2013 Tundra oil change interval

[thatguy]

If, and I say if, if you sleep ok at night with 10,000 miles oil changes, then, I say, by all means, stay at 10,000 mile oil changes.

THIS.. they only have to get you through 24k miles.. after that its all yours.. to me oil is cheaper if you plan on keeping the vehicle long term.

Personally I am using synthetic BUT I stick the the mfg max of 7500 miles intervals

Brian

 

[thatguy]

My 2006 tundra is every 7k with a sythetic blend. If you really want to be shocked our service intrivals for some of our semi trucks is 50K (DD15 engines)

BUT a semi holds ~11 gallons of oil vs 5 qts - thats a lot more 'holding' capacity

 

[Oaktree]

I have a 2011 Tundra with the service package but I change my own oil even though the dealer would do it for free. Me decision was based on the complex oil filter arrangement ant the numerous complaints of dealers screwing it up or overtorquing the canister and causing oil loss and engine problems. I want no part of that.

I have not owned a Toyota product in many years, and the chance of me ever doing so again is somewhere between slim and none but even for them this seems to be a quantum leap backwards. Spin-on oil filters have been around for how long? 50 years? They work, they're (usually) easy to change. Is there a reason for going with something like this other than to discourage DIY oil changing? Maybe other automakers do this too, but this is the first I've heard of it.

As far as oil change intervals go, I read somewhere once that the ever-increasing intervals were more marketing oneupmanship than anything else...if manufacturer A sets their interval at 5000 mi, manufacturer B will specify 6000 to give the impression their cars are lower maintenance. While I'm sure improved alloys and manufacturing tolerances can result in longer intervals, oil and filters are cheap enough that it's not going to break the bank. Didn't Toyota "fix" their oil sludging problem by shortening the recommended oil change intervals?

My original plugs are in my 2006 Nissan Frontier=140,000 miles.
No idea if they are Iridium or not.

Yikes! Lotsa luck getting them out of an aluminum head!

 

[aczlan]

I have not owned a Toyota product in many years, and the chance of me ever doing so again is somewhere between slim and none but even for them this seems to be a quantum leap backwards. Spin-on oil filters have been around for how long? 50 years? They work, they're (usually) easy to change. Is there a reason for going with something like this other than to discourage DIY oil changing? Maybe other automakers do this too, but this is the first I've heard of it.

The filter cartridge is cheaper to produce (no metal shell) and (theoretically, in the ones I have seen) lets you have a bigger filter area than the usual spin on filter.

Aaron Z

 

[sixdogs]

I think it's EPA fears. Toss out a canister filter and despite best efforts a lot of oil gets tossed with it. Toss out the new paper filter and it's light as a feather because the oil is missing. You could even burn the paper filter and no oil goes into the landfill. Just a thought.

 

[aczlan]

I think it's EPA fears. Toss out a canister filter and despite best efforts a lot of oil gets tossed with it. Toss out the new paper filter and it's light as a feather because the oil is missing. You could even burn the paper filter and no oil goes into the landfill. Just a thought.

You can burn a metal filter, then scrap the canister...

Aaron Z

 

[Heywood Jannockitov]

I think it's EPA fears. Toss out a canister filter and despite best efforts a lot of oil gets tossed with it. Toss out the new paper filter and it's light as a feather because the oil is missing. You could even burn the paper filter and no oil goes into the landfill. Just a thought.

The canister filter may have a little less residual oil left in it when disposing, but when I change the filter canister in my TDI, it is a pretty messy job when 2 o-rings have to be replaced, canister swapped out from the cap, oil suctioned out of the filter housing cavities on the engine that don't drain out completely. I end up with practically a half a roll of oily shop towels when done!

The spin-on in the Cummins is a big filter, but it is accessible from above, is upside-down so it holds all the oil when removed without spilling and I just let it drain in the drain pan for a day or two after removal to get as much oil out of it as possible before discarding.

 

[aczlan]

The canister filter may have a little less residual oil left in it when disposing, but when I change the filter canister in my TDI, it is a pretty messy job when 2 o-rings have to be replaced, canister swapped out from the cap, oil suctioned out of the filter housing cavities on the engine that don't drain out completely. I end up with practically a half a roll of oily shop towels when done!

Dad used one of those "topside oil change" devices for his TDI (2003 Jetta) and it worked well for oil changes (until the pump broke). No need to even drop the skid pan that way.

Aaron Z

 

[timswi]

Guy I work with has an Audi A6. Has to have the oil dealer changed as it's not a DIY apparently. Apx $200 every 10K..He can have it as far as I'm concerned.

 

[Heywood Jannockitov]

Dad used one of those "topside oil change" devices for his TDI (2003 Jetta) and it worked well for oil changes (until the pump broke). No need to even drop the skid pan that way.Aaron Z

Yeah, I have a MityVac, works great! Suctions the used oil out of the dipstick tube. Don't have to crawl under to remove the belly pan. The entire job is done from above, but I still can make a mess. The first time I got the MityVac I didn't realize how powerful the hand pump was. When I discharged the oil out of the MityVac, I just put the tube into an empty plastic oil jug. I pumped the handle a couple of times and the oil shot out of the tube like a fire hose. Of course it immediately blew out of the plastic jug and oil sprayed everywhere!

Guy I work with has an Audi A6. Has to have the oil dealer changed as it's not a DIY apparently. Apx $200 every 10K..He can have it as far as I'm concerned.

That sounds about right. I'd do my own on the S5 but it is still under warranty. They are easy DIY jobs with the right tools. About the same procedure as doing a TDI oil change. Some of the Euro-spec oil is pretty expensive though. I have to use spec 505-01 5w40 full synthetic in the Pumpe-Duse TDI Passat, which is about $50.00 for a 5 litre jug. The engine oil capacity is only 3.8 litres though. I get all my MANN filters online.

I wonder what oil is spec'ed for these new turbo direct-injection gassers, like the eco-pooched? I bet you ain't looking at $30.00 dollar oil changes with these new technology gas engines either.

A friend of mine just had to have the engine replaced in his Tundra because a lube shop didn't install the oil filter properly and the oil drained out while he was driving it.