2008 chev/gmc light duty truck changes

bialecki · Jun 25, 2007

On my 2004 F-150 I had to replace the front rotors after I was tired of having my teeth jar out of my head due to the warped rotors. I bought the replacement rotors from NAPA, $105 each for the front. I went with ceramic pads at $100 set. I had them on the truck for over a year and what an improvement. Ceramic pads still stop well and eliminates the dust on the wheels. Also try the tire Rack, The Tire Rack - Your performance experts for tires and wheels

jwm561 · Jun 28, 2007

I'm on my second Duramax. First one had 125k and all kinds of problems, injectors, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, etc. Just got a 3500 Sierra Classic 07 with the Duramax. I'm hoping the first was just a jinx. I love the engine and trans, nothing out there comes close. The brake problem is a factory fault that they refuse to recall because it would cost them $. The pads a designed to go 100k therefore the rotors warp because the pads are so **** hard. Ideally they both should be designed for 100k. As with the last truck, as soon as these warp, they will come off and drilled and slotted rotors with new ceramic pads will go on. With the last truck I had 60k on them and they were fine when I traded it in. The new truck is 5 months old with 10k miles on it already, just felt the first pulsing during braking today, won't be long before I swap the rotors. Fuel mileage is better on the new truck, consistently over 400 on 30 gal, even when towing, I'm sure it would get over 500 on highway. New Ford looks great, but I agree give it a year to get the bugs out, I know nothing about Dodge but several friends swear by them. To each their own I guess.

PA hayseed · Jul 29, 2007

My 05 silverado brakes went bad at 26,000 miles. My local chevy dealer was bought out by one over the mountain, so I took it to a local ford guy thinking that it wouldn't be that expensive. 269 dollars. Should have taken the day off work to take it over the mountain. The ford guy told me the chevys have bad brakes. When we looked at the originals, the pad would ride around the disc due to the grooving. He said they have two different types of brakes on the trucks, that they are heavy duty, but if they sit around will rust corrode quick. He said he has the same problem with some of the new fords on his lot.

He is an honest guy I believe him. He also mentioned what some others were saying, that if you have the hauling trailering package on the truck, you should be hauling more often, otherwise it will actually work against you when driving without.

As far as some comments go about trading in trucks every 2 years or so, I am guilty. I get the GM family plan, so I don't pay as much as others. Besides, things change and you need a different truck for different things. Used to own the little chevy z72 with the off road package, they were fun until I had a kid. Extended cab isn't big enough now. Will be upgrading to king cab next, and probably step up from a 1500 to 2500. The new 08 are so much nicer than the 05's. And everyone and their brother bought an 05 due to the big push that you could get employee prices. They were flying off the lots. The market should be packed with them in the next year or two.

workinallthetime · Jul 31, 2007

got a question for you guys with warped rotors, who does your tire rotations?
ive been working on d-max trucks since their inception in 01 and can not say i have ever had any trouble out of one of the 100's i worked on with a brake pulsation concern. I know about issues with the drum in hat design park brake but thats it.
The reason i ask about your tire rotations is that if you dont torque your wheels in the correct sequence to the correct torque then you will defiantly warp your rotors. I use a torque stick and have never had a problem, if you guys are doing it yourself then maybe you might think of adding one to your tool box. I cant count the times where i have seen a tire shop, wallmart, or a quick lube place warp a set of rotors.
just some fyi from a guy in the d-max trenches

bones1 · Jul 31, 2007

You're right.A lot of shops just use an impact gun till it stops.

8561 · Jul 31, 2007

Workin -

I have an '03 Z71 ECSB with 54,000 miles. I just replaced the rear rotors and pads, but my fronts look fine. The rotors were actually delaminating and coming apart. Any idea why the rears would be gone before the fronts, I've never seen a vehicle do that. By the way, it has the worst brake pedal feel of any vehicle I've ever driven. I've bled the lines, no air. The pedal is like stepping in mashed potatoes.

George2615 · Jul 31, 2007

I'll throw in my two cents. I had an 02 1/2T EC SB 4x4. Bought it new and had to replace rotors and pads at 20K. Only vehicle I've owned in 35 years that wore out brakes that fast. Mostly I get 70-80K before needing a brake job and that's with occassional towing a trailer with load. Just traded in an 05 Duramax 3/4T 4x4 EC SB at 29K miles and brakes looked like new. My dealer said a lot of late 04 - 05 1/2 T's wore out brakes early. Said it was poor quality of metal for rotors but would not cover any expenses. I was glad I could do my own and not have to pay a mechanic.

workinallthetime · Aug 1, 2007

i see a common demoniator with the last 2 post, bot of you guys are up north. I talked with the gm rep yesterday about this problem and he was telling me there are an entire different set of problems you guys deal with up there. i know there is a "rougher" pad made by gm to help with this concern but dont here we just dont see it to much in my area. He did make a comment about guys who tow heavy loads and dont use trailer brakes, said that this would cause almost an overheating condition of the rotors and cause them to warm.

good luck guys