2006 duramax- 3500

   / 2006 duramax- 3500
  • Thread Starter
#12  
By all accounts, it's always been stock. Should be OK.

Diamond Pilot-----what do you have for a fleet? BTW..want to sell one soon?:D

You and soundguy have been great with experience and input!

56fordguy has been great also. And all others than have given their input.

Carfax and others means have been a lifesaver in the"so called deals" .

Once this deal is made, I will post the link. Can't explain now, but overall top notch dealer I am with.

Please, anyone...plus and minus's of this unit? As stated before..good group here!!!!
 
   / 2006 duramax- 3500 #13  
I have an 02 and 06 duramax. If you get the 06 make sure its the LBZ not the LLY. Anyways both truck's are flawless. I did have to have a few injectors changed under warranty on my 02. My 02 has 132,000 and I tow the max with it which is close to 22,000 Single rear wheel. Before my chevy i was a ford guy and they always let me down. I had an 02 7.3 and 04 6.0 The 04 was in the shop 33 times, and I filed lemon law and ford gave me a check for 12,000 and told me to keep the truck. I sold it and went to chevy and never looked back.
 
   / 2006 duramax- 3500 #14  
Diamond Pilot-----what do you have for a fleet? BTW..want to sell one soon?:D

I have a 2004 F-250 PSD 4x4 3.73 gears, Extended Cab Short Bed. 120HP Quadzilla Chip, MAC Intake and Filter, 4" exhaust. Upgraded Reece Titan 15,000# 2.5" Hitch and 10,000# GVWR, 16,100# tow rating. 105,000 miles and never in the shop a day.

2006 F-350 SRW PSD 4x4 3.73 gears, Extended Cab Short Bed. 140HP Quadzilla Chip, MAC Intake and Filter, 4" exhaust. 2.5" 15,000# Ford Dually Hitch and 11,500# GVWR, 16,000# tow rating. (yes the F-250 will tow more on paper because its lighter by 100#). 90,000 miles and only in the shop once the first month for a faulty fuel gauge (replaced entire dash cluster).

2008 Nissan Titan 4x4 4.10 gears, 2" lift and 35" tires, Dana 33 spline axles and Detroit Lockers. Its a Extended Cab Short Bed also. Only add on is a K&N Air Filter. Standard 2" hitch and 6,500# GVWR and 9,500# towing capacity. 47,000 trouble free miles and never in the shop.

No, would not sell any of them right now.

All my truck work. I would guess the F-350 has 70,000 of its 90,000 miles towing loads 12,000# or more. The F-250 has about 60,000 of its 105,000 miles towing 10,000# to 16,000# loads. A few thousand towing 7,000# loads. The Titan has well over 25,000 of its 47,000 miles towing loads from 7,000# to 9,700#. Yes, I know its a little over but it does not know it.

Last poster is right about staying away from the LLY and getting a LBZ. I had a LLY and much like his Ford my Dmax was always in the shop. I sold it after 9 months and took a bath. GM did not treat me as well as Ford did him. Thats when I ordered the 06 F-350 I still have.

Chris
 
   / 2006 duramax- 3500 #15  
another thing to look out for on the 04-07's is the hub bearing assembly tends to go out on alot of these trucks(1/2 tons and 3/4 tons). When you replace one side you might as well go ahead and do the other at the same time because it won't be long before you're back in the shop.

What causes this I'm not sure but it never happened to my 04 Z71, however it happened twice on my friends 2004 Z71 and 3 times on my friends 2006 Duramax.
 
   / 2006 duramax- 3500 #16  
another thing to look out for on the 04-07's is the hub bearing assembly tends to go out on alot of these trucks(1/2 tons and 3/4 tons). When you replace one side you might as well go ahead and do the other at the same time because it won't be long before you're back in the shop.

What causes this I'm not sure but it never happened to my 04 Z71, however it happened twice on my friends 2004 Z71 and 3 times on my friends 2006 Duramax.

Yea, that is one of the problem areas I mentioned. My neighbors 07 has been fine so far with about 80,000 miles but I have a friend with a 06 and another with a 05 and they have replaced 3 on the 06 and 2 on the 05.

Not that bad. The part is about $175 per side but it can leave you stranded. Pretty easy to change for most shade tree mechanics or a $100 labor at your local shop. I have done 1 personally. Its the same part for the 01/07 classic 2500/3500. They made a change with the body style change in late 07/10. Time will tell if its better or not.

Chris
 
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   / 2006 duramax- 3500 #17  
I've had 3 Duramax's and they've all been great trucks with very few problems. The early (2001, 2002) versions had some injector problems and GM extended the warranty on them. Most have probably been replaced by now. Transmission cooler lines are an issue, mine (2008) leak a few drops when it's cold out.

The Allison is light years ahead of the trannys that Dodge and Ford put in their diesels, in terms of smoothness and reliability. I disagree with whoever said they can't handle additional power (in moderation). I know plenty of guys with 4-500 horsepower Dmaxs with the stock Allison. They've had very few, if any, problems. My local Chevy dealer tells me they can count on one hand the number of Allison failures they've seen over the last 10 years.

My 2008 with the DPF is now getting 20 on the highway and 17-18 around town, at 44,000 miles. That's almost as good as the pre-DPF Duramaxs I had.
 
   / 2006 duramax- 3500 #18  
I have a 2005 Silverado Duramax, longbed crew and will be replacing my front hubs/bearings at 54,000 miles....

I ordered these from WBI, American-made for $323.00 for a set. The Timken and even some SKFs are either Asian or Mexican made. Other than that, my LLY has been trouble free with the only mod being an AFI fresh air intake. Thinking about a 4" turbo-back pipe and will skip the tuner...

MIBearings LLC, Automotive Wheel Bearings
 
   / 2006 duramax- 3500 #20  
cooler lines have been an issue with allison for years
change the fuel filter every 15 k no matter what!
hubs can be an issue especially if it has larger tires than stock, buy them from a dealer once with a lifetime warranty and forget about it
allison- trans is a scaled down at540 out of a school bus, developed just for that truck, tough and easy to rebulid. took me longer to get them out of the truck than to build.
check all your seals and have a preofessional replace them with the right seal puller and installer. some are tripple lip and if not done right they wont last.
NO NO NO NO NO fuel additives ever !!!!! only thing you can add is stanadyne power junior or performance formula. anything else will corode the fuel system from the inside and at 260000 psi corosion tears stuff up.
truck was tested in -30 degree climate with no 2 diesel with no issues.
before you buy it have the fuel system inspected, make sure it will make max pressure, make sure your injectors are with in spec, and make sure no trans codes. most shops will charge you an hour or flate rate to do this.

but what do i know-15 years as gm diesel tech i still like 6.5"S lol
 

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