I have done some reading and glad I did.

The plugs in the 2003 trucks like mine are not the ones that come apart. This is a problem on later models. On the trucks like mine the problem is that the plugs tend to get seized in the head and then strip the threads coming out. And even to change the plug and coil on one of the front cylinders (#2), you have to remove the fuel rail and a bunch of other stuff. I'm going to let a mechanic do it. Even toying with the idea of letting the dealership do it. And then I'm going to sell it. Will be a bit sad to see it go.
I have heard of dealerships charging $1000 to $2000 to change coils and plugs figuring that at least a few of the plugs will result in stripped threads. Dealerships also charge over $50 per coil. (You can get a whole set for $130 of (reportedly) good quality).