2005 GX255 - Mower Height and other Qs (54C deck)

[dadohead]

It occurred to me... maybe a pic would help?

There should be no gap between the axle pads and the frame saddle... both sides.

 

[smp22]

Thanks for the excellent and detailed feedback. The new garden tractor has taken a back seat in terms of priorities now that I have the essential maintenance out of the way. There is also the never-ending cycle of getting all my grass cut, which I do in sections at about an hour or two at a time. That said...

I am absolutely in love with this little machine! It's a better mower than my Kubota tractor because it's faster and can go places the Kubota can't. The Kubota is great on hills going up and down, and the little JD does just fine, and I haven't really needed the diff locker either. I am mowing with the deck in transport position for now and it's "about right" (still too short for my taste honestly but here we are). I have gotten reacquainted with a lawn sweeper I never use because it's the right size for the JD.

Here's a glamour shot for you all
Thanks again for all the feedback.

 

[smp22]

Hi smp22,
Your GX uses an Achermann style steering system. LH/RH spindle coordination is controlled by a straight tie rod. The system is turned by a frame mounted cylinder pushing the steering arm forward/rearward (#23).

View attachment 880673
So just normal steering imparts the same fwd/rev force into the axle pivot. The axle has outrigger pads on the front side that rub against the frame saddle supporting this action. From your description, the axle pivot has become worn/sloppy allowing front/back twisting movement. As the axle 'floats' it is not responsive to your steering inputs. Result: you can't keep it steering straight!

Test: with the tractor running and park brake ON. Have someone turn the steering wheel left then right. Observe the front axle on the left side of the machine. Do you see the axle move forward/backward much before seeing the front wheels turn? If so, this is the problem.

As mentioned above, the steering is pretty robust and this usually doesn't happen on low hour machines like yours. There is one circumstance that causes it though: a bent axle. It can happen when the steering is at full lock (when it is most vulnerable) and the front wheel strikes something hard. The axle is nodular iron; it can be bent! If this happens, the support pad (on either side of the machine) is bent away from the frame saddle... it now has no outrigger support and wear is accelerated. Inspect both axle support pads and see if it is contacting the frame saddle. If there is a gap, the axle is bent back. Report back and we can offer direction to get you going. Lots to digest here... sorry.

Don't apologize! Thank you for the detailed guidance here. I've bookmarked your post so I that I can review next opportunity I have to spend some quality time with the little JD.

 

[dadohead]

Glad you like the GX! Inside Deere in Engineering, the GX is the 'go-to' machine; seems like everybody has one and won't let go of them. A smallish capable machine (can pull a plow), the k71 is bullet-proof, the decks cut good (and come off easily), good LEVER controlled hydraulics, and great bunch of attachment availability.

Some guys bought the gx345 water cooled variant (only $100 more) then later regretted it as that engine had a lot of warranty. There was even a diesel (gx355) offering. I think Deere was the last customer for it before Yanmar killed it (would rattle the fillings right out of your head). Many guys look for 400-500 hr gx345's (with lunched out engines) on the cheap then drop in a FH Kawasaki essentially making a gx335... great mowers!

Let us know what you learn on the steering.

 

[dadohead]

The Kubota is great on hills going up and down, and the little JD does just fine, and I haven't really needed the diff locker either.

Diff-lock is one of those things you learn to use  before you need it. Use it going  down hills especially. Most "run-a-ways" actually occur when the machine breaks traction on one rear wheel allowing it to spin back-ward (the other spins forward). The net effect is a machine careening down the hill out of control (at least you have steering). The operator will swear something is broken. Applying diff-lock as you begin the decent gains you alot of control and prevents this. Hope this helps!

 

[oldnslo]

Diff lock will reduce steering capabilities since both rear wheels are together turning same speed. To turn one rear wheel must turn slower than the other.

 

[creekscout]

I apologize if I should not be butting in on this thread, but I am experiencing the same steering problem with a newly acquired 335. Mine is doing exactly as you describe, I can turn the wheel at least 1/4 turn and the only movement is the axle moving front and back. What is the corrective action, bushings [item #7] or shaft [item#9]? Once again I am sorry if this is inappropriate.

 

[dadohead]

Same topic... perfectly acceptable!

As asked to the OP: is there a gap between the axle pads and the frame saddle?

If so, the axle is probably bent back. The axle can be straightened and the pivot bushings replaced.

 

[creekscout]

I will check that tomorrow. Mine is just a 335 not a GX335, are they the same setup?

 

[dadohead]

I will check that tomorrow. Mine is just a 335 not a GX335, are they the same setup?

From memory, GX has diff-lock is all. Steering should be the same. Does yours look like the exploded view I posted?