Trophyduck
Member
I have an Echo Timberwolf. Has been great
20 inch chainsaw recommendation
- Thread starter GlennMeyers
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TreePointer
Bronze Member
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After crushing my MS-361 (59cc, 12.3 lbs, 4.6 hp), I replaced it with a MS-400CM (66.8cc, 12.8 lbs, 5.4 hp)
Both running a 20" bar. I'm very happy with the 400CM
Hay Dude
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Seems like the saw sizes are ratcheting up.
The OP is currently running an 18” saw.
Maybe it’s time to recommend a 80CC 36” saw?
The OP is currently running an 18” saw.
Maybe it’s time to recommend a 80CC 36” saw?
Last edited:
Hay Dude
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- Challenger MT655E, Massey Ferguson 7495, Challenger MT535B, Krone 4x4 XC baler, (2) Kubota ZD331’s, 2020 Ram 5500 Cummins 4x4, IH 7500 4x4 dump truck, Kaufman 35’ tandem 19 ton trailer, Deere CX-15, Pottinger Hay mowers
So that means they aren’t comparable. That was my only point.
K ?
Hay Dude
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That’s a really good, overlooked point.
I hear a lot of guys here complaining the can’t pull the starter on their saws. A compression release solves this prob.
DieselBound
Elite Member
De-comp valves can end up leaking and sucking in air (= BAD). Really should only need them on larger saws (because they're totally necessary). IF you have one on a saw you should check them religiously.
Again, mentioning a "brand" is meaningless unless specifying the exact model. Someone noted that they'd use Stihl if cutting every day, well, NOT if you're using a consumer-grade Stihl. Sorry. What one wants FIRST is "Professional" grade, then pick your "Ford" or "Chevy" brand (based on service availability etc.).
Also, what bar size one is using is mostly meaningless. If you want to know what to get then SPECIFY what type of work it needs to do FIRST. While longer bars tend to keep one upright more they also require more sharpening activity (chains and bars are going to be more expensive), tend to find dirt quicker unless one is careful and are hard to swing around in tighter quarters (more danger to oneself- more bar and more chain to come into contact with). A saw that does 100% of what one needs doesn't exist (unless one is dealing with a tree plantation or such- all the trees are the same, the cutting conditions are the same). Get what can reliably do 90% of what you need to do, perhaps push it 5% more and use another saw/tool for the remainder. Anyone who does a lot of cutting is going to have multiple saws of differing sizes*.
* I'm kind of an oddball here in that I have four saws but only two sizes (ended up with three of the same saw- they're the perfect saw for 90% of what I deal with).
I did break down and buy an electric pole saw (DeWalt). This was a great pick-up. Has made dealing with low-hanging limbs much easier: have cut via regular chainsaw from a tractor bucket- now just stand in the back of my Polaris and reach up with the pole saw).
Again, mentioning a "brand" is meaningless unless specifying the exact model. Someone noted that they'd use Stihl if cutting every day, well, NOT if you're using a consumer-grade Stihl. Sorry. What one wants FIRST is "Professional" grade, then pick your "Ford" or "Chevy" brand (based on service availability etc.).
Also, what bar size one is using is mostly meaningless. If you want to know what to get then SPECIFY what type of work it needs to do FIRST. While longer bars tend to keep one upright more they also require more sharpening activity (chains and bars are going to be more expensive), tend to find dirt quicker unless one is careful and are hard to swing around in tighter quarters (more danger to oneself- more bar and more chain to come into contact with). A saw that does 100% of what one needs doesn't exist (unless one is dealing with a tree plantation or such- all the trees are the same, the cutting conditions are the same). Get what can reliably do 90% of what you need to do, perhaps push it 5% more and use another saw/tool for the remainder. Anyone who does a lot of cutting is going to have multiple saws of differing sizes*.
* I'm kind of an oddball here in that I have four saws but only two sizes (ended up with three of the same saw- they're the perfect saw for 90% of what I deal with).
I did break down and buy an electric pole saw (DeWalt). This was a great pick-up. Has made dealing with low-hanging limbs much easier: have cut via regular chainsaw from a tractor bucket- now just stand in the back of my Polaris and reach up with the pole saw).
dodge man
Super Star Member
My ms261 has a compression release valve, two thirds of the time I forget to use it.
DieselBound
Elite Member
Worst starting saw is my Stihl 192 (whatever it is). It's an "easy-start" saw I got for my wife. BUT, it's only really bad if you do not start it correctly- one cannot rip on the cord w/o flooding it (at which point it's a mess to get started). One has to just slowly pull on the cord as if chug-chugs and pops. Great saw otherwise: perfect for doing a lot of small branch work- not a top-handle but the top-handle one is one a lot of folks would used up in trees. Have had this saw just a bit longer than my oldest 562xp.
kozal01
Platinum Member
That’s how the easy start works, pulling the cord is literally just winding up a clock spring that spins the engine over when you get to the end of the pull. If you just yank on it like a normal pull start it won’t work and will damage the starter. It’s not a great system on a saw though IMO, but I have it on my backpack blower and it’s awesome, don’t have to take it off my back to re-start it.
renegade99
New member
I have a 40 year old Stihl 076AV with 32, 36 and 54 inch bars that has cut several thousand cords of wood it never fails to start on the 3rd pull if it hasn't been used, 1 or 2nd otherwise. Also have an 026PRO and a 251 that always start by the 2nd pull with 24 and 26 inch bars that are wonderful lighter saws, only brand I will buy.
