2001 NH TC35 starting problem

[Keebler]

I have seen more then a few problems posted with the TC35 starter problems. I just bought this tractor with known starting problems. Turn the key and all the glow plugs work as it should but there is no turn- over of the engine after. There is now click or anything. The previous owner had been using a jump wire on the starter/ solenoid to get it started- it turns over and starts fine with the wire. I changed the key switch out when i got it home in my garage and nothing improved. Im looking for some ideas or knowledge on what i should do next. I can get it going- i just don't want to rely on the wire.
Thanks for any help?..

 

[STx]

It's likely a safety switch issue or wiring problem in the safety circuit. Check all your safety switches (PTO, transmission and seat) and the wire along that path and you should find the problem.

I got tired of fighting with mine and added a push button to a circuit that is powered by the ignition key and goes straight to the starter, bypassing the safety circuit. Not the best solution but it works 100% of the time.

 

[Wild Bill the 2nd]

If you have not read through the sticky on NH starting issues you need to.

I sold my 2001 TC35 last spring and it had intermittent starting issues for the previous 3-4 years. Such a pain. If I had it now I would do the wiring modification listed on page 5 & 6 of the linked thread.

 

[Keebler]

I found that post last night. Im not real confident in my mechanical skills but I'm going to start with the fuses and look at the relays. Maybe put in one of the breaker type fuses. The new wiring looks promising though. The tractor seems to be strong otherwise.

 

[Keebler]

Thanks for the help. I just need to wait until its not -15 degrees outside to work on it.

 

[Wild Bill the 2nd]

Well, it's good to make your plans and get your parts around anyways.

It seems like there could be multiple issues with these machines. At least multiple solutions. So many people with starting problems. Go to Google and type in the following.

new holland starting problem site:tractorbynet.com

The search within this site is horrible. Google does it much better. You will see there are many many threads out there. You might be able to glean some info from some of them too.

 

[STx]

If you have not read through the sticky on NH starting issues you need to.

I sold my 2001 TC35 last spring and it had intermittent starting issues for the previous 3-4 years. Such a pain. If I had it now I would do the wiring modification listed on page 5 & 6 of the linked thread.

While the fix in this thread is a good one, I don't think it's going to solve his problem because he says he's not getting a clicking sound. To me, that says that no current is making it to the starter solenoid so it's probably a safety switch or otherwise broken circuit.

 

[Wild Bill the 2nd]

That could very well be.

I'd also say to check the fuses. Mine would always blow fuses after having an unsuccessful start.

I think that was one of the symptoms that the linked fix was supposed to help.

Any further information that Keebler can provide when he starts digging into them issue would be helpful.

 

[Keebler]

I feel like just by-passing the whole safety interlocks……
I looked at the fuse box- its caked in dirt. I need to find a good way to clean all the contacts. The local auto stores didn't have the right size circuit breaker for fuse position 2. That should be in tomorrow

 

[STx]

A quick way to visually see if the fuse is blown is if the PTO indicator light is lit up on the dash even though it's fully disengaged. When the breaker trips, the PTO light comes on and it goes off after the breaker resets.

Although I did it myself, I would not recommend bypassing the safety switches. At some point, I'll probably fix mine correctly but for now, I had work to do and needed a quick fix.

 

[Keebler]

A quick way to visually see if the fuse is blown is if the PTO indicator light is lit up on the dash even though it's fully disengaged. When the breaker trips, the PTO light comes on and it goes off after the breaker resets.

Although I did it myself, I would not recommend bypassing the safety switches. At some point, I'll probably fix mine correctly but for now, I had work to do and needed a quick fix.

I don't see that i have a PTO indicator light. I turned on the PTO and didn't see any areas light up. I didn't see a spot on the dash for one.

 

[Wild Bill the 2nd]

I don't think that you do. I just looked at old pics of my dash. No PTO light.

 

[STx]

There's one on my TC40, down in the bottom right. Looks like a gear with an arrow going around it.

Check your owner's manual, it'll be in there if you have one.

 

[felixedo]

I don't mean to jump Keebler's thread, but I have a similar problem with my TC35D. My apologies if this throws off your issue, but hopefully the discussion helps us both. If this should be a separate thread, feel free to send me on my way. My situation is as follows: Initial turning of the key to the run position, activates the glow plugs, accessories, etc. Turning to "START" everything goes dead. Sometimes a faint buzzing sound in the relays. I cannot duplicate the initial pre-start response after the first try. I replaced the key switch, only to get the same result. Clearly blowing the start side of the key switch.

My questions to the group are:
1) This could be a Neutral Start Relay problem, How do I test it?
2) This could be a starter problem. I don't think the poles I need to jump are exposed on the starter. Is there a good way to jump this starter on the machine, or do I need to remove it? If I remove it, will the results be accurate?
3) Correct me if I'm wrong, but beyond that, I think there are only 3 wires that could be causing the problem: The ignition wire, both before and after the Neutral Relay, the Run wire, and the Main Battery wire(least likely since appears to work in "RUN" position).

Also, the factory switch is a 4 Pole, 3 Position switch. The wiring diagram shows the Acc and Ign wires connected directly together. Do you see an issue using a cheaper, generic key switch and terminating these wires on the same post on the switch?

Thanks in advance.

 

[STx]

felixedo, your issue sounds like the one described in the thread linked on post 3 on this thread. The safety circuit has problems over time and will not send enough current to the starter solenoid, it'll sometimes click, sometimes blow the fuse or trip the breaker if you have it.

You can cut the little green wire going to the starter and apply 12V to it to jump the starter solenoid but I think you should look at what was mentioned in the thread linked on post 3.

 

[felixedo]

Thanks, STx. I wasn't sure about how much that link applied since it's a class II vs class III machine. Just to be sure we are on the same page, you mean the White wire on the starter (?) No green wire.

 

[STx]

It'll be a smaller wire, about 14ga or 16ga.

The other thread should apply. My factory service manual covers TC35, TC40 and TC45 so they should be pretty much the same.

 

[Keebler]

I changed the seat safety switch and the pro switch with no positive results. I'm still stuck and thinking a simple switch for ignition could save me lots of headaches and $ bringing it to a dealer. I might try to get the motivation to open it up and look at each individual wire for a break or decay. It might be the needle in the hay stack routine

 

[STx]

You can narrow down your search area considerably with a volt/ohm meter. Measure resistance from the starter to the first safety switch in line, if it's low (like 20 or less), move on to the next switch. This will isolate which part of the wire you're having trouble with instead of throwing lots of parts at it with no results.