2020 diesel sounds funny
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Oh, I just replaced that pump drive. I had to replace the radiator last month and all those parts are all new, but I'll take a look at it. I did torque it properly.
Are the injectors serviceable at all?
But I will check the exhaust cylinders temp from cold, I'll do the water test along with the infrared thermo I have. Then maybe dig into the top and adjust the valve clearance if they need it. And check the injector pump timing, change the filter. Those will be pretty simple things to do, I hope.
I notice now too, the engine is not coming up to temp. After the radiator I noticed the old temp meter was erratic so I got a new one, but am not sure about it. it's the same as the old one, Amazon.com: Equus 6242 2" Mechanical Water Temperature Gauge, Black: Automotive might need a new thermo.
Are the injectors serviceable at all?
But I will check the exhaust cylinders temp from cold, I'll do the water test along with the infrared thermo I have. Then maybe dig into the top and adjust the valve clearance if they need it. And check the injector pump timing, change the filter. Those will be pretty simple things to do, I hope.
I notice now too, the engine is not coming up to temp. After the radiator I noticed the old temp meter was erratic so I got a new one, but am not sure about it. it's the same as the old one, Amazon.com: Equus 6242 2" Mechanical Water Temperature Gauge, Black: Automotive might need a new thermo.
Well, the rear and front cylinders are definitely cooler than the middle ones. I got the middle ones up to maybe 210F while the rear one was still at 130-140, the front one was more like 180. That's maybe 20 minutes at 10Krpm. That's on the manifold right in front of the flange. There's a bolt right in front of the exhaust port on the engine and they register cooler, but a similar difference. So I think there's a bit of a problem with ignition.
I also put a piece of cardboard on the radiator and I still couldn't get the top part of the radiator warmer than maybe 110F. Reckon it's time for a new thermo too. That's not enough to even register on the meter. It was working before.
I'd still like to know if the injectors can be cleaned.
I also put a piece of cardboard on the radiator and I still couldn't get the top part of the radiator warmer than maybe 110F. Reckon it's time for a new thermo too. That's not enough to even register on the meter. It was working before.
I'd still like to know if the injectors can be cleaned.
super55
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- Oliver Super55, John Deere 4310, John Deere 4400, Kubota L2500 (had),
The JD 2020 uses a pencil injector that is very common and pretty **** cheap. Steiners has them for 36 bucks each. I don't see any rebuild kits for these but typically you can rebuild mechanical injectors. Can definitely usually replace nozzles easily enough but if you go deeper then you need a pressure tester for the spring because you usually have to shim the spring or have an adjustment of some sort to set the correct release pressure.
I would say just buy new. BTW steiners is a great place to buy parts. Their staff is extremely knowledgeable on old iron.
I would say just buy new. BTW steiners is a great place to buy parts. Their staff is extremely knowledgeable on old iron.
super55
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- Joined
- Jan 27, 2012
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- 960
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- Great North of Michigan
- Tractor
- Oliver Super55, John Deere 4310, John Deere 4400, Kubota L2500 (had),
Go to the John Deere parts catalog https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/ and look up your model. Looks like you also need a seal and possibly a washer. I have no idea if they are crush washers but with the compression they deal with it wouldn't surprise me so I would probably replace them as well. Once you find the part number for the correct ser. # of your engine do a search on the internet of the JD part #. You should get a bunch of suppliers offering the part. I have had really good service getting my parts through GreenPartStore.
Tx Jim
New Member
New injectors did not come with new seals. I had bought some anyhow, so I'm ready. I was thinking that the compression nut for that seal would necessitate taking apart the injector at the top go put it on, but no, once the seal is out of the nut, both the seal and nut just slide over that 'nut' at the top of the injector. I have the old injectors out, it took me about 2 hours, not bad. I was worried about how to pull them out, I kept messing around and they don't just pull out easily. Finally I found an old claw type nail extractor, not the flat type the roofers use, they're too big, the kind you drive under a nail head with a hammer and it fit perfectly under that loose bracket on the injector and the nut by the side of the injector on the engine and it just levered them right up. So tomorrow I'll clean up all the parts, make sure all the old pipe nuts fit fine on the new injectors without binding and hopefully things will go back together easier than it came apart. The old injectors are certainly carboned up on the ends.
I may call a local guy that works on cars and tractors to see if he can test the injectors. Otherwise I'm just going to try them, it's easy enough to get them out. I can't believe this isn't going to help.
What I'd like to know is why this injector works for a million different engines. How does that work? You'd think each injector would have to be calibrated for the engine/displacement size. Or is it more a function of the injector pump?
Then maybe I should consider taking the valve cover off and checking the valve lash.
I may call a local guy that works on cars and tractors to see if he can test the injectors. Otherwise I'm just going to try them, it's easy enough to get them out. I can't believe this isn't going to help.
What I'd like to know is why this injector works for a million different engines. How does that work? You'd think each injector would have to be calibrated for the engine/displacement size. Or is it more a function of the injector pump?
Then maybe I should consider taking the valve cover off and checking the valve lash.
Anything is possible, but let's see what happens with new injectors. As I said before a couple of the cylinders were definitely running cooler than the others, and the injectors are sure fouled up. We'll see. If there were a bent push rod or bad arm, what would cause that right away? It certainly feels like something that's happened over time, it didn't just happen all of a sudden and there was no apparent loss of power. Sorry, that sounds a little extreme as a quick diagnosis.