all the way up, sandwich the two tube halves around the extended ram and secure it with something. Pipe clamps could be used, but I would rather weld some ears on each half of the tubes and use some bolts with wing nuts. The bottom of the pipe halves rests on the top of the cylinder.

Once installed, if the cylinders leak down the pipe halves will prevent it. Also, if you accidentally hit the down or float on the joystick, the pipe halves will prevent it from going down.

Many industrial loaders come with these safety devices mounted on the outside of one of the loader arms. I learned about this on TBN many years ago when I asked someone what that red thing on the side of their loader arm was.

Sounds like a good thing to have even if I don't put the receiver on. I will definately build one, or something like it.

 

[Gravy]

How about this:

Add a 2" receiver on each side just below the ROPS attachment. Make it so you can plug in a tow hook or a winch facing either front or back.

If you are stuck, you can yank on the most stuck side from the most useful direction. If you are trying to unstick something else, you can fine-tune the geometry.

That's what I've got.

 

[cqaigy2]

I usually get stuck nose down, so i hook to the pin in the back tub.

 

[BobRip]

After our discussion here I decided to build some lift arm safety support brackets. First the disclaimer. I make no warranty as to the safety of these brackets and am not a mechanical design engineer. I have done no load testing or safety analysis, so copy and use these at your own risk.

I decided to do a test unit out of 2 inch angle iron, 3/16 inch thick. I cut a piece 9 1/4 inches long. I drilled (with a 1 3/8 inch hole saw on my drill press) a semicircle out of one end to support the lift arm on the pin that goes through the hydraulic cylinder . I cut the other end to leave tabs that go around the hydraulic lift cylinder when installed.

This device probably will not need any additional device to hold it in place as the tabs at the bottom end wrap around the cylinder and the load of the arm keeps it in place. My biggest concern is will the bracket put unevenly distributed forces on the cylinder and damage it. Comments on this and other issues would be greatly appreciated. See pictures below

 

[ponytug]

Dear Bob,

You do move quickly!

I can't quite tell from the photos, but it looks as if the angle iron makes contact with the cylinder rod. You might want to be careful of contact with the extended cylinder as scratches will abrade the seals.

I suspect an old inner tube or something would go a long way.

All the best,

Peter

 

[BobRip]

Dear Bob,

You do move quickly!

I can't quite tell from the photos, but it looks as if the angle iron makes contact with the cylinder rod. You might want to be careful of contact with the extended cylinder as scratches will abrade the seals.

I suspect an old inner tube or something would go a long way.

All the best,

Peter

Thanks Peter. I had not thought of that. I will find something to put around the bracket of maybe modify the bracket.

 

[MossRoad]

Do the little tabs kind of lock it around the cylinder at the bottom? Pretty cool.

 

[BobRip]

Do the little tabs kind of lock it around the cylinder at the bottom? Pretty cool.

Yes they do. I think it ideal. Very simple, one piece device. I may weld a tab at the corner to keep from rubbing the cylinder shaft. This will center the angle iron the the cylinder top. It kinda does anyway. I am just thinking about it. I hate to do this as it gets away from the one piece concept.

Now I need to find a thin coating that will protect the rod from scratches. If the coating is very thick I will have to trim the tabs a little. Do you think paint would be enough? I could put on several coats.

Moss, do you think the cylinder will be damaged by putting the weight where the angle iron contacts. It looks like it should be OK, but I need other's opinions.