2 post auto lift & tractor

[z0lt3c]

Hey Guys-
I am looking into installing a 2 post lift in my garage so I don't have to crawl around on my back so much. Most of these lifts come with 220V 1 or 2 phase motors... which seems like a waste when I have my tractor with remote hydraulics parked right next to the lift. My question is, can the tractor remote hydraulics be used to power the hydraulic cylinders in the lift? Has anybody installed such a solution, or am I just better off putting down the electrical lines?

Also, on a non-tractor note, I am unsure of the thickness of my concrete floor, other then drilling test hole or excavating, is their a easy way to determine if I meet the 4" / 3000 PSI specifications? My house was built in 2004, seems unlikely my floor would be less then 4" or 3000 PSI. I would ask my builder, but he unfortunately past away a few years ago.

Anybody have recommendations for 7k or 8k lb lifts?

Thanks,

 

[Cat_Driver]

In order to lift your tractor and use the tractor hydraulics you would have to be operating the tractor either while on the tractor ro off the tractor. Makes me wonder how do you the off once in the air?

Now I'm no rocket scientist but I can see nothing but problems here. Lifting a running tractor would be suicide.

Go electric - be safe, spend the money, the life you save may be your own.

 

[z0lt3c]

Well the obvious clarification is that I am not trying to lift the tractor, I'm trying to lift other vehicles I own (mostly BMWs). The tractor is parked, on the ground, in the bay next to the lift,

 

[Jeepnford]

I would use the electric motor if for no other reason than convenience. Unless you want a tractor running endlessly while you work on something you would have to turn the tractor on and off every time you raised or lowered the lift. I would also be curious to know if the motor is required for any of the safety catches to work. A car falling on you could ruin your entire day.

 

[kenstrac]

Most lifts have safety controls that are electric doing it with tractor hydraulics you wold not have safeties

 

[J_J]

You could use the foot operated air/hydraulics for the lift, or, these pumps from Surplus Hydraulics are 112/230 v.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2156010107271128&item=9-7138&catname=hydraulic

Do you have the height in your garage that you can lift and work under the lift/car.

 

[J_J]

Most lifts have safety controls that are electric doing it with tractor hydraulics you wold not have safeties

He could use pilot operated load check valves for holding a load/lift.

 

[Egon]

On the floor:

You don't know what you have till you check it.

Best approach is to cut out squares for the two pads and then pour a concrete pile and pad in the cutout. Put some anchors for the hoist in the concrete.

On the Hydraulics:

Yes you could get it to work but would have to ensure all the safety aspects are met. [I don't know what the specifications for a hoist are]You will also be running a vehicle in an enclosed space which may not be the best of policies. I have a hunch the tractor hydraulic system may cost more then the electric option and just generally be a pain.

 

[DanD78]

Unless room is an issue I would go with a 4 post lift. To me just looking just looking at a two post lift scares me because cars do not have the same weight on both axles. I have never heard of one falling over but...

Dan

 

[George2615]

Run the 220 line to power your lift.

I have a Challenger 2 post 9000 lb lift. They also have 7K lifts and 4 posters too if that's what you want. It seems to me that trying to use the tractor hydraulics to power your lift is a waste of time and fuel plus the electrical safety devices on the lift would not work.

Just my opinion but I don't care for the lifts that Northern sells. They are made in China. I recently helped install one a friend of mine bought. It will do the job but I didn't like the quality of the lift and it came with a poorly photocopied manual that had all installation measurements in millimeters. It took us a while to find the conversion formula to inches. The lift also does not have any ALI certification stickers on it.

As far as your floor thickness goes, if you have access to an outside wall of your garage dig down on the outside to check the thickness of your floor. 4" seems pretty thin to me to install a lift. 6-8" is better but if 4 is all you have then I'd either go with a 4 post or if you are set on going with a 2 post then run some guy wire support cables to the front and back walls of your garage from the top of the lift posts after installation. My concrete floor is 6" at the outside and slopes to 9" in the center.