2005-2010 Duramax diesels & rust

[Hay Dude]

As a matter of fact I did exactly that. Sprayed what I could get at with the rust inhibiting paint. Don't know if it will help or not but it couldn't hurt. The 6.0L is a great motor too. It's just I previously had 2 2500's with the 8.1 and really liked them....9 MPG and all. I don't put enough miles on anything to worry about mileage though. Still looking for one but I don't expect to find one.

Yeah but the 8.1L just sounds so cool..... 500 cubes....well, 496 anyway.
340HP 455TQ of tire roasting, gas guzzling, cast iron, Chevy big block. :cool2:

Would still prefer a Duramax/Allison. :laughing:

 

[5030]

I prefer 40 mpg myself.:laughing:

 

[Ford850]

I知 tempted to do the underside of my RAM, but I wonder if fluid film at $5/can in the most vulnerable places and rare, if ever, driving in salt would be nearly as effective?
I had 3 Ford Superduties. The 250 & 350 were used to plow and although they were washed thoroughly after being run in salt, after 10 years, they started showing signs of rust. Not surprised and I was able to keep it very minimal with thorough was washing.
My 550 was never used to plow and was always garaged. Never a speck of rust on the 550. My 3500HD was not used for plowing, no rust on it, either.

90% of rust is the road salt.

I used Fluid Film on my F150 a few times since it was new in 2013. The last couple times I mainly focused on the known rust prone areas... lower rear cab corners, rockers, fender lips, lower door edges, tailgate. It's only 7 years old so not long enough to prove anything yet, but so far so good using the truck year round and packed full of salted slush that nearly freezes the wheel wells solid. What I like about Fluid Film is I can see it's still there each summer. I light spray into each of the hidden areas is all it takes. A little goes a long way. I haven't sprayed any on it in a couple years, but right now there is a film of oil that creeps out of the seams and onto the paint from each of the areas I listed above, within a couple months of washing it off.

 

[bdeboer]

My '08 Duramax at 98k and '12 Silverado 1500 at 150k both have the bubbles over the wheel arch.

According to local bodyshop GM didnt spray any sort of coating on the inside. When passenger of the bed on 12 was replaced, after son squeezed it into a parking garage he said he went through the tail light and sprayed it. That side is still good.

Rockers on the 08 are also going now. Also neither truck showed any sign of rust 2 years ago.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Some rustproofing shops remove rear tail lights, others don't.

Too bad, someone doesn't make a kit to replace the typically wrotten segments of the fenders. Or, make whole aftermarket boxes to OEM specs.Maybe that would be cheaper than the body shop labour.

If a guy needed a new truck, you got to go out and buy one. But a guy like me, that really doesn't need one anymore, there simply isn't anything out there worth buying NEW in my opinion. Not in styling, inside and out, BS technology, poor lightly built qaulity, and worst, price! Especially when you lay the CASH on the table! Just not worth the money.

 

[5030]

Some rustproofing shops remove rear tail lights, others don't.

Too bad, someone doesn't make a kit to replace the typically wrotten segments of the fenders. Or, make whole aftermarket boxes to OEM specs.Maybe that would be cheaper than the body shop labour.

If a guy needed a new truck, you got to go out and buy one. But a guy like me, that really doesn't need one anymore, there simply isn't anything out there worth buying NEW in my opinion. Not in styling, inside and out, BS technology, poor lightly built qaulity, and worst, price! Especially when you lay the CASH on the table! Just not worth the money.

Mill auto supply among others sell replacement sheet metal for pickup truck boxes and rockers, door skins, hoods and everything else sheet metal...

 

[Industrial Toys]

I will look into it. Thanks.

 

[5030]

My '08 Duramax at 98k and '12 Silverado 1500 at 150k both have the bubbles over the wheel arch.

According to local bodyshop GM didnt spray any sort of coating on the inside. When passenger of the bed on 12 was replaced, after son squeezed it into a parking garage he said he went through the tail light and sprayed it. That side is still good.

Rockers on the 08 are also going now. Also neither truck showed any sign of rust 2 years ago.

Got news for ya, the crud that was despoited there and never removed, is corroding the metal under it. Nothing beats moist, salty crud for corrosion.

Back to my long ago comment about washing out the wheel arches with a pressure washer (and physically feeling above the arch metal break) for crud sitting there. Even my wife's 08 Burb has no arch rust and she drives it all winter because I wash the underside regularly and all the wheel arch's and check for crud each time. All 4 arches are pristine. She does have some at the bottom of the rear door skins on both sides but I'd rather skin a door than skin a front or rear quarter.

 

[5030]

In my view there are 2 distinct choices, dump them every 4 years and buy new or clean the under side and wheel arch's regularly and keep them going.

 

[Hay Dude]

Its so easy to wash all those areas. I have hot (and cold) water run to my exterior wall facing driveway with a frost free, freeze proof hose bib. Best $200 I ever spent. Hose hooked up to it with a 5 foot aluminum washing wand.
Any of my vehicles come home after winter/salt driving, I rinse the wheel wells, frame, springs, shocks, everything with hot water.
Yeah, it costs a little.
Rust costs a lot.

I like it so much I suggest them to all my construction customers on the garage. Pays for itself many times over when you have no rust. All have taken me up on it and love it for washing and rinsing vehicles.