2 questions; operating temperature and oil leaks

   / 2 questions; operating temperature and oil leaks #41  
We use the enginaire products on our brush chipper, stump grinder, practically all of our equipment. Very useful item and worth the money. If I am not mistaken, they have a lifetime guarantee and they will replace them free if anything ever happens to them.

Wish I could find a way to adapt one on my 1430.
 
   / 2 questions; operating temperature and oil leaks #42  
Mark wrong beside my post about wet enough Spring to hold down the chaff. Tuesday night, by the end of two hours it was running up near 240, and got balky about revving after reduction of RPM. Wednesday PM, spent 1/2 hour with compressed air, Simple Green, water spray, etc. and still could see a few clogs when I put a white paper underneath, illuminated with a droplight, but pretty clean. Mowed for two hours without getting to 220. Plenty chaff, but apparently just wet enough to be sticky. When I get time in a month or so, I may have to revisit the centrifugal filter mounting problems.
 
   / 2 questions; operating temperature and oil leaks #43  
<font color="red"> With a nice hot beverage in the water bottle and no need to come out from under the canopy to clear the chaff, how ya going to get wet anyway? </font>
For a solid steel roof, funny how little water the canopy keeps off the operator. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
   / 2 questions; operating temperature and oil leaks #44  
I noticed when brush hogging tall stuff that is damp, or if it is snowing really hard, the top of my legs get soaked. However from about my mid torso up I remain very dry. A cab always looks tempting. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
   / 2 questions; operating temperature and oil leaks #45  
<font color="red"> A cab always looks tempting. </font>
Not when compared with a fireplace and easy chair. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
   / 2 questions; operating temperature and oil leaks #46  
<font color="red"> When I get time in a month or so, I may have to revisit the centrifugal filter mounting problems. </font>

Be sure to duct the filtered air directly to the fan. I have every significant orifice in the hood screened or filtered and the smalls still get in and plug the cooler. I have insect screening on the sides, split pipe insulation along the bottom edges of the hood, and a 1 inch filter batt (ScotchBrite like material) on the back (set out 3 inches to reduce the velocity and keep the chaff from clinging - that part works!) What gets through now is basically dust - and a surprising amount of it. The way the fins are stamped and bent they catch everything that comes through. My next step might be to replace the insect screening on the sides with fiber batts and see if that helps.

Sure seems silly to have to cover a nice black and red machine with brown window screens, gray duct tape and blue batts just to make it work for an hour.

And then turn the air blue for the cleanout hour...
Sedgewood
 

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   / 2 questions; operating temperature and oil leaks #47  
<font color="red">Be sure to duct the filtered air directly to the fan. </font>
Every time I think about that part, I realize that I extend checking the oil or filling the tank to a 1/2 hour project. But, I don't have to do those as often, right? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
   / 2 questions; operating temperature and oil leaks #48  
<font color="blue"> Not when compared with a fireplace and easy chair.</font>

I'd take a cab with heater and a suspension seat over a fireplace and easychair any day! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
   / 2 questions; operating temperature and oil leaks #49  
<font color="red">Every time I think about that part, I realize that I extend checking the oil or filling the tank to a 1/2 hour project. </font>

Get yourself the top 4-5 inches or so of a 5 gallon bucket, slip it over the rubber fan intake gasket (it fits nicely - I went there on one leg of this journey toward clean air) and trim it to extend back until it hits the grill on the back of the closed hood. Hang your rotary air cleaner by a hinge at the top of the hood - when you lift the hood it should fall away and clear the trailer hitch....

Now you can refuel in less than 1/2 hour - but you still can't back into trees like I can with my ScotchBrite filter /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Sedgewood
 
   / 2 questions; operating temperature and oil leaks
  • Thread Starter
#50  
I am Sooo glad to hear you talk about backing into trees! I've done if a couple times in my limited time on my 1850. Wang! Followed by hangdog look around to make sure Marcie didn't see me. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

I think the little chaff problem is just our fate -- I've been blowing chaff out of the radiators of tractors (Deere 850, followed by a Kubota 6800) for years.

One thing I've discovered is a right-angle nozzle for the air hose -- which, in the case of the PT, means I don't have to take the top plate off the engine to get in there and blow the chaff down. The side plate is no biggy, but Charlie's point about getting the top plate back on right struck a nerve.

I like MossRoad's idea of mounting a little air compressor inside the engine compartment. Anybody got any favorites (real small, 12 volt power, happy to get hot).

By the way, to clear up some confusion -- those of us who are whining about chaff are talking about the radiators getting plugged up, not the air filter. I agree, the air filter seems to be pretty clean.
 

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