2008 3320 problems

[FXWG]

Good Morning, My son just picked up a 3008 3320 with 230 hours on it. it has a 300cx loader with a 72 inch belly mower and a 375 back hoe. He had to travel quite a ways to get it but considering the hours we thought it was worth it. He asked the salesman if it had been serviced and he replied that his guys checked it out and it needed nothing. Well, he got it home and and he tried to mow with it the mower would run and cut grass but the tractor would lose power to the wheels and slow down to almost a stop. We changed all the fluids, drained all of the fuel and changed the fuel filter along with air and hyd filters The hydro filter was clogged , the suction screen was clogged and the fuel water separator was full of water and the tank had extremely old fuel in it. So it has all new fluids in it. All new filters including both inner and outer air filters. New fluids, new fuel and a half a can of seafoam in the tank. Tractor has improved a little but nothing like it should. it still slows down when mowing and traveling up a steep grade. Any suggestions on what could be wrong? We are considering taking it back and asking for a refund at this point.

 

[arlen4720]

What range are you running in? C range is only good for transport on flat roads basically.

 

[FXWG]

We have tried it all three ranges. Makes no difference.

 

[dodge man]

Does it act like the engine is losing power or more like the transmission is losing power? Off the top of my head it still sounds like a fuel issue. Is the new fuel filter clogged? Might be algae growth in the tank clogging the outlet of the tank. The reason I say this is old fuel plus water can mean algae. Wild guess on my part.

That low an hour of a machine even though it sounds neglected should still be good. At the very least I would call the dealer and *****. It was not checked over. If you have pics of the filters and water in the fuel that would be good but you might not have thought of it.

 

[arlen4720]

Is it the engine that bogs down, or more like the ground speed just slows down and the engine keeps running at the set rpm?
If the latter is the case try shutting off loadmatch.

 

[dusty3030]

Sounds like load match feature kicking in. The E hydro will slow the tractor down to try and keep the RPMS up while under heavy load.

Also I'm curious what the hydro filter and suction screen were clogged with when you say clogged. That low hours the initial hydro fluid change I would expect maybe some fine metal shavings on the suction screen from break in, but nothing clogged. The fluid wasn't milky was it? The low vis Hyguard in that tractor should almost be clear / slightly straw colored.

 

[FXWG]

Thanks all for answering. The rpm's drop and as they go down so does the speed We are running the tractor now at 1800 rpm's with a can of Seafoam in the fuel trying to let it clean as it runs. It holds steady at 1800 rpms just sitting there running. Put a load on it and they drop. So made at this dealer he purchased it from. Does anybody recommend a different injector cleaner?

 

[FXWG]

Here is the Hydraulic filter.

 

[chevy]

That looks like algae. You You will need to add a algaecide for hydraulic oil. I would recommend also treating the fuel system also.

 

[dusty3030]

You don't think you got one that has been in a flood do you? Hydro fluid shouldn't look like that at all with that few of hours.

 

[chevy]

You don't think you got one that has been in a flood do you? Hydro fluid shouldn't look like that at all with that few of hours.

That may be the answer.

 

[FXWG]

No, I don't think it has been in a flood. No other signs of any water damage. No rust, no mud in hidden crevices, no water marks on anything.
I also wonder about the algae. I always thought algae needed sunlight to grow although I am taking all comments into consideration. What kind of algaecide do you put in the hydraulic fluid that would be compatible?.

 

[waycoolmarine]

did you check and make shure the brakes are fully releasing with low hours - low service they do tend to hang up with low hours and service crawl under with a hammer and good rust penetrating oil spray and tap work them back and forth and see if it makes a difference

 

[arlen4720]

did you check and make shure the brakes are fully releasing with low hours - low service they do tend to hang up with low hours and service crawl under with a hammer and good rust penetrating oil spray and tap work them back and forth and see if it makes a difference

He can put the transmission in neutral on a slight incline and make sure it rolls rolls freely to rule out brakes sticking.
Since the rpms are dropping I think the OP should be able to safely focus on fuel related problems like algae. Might take a more comprehensive fuel system flushing.

 

[RPW]

I would drop the fuel tank and do a thorough cleaning. I had a major problem this last winter with water in the fuel and finally gave up and dumped about 30 gallons. Put about half a gallon of acetone in the tank and let it sit for about 15 minutes to absorb the water and then pressurized the tank to finish cleaning it out. Also found an in line filter that I didn't know about and it was completely clogged.

 

[FXWG]

Thanks All for your reply's. I am really starting to think it is an injector problem. When we drained the fuel it was old but all of the water had collected in the separator. Have a Deere certified mechanic coming over to check injector pump pressure hopefully tonight or tomorrow. I will keep you all posted and thanks again.

 

[Wagtail]

No, I don't think it has been in a flood. No other signs of any water damage. No rust, no mud in hidden crevices, no water marks on anything.
I also wonder about the algae. I always thought algae needed sunlight to grow although I am taking all comments into consideration. What kind of algaecide do you put in the hydraulic fluid that would be compatible?.

You are correct, algae does need sunlight to grow... unfortunately many in the tractor/diesel community refer to a diesel biological growth as "algae". It's inaccurate, but there you go.

A biological growth in the diesel tank (plus fuel system/fuel bowl) feeds on a layer of water, which is on the bottom of the fuel tank as water is heavier. If you were to put an inspection camera down into the fuel tank (which I recommend that you do), a biological growth will look like fairy-floss (cotton candy) mixed with phlegm. You will need to dose the tank with a diesel biocide, which is readily available at any auto-parts shop/store.

Then you'll need to drain the entire tank and wipe out the dead biological growth using a 'grabber' (auto shop again) and many CHUX (J-Cloths). The dead biological growth will be stringy and brown.

I'd also wipe out the entire fuel bowl assembly. Only then would I add fresh diesel to the tank (+ this "seafoam" additive) and fire up the engine.

I have no idea what has contaminated your hydraulic filter.
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