2 part epoxy to hold lights on ROPS???
- Thread starter Bob_Skurka
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gotrocks
Platinum Member
Bob,
I notice one has already mentioned JB Weld.
I used JB Weld several years ago to attach a pully to the shaft of an electric motor to be used on an old Oliver wood lathe. It is still holding and working fine.
You have already mentioned getting the paint off and I also used lacquer thinner to remove any other oily?? residue before applying JB.
Good luck.
I notice one has already mentioned JB Weld.
I used JB Weld several years ago to attach a pully to the shaft of an electric motor to be used on an old Oliver wood lathe. It is still holding and working fine.
You have already mentioned getting the paint off and I also used lacquer thinner to remove any other oily?? residue before applying JB.
Good luck.
Mark_in_NH
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( I simply think that U-Bolts make a sloppy looking install. )
Why not create your own. Considering the fact that most roll bars aren't round but are rectangular, all you need are some tasteful looking metal and some stainless bolts of proper length.
A hacksaw, drill, maybe a grinder for smoothing up the cut edges, rounding up the ends. A few hand tools, maybe some paint.
I can see a simple tasteful metal bracket, with the top piece of metal being just long enough to span the ROPS, with a hole on each end. A piece of matching metal cut longer then the top, drill 2 holes near the center to match he holes in the upper bracket, drill 2 holes near the ends of the lower backet to attach your lights to. Round off the ends and any edges for safety and appearance, spay paint everything in black if you so choose, let dry and install with the stainless bolts.
Make a pair of these, one for each side of the ROPS, bolt 2 lights the the front holes and 2 lights to the back holes.
You can buy several sizes of black plastic wire loom. I think I used 3/4". I also used a 7 conducter insulated cable used for trailer wiring that I placed inside the loom.
Most local hardware stores sell several sizes of flat stock in both aluminum and steel.
Why not create your own. Considering the fact that most roll bars aren't round but are rectangular, all you need are some tasteful looking metal and some stainless bolts of proper length.
A hacksaw, drill, maybe a grinder for smoothing up the cut edges, rounding up the ends. A few hand tools, maybe some paint.
I can see a simple tasteful metal bracket, with the top piece of metal being just long enough to span the ROPS, with a hole on each end. A piece of matching metal cut longer then the top, drill 2 holes near the center to match he holes in the upper bracket, drill 2 holes near the ends of the lower backet to attach your lights to. Round off the ends and any edges for safety and appearance, spay paint everything in black if you so choose, let dry and install with the stainless bolts.
Make a pair of these, one for each side of the ROPS, bolt 2 lights the the front holes and 2 lights to the back holes.
You can buy several sizes of black plastic wire loom. I think I used 3/4". I also used a 7 conducter insulated cable used for trailer wiring that I placed inside the loom.
Most local hardware stores sell several sizes of flat stock in both aluminum and steel.
Junkman
Super Member
I have a friend at the phone company that gave me a couple 3 foot lengths of flat plastic cable holders. You place the cable into the plastic holder and fold over the top flap till it snaps into place to create a 1/2" x 1 1/2" rectangular tube. The back side of the material has a peal and stick adhesive that works well to hold it to the wall (my application). I think that this would work well on a ROPS. Possibly Granger may carry this product.....
RichNJKubota
Gold Member
I use epoxies to glue metal to metal all the time. Most things get the Devcon 5 minute epoxy but that is not the best type of epoxy. The 24 hr cure time epxies are much better. The current brand I have is "Hexcel". Don't recall where I got it. But I buy it in quart containers. Try a hobby shop.
Just make sure that both parts are bare metal and a rough surface. Once they are bonded the only way to get them apart is to heat the parts up hot enough until the epoxy fails.
Just make sure that both parts are bare metal and a rough surface. Once they are bonded the only way to get them apart is to heat the parts up hot enough until the epoxy fails.
Tractors4u
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The one I pictured was a true U shaped U bolt. There are some out there that have a flat valley instead of the curve, that of course would work better with the rectangular shape of the ROPS tubing.
dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
3M Industrial makes a line of double stick tape that's nothing short of amazing. Their salesman gave me a sample with 2 hooks stuck together by about 1 sq. inch of surface. Nobody's got them apart yet.
Don't know how weather would affect them, however a 3M Industrial dealer may could answer.
Don't know how weather would affect them, however a 3M Industrial dealer may could answer.
RichNJKubota
Gold Member
In fact the double sided body moulding tape would work great. Get it at WalMart or just about any auto parts store.
OP
Bob_Skurka
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Junkman... is that plastic cable holder flexible so it can follow the curve at the top of the ROPS? Is it paintable? I was looking at the cable potectors that the computer techs use to protect cables that are run OVER carpets in offices. It has a channel, is beveled smooth, but does not have self stick tape on the back. I figured that would be a totally snagproof way of running the wires up the ROPS, the stuff is durable because it can take foot traffic for years before wearing out, and I figured I could paint it to match the ROPS.
As for mounting the lights themselves, I have 4 PIAA 35watt fog lamps. I looked long and hard at the ROPS and I am thinking of using epoxy <font color="red"> but I am not sure which brand yet </font> to glue a piece of 1.5" x 1.5" angle iron to the back of the ROPS so that it hangs off the back in an "L" shape with the lower lip of the "L" is flush with the bottom of the ROPS. This will allow me to hang the lamps UNDER the ROPS instead of mounting them on top.
My garage door is too low and I have A LOT OF LOW BRANCHES that would hit anything mounted above the ROPS, hanging the lights under the ROPS will give them some protection??? I figure I can drill into the angle iron to mount the lights so if they do get damaged I will have the ability to swap them out, etc. 2 lights will face forward, two lights will face the rear of the tractor.
As for mounting the lights themselves, I have 4 PIAA 35watt fog lamps. I looked long and hard at the ROPS and I am thinking of using epoxy <font color="red"> but I am not sure which brand yet </font> to glue a piece of 1.5" x 1.5" angle iron to the back of the ROPS so that it hangs off the back in an "L" shape with the lower lip of the "L" is flush with the bottom of the ROPS. This will allow me to hang the lamps UNDER the ROPS instead of mounting them on top.
My garage door is too low and I have A LOT OF LOW BRANCHES that would hit anything mounted above the ROPS, hanging the lights under the ROPS will give them some protection??? I figure I can drill into the angle iron to mount the lights so if they do get damaged I will have the ability to swap them out, etc. 2 lights will face forward, two lights will face the rear of the tractor.
Soundguy
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While I think you will have great luck with a 2 part epoxy, or somehting like j / b weld .. everything I attatch to my rops I use band / hose clamps... just so easy...
You could attatch those lights to a bracket, and clamp that bracket to the rops.. easy to remove when you want them.. without worrying about sanding off the epoxy.. etc.
Soundguy
You could attatch those lights to a bracket, and clamp that bracket to the rops.. easy to remove when you want them.. without worrying about sanding off the epoxy.. etc.
Soundguy