2 part epoxy to hold lights on ROPS???

Bob_Skurka · Nov 1, 2003

I am still tinkering around trying to figure out exactly where and how to mount some lights to the ROPS. I want 2 forward and 2 rearward facing light. I believe I will go with <font color="yellow"> YELLOW FOG LAMPS </font> because I want the spread of the fog lamp pattern rather than a long range driving beam designed for high speed traffic and because I think (but I am not sure) that fewer bugs may swarm yellow lights.

But the more I investigate mounting options I am drawn to 2 part epoxy. I am wondering if anyone has any experience with using 2 part epoxy to mount metal to metal and what the life span of it is in practical usage in an outdoor enviornment.

Also, I know some car makers are using exotic epoxies to bond cars together, but I am interested in the epoxies that I can actually buy at an auto parts or similar store.

F350Lawman · Nov 1, 2003

I am wondering if anyone has any experience with using 2 part epoxy to mount metal to metal and what the life span of it is in practical usage in an outdoor enviornment.

Think I might use some hose clamps to hold it on but if you want to use epoxy.....

Been swinging the driver I built with 2 part epoxy for years. Granted it's graphite to metal but it will work the same for metal to metal. Every golf club in the world is held together with 2 part epoxy and it holds great under stresses your lights will never see. Clubs sit in hot cars asometimes nd obviously see the outdoors often with no problems

P.S. If you want, go to the golf shop, golf club epoxy is very strong, has great vibration resistance so it should work well on a bouncey tractor. Just rough up the surfaces and get a good mix before you do it.

Bob_Skurka · Nov 1, 2003

I was figuring that I would sand the paint off of the ROPS in the place where I mounted the lights if I used epoxy to mount the lights.

I am EX golfer, and never even thougth of using epoxy from a golf shop. I was wondering if there are marine epoxies, I figured they would be designed for all sorts of nasty conditions.

F350Lawman · Nov 1, 2003

I am EX golfer

So you're smarter than most /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

PineRidge · Nov 1, 2003

I might recommend J-B Weld 2 part epoxy sold at Home Depot. I have seen chaps use the stuff to repair cracked engine blocks. I personally used it years ago on a cracked water pump and it held with no problem long enough for me to special order the correct pump as a replacement. Don't let it puddle on the work bench or you will have a permanent rock hard glob of the stuff like I do. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Tractors4u · Nov 1, 2003

Have you considered maybe using a bracket and clamping the bracket to the ROPS with a U bolt? Even if the epoxy works, what happens when you get it mounted up there and then decide that it should have been over 3 inches to the right or a limb shatters the light and then you have the epoxy to remove. With the U bolts you can adjust and remove without the hassle. See the attached U bolt.

soarkrebel · Nov 2, 2003

Devcon makes a better quality product. check a industrial supply company and get a catalog or have them direct you.

devcon makes a variety of different epoxys for different metal applications.
3m also makes alot of great super adhesives.

PineRidge · Nov 2, 2003

Brent so thats what a U bolt looks like,,,,,,, just pulling your leg a bit. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

I do agree with Brent Epoxy is permanent so you may want to consider some type of a mechanical connector. Easy on, easy off.

Bob_Skurka · Nov 2, 2003

I simply think that U-Bolts make a sloppy looking install.

I am also trying to figure out how to hold the wires flush to the ROPS. A lot of people seem to use white zip ties, but white zip ties on a black ROPS is a pretty bad look. I know that black zip ties are available and I would consider those, but I'd rather use some sort of a contoured wire chase that holds the wires flush with the ROPS and can't snag any of the trees on the property (we have a lot of woods and mow right up to the trees in many areas, so branches snagging the wires is a real issue).

I am also considering welding brackets to the ROPS and installing the lights to those. This is a warrenty busting issue, but if done correctly would actually increase the strength of the ROPS.

My dealer actually told me to drill holes into the ROPS. If I lived on FLAT land I would do that in a heartbeat despite the fact that it weakens the structurel. But as the tractor is new, under warrenty, and I live on hills, I really don't want to risk a ROPS failure. The dealer said not to worry about it, it won't fail, but I'd hate to leave a widow based on what the dealer said . . . and nobody could prove in court. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Mike_ONeill · Nov 2, 2003

I got a 12v magnetic mount work light at Wal-Mart. You can aim it forward or rearward as desired. I got it to try different light positions before mounting something permanent, but may just keep using it instead. I mounted a lighter socket on the fender, wired into the light switch. The only problem is that the light has openings and so would not be weatherproof.

Mike